Car Enthusiast Club [Now Motorcycle friendly!] - First thread to 150k! ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

[Bitter]

13 minutes ago, vetali said:

I've never heard of that. They were OEM, were only 30 dollars more than aftermarket.

We hadn't either before I read the paper that came with some of them a number of years ago. I always read everything that comes with parts because that's just how I am. I don't care if I've put on 100 power steering pumps, maybe they've changed something and it only takes me a minute to scan through the stuff that comes with them. We haven't had a single converter come back under warranty since we started doing this break in like a lot of years ago, prior we'd be getting several a year come back for either rattling or inefficiency codes. Probably not a thing with OEM's though.

[Bitter]

Just now, sub68 said:

I was going home from the store and this was on the road.

 

Pokemon livery on a mustang.

I live in a college town that gets a lot of foreign students so this is not uncommon.

(I have seen hypercars, exotics and everything in between)

Fail, not a Mach-e with Pikachu.

[sub68]

1 minute ago, Bitter said:

Fail, not a Mach-e with Pikachu.

Fair.

Sry I haven't posted in awhile I just feel like I get shoted down every time

[sub68]

I have forgotten that this was my phone wallpaper.

It's actually a GT class car that does ok.(I can't find races cause japan)

The driver is also a D1 drifter for HKS.

[vetali]

16 minutes ago, Bitter said:

We hadn't either before I read the paper that came with some of them a number of years ago. I always read everything that comes with parts because that's just how I am. I don't care if I've put on 100 power steering pumps, maybe they've changed something and it only takes me a minute to scan through the stuff that comes with them. We haven't had a single converter come back under warranty since we started doing this break in like a lot of years ago, prior we'd be getting several a year come back for either rattling or inefficiency codes. Probably not a thing with OEM's though.

I hardly ever. Though I did rollers on a newer odyssey and the new part came with a pcb and instructions.... pretty rare for oem stuff from honda... so I read it and the stainless steel rollers require replacing the power sliding door module for each motor otherwise it will cause issues with it stopping due to improper feedback from the hall effect sensor in the motor. So you can't flat rate it by just pulling on the cables... gotta pull the panel off to do the modules, so may as well de-tension the cables.

[Bitter]

4 minutes ago, vetali said:

I hardly ever. Though I did rollers on a newer odyssey and the new part came with a pcb and instructions.... pretty rare for oem stuff from honda... so I read it and the stainless steel rollers require replacing the power sliding door module for each motor otherwise it will cause issues with it stopping due to improper feedback from the hall effect sensor in the motor. So you can't flat rate it by just pulling on the cables... gotta pull the panel off to do the modules, so may as well de-tension the cables.

Well yeah, OEM parts normally don't so you hardly ever have to. Aftermarket boy howdy sometimes I think 1/2 the price is the paper in the box! And don't even get me started on some of the custom aftermarket stuff and their direction sheets. Someone brought in a serp belt conversion kit for their Olds 350 and it's a real rube goldberg affair and pretty sure it won't work on this engine with the balancer it has on it. I gotta call the support line monday once I get the block number off it and figure out which year this engine is. Looks like it's for later model Olds 350's than his maybe.

[vetali]

4 minutes ago, Bitter said:

Well yeah, OEM parts normally don't so you hardly ever have to. Aftermarket boy howdy sometimes I think 1/2 the price is the paper in the box! And don't even get me started on some of the custom aftermarket stuff and their direction sheets. Someone brought in a serp belt conversion kit for their Olds 350 and it's a real rube goldberg affair and pretty sure it won't work on this engine with the balancer it has on it. I gotta call the support line monday once I get the block number off it and figure out which year this engine is. Looks like it's for later model Olds 350's than his maybe.

Yeah I don't miss that stuff at all lol. I can follow instructions pretty well, but those aftermarket kits have the worst instructions ever. Some of the worst honda ones are the accessory ATF cooler on the passports. They assume that its like the pilot, when its a completely different lower grille design. I've only done one when the passport first came out and I told myself I would just pull the bumper next time rather than go through the grille like they wanted.

 

The ZF9 speed ATF coolers are a nightmare. Seen that job bring normally calm people to throwing tool shitfits and cussing. Very very hard job.

[Bitter]

4 minutes ago, vetali said:

Yeah I don't miss that stuff at all lol. I can follow instructions pretty well, but those aftermarket kits have the worst instructions ever. Some of the worst honda ones are the accessory ATF cooler on the passports. They assume that its like the pilot, when its a completely different lower grille design. I've only done one when the passport first came out and I told myself I would just pull the bumper next time rather than go through the grille like they wanted.

 

The ZF9 speed ATF coolers are a nightmare. Seen that job bring normally calm people to throwing tool shitfits and cussing. Very very hard job.

Lucky me, Honda's never ever break down so I never ever need to work on them! Or maybe Honda isn't the vehicle of choice over here in the hood? I either see them super old low miles one owner goes to grocery store once a week and they come in for their 1000 mile once a year oil change or I see them like new new in for a 30k CVT trans fluid change and new tires.

 

I can't recall the last thing that pissed me off that bad, I keep a pretty cool head most of the time and just roll with it. I know when to go walk away and work on something else for a minute or take a lap around the shop and come back at it. What normally pisses me off is when parts aren't made right like they cut the wrong thread pitch into something or the hole is misaligned/crooked.

[vetali]

2 minutes ago, Bitter said:

Lucky me, Honda's never ever break down so I never ever need to work on them! Or maybe Honda isn't the vehicle of choice over here in the hood? I either see them super old low miles one owner goes to grocery store once a week and they come in for their 1000 mile once a year oil change or I see them like new new in for a 30k CVT trans fluid change and new tires.

 

I can't recall the last thing that pissed me off that bad, I keep a pretty cool head most of the time and just roll with it. I know when to go walk away and work on something else for a minute or take a lap around the shop and come back at it. What normally pisses me off is when parts aren't made right like they cut the wrong thread pitch into something or the hole is misaligned/crooked.

You are lucky then because I see tons of broken hondas lol. I am getting my ass kicked on an older odyssey with tons of bcan issues... I think I narrowed it down to a rear junction block + wiper switch. Unfortunately I called the junction block before the wiper switch, but it had obvious water damage and was no com. Was hoping it would fix the no blinkers/wipers issue but nope.... can't ohm out the wiper switch because its a module and the light switch piggy backs into the wiper switch. So I have one coming tomorrow and gonna try it before I call a MICU, which I doubt is really the issue because I can communicate with it and theres no water damage, which usually is what kills MICUs.

 

The guy that bought my old civic traded in his like 2000s hatchback with 20k miles. My civic had 13k and was a 19 lol.

 

We struggle with aftermarket stuff too. Honda has an indefinite backorder on K24 spool valves. We have been going aftermarket and having lots of issues.

[arnavvr]

5 minutes ago, Benji said:

The Audi RS6 also had V8s that could be revved over 8000rpm IIRC.

BMW E60 M5s had V10s that Redlined at 8250 rpm. The S65 in the M3 will redline at 8400rpm.

[arnavvr]

5 minutes ago, Benji said:

V10s are not unusual over 8000rpm, which is sort of why they "scream". They all rev rather high, don't they?

Maybe European Ones do, American ones certainly do not lol.

 

 

[iDeFecZx]

8 hours ago, arnavvr said:

Maybe European Ones do, American ones certainly do not lol.

 

 

I mean by no means do they rev high, but the last gens redlined at 6500. Which is pretty high for an 8+ litre engine

[vetali]

Another day, another set of injectors.

[Bitter]

19 minutes ago, vetali said:

Another day, another set of injectors.

It's got an O2 sensor PER cylinder or what? Also isn't that DI? Where are the injectors?

[vetali]

16 minutes ago, Bitter said:

It's got an O2 sensor PER cylinder or what? Also isn't that DI? Where are the injectors?

The test leans out one injector at a time and watches the AF sensor to test for a rich/lean condition. Injectors go right below the landing in the head for the intake pedestal that holds the intake manifold. I have the front bank ready to go in that picture, Its propped up by the rail because the high pressure fuel sensor connector is an absolute pain to disconnect.

 

I do have a question though. I have this 04 odyssey collecting dust in the shop. Basically it sat for a few years and the brakes were spongy till you pumped them a bunch. I called a master cylinder at first, but left it open to a ABS modulator because it was discontinued through honda and master cylinders are cheap. Didn't fix it. So we try a junkyard modulator, I install it and bleed it and its better, but still pretty spongy. I look at the modulator and its just dripping with brake fluid from the fittings. It appears the modulators are a one time use due to the aluminum casting deforming to the brake line flare. We're pretty much screwed now. I have no idea if I can reshape the flare in the modulator or what. I rarely do modulators at the shop.

[Bitter]

31 minutes ago, vetali said:

The test leans out one injector at a time and watches the AF sensor to test for a rich/lean condition. Injectors go right below the landing in the head for the intake pedestal that holds the intake manifold. I have the front bank ready to go in that picture, Its propped up by the rail because the high pressure fuel sensor connector is an absolute pain to disconnect.

 

I do have a question though. I have this 04 odyssey collecting dust in the shop. Basically it sat for a few years and the brakes were spongy till you pumped them a bunch. I called a master cylinder at first, but left it open to a ABS modulator because it was discontinued through honda and master cylinders are cheap. Didn't fix it. So we try a junkyard modulator, I install it and bleed it and its better, but still pretty spongy. I look at the modulator and its just dripping with brake fluid from the fittings. It appears the modulators are a one time use due to the aluminum casting deforming to the brake line flare. We're pretty much screwed now. I have no idea if I can reshape the flare in the modulator or what. I rarely do modulators at the shop.

Interesting!

 

Hmm. One time use doesn't sound right, we've ran a bunch of brake lines on Hondas to the ABS pumps before. Did someone use the wrong flare type? Bubble vs double?

[vetali]

14 minutes ago, Bitter said:

Interesting!

 

Hmm. One time use doesn't sound right, we've ran a bunch of brake lines on Hondas to the ABS pumps before. Did someone use the wrong flare type? Bubble vs double?

Nah it looks all original. I have 3 modulators and all have completely galled up flares on the modulator side. I have never heard of it either, but I just think the aluminum is too soft.

[bcredeur97]

13 minutes ago, vetali said:

Nah it looks all original. I have 3 modulators and all have completely galled up flares on the modulator side. I have never heard of it either, but I just think the aluminum is too soft.

do a bypass and just not have ABS? Though im not sure that's something you would be allowed to do

 

weld new tubes to the thing and flare those? Lol

[Bitter]

6 minutes ago, vetali said:

Nah it looks all original. I have 3 modulators and all have completely galled up flares on the modulator side. I have never heard of it either, but I just think the aluminum is too soft.

I'd be interested to see some pictures of that. Sounds more like someone didn't know what they were doing taking apart or putting together (no offense if it was you!).

I assume you went through the brake hardware on the car as well to make sure it wasn't bound pads or bound slides? Those can make things feel squishy like a bad master sometimes because you're flexing the brakes but not apply the brakes.

 

I really am perplexed about the flare fittings, I'd taken apart a lot of flares from aluminum and the once or twice I've had leaks after were because the bleeder seat was damaged but it was corroded or someone shoved the wrong flare in a caliper.

[vetali]

Just now, bcredeur97 said:

do a bypass and just not have ABS? Though im not sure that's something you would be allowed to do

 

weld new tubes to the thing and flare those? Lol

Not at all lol. I should add this thing is leaking fluid without boost applied. I should've got pictures of the flares.... its nasty. I am stumped. This car might be going to the bone yard if I can't figure it out.

 

1 minute ago, Bitter said:

I'd be interested to see some pictures of that. Sounds more like someone didn't know what they were doing taking apart or putting together (no offense if it was you!).

I assume you went through the brake hardware on the car as well to make sure it wasn't bound pads or bound slides? Those can make things feel squishy like a bad master sometimes because you're flexing the brakes but not apply the brakes.

 

I really am perplexed about the flare fittings, I'd taken apart a lot of flares from aluminum and the once or twice I've had leaks after were because the bleeder seat was damaged but it was corroded or someone shoved the wrong flare in a caliper.

So the first one was from a wrecking yard that removed the lines and plugged them. The newest one they cut the lines and I just zapped the fittings off. The original obviously I removed with line wrenches. All have the same issue. I also noticed a lot of corrosion on the 2nd junkyard fittings way down where the flare is. Maybe I'll run into work tomorrow and snap some pictures. I feel bad for my advisor, this customer is a tough one and he knows if I am struggling on this then its really messed up.

 

Everything releases and applies fine, its a pressure issue. Only time I messed with a modulator was on a CRV, that was no issue.

[Bitter]

9 minutes ago, vetali said:

Not at all lol. I should add this thing is leaking fluid without boost applied. I should've got pictures of the flares.... its nasty. I am stumped. This car might be going to the bone yard if I can't figure it out.

 

So the first one was from a wrecking yard that removed the lines and plugged them. The newest one they cut the lines and I just zapped the fittings off. The original obviously I removed with line wrenches. All have the same issue. I also noticed a lot of corrosion on the 2nd junkyard fittings way down where the flare is. Maybe I'll run into work tomorrow and snap some pictures. I feel bad for my advisor, this customer is a tough one and he knows if I am struggling on this then its really messed up.

 

Everything releases and applies fine, its a pressure issue. Only time I messed with a modulator was on a CRV, that was no issue.

Do you have an inductor heater? I've had to use those or a torch to heat the steel fitting, then cool it, that helps it to release from the aluminum with out spinning the line on the flare seat. You don't want the line to spin with the nut, just the nut. Even if it's cut and you don't care about the line, spinning that flare sure could be causing problems. Might need to hold the line with vice grips and turn the fitting with a wrench when taking apart.

[vetali]

3 minutes ago, Bitter said:

Do you have an inductor heater? I've had to use those or a torch to heat the steel fitting, then cool it, that helps it to release from the aluminum with out spinning the line on the flare seat. You don't want the line to spin with the nut, just the nut. Even if it's cut and you don't care about the line, spinning that flare sure could be causing problems. Might need to hold the line with vice grips and turn the fitting with a wrench when taking apart.

Yeah I wondered that, but the original has the same issue.

 

https://www.tomsforeign.com/abs-pump-honda-odyssey-99-00-01-02-03-04-580801/

 

Theres a pic of one, you can kinda see the galling on that picture as well.

[Bitter]

5 minutes ago, vetali said:

Yeah I wondered that, but the original has the same issue.

 

https://www.tomsforeign.com/abs-pump-honda-odyssey-99-00-01-02-03-04-580801/

 

Theres a pic of one, you can kinda see the galling on that picture as well.

You mean the corrosion around the ports? Par for the course, I've worked on worse on GM's with the ABS pumps slung on the frame rails underneath. Maybe try making some short line sections from cupro-nickel line and then flare union into the original lines. The softer line might conform and seal to the slightly damaged seats? They don't look that bad in that photo to be honest, do you mean that little circle that looks slightly embossed to the aluminum cone in the centers of some of them?

[vetali]

2 minutes ago, Bitter said:

You mean the corrosion around the ports? Par for the course, I've worked on worse on GM's with the ABS pumps slung on the frame rails underneath. Maybe try making some short line sections from cupro-nickel line and then flare union into the original lines. The softer line might conform and seal to the slightly damaged seats? They don't look that bad in that photo to be honest, do you mean that little circle that looks slightly embossed to the aluminum cone in the centers of some of them?

Yeah I will get a picture. On the modulators I have look like the lines were literally stamped in them.

[Bitter]

2 minutes ago, vetali said:

Yeah I will get a picture. On the modulators I have look like the lines were literally stamped in them.

I can't say I've had a problem where a line wouldn't seat on one that looks like that but I'm usually making new lines so the flare I'm putting in maybe is a bit different? I use this to make almost all my flares.

https://www.amazon.com/Titan-Tools-51535-Double-Flaring/dp/B06XPRVCPV/

It DOES make a roughly bubble flare if you just don't invert the first step, it's not 100% correct but it seals just fine.

 

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01DO912G4/

this cutter is pretty nice, just tighten it once maybe twice during the cut, there's one from Titan on the flare tool page that looks cool too. As you can tell, I do a lot of brake lines. I got to run some fresh ones on a 2000 Corolla Monday along with front brakes. Get to run rear lines from the prop valve all the way back probably. There's really no where accessible that's clean where I can patch in with a flare union and I don't believe in using compressions on brake lines. I'm a union guy lol.