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About Applefreak

  • Title

Contact Methods

  • Steam

Profile Information

  • Location
    Innsbruck, Austria
  • Gender
  • Interests
    Science & Technolgy, Naturally aspirated V8 engines, PC-Hardware
  • Biography
    I've been building computers for myself and others.

    Here is a quick overview of builds that were and some still are in use by myself:

    1992 - Family computer based on Intel 80286 with 2 MB EDO-RAM Windows 3.1 on HDD plus 5.25 floppy
    1995 - Received old i486 SX 75 MHz computer with a Quantum 1.25 GB HDD, worked well with Windows 95
    1998 - My first new PC, Compaq Presario with an AMD K6-2 400 MHz, ATi Rage Pro with 8 MB VRAM
    1999 - Upgraded the same PC to 256 MB + the original 64 MB SD-RAM, also upgraded the GPU to a ATi Rage 128 Pro
    Also got a better heatsink and overclocked the CPU to 437 MHz stable
    2002 - Build my first PC on a ASRock K7VT2 paired with an AMD Duron 1.3 GHz and 768 MB SD-RAM
    2003 - Upgraded to a Radeon 9100 GPU and upgraded the memory to 1536 MB SD-DDR RAM
    2005 - New build based upon Intel's Pentium 4 Prescott with 2 GB SD-DDR2 on an ASUS P4P800 SE motherboard
    2006 - Replaced the Arctic Cooling Heatsink with my first Water cooling setup
    2007 - New build on an ASRock 775 Dual VSTA motherboard with a Pentium D 930 CPU with 4 GB SD-DDR2 RAM
    Also Watercooled but soon realized that the pump was to weak to add another radiator to overcome the extra heat load.
    So I've upgraded to the then brand new Noctua NH-U12P
    2008 - Switched motherboard to a Gigabyte GA-P35-DS4 and upgraded to 8 GB SD-DDR2 800 MHz RAM
    Later that year upgraded to a Xeon X3360 and 2x Radeon HD 2900 PRO
    2009 - First Radeon died to a flaw in the thermal solution, it got replaced by a HD 3850
    2011 - Replaced that card with a Radeon HD 6850
    2015 - The Radeon card died suddenly, switched to an old 9800 GTX
    2016 - New Graphics Card, EVGA GTX 960 SSC
    2018 - New build, NAS based on OMV, ASUS Sabretooth 990FX with a FX-8350 and 8x 2TB WD RE4 drives in ZFS2 and 16 GB SD-DDR3 ECC
    2019 - Upgraded my main PC, NAS and switch with 10 GB Aquantia AQ107 cards from ASUS
    2019 - Build 3x new office computers based on Athlon 3000G CPUs.
    2020 - Replaced my main PC with a MSI-B550-A Pro motherboard, a Ryzen 3 3100 and 32 GB SD-DDR4 Memory


    2020 or early 2021 - Upgrade main pc to ZEN 3 and get a new GPU

    Other interests:

    I am currently rebuilding a 1996 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.7, a 1985 Dodge Ram 5.9 as well as a 1972 BMW R75/5 motorcycle
    My daily drivers are a 2018 Moto Guzzi V9, a 2006 Jeep Commander V8 and a 2019 Ram 2500 6.4 (work truck)
    Once completed I'd like to rebuild a 1959 Peterbilt 351.

    Folding@home active supporter since 2009, Team: 179802
  • Occupation
    General Manager


  • CPU
    AMD Ryzen 3 3100
  • Motherboard
    MSI B550-A Pro
  • RAM
    32 GB G.Skill Ripjaws V SD-DDR4 @ 3200 CL16 (4x 8 GB DIMM)
  • GPU
    EVGA GTX 960 SSC ACX 2.0 2 GB
  • Case
    Cooler Master ATCS 840: 2x Noctua NF-P12 redux, 1x Noctua NF-S12A, 3x Noctua NF-A20 PWM Chromax black
  • Storage
    Crucial BX200 480 GB, ADATA XPG SX8200 Pro 512 GB (Windows), 1x WD Green 1 TB, 1x WD Green 3 TB, 1x Seagate ST2000DX001 2TB, 1x SanDisk 480 Plus (for Linux)
  • PSU
    Be Quiet Straight Power E9 680W CM
  • Display(s)
    AOC i2757 FH
  • Cooling
    Noctua NH-U12P with AM4 upgrade Kit + 1x NF-F12 PWM
    CPU Temp Idle ~35C, under Load ~48C, Room Temp 25C, Idle noise ~ 25 dbA, load noise ~ 45 dbA
  • Keyboard
    Cherry eVolution Stream XT 3.0
  • Mouse
    Logitech M500
  • Sound
    Sennheiser HD 380 pro + JBL 305P MKII @ ASUS Essence STX II 7.1
  • Operating System
    Windows 10 64 Pro 2004 + Linux Mint 20.1
  • Laptop
    Lenovo ThinkPad T400, Lenovo ThinkPad P53, Lenovo ThinkPad L390 Yoga
  • Phone
    Samsung Galaxy Note 2, Samsung Galaxy S7 Edge

Recent Profile Visitors

1,989 profile views
  1. That behavior is perfectly fine. With multi-core cpus, tasks will be done by different cores. Once an individual core is done it will return to a lower power state, thus dropping clocks. If one picks up a task it will clock higher to perform that task quicker and therefore that core is getting warmer. I see temperatures wandering between 36 and 47 C in windows sometimes going to 54 C copying files. That's just how those chips behave. If you were to use a big watercooler, those spikes in temperature would be less noticeable as the water has more thermal capacity than an air-cooler, meaning it w
  2. I haven't really looked into that yet. There are only a few screens that meat that criteria at the moment. You have the DELL, HP Omen, Samsung G7 and AOC. Honestly I would stick to 144 Hz unless you play professional e-sports titles for money.
  3. That is normal. The clocks will drop in idle reduce power drawn. If you have fans ramping up and down every couple of seconds, set a custom fan profile. From experience I can tell you that it is way more pleasing to the ear to have the fans set at higher minimum speed and ramp up later under an actual load then having it go up and down and up and down all the time.
  4. Techspot Looks pretty good there in terms of performance. I still think it is overpriced. For some reason the monitor is about 20 percent cheaper in Europe.
  5. Again, that was not my point. I was referring to the quality of the components that resulted in the lower rating. Which in turn reduce output efficiency and stability under peak load over time. Lower quality components on the PCB have a lower thermal threshold then those needed for a higher rated PSU in order. If the power supply runs under peak load for a certain amount of time and unless the room is getting cool air from the AC, the actual stable output wattage will drop. Increased heat increases resistance. If the board's logic works as intended it won't allow more amps at a certain point t
  6. Response time is important but what makes a big difference for games is input lag. Head over to TFTcentral.co.uk and read some reviews. They explain it in more detail. Unfortunately they have no review on that monitor but I have found one on another site that measured the actual response time between 15 and 32 ms (compared to the 1 ms marketing number, which usually only measures gtg or grey to grey transitions, which are faster than colors).
  7. That would be way better than a GT 1030. That's actually close to MSRP of the card when it launched brand new 4, 5 years ago.
  8. Adjust the input gain, either in windows or whatever program you use for chatting.
  9. B550 or X570. Look at the features you want and need and make your choice. Also look at reviews for in depth analysis on those boards.
  10. No idea, depends on what you can find but pretty much any card past 2015 is better than a 1030.
  11. I was referring to the manufacturers loss factor under full load when compared with the gold rated model. EVGA lists the PSU as having 480 Watts on the 12 V rail at 40C operating temperature (typically that refers to a load of 75 to 80 percent). If you stress out the components power, depending on their quality, you will loose efficiency. A lower rated PSU will typically have lesser components inside. That was not true though when 80+ units were the best you could get.
  12. I get that but 240 Hz is more of a gimmick. What you want to test for and check is input latency. If that monitor has bad input latency it could be slower than a 75 Hz panel that has excellent input latency for example. Also that monitor is only a Dell with fancier branding and DELL does not make screens either. It's probably a LG or Samsung panel. But if you really want it, go for it. But keep in mind that it is DELL and their warranty department has gotten so much worse over the years, you now have to wait 3 to 5 business days on a response by text message if you have an issue or want
  13. Not bad but I would look for a used graphics card in that price range. I don't like the noise profile of those Arctic fans at high speeds. But that is less important if you adjust the fan speed in bios to your liking.
  14. Then try unplugging the hardware and only run the essential stuff. If a drive is bad (bad sectors for example) it can halt the entire system for short moments. Same with bad memory. One thing you can try (had this issue on an old Core 2 Quad machine) is to disable windows system sounds completely. Open the menu and select no sounds. Then restart the system. That solved BSODs and stutters in BF 3 and 4 for me.
  15. A bronze unit, no. That unit would output around 410 - 420 Watts at full capacity. You will have to get yourself a 750 W or higher unit, 80+ gold or better if you can.