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Will this build (TX650M 80 Plus PSU) be able to support an upgrade to a ASUS GeForce RTX 2080 Ti ROG Strix?

Tyuzo

Hello everyone! I found a really good deal on a used ASUS RTX 2080 Ti ROG Strix and would love to install it to my current rig, but I'm not sure if my PSU will be able to handle the upgrade. I currently have a TX650M 80 Plus PSU from Corsair and have had zero problems with it running my 2070 Super. I've included my full build below:

 

PCPartPicker Part List

i9-10900k | ASUS GeForce RTX 3080 ROG Strix OC | 32GB RAM @ 3200MHz

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The TX650M will be fine to use with the 2080Ti.

CPU: Intel i7 6700k  | Motherboard: Gigabyte Z170x Gaming 5 | RAM: 2x16GB 3000MHz Corsair Vengeance LPX | GPU: Gigabyte Aorus GTX 1080ti | PSU: Corsair RM750x (2018) | Case: BeQuiet SilentBase 800 | Cooler: Arctic Freezer 34 eSports | SSD: Samsung 970 Evo 500GB + Samsung 840 500GB + Crucial MX500 2TB | Monitor: Acer Predator XB271HU + Samsung BX2450

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3 hours ago, maloz1995 said:

Hello everyone! I found a really good deal on a used ASUS RTX 2080 Ti ROG Strix and would love to install it to my current rig, but I'm not sure if my PSU will be able to handle the upgrade. I currently have a TX650M 80 Plus PSU from Corsair and have had zero problems with it running my 2070 Super. I've included my full build below:

 

PCPartPicker Part List

 

 

If you run everything at stock speeds it might be OK depending....

 

But if you plan on OCing then I would recommend getting a 750W or even 850W...... RMX or higher....

 

You can try your current PSU, but at the 1st issue I would replace it with the above...

 

The choice is all yours....

 

As a side note the TXM 650W is 51A on the 12V +  612W...... You will be pushing it....... And that's not even getting into you don't have enough EPS cables to fully power the MB. Yours takes 2x EPS connections and you only have one cable...

 

So you should have gotten a PSU with 2x EPS cables from the start, normally they are 750W and up...

i9 9900K @ 5.0 GHz, NH D15, 32 GB DDR4 3200 GSKILL Trident Z RGB, AORUS Z390 MASTER, EVGA RTX 3080 FTW3 Ultra, Samsung 970 EVO Plus 500GB, Samsung 860 EVO 1TB, Samsung 860 EVO 500GB, ASUS ROG Swift PG279Q 27", Steel Series APEX PRO, Logitech Gaming Pro Mouse, CM Master Case 5, Corsair AXI 1600W Titanium. 

 

i7 8086K, AORUS Z370 Gaming 5, 16GB GSKILL RJV DDR4 3200, EVGA 2080TI FTW3 Ultra, Samsung 970 EVO 250GB, (2)SAMSUNG 860 EVO 500 GB, Acer Predator XB1 XB271HU, Corsair HXI 850W.

 

i7 8700K, AORUS Z370 Ultra Gaming, 16GB DDR4 3000, EVGA 1080Ti FTW3 Ultra, Samsung 960 EVO 250GB, Corsair HX 850W.

 

 

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5 hours ago, Ankerson said:

And that's not even getting into you don't have enough EPS cables to fully power the MB. Yours takes 2x EPS connections and you only have one cable...

 

So you should have gotten a PSU with 2x EPS cables from the start, normally they are 750W and up...

Well this is a load of crap. Unless you are overclocking your CPU with LN2, you don't need more than one 8pin EPS connector connected to the motherboard. A 8 pin (4+4) EPS connector can deliver around 235w for continuous loads if I recall correctly, and the only time you are going to draw more than that from the 10900k at stock settings is if you run Prime95 with AVX enabled, drawing about 332w. If he's just gaming, he'll be more than fine. Even most rendering apps wouldn't draw more than 230w from it.

 

Using a 10900k and a 2080Ti during gaming, the whole system draws about 400w so the TX650M is more than enough for his build. Now if he wants to overclock, he would need either a >700w PSU (since most of them have 2x8 EPS connectors) or something like a 650w Phanteks AMP which has 2x8 EPS connectors so that the motherboard has enough power to handle it, but honestly, overclocking the 10900k is not really worth it compared to stock settings.

MAIN PC:

CPU: Intel® Core™ i9-9900K Processor  Motherboard: Gigabyte Z390 Aorus Pro Wifi  CPU Cooler: Scythe Fuma 2  GPU: EVGA RTX 3080 FTW3 Ultra  RAM: Corsair Vengeance 32GB (4x8GB) 3000Mhz CL15

Case: CoolerMaster TD500 Mesh PSU: Thermaltake GF1 PE 750w Storage: 1TB Western Digital Blue 3D + 1TB Crucial P1 + 1TB ADATA XPG Gammix S11 Pro + 4TB Seagate Barracuda 5400RPM OS: Windows 10 Home

Headphones: Philips SHP9500s   Keyboard: Corsair K70 RGB MK.2 Cherry MX Red  Displays: Gigabyte M27Q (27" 1440p 170hz IPS), Samsung UN32EH4003FXZA (32" 768p 60hz TV)

 

SECONDARY PC:

CPU: Intel® Core™ i3-9100F Processor  Motherboard: ASRock Z390 Phantom Gaming 4-CB  CPU Cooler: Arctic Alpine 12 CO  GPU: EVGA RTX 3060 XC RAM: ADATA XPG 16GB (2x8GB) 2400Mhz CL16

Case: CyberpowerPC Onyxia  PSU: ATNG ATA-B 800w 80 Plus Bronze  Storage: 500GB Samsung 850 EVO + 2TB Seagate FireCuda SSHD 5400RPM    OS: Windows 10 Home

 

Former parts that I've used: Acer XG270HU, Asus Dual OC 2080, Gigabyte Aorus Master 3080, Gigabyte Gaming OC 3080, EVGA XC3 Ultra 3080, EVGA FTW3 Ultra 3080 Ti

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One EPS cable will take about 235W for continues load, above 320W for pick, your CPU with turbo on all cores will take about 200W (when all cores are working to max), if you are O.K. with one EPS cable you should be O.K. with one cable after the upgrade.

*Not in OC, in turbo mode.

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11 minutes ago, MrBrightSyde said:

 

Well this is a load of crap. Unless you are overclocking your CPU with LN2, you don't need more than one 8pin EPS connector connected to the motherboard. A 8 pin (4+4) EPS connector can deliver around 285w if I recall correctly, and the only time you are going to draw more than that from the 10900k at stock settings is if you run Prime95 with AVX enabled, drawing about 332w. If he's just gaming, he'll be more than fine. Even most rendering apps wouldn't draw more than 250w from it.

 

Using a 10900k and a 2080Ti during gaming, the whole system draws about 400w so the TX650M is more than enough for his build. Now if he wants to overclock, he would need either a >700w PSU (since most of them have 2x8 EPS connectors) or something like a 650w Phanteks AMP which has 2x8 EPS connectors so that the motherboard has enough power to handle it, but honestly, overclocking the 10900k is not really worth it compared to stock settings.

 

All depends on the settings and the power limits set in the BIOS....

 

Even the 9900K can pull 250W OC with the power limits turned off.

 

MY system, just the CPU and GPU alone can draw 650W in stress testing..... That's not including the rest of it....

 

Don't underestimate how much power these machines can pull under the right conditions.

i9 9900K @ 5.0 GHz, NH D15, 32 GB DDR4 3200 GSKILL Trident Z RGB, AORUS Z390 MASTER, EVGA RTX 3080 FTW3 Ultra, Samsung 970 EVO Plus 500GB, Samsung 860 EVO 1TB, Samsung 860 EVO 500GB, ASUS ROG Swift PG279Q 27", Steel Series APEX PRO, Logitech Gaming Pro Mouse, CM Master Case 5, Corsair AXI 1600W Titanium. 

 

i7 8086K, AORUS Z370 Gaming 5, 16GB GSKILL RJV DDR4 3200, EVGA 2080TI FTW3 Ultra, Samsung 970 EVO 250GB, (2)SAMSUNG 860 EVO 500 GB, Acer Predator XB1 XB271HU, Corsair HXI 850W.

 

i7 8700K, AORUS Z370 Ultra Gaming, 16GB DDR4 3000, EVGA 1080Ti FTW3 Ultra, Samsung 960 EVO 250GB, Corsair HX 850W.

 

 

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1 hour ago, Ankerson said:

 

All depends on the settings and the power limits set in the BIOS....

 

Even the 9900K can pull 250W OC with the power limits turned off.

 

MY system, just the CPU and GPU alone can draw 650W in stress testing..... That's not including the rest of it....

 

Don't underestimate how much power these machines can pull under the right conditions.

See, that's the thing. You are assuming multiple things about what OP is going to do. I only assume stock settings and for gaming (mostly since if you are going for multi-threaded tasks like rendering, you'd go Ryzen)

 

First, stress testing != real world performance. Stress testing is pushing your PC to the limits, so it's very unrealistic in most cases. And I'm not underestimating, you are overestimating what it realistically draws.

 

Second, it depends if OP wants to OC, which I addressed in my original comment. If OP is just running stock for the CPU, the TX650M is just fine, even if he overclocks the 2080Ti. And I would advise to not OC the 10900k anyway, since the gains are very minimal.

MAIN PC:

CPU: Intel® Core™ i9-9900K Processor  Motherboard: Gigabyte Z390 Aorus Pro Wifi  CPU Cooler: Scythe Fuma 2  GPU: EVGA RTX 3080 FTW3 Ultra  RAM: Corsair Vengeance 32GB (4x8GB) 3000Mhz CL15

Case: CoolerMaster TD500 Mesh PSU: Thermaltake GF1 PE 750w Storage: 1TB Western Digital Blue 3D + 1TB Crucial P1 + 1TB ADATA XPG Gammix S11 Pro + 4TB Seagate Barracuda 5400RPM OS: Windows 10 Home

Headphones: Philips SHP9500s   Keyboard: Corsair K70 RGB MK.2 Cherry MX Red  Displays: Gigabyte M27Q (27" 1440p 170hz IPS), Samsung UN32EH4003FXZA (32" 768p 60hz TV)

 

SECONDARY PC:

CPU: Intel® Core™ i3-9100F Processor  Motherboard: ASRock Z390 Phantom Gaming 4-CB  CPU Cooler: Arctic Alpine 12 CO  GPU: EVGA RTX 3060 XC RAM: ADATA XPG 16GB (2x8GB) 2400Mhz CL16

Case: CyberpowerPC Onyxia  PSU: ATNG ATA-B 800w 80 Plus Bronze  Storage: 500GB Samsung 850 EVO + 2TB Seagate FireCuda SSHD 5400RPM    OS: Windows 10 Home

 

Former parts that I've used: Acer XG270HU, Asus Dual OC 2080, Gigabyte Aorus Master 3080, Gigabyte Gaming OC 3080, EVGA XC3 Ultra 3080, EVGA FTW3 Ultra 3080 Ti

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21 minutes ago, MrBrightSyde said:

See, that's the thing. You are assuming multiple things about what OP is going to do. I only assume stock settings and for gaming (mostly since if you are going for multi-threaded tasks like rendering, you'd go Ryzen)

 

First, stress testing != real world performance. Stress testing is pushing your PC to the limits, so it's very unrealistic in most cases. And I'm not underestimating, you are overestimating what it realistically draws.

 

Second, it depends if OP wants to OC, which I addressed in my original comment. If OP is just running stock for the CPU, the TX650M is just fine, even if he overclocks the 2080Ti. And I would advise to not OC the 10900k anyway, since the gains are very minimal.

 

 

You go by what it can draw..... ;)

 

The thing is we really don't know what someone might really do so taking the safe recommendation is normally best. 

 

Sure, yeah the 650 might be fine IF.... And IF can be a very large word.....

 

I learned that long time ago when I was working on and building PCs..

 

I could go into human nature and dealing with customers and just people in general but I won't do that here..... It's not the place for that...

 

 

i9 9900K @ 5.0 GHz, NH D15, 32 GB DDR4 3200 GSKILL Trident Z RGB, AORUS Z390 MASTER, EVGA RTX 3080 FTW3 Ultra, Samsung 970 EVO Plus 500GB, Samsung 860 EVO 1TB, Samsung 860 EVO 500GB, ASUS ROG Swift PG279Q 27", Steel Series APEX PRO, Logitech Gaming Pro Mouse, CM Master Case 5, Corsair AXI 1600W Titanium. 

 

i7 8086K, AORUS Z370 Gaming 5, 16GB GSKILL RJV DDR4 3200, EVGA 2080TI FTW3 Ultra, Samsung 970 EVO 250GB, (2)SAMSUNG 860 EVO 500 GB, Acer Predator XB1 XB271HU, Corsair HXI 850W.

 

i7 8700K, AORUS Z370 Ultra Gaming, 16GB DDR4 3000, EVGA 1080Ti FTW3 Ultra, Samsung 960 EVO 250GB, Corsair HX 850W.

 

 

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8 hours ago, Ankerson said:

As a side note the TXM 650W is 51A on the 12V +  612W...... You will be pushing it....... And that's not even getting into you don't have enough EPS cables to fully power the MB. Yours takes 2x EPS connections and you only have one cable...

 

So you should have gotten a PSU with 2x EPS cables from the start, normally they are 750W and up...

1 hour ago, Ankerson said:

You go by what it can draw..... ;)

 

The thing is we really don't know what someone might really do so taking the safe recommendation is normally best. 

 

Sure, yeah the 650 might be fine IF.... And IF can be a very large word.....

Here we go again.

If you're on ambient cooling, unless you're powering a PBO Threadripper, an overclocked Cascade Lake or 5.2-5.3GHz+ all-core 10900K, and hammer them with Prime95 Small FFT 24/7, you do not need more than a single 8-pin.

Now of course you won't believe me or anyone else on here telling you otherwise, so look up Buildzoid's videos - he even shortly talked about this in his recent 10700K overclocking video, which is essentially a 9900K btw.

 

You can pull 350W+ on an EPS 8-pin no problem, but with motherboards that've got ASUS' "ProCool" connector for example (I think that's the marketing word they use for this; mentioning this since OP's using a Strix Z490-F) and supporting PSUs (I can't recall exactly the gauge required for this) you can pull 480W through a single 8-pin no problem. Tell me one example regarding modern CPUs where you can get them to pull more than 350W (or 384W to be exact), let alone 480W, on ambient cooling. Air or water, so not LN2.

 

For reference, regarding power draw on modern CPUs, here's a chart from GN:

11_power-blender-nt.png.2d5b5f44a1447c7a5a8d362530310e2f.png

Nuff said

Edited by Mateyyy

Desktop: Intel Core i9-9900K | ASUS Strix Z390-F | G.Skill Trident Z Neo 2x16GB 3200MHz CL14 | EVGA GeForce RTX 2070 SUPER XC Ultra | Corsair RM650x | Fractal Design Define R6

Laptop: 2018 Apple MacBook Pro 13"  --  i5-8259U | 8GB LPDDR3 | 512GB NVMe

Peripherals: Leopold FC660C w/ Topre Silent 45g | Logitech MX Master 3 & Razer Basilisk X HyperSpeed | HIFIMAN HE400se & iFi ZEN DAC | Audio-Technica AT2020USB+

Display: Gigabyte G34WQC

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14 minutes ago, Mateyyy said:

Here we go again.

If you're on ambient cooling, unless you're powering a PBO Threadripper, an overclocked Cascade Lake or 5.2-5.3GHz+ all-core 10900K, and hammer them with Prime95 Small FFT 24/7, you do not need more than a single 8-pin.

Now of course you won't believe me or anyone else on here telling you otherwise, so look up Buildzoid's videos - he even shortly talked about this in his recent 10700K overclocking video, which is essentially a 9900K btw.

 

You can pull 350W+ on an EPS 8-pin no problem, but with motherboards that've got ASUS' "ProCool" connector for example (I think that's the marketing word they use for this; mentioning this since OP's using a Strix Z490-F) and supporting PSUs (I can't recall exactly the gauge required for this) you can pull 480W through a single 8-pin no problem. Tell me one example regarding modern CPUs where you can get them to pull more than 350W (or 384W to be exact), let alone 480W, on ambient cooling. Air or water, so not LN2.

 

For reference, regarding power draw on modern CPUs, here's a chart from GN:

11_power-blender-nt.png.2d5b5f44a1447c7a5a8d362530310e2f.png

Nuff said

 

 

That's were people make the mistake, all they do is look at wattage...

 

It's the actual motherboard and how it's designed that is the real issue.

 

They just don't put that 2nd EPS connector there for looks....

 

And no it's not just for LN2 overclocking either.

 

 

 

 

i9 9900K @ 5.0 GHz, NH D15, 32 GB DDR4 3200 GSKILL Trident Z RGB, AORUS Z390 MASTER, EVGA RTX 3080 FTW3 Ultra, Samsung 970 EVO Plus 500GB, Samsung 860 EVO 1TB, Samsung 860 EVO 500GB, ASUS ROG Swift PG279Q 27", Steel Series APEX PRO, Logitech Gaming Pro Mouse, CM Master Case 5, Corsair AXI 1600W Titanium. 

 

i7 8086K, AORUS Z370 Gaming 5, 16GB GSKILL RJV DDR4 3200, EVGA 2080TI FTW3 Ultra, Samsung 970 EVO 250GB, (2)SAMSUNG 860 EVO 500 GB, Acer Predator XB1 XB271HU, Corsair HXI 850W.

 

i7 8700K, AORUS Z370 Ultra Gaming, 16GB DDR4 3000, EVGA 1080Ti FTW3 Ultra, Samsung 960 EVO 250GB, Corsair HX 850W.

 

 

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3 minutes ago, Ankerson said:

It's the actual motherboard and how it's designed that is the real issue.

An 8 pin eps is an 8 pin eps, and even without the solid pin connector, the 8 pin can easily provide 384w of power. 

The vrm and the design of the board is something else. 

PC: Motherboard: ASUS B550M TUF-Plus, CPU: Ryzen 3 3100, CPU Cooler: Arctic Freezer 34, GPU: GIGABYTE WindForce GTX1650S, RAM: HyperX Fury RGB 2x8GB 3200 CL16, Case, CoolerMaster MB311L ARGB, Boot Drive: 250GB MX500, Game Drive: WD Blue 1TB 7200RPM HDD.

 

Peripherals: GK61 (Optical Gateron Red) with Mistel White/Orange keycaps, Logitech G102 (Purple), BitWit Ensemble Grey Deskpad. 

 

Audio: Logitech G432, Moondrop Starfield, Mic: Razer Siren Mini (White).

 

Phone: Pixel 3a (Purple-ish).

 

Build Log: 

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28 minutes ago, Ankerson said:

That's were people make the mistake, all they do is look at wattage...

 

It's the actual motherboard and how it's designed that is the real issue.

 

They just don't put that 2nd EPS connector there for looks....

 

And no it's not just for LN2 overclocking either.

Alright, I guess you should teach Buildzoid how to overclock then /s

Desktop: Intel Core i9-9900K | ASUS Strix Z390-F | G.Skill Trident Z Neo 2x16GB 3200MHz CL14 | EVGA GeForce RTX 2070 SUPER XC Ultra | Corsair RM650x | Fractal Design Define R6

Laptop: 2018 Apple MacBook Pro 13"  --  i5-8259U | 8GB LPDDR3 | 512GB NVMe

Peripherals: Leopold FC660C w/ Topre Silent 45g | Logitech MX Master 3 & Razer Basilisk X HyperSpeed | HIFIMAN HE400se & iFi ZEN DAC | Audio-Technica AT2020USB+

Display: Gigabyte G34WQC

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The 384W based on this

192x2

http://www.playtool.com/pages/psuconnectors/connectors.html

image.png.6c45e57ecef15e7429cc89fa685a0dd0.png

The heat is very depends on the connections, instructors, numbers of wires, temp.

For continues load this is more reasonable

https://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/wire-gauges-d_419.html

For 18 AWG about 5A (4-6 cores).

That why you can found this

"The 4 pin supplies 155 watts, and the 8 pin supplies 235 continuous watts".

From intel ATX 2.52

https://www.intel.com/content/dam/www/public/us/en/documents/guides/power-supply-design-guide-june.pdf

For modular connections.

24A-32A.

For 11.8V

280W-380W

Read the note.

image.png.c35ea7c8f7eecad56fe68e0c7f21d2bd.png

TDP of i9 10900k is 125W.

From this table the continuous current is 25A.

25A=(SoC sustain power)/0.85/11.4 

SoC sustain power=240W.

image.png.878c03f665b012d02d31a4228de7e662.png

*the 240VA its not requirement any more (for few years).

image.png

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