3900X heating up to 95 C in stress test,normal?

[frozensun]

2 minutes ago, tishous said:

You could try manually setting the voltage using Ryzen Master. 1.4V+ is very high which is probably why you're seeing these temperatures. It does depend on your motherboard whether you can or not so download it and if it works great, but if not then you could try setting a voltage offset in the BIOS instead of locked 1.3V.

How do I set voltage offset?

According to AMD for this CPU every temp below 1.5 V is safe..I can find you thread about that.

[Applefreak]

Just now, frozensun said:

Hmm isn't the DOCP only for memory OC?DOCP is same as XMP on Intel.

My PBO is enabled.

Pump is running in balanced mode since in Extreme mode (fans) are very loud.

You want to control the fans separately and have the pump at full speed to compensate for power spikes. DOCP is Dynamic Overclocking, it's a motherboard thing, nothing to do with AMD and the processor, or at least directly. PBO is what you want enabled to boost the cpu by default. With DOCP enabled, the motherboard will try to raise clocks and voltages, sometimes increasing temps by 20C or more.

[frozensun]

1 minute ago, Applefreak said:

You want to control the fans separately and have the pump at full speed to compensate for power spikes. DOCP is Dynamic Overclocking, it's a motherboard thing, nothing to do with AMD and the processor, or at least directly. PBO is what you want enabled to boost the cpu by default. With DOCP enabled, the motherboard will try to raise clocks and voltages, sometimes increasing temps by 20C or more.

Now you got me confused.

DOCP does it overclock RAM or CPU?

If RAM why do I need to disable it?

[Applefreak]

3 minutes ago, frozensun said:

Now you got me confused.

DOCP does it overclock RAM or CPU?

If RAM why do I need to disable it?

Depends on the motherboard, sometimes both. I'd recommend to use XMP (called A-XMP on AMD) alone. DOCP tends to mess with voltages to max memory speed and on some boards tries to overclock the cpu as well.

[tishous]

2 minutes ago, frozensun said:

How do I set voltage offset?

According to AMD for this CPU every temp below 1.5 V is safe..I can find you thread about that.

I'm pretty sure AMD recommend below 1.4V for everyday use.

 

Anyway, to set a voltage, in the BIOS, go to your CPU overclocking section and there should be voltage control. This can be called CPU VCore or just CPU Core voltage. You should be able to click that and have 3 options: manual, auto, offset. You'll want to choose offset and there should be a box under it where you type your desired offset. I would recommend doing -0.1 or so to start off with. See if it's stable and your voltages when stress testing, and reduce more if the temps are still too high.

10 minutes ago, Applefreak said:

You want to control the fans separately and have the pump at full speed to compensate for power spikes. DOCP is Dynamic Overclocking, it's a motherboard thing, nothing to do with AMD and the processor, or at least directly. PBO is what you want enabled to boost the cpu by default. With DOCP enabled, the motherboard will try to raise clocks and voltages, sometimes increasing temps by 20C or more.

No... DOCP just sets the RAM to its rated speeds. It can increase RAM voltages if it needs, but it doesn't affect the CPU.

[frozensun]

2 minutes ago, tishous said:

I'm pretty sure AMD recommend below 1.4V for everyday use.

 

Anyway, to set a voltage, in the BIOS, go to your CPU overclocking section and there should be voltage control. This can be called CPU VCore or just CPU Core voltage. You should be able to click that and have 3 options: manual, auto, offset. You'll want to choose offset and there should be a box under it where you type your desired offset. I would recommend doing -0.1 or so to start off with. See if it's stable and your voltages when stress testing, and reduce more if the temps are still too high.

No... DOCP just sets the RAM to its rated speeds. It can increase RAM voltages if it needs, but it doesn't affect the CPU.

Hmmm but I already set it to Manual and input 1.3 V for CPU Voltage and saved settings.

But I see spikes to 1.47 V on some cores in HWInfo depending on load.

[tishous]

Just now, frozensun said:

Hmmm but I already set it to Manual and input 1.3 V for CPU Voltage and saved settings.

But I see spikes to 1.47 V on some cores in HWInfo depending on load.

Those softwares can sometimes be inaccurate. Even at stock settings it shouldn't be hitting 1.47V. 

[frozensun]

1 minute ago, tishous said:

Those softwares can sometimes be inaccurate. Even at stock settings it shouldn't be hitting 1.47V. 

Hmm wait,tell me where should I read and tell you current voltage of my CPU,directly from BIOS?

[tishous]

1 minute ago, frozensun said:

Hmm wait,tell me where should I read and tell you current voltage of my CPU,directly from BIOS?

I mean that's one way, but you can't see what voltage it would hit when stress testing. Ryzen Master, if it's compatible, is a good way to check on your clocks and voltages.

[frozensun]

26 minutes ago, tishous said:

I mean that's one way, but you can't see what voltage it would hit when stress testing. Ryzen Master, if it's compatible, is a good way to check on your clocks and voltages.

here is what I did...

is this okay or I should go with option of an offset like u told me.

so even with these settings although cpu-z reports fixed 1.3V,I see in HWinfo that some cores if not all get increase to 1.476 V depending on load.

So can you tell me why that happens if I set/locked the CPU voltage to 1.3V?

Below with R.Master while doing 720p encoding.

[TVwazhere]

-threads merged-

 

Please refrain from posting duplicate topics about the same subject.

[tishous]

@frozensunLike I said, software reporting on your system information can sometimes be inaccurate. I would say that 76W of power shouldn't make your CPU hit 76C with pretty much any 120mm AIO, let alone a 240mm one. You could check the mounting pressure or the thermal paste application.

[frozensun]

8 minutes ago, tishous said:

@frozensunLike I said, software reporting on your system information can sometimes be inaccurate. I would say that 76W of power shouldn't make your CPU hit 76C with pretty much any 120mm AIO, let alone a 240mm one. You could check the mounting pressure or the thermal paste application.

ooh.okay..I'll check them tomorrow.

How much should I tighten those 2 screws to the plastic clips?

Just use with fingers or tighten them up with screwdriver?

[tishous]

Just now, frozensun said:

ooh.okay..I'll check them tomorrow.

How much should I tighten those 2 screws to the plastic clips?

Just use with fingers or tighten them up with screwdriver?

As tight as you can with your fingers. You could give a tiny twist with a screwdriver just in case, but just be careful.

[Guest]

12 hours ago, frozensun said:

Oh okay.

But is it normal that my 3900X reaches 94 C in a minute in Prime95 with small/smallest FFT?

If that is not normal then something with cooling is not okay.

I wrote on other forum that,and guys told me that's not normal in such small period that CPu reaches 95 C,and I quote :"looks like pump is not working okay,maybe I should replace thermal paste,and reseat cooler".

I checked the pump and I don't see anything loose on it.

So what should I do?

I have spare MX-4 paste which I can apply after cleaning the old paste.

But what if it's not the paste issue?

What if it's smething with a pump or MoBo.

Maybe I need to flash the latest BIOS who knows, it can be anything...

Looks like the topics where merged + the black out this morning... I missed you quoting me. But I've seen it now!! We can carry on.

 

___

 

The temps high like that in a small period of time is actually normal and not normal at the same time. There are variables at play.

 

So first off, the end cooling solution to ambient cooling is the atmosphere. 

This controls your water delta because you dissipate to the air. 

---

Breaking down an H100i Platinum.

 

Radiator is Aluminum. Not a great difference for dissipation, but the absorption rate of aluminum is slower than copper. 

In short, it takes a longer time for the water delta (delta = temp) to absorb to the radiator when they are aluminum.

-

Waterblock - well, no it's a pump.... or let's say both at the same time.

You have a cold plate. The rest of the pump/waterblock is an insulator.

In fact the pump probably dumps some heat to the water as well.

Cpu = hot = pump is hot too.

 

Then - The cold plate. It's small. Thin. And not a great deal of surface area. Sure those tiny fins do create some surface area, but where the water touches is the ONLY place that thermals are dissipated to the liquid. The rest of that plate will contain x amount of BTU therms before transferred to the water. This helps to create a temp gradient. 

 

This plate is not large enough in mass to have a larger temp gradient. You can't even put a fan on the waterblock to assist temps because it's not a waterblock. It's a cold plate with a water pump screwed onto it.

 

That's less copper mass cooling your chip than most top end air coolers of similar or lesser pricing of the H100I platinum. 

It's not a "high performance" cooler like they advertise. 

 

If you have more radiator, you could lower temps by having the lowest possible water delta enter the water block..... Or in reality, just run over a plate, and you'd have lower temps. 

 

My guess is that the radiator is not dissipating BTU quickly enough and it's cycling the heat through the loop. Some of it's dissipated, and some of it returns to the Cpu. 

 

Now you would compare this little plate to a full copper water block.

A full cooper block, you can actually remove thermal BTU with putting a fan right on the waterblock.

With AIO water blocks... err cold plates, you could try that, but the plate is insulated. So it would do nothing or very little to put a fan on the water block/pump/plate... w/e you want to call the AIO block. To me, it's a plate.

 

And for reference, my cold plate I use for TEC cooling is probably about 50% larger that the cold plate of this H100i waterblock/plate.

 

 

Transfer of therms isn't easy. But most 200w ++ chips aren't exactly easy to cool. 

I would full expect to see throttle temps with 3900X and H100i even if I tried this on my open bench. 

 

Here's what a full copper water block looks like.

This block to me is worth more than your entire H100i loop. Not in price but in cooling capacity and capability.

 

[frozensun]

7 hours ago, ShrimpBrime said:

Looks like the topics where merged + the black out this morning... I missed you quoting me. But I've seen it now!! We can carry on.

 

___

 

The temps high like that in a small period of time is actually normal and not normal at the same time. There are variables at play.

 

So first off, the end cooling solution to ambient cooling is the atmosphere. 

This controls your water delta because you dissipate to the air. 

---

Breaking down an H100i Platinum.

 

Radiator is Aluminum. Not a great difference for dissipation, but the absorption rate of aluminum is slower than copper. 

In short, it takes a longer time for the water delta (delta = temp) to absorb to the radiator when they are aluminum.

-

Waterblock - well, no it's a pump.... or let's say both at the same time.

You have a cold plate. The rest of the pump/waterblock is an insulator.

In fact the pump probably dumps some heat to the water as well.

Cpu = hot = pump is hot too.

 

Then - The cold plate. It's small. Thin. And not a great deal of surface area. Sure those tiny fins do create some surface area, but where the water touches is the ONLY place that thermals are dissipated to the liquid. The rest of that plate will contain x amount of BTU therms before transferred to the water. This helps to create a temp gradient. 

 

This plate is not large enough in mass to have a larger temp gradient. You can't even put a fan on the waterblock to assist temps because it's not a waterblock. It's a cold plate with a water pump screwed onto it.

 

That's less copper mass cooling your chip than most top end air coolers of similar or lesser pricing of the H100I platinum. 

It's not a "high performance" cooler like they advertise. 

 

If you have more radiator, you could lower temps by having the lowest possible water delta enter the water block..... Or in reality, just run over a plate, and you'd have lower temps. 

 

My guess is that the radiator is not dissipating BTU quickly enough and it's cycling the heat through the loop. Some of it's dissipated, and some of it returns to the Cpu. 

 

Now you would compare this little plate to a full copper water block.

A full cooper block, you can actually remove thermal BTU with putting a fan right on the waterblock.

With AIO water blocks... err cold plates, you could try that, but the plate is insulated. So it would do nothing or very little to put a fan on the water block/pump/plate... w/e you want to call the AIO block. To me, it's a plate.

 

And for reference, my cold plate I use for TEC cooling is probably about 50% larger that the cold plate of this H100i waterblock/plate.

 

 

Transfer of therms isn't easy. But most 200w ++ chips aren't exactly easy to cool. 

I would full expect to see throttle temps with 3900X and H100i even if I tried this on my open bench. 

 

Here's what a full copper water block looks like.

This block to me is worth more than your entire H100i loop. Not in price but in cooling capacity and capability.

 

My god such an educative post from you.

i've learned so much.Thank you.

So after all I'm confused,do I need to replace paste,is this normal issue or not?

Does h100i work like it's intend to?

Would it help to flash with latest BIOS?

[frozensun]

In case I want to remove current paste and repaste with MX-4,I suppose I need to unmount board from case,which is for me a lot of job to do.

Or I don't need to remove the board?

 

[frozensun]

Running Cinebench R23 for 15 min results with open case,V core on manual 1.3 V.

 

[SavageNeo]

Alright seems pretty normal. 83C with 240mm AIO is pretty normal IMO. also 4.2ghz is decent on the 3900x too. you can use the 1usmus power paln if you are not comfortable. or limit the speed to 4.0-4.1ghz but those temps and clock speeds seem fine to me.

[frozensun]

I switched the Vcore to AUTO and now I ran C23 again,here are results,as I can see bost clock is lower (4.04 GHz) which I don't get it since the voltage is on AUTO.

Don't see an logic that CPU boost with higher freq when voltage set to MANUAL.

Should be like that?

So should I leave it like that or revert to manual voltage?

[SavageNeo]

should use manual voltage then

[frozensun]

6 minutes ago, SavageNeo said:

should use manual voltage then

Ooh okay,why?

Because of the higher clock speeds?

I just want to know judging by voltages which mode would be safer for my CPU,manual to 1.3 V or AUTO judging by these results?

Ooh damn,I see spikes to high 1.5 V in some cores when set to AUTOMATIC.

That is too high voltage for 3900X isn't it?

[SavageNeo]

2 minutes ago, frozensun said:

Because of the higher clock speeds?

yes.

 

2 minutes ago, frozensun said:

I just want to know judging by voltages which mode would be safer for my CPU,manual to 1.3 V or AUTO judging by these results?

1,3V is not high so it will be just fine. Also your temps are the same either way so should use the manual then. or try to lower it to 1.275V

[frozensun]

2 minutes ago, SavageNeo said:

yes.

 

1,3V is not high so it will be just fine. Also your temps are the same either way so should use the manual then. or try to lower it to 1.275V

Yeah but I don't understand,I set voltage to manual,but why does the voltage still increase above 1.3 V as you can see in HWInfo.

Shouldn't it 1.3 V be the max limit of voltage,or I don't undersand how this works.

I don't see any difference in max voltage when set to MANUAL OR AUTO.

What I'm worried about are those spikes to 1.494 either in AUTO OR MANUAL.

[SavageNeo]

Just now, frozensun said:

Yeah but I don't understand,I set voltage to manual,but why does the voltage still increase above 1.3 V as you can see in HWInfo.

Shouldn't it 1.3 V be the max limit of voltage,or I don't undersand how this works.

I don't see any difference in max voltage when set to MANUAL OR AUTO.

Voltage Vid is what your cpu wants/asks.

"Cpu Core Voltage" is the actual voltage. it is just over 1.3V