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What can I do to make this system look nicer?

boey
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So currently this is my attemp at a black and white build, unfortunately I have a billion fans and so the cable management is a little messy. I find that my PSU cables are pretty ugly and the green PCB on my OEM 1070 irritates the living hell out of me. 

 

Right now I plan on getting some white cablemod cables, a corsair commander pro(so the pwm fan connectors can’t be seen), and three more LL120s on the bottom.

 

Any other things I can do to make this look nicer? My long term goal is to replace the GPU for one that matches the colours and ultimately the CPU.(Maybe I’ll upgrade the cooler to an AIO for aesthetics) I find it looks a little empty too. 

 

PCPartpicker Link: 

 

 

4863965F-E60F-49FE-80D3-9EB9D46A865D.jpeg

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get a backplate replacement to hide the green PCB?

CPU: i7-2600K 4751MHz 1.44V (software) --> 1.47V at the back of the socket Motherboard: Asrock Z77 Extreme4 (BCLK: 103.3MHz) CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-D15 RAM: Adata XPG 2x8GB DDR3 (XMP: 2133MHz 10-11-11-30 CR2, custom: 2203MHz 10-11-10-26 CR1 tRFC:230 tREFI:14000) GPU: Asus GTX 1070 Dual (Super Jetstream vbios, +70(2025-2088MHz)/+400(8.8Gbps)) SSD: Samsung 840 Pro 256GB (main boot drive), Transcend SSD370 128GB PSU: Seasonic X-660 80+ Gold Case: Antec P110 Silent, 5 intakes 1 exhaust Monitor: AOC G2460PF 1080p 144Hz (150Hz max w/ DP, 121Hz max w/ HDMI) TN panel Keyboard: Logitech G610 Orion (Cherry MX Blue) with SteelSeries Apex M260 keycaps Mouse: BenQ Zowie FK1

 

Model: HP Omen 17 17-an110ca CPU: i7-8750H (0.125V core & cache, 50mV SA undervolt) GPU: GTX 1060 6GB Mobile (+80/+450, 1650MHz~1750MHz 0.78V~0.85V) RAM: 8+8GB DDR4-2400 18-17-17-39 2T Storage: 1TB HP EX920 PCIe x4 M.2 SSD + 1TB Seagate 7200RPM 2.5" HDD (ST1000LM049-2GH172), 128GB Toshiba PCIe x2 M.2 SSD (KBG30ZMV128G) gone cooking externally Monitor: 1080p 126Hz IPS G-sync

 

Desktop benching:

Cinebench R15 Single thread:168 Multi-thread: 833 

SuperPi (v1.5 from Techpowerup, PI value output) 16K: 0.100s 1M: 8.255s 32M: 7m 45.93s

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3 minutes ago, Jurrunio said:

get a backplate replacement to hide the green PCB?

Do I DIY it or can I buy backplates online? think the PCB didn’t match a lot of the measurements for other cards.

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get cablemod Cables to fresh up the Cables.

 

somehow get a silver Vega card in there. (heh, like you ever find those these days)

 

get a backplate for the GPU

optional, get a different GPU and sell the one you have.

 

insert photoes of your favorite Waifu or Husbando. preffereably glass stickers or place it on hardware.

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It would look better without all that glaring bright white light in there highlighting all the bare areas and ugly PCB.  Lighting is to accent, not reveal.

Emma : i9 9900K 5.1Ghz - Gigabyte AORUS 1080Ti - Gigabyte AORUS Z370 Gaming 5 - G. Skill Ripjaws V 32GB 3200Mhz - 750 EVO 512GB + 2x 860 EVO 1TB (RAID 0) - EVGA SuperNova 650 P2 - Thermaltake Water 3.0 Ultimate 360mm - Fractal Design Define R6 - AOC AGON 35" 3440x1440 100Hz - Mackie CR5BT - Corsair Virtuoso SE - Logitech G910, G502 - Cooler Master Universal Graphics Card Holder

 

Plex : Ryzen 5 1600 - Gigabyte B450M-DS3H - G. Skill Ripjaws V 16GB 2400Mhz - MSI 1050Ti 4GB - 840 EVO 256GB + Toshiba P300 3TB - TP-Link AC1900 PCIe Wifi - Cooler Master MasterWatt Lite 500 - Antec Nine Hundred - Samsung 27" + Dell 24" 

 

Raven:  Intel i3 10100F - ASRock H410M-HDV - G. Skill Ripjaws V 16GB 2666Mhz - MSI 1050Ti 4GB - Inland 256GB SSD + Toshiba 2TB HDD - TP-Link AC600 USB Wifi - Gigabyte GP-P450B PSU -  Cooler Master MasterBox Q300L -  Spectre 24" 

 

Other Tech:

- Ubiquiti Amplifi HD mesh wifi

- 2021 Volvo S60 Recharge T8 Polestar Engineered - 415hp/495tq 2.0L 4cyl. turbocharged, supercharged and electrified.

Lenovo 720S Touch 15.6" - i7 7700HQ, 16GB RAM, 512GB NVMe SSD, 1050Ti, 4K touchscreen

MSI GF62 - i7 7700HQ, 16GB 2400 MHz RAM, 256GB NVMe SSD + 1TB 7200rpm HDD, 1050Ti

 

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5 minutes ago, _d0nut said:

Do I DIY it or can I buy backplates online? think the PCB didn’t match a lot of the measurements for other cards.

arent these things usually on reference PCBs?

 

Or you can just get a piece of white acrylic and cut it into shape yourself.

CPU: i7-2600K 4751MHz 1.44V (software) --> 1.47V at the back of the socket Motherboard: Asrock Z77 Extreme4 (BCLK: 103.3MHz) CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-D15 RAM: Adata XPG 2x8GB DDR3 (XMP: 2133MHz 10-11-11-30 CR2, custom: 2203MHz 10-11-10-26 CR1 tRFC:230 tREFI:14000) GPU: Asus GTX 1070 Dual (Super Jetstream vbios, +70(2025-2088MHz)/+400(8.8Gbps)) SSD: Samsung 840 Pro 256GB (main boot drive), Transcend SSD370 128GB PSU: Seasonic X-660 80+ Gold Case: Antec P110 Silent, 5 intakes 1 exhaust Monitor: AOC G2460PF 1080p 144Hz (150Hz max w/ DP, 121Hz max w/ HDMI) TN panel Keyboard: Logitech G610 Orion (Cherry MX Blue) with SteelSeries Apex M260 keycaps Mouse: BenQ Zowie FK1

 

Model: HP Omen 17 17-an110ca CPU: i7-8750H (0.125V core & cache, 50mV SA undervolt) GPU: GTX 1060 6GB Mobile (+80/+450, 1650MHz~1750MHz 0.78V~0.85V) RAM: 8+8GB DDR4-2400 18-17-17-39 2T Storage: 1TB HP EX920 PCIe x4 M.2 SSD + 1TB Seagate 7200RPM 2.5" HDD (ST1000LM049-2GH172), 128GB Toshiba PCIe x2 M.2 SSD (KBG30ZMV128G) gone cooking externally Monitor: 1080p 126Hz IPS G-sync

 

Desktop benching:

Cinebench R15 Single thread:168 Multi-thread: 833 

SuperPi (v1.5 from Techpowerup, PI value output) 16K: 0.100s 1M: 8.255s 32M: 7m 45.93s

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5 minutes ago, jstudrawa said:

It would look better without all that glaring bright white light in there highlighting all the bare areas and ugly PCB.  Lighting is to accent, not reveal.

what do you suggest to put the lighting asz? maybe a darker colour?

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3 minutes ago, Jurrunio said:

arent these things usually on reference PCBs?

It's the same shroud as an MSI AERO 1070, so I assume the PCB is the same size too. Didn't match reference PCB sizing. Think its 3mm skinnier.(width wise). I could go out and get some acrylic and cutting materials, but how exactly would I attach it onto the back and fasten it? My school has a workshop with these items, I could probably sneak in and take some or get a friend to do it for me.

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Just now, _d0nut said:

what do you suggest to put the lighting asz? maybe a darker colour?

Yes, a darker color or dim them if possible.  It looks like the inside of a science lab or something in there :)

 

 

Emma : i9 9900K 5.1Ghz - Gigabyte AORUS 1080Ti - Gigabyte AORUS Z370 Gaming 5 - G. Skill Ripjaws V 32GB 3200Mhz - 750 EVO 512GB + 2x 860 EVO 1TB (RAID 0) - EVGA SuperNova 650 P2 - Thermaltake Water 3.0 Ultimate 360mm - Fractal Design Define R6 - AOC AGON 35" 3440x1440 100Hz - Mackie CR5BT - Corsair Virtuoso SE - Logitech G910, G502 - Cooler Master Universal Graphics Card Holder

 

Plex : Ryzen 5 1600 - Gigabyte B450M-DS3H - G. Skill Ripjaws V 16GB 2400Mhz - MSI 1050Ti 4GB - 840 EVO 256GB + Toshiba P300 3TB - TP-Link AC1900 PCIe Wifi - Cooler Master MasterWatt Lite 500 - Antec Nine Hundred - Samsung 27" + Dell 24" 

 

Raven:  Intel i3 10100F - ASRock H410M-HDV - G. Skill Ripjaws V 16GB 2666Mhz - MSI 1050Ti 4GB - Inland 256GB SSD + Toshiba 2TB HDD - TP-Link AC600 USB Wifi - Gigabyte GP-P450B PSU -  Cooler Master MasterBox Q300L -  Spectre 24" 

 

Other Tech:

- Ubiquiti Amplifi HD mesh wifi

- 2021 Volvo S60 Recharge T8 Polestar Engineered - 415hp/495tq 2.0L 4cyl. turbocharged, supercharged and electrified.

Lenovo 720S Touch 15.6" - i7 7700HQ, 16GB RAM, 512GB NVMe SSD, 1050Ti, 4K touchscreen

MSI GF62 - i7 7700HQ, 16GB 2400 MHz RAM, 256GB NVMe SSD + 1TB 7200rpm HDD, 1050Ti

 

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12 minutes ago, GoldenLag said:

get cablemod Cables to fresh up the Cables.

Saving up for a kit now, can't decide on whether to get classic modmesh/modflex, or pro modmesh. Don't know if I should get sleeved SATA data cables too.

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Just now, jstudrawa said:

Yes, a darker color or dim them if possible.  It looks like the inside of a science lab or something in there :)

 

 

Gimme a sec, I'll go through a few darker colours and see if it's nice. Thought white lights would go well with a white case.

 

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3 minutes ago, _d0nut said:

It's the same shroud as an MSI AERO 1070, so I assume the PCB is the same size too. Didn't match reference PCB sizing. Think its 3mm skinnier.(width wise). I could go out and get some acrylic and cutting materials, but how exactly would I attach it onto the back and fasten it? My school has a workshop with these items, I could probably sneak in and take some or get a friend to do it for me.

fasten it? No plans for that, I'd just put it on top of the PCB to cover it up. What I cannot see is not a problem :P

 

that said Google did find a few options for backplates that work with the MSI Aero 1070, so maybe that's the way to go?

CPU: i7-2600K 4751MHz 1.44V (software) --> 1.47V at the back of the socket Motherboard: Asrock Z77 Extreme4 (BCLK: 103.3MHz) CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-D15 RAM: Adata XPG 2x8GB DDR3 (XMP: 2133MHz 10-11-11-30 CR2, custom: 2203MHz 10-11-10-26 CR1 tRFC:230 tREFI:14000) GPU: Asus GTX 1070 Dual (Super Jetstream vbios, +70(2025-2088MHz)/+400(8.8Gbps)) SSD: Samsung 840 Pro 256GB (main boot drive), Transcend SSD370 128GB PSU: Seasonic X-660 80+ Gold Case: Antec P110 Silent, 5 intakes 1 exhaust Monitor: AOC G2460PF 1080p 144Hz (150Hz max w/ DP, 121Hz max w/ HDMI) TN panel Keyboard: Logitech G610 Orion (Cherry MX Blue) with SteelSeries Apex M260 keycaps Mouse: BenQ Zowie FK1

 

Model: HP Omen 17 17-an110ca CPU: i7-8750H (0.125V core & cache, 50mV SA undervolt) GPU: GTX 1060 6GB Mobile (+80/+450, 1650MHz~1750MHz 0.78V~0.85V) RAM: 8+8GB DDR4-2400 18-17-17-39 2T Storage: 1TB HP EX920 PCIe x4 M.2 SSD + 1TB Seagate 7200RPM 2.5" HDD (ST1000LM049-2GH172), 128GB Toshiba PCIe x2 M.2 SSD (KBG30ZMV128G) gone cooking externally Monitor: 1080p 126Hz IPS G-sync

 

Desktop benching:

Cinebench R15 Single thread:168 Multi-thread: 833 

SuperPi (v1.5 from Techpowerup, PI value output) 16K: 0.100s 1M: 8.255s 32M: 7m 45.93s

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3 minutes ago, jstudrawa said:

Yes, a darker color or dim them if possible.  It looks like the inside of a science lab or something in there :)

 

 

I tried Blue+ white, green+ white and full dark green, does this look nicer or should I choose a different cooler?

74A4065E-A6C3-466F-872D-649138EA612C.jpeg

image.jpg

D594D575-3200-4085-93EC-32AFBAAE8BD8.jpeg

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26 minutes ago, _d0nut said:

G.Skill - Trident Z RGB 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3200 Memory

When you focus only on aesthetics and gets a 3200mhz memory because of RGB on a motheboard that only supports 2666mhz memory.

Personal Desktop":

CPU: Intel Core i7 8700 @4.45ghz |~| Cooling: Cooler Master Hyper 212X |~| MOBO: Gigabyte Z370M D3H mATX|~| RAM: 16gb DDR4 3333mhzCL16 G.Skill Trident Z |~| GPU: nVidia Founders Edition GTX 1080 Ti |~| PSU: Corsair TX650M 80Plus Gold |~| Boot:  SSD WD Green M.2 2280 240GB |~| Storage: 1x3TB HDD 7200rpm Seagate Barracuda + SanDisk Ultra 3D 1TB |~| Case: Fractal Design Meshify C Mini |~| Display: Toshiba UL7A 4K/60hz |~| OS: Windows 10 Pro.

Luna, the temporary Desktop:

CPU: Intel Core i7 10700KF @ 5.0Ghz (5.1Ghz 4-core) |~| Cooling: bq! Dark Rock 4 Pro |~| MOBO: Gigabyte Z490 UD |~| RAM: 32G Kingston HyperX @ 2666Mhz CL13 |~| GPU: AMD Radeon RX 6800 (Reference) |~| PSU: Corsair HX1000 80+ Platinum |~| Windows Boot Drive: 2x 512GB (1TB total) Plextor SATA SSD (RAID0 volume) |~| Linux Boot Drive: 500GB Kingston A2000 |~| Storage: 4TB WD Black HDD |~| Case: Cooler Master Silencio S600 |~| Display 1 (leftmost): Eizo (unknown model) 1920x1080 IPS @ 60Hz|~| Display 2 (center): BenQ ZOWIE XL2540 1920x1080 TN @ 240Hz |~| Display 3 (rightmost): Wacom Cintiq Pro 24 3840x2160 IPS @ 60Hz 10-bit |~| OS: Windows 10 Pro (games / art) + Linux (distro: NixOS; programming and daily driver)
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1 hour ago, Princess Cadence said:

When you focus only on aesthetics and gets a 3200mhz memory because of RGB on a motheboard that only supports 2666mhz memory.

I bought a 3200mhz kit because I plan on switching to ryzen.. I bought the RAM quite a while back when I didn't know for sure what motherboard I'd be using. Don't have to be so rude, brighten up a little. ?

 

EDIT: By the way, G.Skill does sell RGB 2666Mhz RAM too. Not just 3200Mhz.

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1 hour ago, GoldenLag said:

get cablemod Cables to fresh up the Cables.

 

somehow get a silver Vega card in there. (heh, like you ever find those these days)

 

get a backplate for the GPU

optional, get a different GPU and sell the one you have.

 

insert photoes of your favorite Waifu or Husbando. preffereably glass stickers or place it on hardware.

Newegg has the Vega 64s for a decent price (cheaper than a new 1080). I just picked one up. The backplate is all aluminum to and looks great if you don't have a vertical mount, might get rid of mine, honestly. 

 

20190107_093721.thumb.jpg.68c2ab90fc7b09ca8e3a80f1d52e3934.jpg

Ryzen 3800X + MEG ACE w/ Radeon VII + 3733 c14 Trident Z RGB in a Custom Loop powered by Seasonic Prime Ultra Titanium
PSU Tier List | Motherboard Tier List | My Build

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11 minutes ago, tomswife said:

Newegg has the Vega 64s for a decent price (cheaper than a new 1080). I just picked one up. The backplate is all aluminum to and looks great if you don't have a vertical mount, might get rid of mine, honestly. 

 

20190107_093721.thumb.jpg.68c2ab90fc7b09ca8e3a80f1d52e3934.jpg

I'm running that 1070 at 1440p 144hz, I can't really take advantage of the 144Hz in certain games. I'll probably upgrade to a 1080-1080Ti level card. I'll look at my options once AMD announces Navi.

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Just now, _d0nut said:

I'm running that 1070 at 1440p 144hz, I can't really take advantage of the 144Hz in certain games. I'll probably upgrade to a 1080-1080Ti level card. I'll look at my options once AMD announces Navi.

Yea, that's your best option. I just didn't want to wait lol. I almost bought a used 1080 ti but really wanted something new with guaranteed warranty. 

Ryzen 3800X + MEG ACE w/ Radeon VII + 3733 c14 Trident Z RGB in a Custom Loop powered by Seasonic Prime Ultra Titanium
PSU Tier List | Motherboard Tier List | My Build

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Just now, tomswife said:

Yea, that's your best option. I just didn't want to wait lol. I almost bought a used 1080 ti but really wanted something new with guaranteed warranty. 

I wanna look at my options, I probably need to save up for close to a year to get anywhere near 1080ti pricing, even for used. Worst case scenario if I'm really broke I'll sell this GPU and get an MSI GTX 1070Ti Titanium.(Probably have to spend double of what I sold the GPU for though)

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3 minutes ago, tomswife said:

Yea, that's your best option. I just didn't want to wait lol. I almost bought a used 1080 ti but really wanted something new with guaranteed warranty. 

Also, do you find my PC looks a little empty, or is it just me?

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3 hours ago, _d0nut said:

Also, do you find my PC looks a little empty, or is it just me?

I mean it does, but that's the case you're using, honestly. Not much you can do unless you added some HDD cages lol. Water cooling would help and take up the rest of that space with a reservoir and pump, but then you're looking at $200-400 depending on quality of parts. Better to just upgrade parts at that price, IMO. You can get an AIO like I have, but you can't mount it in the front like I have mine but it'll still help with taking up room, I guess. You should have gotten something smaller, or shorter, like the Meshify C. The Meshify C is one of the best cases that come shorter than most. Like most people aren't doing water cooling or using 20 HDDS so I'm not sure why cases are so large. I would have went with a smaller build but the damn MOBOs for smaller builds suck compared to full ATX. Even my 3 fan Strix card wasn't that long, just tad bit longer than the silver one you see in the pic.

 

I literally mounted my AIO in the front for this exact reason, with it on the top, it just looks dumb to have all that wasted space in the front, like almost pointless. Using a rad in the front isn't the best idea since the heat will dissipate into the case, but I don't care, it's a 360 rad and my case is full of fans so it's not hindering performance one bit.

 

Some people put like an action figure/plastic toy/doll from there favorite game/movie/cartoon in the front or on the GPU.

 

https://pcpartpicker.com/b/z9QZxr

241985.48cbc656e3a2eff82567cbb6ab3ae37d_1600.thumb.jpg.4cf966e24d01962aff492e255c92e6bd.jpg

 

https://pcpartpicker.com/b/z9QZxr

242879.6bb5ae51d6788ae296fc0412141d9f6a_1600.thumb.jpg.e1a65f0c60dc3b2c19312a6b3c05a95f.jpg

Ryzen 3800X + MEG ACE w/ Radeon VII + 3733 c14 Trident Z RGB in a Custom Loop powered by Seasonic Prime Ultra Titanium
PSU Tier List | Motherboard Tier List | My Build

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Just looked at your pics a little more and what I would do, although not super cheap, is return the cpu cooler. Get an AIO, mount it on the side in a push/pull config without the fans on the backside where you have them now and add fans to the bottom of the case.

 

The AIO on the side with fans on both sides of it will definitely help. You don't have to do push/pull, even just the rad and fans on the inside will help help a lot.

 

Cheapest thing you can is just move your fans to inside the case instead of having them in the back.

 

EDIT:

 

Check out:

 

https://pcpartpicker.com/b/ThJ8TW

 

242457.46b42548b0984e763d0278aa2f7f07a7.1600.jpg

 

Your fans will look better in the front than theirs.

 

Ryzen 3800X + MEG ACE w/ Radeon VII + 3733 c14 Trident Z RGB in a Custom Loop powered by Seasonic Prime Ultra Titanium
PSU Tier List | Motherboard Tier List | My Build

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well idk what kinda of budget were talking about but i would suggest the following in order of price from least to most expensive:

 

get a backplate for the gpu. ek has one that should fit your card for example

 

get a sheet of white or off-white acrylic preferably matching your case color and cut out only the necessary holes for the 3 back fans so it covers all that black of the fans

 

get an AIO and mount it in the front/back so it doesnt look so empty

 

get a cable mods kit an really clean up every cable 

 

full on watercool that sucker to fill up the case

"I know its stupidly overdone and unreasonably unneccesary but wouldnt it be awesome if ..."

 

CPU: Ryzen 5600G (watercooled) Cooling: 2x XSPC TX240  MB: Gigabyte B550i  RAM: 32GB 3600Mhz Corsair LPX GPU: MSI GTX1080 Ti Aero @ 2 GHz (watercooled)  DISPLAY: LG 32GN600-B SSD(OS): Samsung 960 EVO 250GB SSD(Games): Corsair MP510 960GB SSD(Applikations): Samsung 850 EVO 500GB  HDD(Scratch): WD Blue 500GB HDD(Downloads): WD Blue 320GB  PSU: Corsair SF750 Case: Hyte Revolt 3 Mouse: Logitech MX Master Keyboard: Logitech G513 Carbon

 

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11 hours ago, tomswife said:

Get an AIO

Already plan to do that. I'm looking at the NZXT Kraken X72/Corsair H150i Pro RGB. I love the Kraken's infinity mirror, but I've heard stories of NZXT refusing to reimburse people even though their AIO had leaked and damaged their GPU. Heard good things about Corsair though.

11 hours ago, tomswife said:

add fans to the bottom of the case.

Ok, I would probably do that too. I'm just a student who relies on my parents for money, and they are typical asian parents, where they won't spend a single cent on anything I don't need. I'd have to save up for probably close to a year until I can do everything that's suggested(get an AIO, add three fans on the bottom, change the GPU)

11 hours ago, tomswife said:

Your fans will look better in the front than theirs.

Basically my cable management in the back is horrendous. Because of how deep the backportion of the case was(it fits a PSU sitting sideways), it was a little hard to tie down cables to the tiedown points. There was a panel(Similar to those found on the NZXT H700/H500 on the front covering the holes where the cables came out off) in the back, so I just used it to smash the cables down and it was fine. If I had to remove the fans and screw them back on where they are in the main portion of the case, I'd have to unplug a lot of cables. I'd probably do that once I manage to get some CableMod cables.

10 hours ago, cluelessgenius said:

well idk what kinda of budget were talking about but i would suggest the following in order of price from least to most expensive:

 

get a backplate for the gpu. ek has one that should fit your card for example

 

get a sheet of white or off-white acrylic preferably matching your case color and cut out only the necessary holes for the 3 back fans so it covers all that black of the fans

 

get an AIO and mount it in the front/back so it doesnt look so empty

 

get a cable mods kit an really clean up every cable 

 

full on watercool that sucker to fill up the case

-Basically, I'm a student so for anything I'd have to order online, I'd have to ask my mum to order it for me then pay her back. Problem is she underestimates how hard I save my money, so if I go up to her and say 'can you help me buy ________, I'll pay you back' she would start freaking out because I have a few hundred dollars, and start questioning me on where I got it from etc. I'm already risking a lot by asking her to buy cablemod cables and paying her back, although she wouldn't be extremely skeptical because I can buy that on Amazon and that's the only e-retailer she trusts. That's why I stick to buying things from local stores, and those stores don't sell them. I'd probably have to live with the green PCB until I can afford a new GPU, praying that the RX 3080 leaks are true. 

 

-I don't have anywhere to buy matte acrylic that is convenient for me. Shiny acrylic would be pretty ugly and I don't have the materials to sand it down so it's not glossy. I'd probably do this if I have nothing better to do though.

 

-Yeah, planning on doing that already, looking at an NZXT Kraken X72/Corsair H150i Pro

 

-Same with the AIO, saving up for a cablemod white kit now. Not sure whether to get Classic ModMesh, Classic ModFlex or Pro ModMesh though.

 

-Parts needed for open loops are super super expensive here, and I have no experience with that so I'm pretty uncomfortable with that

 

 

 

 

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