Should i repaste my RTX 3080 Suprim X for better temps & performance?

[rickje139]

I have gotten a RTX 3080 Suprim X 1 month ago and was wondering if its a good idea to repaste it with something like noctua NT-H2.

 

Is it a good idea to repaste my GPU and would it improve my temps & performance?

 

Would it not cause any issues? I have a slight feeling that something might lose tension and cause noise or issues because of opening the card to repaste it.

 

Specs:

RTX 3080 Suprim X

5900X

X570 Unify

Phanteks p400a

DDR4-3600 ram 32GB

[CommanderAlex]

if your temperatures are fine (they should be, its NEW), then don't risk damaging it in the process of repasting. If it's not broken, don't fix it. 

[Axeonelite]

I agree with @CommanderAlexbut I will say if you do end up repasting go big or go home with some liquid metal! My Razer Blade 15 went down 20 Degrees Celsius without any other updates.

[Middcore]

There is absolutely no need to repaste a 1-month old card.

 

Please don't start screwing around with liquid metal if you don't know what you're doing. 

[rickje139]

49 minutes ago, CommanderAlex said:

if your temperatures are fine (they should be, its NEW), then don't risk damaging it in the process of repasting. If it's not broken, don't fix it. 

I have just tested my GPU temps at stock (everything set to default and 100% power limit in afterburner)

 

My gpu temp reached 71 degrees on the gaming bios, reviewers say that the temps under load were 65 degrees at max after 15 minutes on the gaming bios.

reviewer picture:

 

Is this because of the paste or is it nothing? Kind of weird seeing these temps from a new card.

[Middcore]

Unless you can be sure your system is configured exactly the same way as the test system with regards to cooling, airflow, etc. then we can't compare the two temperatures. Also presumably the review card had the exact same paste job on it yours did unless the reviewers mentioned "yeah we took the card apart and repasted it with (whatever)."

 

Your cards temps are fine, they're far below the level that would cause any throttling or damage. Stop obsessing and enjoy a card very few people are lucky enough to get their hands on, for pity's sake.

 

 

[Mister Woof]

11 minutes ago, rickje139 said:

I have just tested my GPU temps at stock (everything set to default and 100% power limit in afterburner)

 

My gpu temp reached 71 degrees on the gaming bios, reviewers say that the temps under load were 65 degrees at max after 15 minutes on the gaming bios.

reviewer picture:

 

Is this because of the paste or is it nothing? Kind of weird seeing these temps from a new card.

71 is fine

 

Keep in mind that an absolute temperature comparison isn't that helpful, need to know delta over ambient.

 

Most places are testing in a climate controlled environment to 21-22c or so.

 

What's your ambient temp in the room? 

 

And of course as stated the configuration of your case and cooling.

 

[rickje139]

1 minute ago, Middcore said:

Unless you can be sure your system is configured exactly the same way as the test system with regards to cooling, airflow, etc. then we can't compare the two temperatures. Also presumably the review card had the exact same paste job on it yours did unless the reviewers mentioned "yeah we took the card apart and repasted it with (whatever)."

 

Your cards temps are fine, they're far below the level that would cause any throttling or damage. Stop obsessing and enjoy a card very few people are lucky enough to get their hands on, for pity's sake.

 

 

Im not sure if its configured the same, but i do keep seeing the same 65/66 degrees temperature across multiple reviewers.

My temps came up to 71 degrees at an even higher fan speed 19% higher than the reviewers and also a lower clock speed.

 

At idle its 20 degrees worse than the review!!

 

[rickje139]

9 minutes ago, Mister Woof said:

71 is fine

 

Keep in mind that an absolute temperature comparison isn't that helpful, need to know delta over ambient.

 

Most places are testing in a climate controlled environment to 21-22c or so.

 

What's your ambient temp in the room? 

 

And of course as stated the configuration of your case and cooling.

 

My room ambient is around 19 degrees right now (im guessing, have no sensor), its 1/2 degrees outside and i have been doing things at idle all day long, it feels very cold in my room.

 

I have corsair 120/140LL case fans, 3 at the front and 1 at the rear and a 140 at the top.

all the fans were set to 825 rpm at the test.

[Mister Woof]

10 minutes ago, rickje139 said:

My room ambient is around 19 degrees right now (im guessing, have no sensor), its 1/2 degrees outside and i have been doing things at idle all day long, it feels very cold in my room.

 

I have corsair 120/140LL case fans, 3 at the front and 1 at the rear and a 140 at the top.

all the fans were set to 825 rpm at the test.

Depends on the case also, many testers are using an open bench

[CommanderAlex]

39 minutes ago, rickje139 said:

I have just tested my GPU temps at stock (everything set to default and 100% power limit in afterburner)

 

My gpu temp reached 71 degrees on the gaming bios, reviewers say that the temps under load were 65 degrees at max after 15 minutes on the gaming bios.

reviewer picture:

~Snipped Photo~

 

Is this because of the paste or is it nothing? Kind of weird seeing these temps from a new card.

You can always set a custom fan curve to the card to achieve lower temperatures. That's what I've done with my card and I see 7-8 C lower temps. It seems like you are obsessing over this. Its perfectly normal your card and there is nothing to worry about. 

[rickje139]

8 minutes ago, CommanderAlex said:

You can always set a custom fan curve to the card to achieve lower temperatures. That's what I've done with my card and I see 7-8 C lower temps. It seems like you are obsessing over this. Its perfectly normal your card and there is nothing to worry about. 

I normally have my GPU overclocked at +125 on the core and +300 on the memory, but i always go up to 75/76 degrees with that, i really want the best cooling because it allows me to push the card even further.

It is an A tier card after all, it can achieve a lot.

[Rosendahl]

Hi Rickje139,

1) 71° is not a lot for a graphics card. It's fine for any task. Idle temperatures can also be caused by the fans not spinning (they won't start until the card hit 50°). If you want the cards to run at idle, make a custom fan curve in MSI Afterburner or similar software.

2) Have you tried undervolting it? It will certainly reduce the temperature, if that's your aim. Also many are having success with undervolting, yet not seeing a big performance hit. Let me know if you need some guidance, there are some great tutorials on reddit.

3) Do not go about changing the thermal paste unless something is really off. You will most likely break the warranty on a brand new card - and it's possible you will not a see an improvement, as we do not know your setup and ambient temperature.

I know this topic is over a month old, but I hope you see it or someone else searching around. Also be aware for 

[rickje139]

On 2/18/2021 at 8:53 AM, Rosendahl said:

Hi Rickje139,

1) 71° is not a lot for a graphics card. It's fine for any task. Idle temperatures can also be caused by the fans not spinning (they won't start until the card hit 50°). If you want the cards to run at idle, make a custom fan curve in MSI Afterburner or similar software.

2) Have you tried undervolting it? It will certainly reduce the temperature, if that's your aim. Also many are having success with undervolting, yet not seeing a big performance hit. Let me know if you need some guidance, there are some great tutorials on reddit.

3) Do not go about changing the thermal paste unless something is really off. You will most likely break the warranty on a brand new card - and it's possible you will not a see an improvement, as we do not know your setup and ambient temperature.

I know this topic is over a month old, but I hope you see it or someone else searching around. Also be aware for 

I have overclocked it, as of now its reaching 80 degrees ingame.

+120 core
+350 memory

[SFFDesigns]

15 minutes ago, rickje139 said:

80 degrees ingame.

What's the room temperature?

 

I wouldn't repaste still, there must be another issue causing 80° C temps on that particular card, if you mine for a year then notice high temps, that'd be a good time to repaste/reapply thermal pads. 

[rickje139]

53 minutes ago, Hymenopus_Coronatus said:

What's the room temperature?

 

I wouldn't repaste still, there must be another issue causing 80° C temps on that particular card, if you mine for a year then notice high temps, that'd be a good time to repaste/reapply thermal pads. 

21 degrees.

 

however though, i have a 360MM radiator at the front, the CPU was around 60-65 degrees and the fans were around 1200-1400RPM

[Falkentyne]

Repasting your card is easy.

Just grab some decent, thick thermal paste (thick is important because these cores are notoriously convex, so a thin paste like Kryonaut may NOT be the best!),

I recommend Thermalright TFX (Thermagic ZF-EX from China / vietnamese shops is the same paste btw), Thermalright TF8 (seems to be the same as Thermagic ZF-12) or Coolermaster Mastergel Maker Nano (the new versions seem to be thicker than the old).

 

then repaste it with one of these two patterns:

X with 4 small drops in each quadrant of the X:

 

 

Or alternatively, the 5 larger dot method (do NOT spread either one!  let the heatsink spread it for you!)

 

 

 

Thick pastes should never be spread manually.

Also, doing a pattern helps when you are testing for contact pressure (see below).

 

That's the easy part.

 

The hard part is thermal pads.  No, not applying the thermal pads.  Knowing WHICH thickness pads to buy.

You want at least 6 w/mk at the very minimum (e.g. Arctic 145mm * 145mm sample sizes, or one of the various blue pad "Arctic clones").  Thermalright Odyssey pads are highly respected and people have had good luck with them.  Gelid pads are also very good (Avoid the highway robbery fujipoly 17 w/mk pads).

 

When you take apart a card to repaste the GPU, most of the time the stock pads can't be re-used.  They either flake apart, which means they MUST be discarded, or, due to their very high compressibility, wind up not making proper contact anymore and GDDR6X or VRM temps (you can't monitor VRM temps on most cards) get much higher!  So you will need to know the exact pad thickness.  

 

Unfortunately, getting the exact pad dimensions for your card is one of the most difficult things on the internet.  You have to rely on others who have measured the pads *with the stock heatsink*.  And there are often different thicknesses for the front side, back side or even different sections of the front or back, depending on your card!

 

If you intend to repad your card, do yourself a favor and buy a caliper.  They are NOT expensive.  You don't need one of those SUPER EXPENSIVE Mitutoyo calipers (which often have counterfeits floating around on Amazon and ebay).  Just buy something like this:

 

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08KPZV9KR/

(This is the one I have.  This will work perfectly for you).

Then what you need to do is to measure the thickness of the original pads, at the edges (the non squished in part), for each section of the GPU and try to match that thickness.

On the GPU Core side, when using aftermarket pads, you do not want the pads you are buying to be thicker than the original pads as this could compromise core -->heatsink contact.  

 

Obviously, someone telling you the exact thickness is the best, but you often have to be the man and just measure them for yourself.  One thing that I find helpful is to buy an assortment of CHEAP 6 w/mk blue thermal pads, so you can do contact testing (Making sure the GPU Core contacts the heatsink!) while also watching for chip IC impressions on your pads (making sure there is contact !)

 

Arctic's pad collection (avoid their "basic" red pad line) is here, but a bunch of them are out of stock.

 

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00UYTTXSM/

I usually recommended the clone pads : https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B086VYKZN4/ and two months ago, they had 200mm * 200mm pads of every thickness you could want, all in stock--now they're all gone.  Yeah.  Bad times.

Here's a 1.5mm giant sized pad that's in stock if you want a 1.5mm sample.

https://www.amazon.com/Thermal-Compound-Coolers-Heatsink-Northbridge/dp/B08PSFB4LL/

You'll also need a 0.5mm, 1.0mm and possibly a 2.0mm (but keep in mind you can always stack a 1.5mm and 0.5mm if you cant find a 2mm).

 

Finally, when experimenting with contact pressure, do you remember the X pattern and the 5 dot pattern I told you about?

Well, if you aren't sure if you have the right pads, you can save your thermal paste and use Mayonnaise or Toothpaste instead!  Then you can see if it spreads with your pads.  Then once you have the perfect pad spacing and thickness, then switch to your thermal paste.  You can save a lot of wasted paste ($$) by doing this.

 

Good luck.

[vf1000ride]

On 1/4/2021 at 8:43 PM, rickje139 said:

Im not sure if its configured the same, but i do keep seeing the same 65/66 degrees temperature across multiple reviewers.

My temps came up to 71 degrees at an even higher fan speed 19% higher than the reviewers and also a lower clock speed.

 

At idle its 20 degrees worse than the review!!

 

 

 

Unless someone already mentioned it, sorry to repeat.  You said you have the Suprim-X card and the reviews your looking at are for the standard Suprim model.  The Suprim-X is factory overclocked more than the non-X model but has the same cooler on it.  It will probably run warmer just from that alone.

[rickje139]

7 minutes ago, vf1000ride said:

Unless someone already mentioned it, sorry to repeat.  You said you have the Suprim-X card and the reviews your looking at are for the standard Suprim model.  The Suprim-X is factory overclocked more than the non-X model but has the same cooler on it.  It will probably run warmer just from that alone.

I noticed that aswell just now, but there is still a suprim X picture above them, showing that its at 67 degrees in the gaming bios.

There are a lot more reviews now and they all point towards the same temperature, around 65-70 degrees in the gaming bios.

 

My card is reaching 80-82 degrees right now.

[rickje139]

On 2/25/2021 at 7:21 AM, Falkentyne said:

Repasting your card is easy.

Just grab some decent, thick thermal paste (thick is important because these cores are notoriously convex, so a thin paste like Kryonaut may NOT be the best!),

I recommend Thermalright TFX (Thermagic ZF-EX from China / vietnamese shops is the same paste btw), Thermalright TF8 (seems to be the same as Thermagic ZF-12) or Coolermaster Mastergel Maker Nano (the new versions seem to be thicker than the old).

 

then repaste it with one of these two patterns:

X with 4 small drops in each quadrant of the X:

 

 

Or alternatively, the 5 larger dot method (do NOT spread either one!  let the heatsink spread it for you!)

 

 

 

Thick pastes should never be spread manually.

Also, doing a pattern helps when you are testing for contact pressure (see below).

 

That's the easy part.

 

The hard part is thermal pads.  No, not applying the thermal pads.  Knowing WHICH thickness pads to buy.

You want at least 6 w/mk at the very minimum (e.g. Arctic 145mm * 145mm sample sizes, or one of the various blue pad "Arctic clones").  Thermalright Odyssey pads are highly respected and people have had good luck with them.  Gelid pads are also very good (Avoid the highway robbery fujipoly 17 w/mk pads).

 

When you take apart a card to repaste the GPU, most of the time the stock pads can't be re-used.  They either flake apart, which means they MUST be discarded, or, due to their very high compressibility, wind up not making proper contact anymore and GDDR6X or VRM temps (you can't monitor VRM temps on most cards) get much higher!  So you will need to know the exact pad thickness.  

 

Unfortunately, getting the exact pad dimensions for your card is one of the most difficult things on the internet.  You have to rely on others who have measured the pads *with the stock heatsink*.  And there are often different thicknesses for the front side, back side or even different sections of the front or back, depending on your card!

 

If you intend to repad your card, do yourself a favor and buy a caliper.  They are NOT expensive.  You don't need one of those SUPER EXPENSIVE Mitutoyo calipers (which often have counterfeits floating around on Amazon and ebay).  Just buy something like this:

 

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08KPZV9KR/

(This is the one I have.  This will work perfectly for you).

Then what you need to do is to measure the thickness of the original pads, at the edges (the non squished in part), for each section of the GPU and try to match that thickness.

On the GPU Core side, when using aftermarket pads, you do not want the pads you are buying to be thicker than the original pads as this could compromise core -->heatsink contact.  

 

Obviously, someone telling you the exact thickness is the best, but you often have to be the man and just measure them for yourself.  One thing that I find helpful is to buy an assortment of CHEAP 6 w/mk blue thermal pads, so you can do contact testing (Making sure the GPU Core contacts the heatsink!) while also watching for chip IC impressions on your pads (making sure there is contact !)

 

Arctic's pad collection (avoid their "basic" red pad line) is here, but a bunch of them are out of stock.

 

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00UYTTXSM/

I usually recommended the clone pads : https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B086VYKZN4/ and two months ago, they had 200mm * 200mm pads of every thickness you could want, all in stock--now they're all gone.  Yeah.  Bad times.

Here's a 1.5mm giant sized pad that's in stock if you want a 1.5mm sample.

https://www.amazon.com/Thermal-Compound-Coolers-Heatsink-Northbridge/dp/B08PSFB4LL/

You'll also need a 0.5mm, 1.0mm and possibly a 2.0mm (but keep in mind you can always stack a 1.5mm and 0.5mm if you cant find a 2mm).

 

Finally, when experimenting with contact pressure, do you remember the X pattern and the 5 dot pattern I told you about?

Well, if you aren't sure if you have the right pads, you can save your thermal paste and use Mayonnaise or Toothpaste instead!  Then you can see if it spreads with your pads.  Then once you have the perfect pad spacing and thickness, then switch to your thermal paste.  You can save a lot of wasted paste ($$) by doing this.

 

Good luck.

This is the best advice i have ever seen anywhere.

Thank you so much!

 

I was wondering if there is anything else i can do in the process, wasting money isn't really something i worry about, i really just want the best experience possible.

My card reaches a max of 2085 mhz at around 63-65 degrees (when i turn on my airconditioning lol)

and is mostly on 2025-2040 mhz.

 

What would you recommend as the best possible parts i can use for replacing the thermal paste on the gpu and thermal pads.

 

[Tan3l6]

On 2/25/2021 at 8:21 AM, Falkentyne said:

I recommend Thermalright TFX (Thermagic ZF-EX from China / vietnamese shops is the same paste btw), Thermalright TF8 (seems to be the same as Thermagic ZF-12) or Coolermaster Mastergel Maker Nano (the new versions seem to be thicker than the old).

I know it's an old thread, but just a bit of info is all I need.

Why do you think ZF-12 is same as Thermalright TF8? As the Thermalright advertises a bit higher W/mK (13.8) than ZF-12 (12)

Either value would be great, as ordering moderate/unnecessary amount of ZF-12 from Aliexpress would cost less than an 1€ per gram.

[Falkentyne]

On 5/10/2021 at 11:29 AM, Tan3l6 said:

I know it's an old thread, but just a bit of info is all I need.

Why do you think ZF-12 is same as Thermalright TF8? As the Thermalright advertises a bit higher W/mK (13.8) than ZF-12 (12)

Either value would be great, as ordering moderate/unnecessary amount of ZF-12 from Aliexpress would cost less than an 1€ per gram.

They don't come from the same OEM (e.g. thermalright), but definitely from the same factory.

Several people already compared TFX and ZF-EX side by side and found no differences, so it is highly possible that ZF-12 and TF8 are also exactly the same (but I haven't seen  side by side test yet.  I DID order ZF-12 once from Aliexpress and it was lost in the mail so I had to wait 3 months for a refund.  All of the ZF-EX however did arrive to me.

 

ZF-EX and TFX are identical.  Performance and feel is exactly the same and I've also done squish and spread tests on them on glass and on my fingers.

They are literally 100% exactly the same, with the only variance whether one tube is really dry and another is not quite as dry (seen that between two packages of ZF-EX, and even had one tube of TFX which was dryer than another).  But once squished out it's the exact same stuff.  When you spread it out extremely thin (e.g. with a glass pressed on something) and then you try to wipe it up with your fingers, it literally feels like clay.