Jump to content

Undervolt Killed my 2700X

 

While folding on my 2700X on a Gigabyte x470 AORUS Gaming 5 I noticed in HWMonitor that one of the MoBo temp sensors is reaching 85+ celsius, so I got to BIOS and tinkered with voltage and set it to normal instead of auto, I succeeded the sensor now reads 75 so I tried lowering the VDDP further (I went to straight to negative 0.300v) and it wouldn't boot just a black screen for a few minutes.
I tried rebooting but still nothing so I tested all components single stick of RAM, no RAM, switched the GPU attempted to clear BIOS but no avail, Then I noticed on the MoBo that CPU led is lit (in a bad way LoL) my heart sank so I tried my CPU on two other MoBo's (one is an A320 and a X370 both support 2700X with latest BIOS updates) but it was conformed my beloved 2700X is DEAD.
So as JonTron said it "I have several questions" two to be precise
1\ Did any one killed his\her CPU by undervolting before?
2\ Can I RMA my CPU and/or MoBo? (I followed the instruction on how to clear the bios but am scared to test the MoBo with another with it)

Edited by Game_Hustla
Spelling correction
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

Undervolting don't break stuff, it's something else. The 2700X being faulty from the factory for example.

CPU: i7-2600K 4751MHz 1.44V (software) --> 1.47V at the back of the socket Motherboard: Asrock Z77 Extreme4 (BCLK: 103.3MHz) CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-D15 RAM: Adata XPG 2x8GB DDR3 (XMP: 2133MHz 10-11-11-30 CR2, custom: 2203MHz 10-11-10-26 CR1 tRFC:230 tREFI:14000) GPU: Asus GTX 1070 Dual (Super Jetstream vbios, +70(2025-2088MHz)/+400(8.8Gbps)) SSD: Samsung 840 Pro 256GB (main boot drive), Transcend SSD370 128GB PSU: Seasonic X-660 80+ Gold Case: Antec P110 Silent, 5 intakes 1 exhaust Monitor: AOC G2460PF 1080p 144Hz (150Hz max w/ DP, 121Hz max w/ HDMI) TN panel Keyboard: Logitech G610 Orion (Cherry MX Blue) with SteelSeries Apex M260 keycaps Mouse: BenQ Zowie FK1

 

Model: HP Omen 17 17-an110ca CPU: i7-8750H (0.125V core & cache, 50mV SA undervolt) GPU: GTX 1060 6GB Mobile (+80/+450, 1650MHz~1750MHz 0.78V~0.85V) RAM: 8+8GB DDR4-2400 18-17-17-39 2T Storage: HP EX920 1TB PCIe x4 M.2 SSD + Crucial MX500 1TB 2.5" SATA SSD, 128GB Toshiba PCIe x2 M.2 SSD (KBG30ZMV128G) gone cooking externally, 1TB Seagate 7200RPM 2.5" HDD (ST1000LM049-2GH172) left outside Monitor: 1080p 126Hz IPS G-sync

 

Desktop benching:

Cinebench R15 Single thread:168 Multi-thread: 833 

SuperPi (v1.5 from Techpowerup, PI value output) 16K: 0.100s 1M: 8.255s 32M: 7m 45.93s

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

...all that and you didn't reset CMOS?

 

i have never heard of an undervolt killing silicon.

[FS][US] Corsair H115i 280mm AIO-AMD $60+shipping

 

 

System specs:
Asus Prime X370 Pro - Custom EKWB CPU/GPU 2x360 1x240 soft loop - Ryzen 1700X - Corsair Vengeance RGB 2x16GB - Plextor 512 NVMe + 2TB SU800 - EVGA GTX1080ti - LianLi PC11 Dynamic
 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

48 minutes ago, Game_Hustla said:

While folding on my 2700X on a Gigabyte x470 AORUS Gaming 5 I noticed HWMonitor the one of the MoBo temp sensors is reaching 85+ celsius

That measurement was most likely for the VRM, the DC-DC converter that converts 12v into the voltage the processor wants (1.42v max)

 

The components in that circuit are rated for maximum 150 degrees Celsius but the motherboard uses a heatsink that's big enough to keep the temperatures in that area below around 100 degrees Celsius. Above 100-110 degrees Celsius, over long periods of time as in weeks or months, problems with the printed circuit board can occur in that area so most motherboard manufacturers will put some protections and mechanism to keep the temperature below 100 degrees celsius.

At over 100 degrees, your motherboard's BIOS would probably start to throttle down the CPU (force it to reduce the frequency of some cores), in order to reduce the load on the VRM and therefore giving the VRM time to reduce its temperature.

 

There's not much benefit to keep the temperature really low, so 85 degrees Celsius for your motherboard was perfectly fine temperature, if that was for your VRM.

 

Unplug your pc, remove bios battery, wait a few seconds.. put it back and plug the pc.. Go in bios and set the defaults.

Should start.

 

I may be wrong, but I think undervolting can affect the memory controller part of the chip, or the pci-e controller inside the chip, so that could make the system not boot if those don't initialize.

I sincerely doubt you killed the processor itself.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

severely doubt you killed anything by undervolting, electrical components dont work like that. 

 

And as stated above, all that work and you didnt reset the cmos? Try that first.

I refuse to read threads whose author does not know how to remove the caps lock! 

— Grumpy old man

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks for the replies as I stated I tried to clear the bios it was sitting without a battery and disconnected from anything not even USB devices for several hours but the CPU led was still lit also I tested the CPU with 2 other boards an A320 and a X370 both BIOS are updated to the latest but still black screen

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

Undervolting is so safe that the first step in testing components in historical computing equipment (which is shockingly rare and irreplaceable) is to connect them to a variable power supply and slowly raise the voltage while watching the output to see if you like it or not.

There is only one similar case that I can find on google, which happened with a Haswell processor. The real test here would be installing a known working processor into the motherboard you were undervolting with. If you can get into BIOS then, then you can be relatively sure that the processor is the problem.

I guess the next question is: Are you absolutely certain that the other motherboards are good and that they will actually boot with the 2700x? As in, have you tried using your 2700x with those motherboards before, and when is the last time those motherboards successfully booted?

 

ENCRYPTION IS NOT A CRIME

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, straight_stewie said:

I guess the next question is: Are you absolutely certain that the other motherboards are good and that they will actually boot with the 2700x? As in, have you tried using your 2700x with those motherboards before, and when is the last time those motherboards successfully booted?

 

the A320 board is a working PC with 1600 and a GTX 1060 on it while the X370 also has a 1600 was tested to conform that it is working when purchased but not sure of it's history

Edited by Game_Hustla
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

My first Ryzen build was also with a Gigabyte x470 Aorus Gaming 5 and belive me that mobo is a nightmare. When I finished building my PC everything was working perfectly. After exactly one week it stopped POSTing. If I remember correctly the CPU diagnose led was red and the DRAM led was flashing green. I returned all the parts (mobo, cpu, ram) and after two weeks the online store reached out to me that they concluded the CPU was broken and they replaced it. After that I thought it was all over so I built my PC again, but EXACTLY after a week the same thing happened. I returned everything and decided I would buy at a different store. After a while I bought the same RAM and CPU but with an Asus B450-F ROG Strix. Haven't had any issues since then. You should RMA your CPU and mobo. That board is just cursed.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

On 1/10/2019 at 3:36 PM, KacperNoe said:

My first Ryzen build was also with a Gigabyte x470 Aorus Gaming 5 and belive me that mobo is a nightmare. When I finished building my PC everything was working perfectly. After exactly one week it stopped POSTing. If I remember correctly the CPU diagnose led was red and the DRAM led was flashing green. I returned all the parts (mobo, cpu, ram) and after two weeks the online store reached out to me that they concluded the CPU was broken and they replaced it. After that I thought it was all over so I built my PC again, but EXACTLY after a week the same thing happened. I returned everything and decided I would buy at a different store. After a while I bought the same RAM and CPU but with an Asus B450-F ROG Strix. Haven't had any issues since then. You should RMA your CPU and mobo. That board is just cursed.

What was your CPU model? also did you bought from amazon or another retailer?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

On 1/11/2019 at 8:16 PM, Game_Hustla said:

What was your CPU model? also did you bought from amazon or another retailer?

I had a Ryzen 5 2600x. It was a polish retailer but I heard the problem was worldwide (although I've seen alot of reviewers using that board without any problems). If the motherboard doesn't POST you should be able to return it (with the CPU).

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

33 minutes ago, KacperNoe said:

I had a Ryzen 5 2600x. It was a polish retailer but I heard the problem was worldwide (although I've seen alot of reviewers using that board without any problems). If the motherboard doesn't POST you should be able to return it (with the CPU).

Well crap I had a glimpse of hope that my MoBo might have problems with 8c/16t or higher CPUs also another oopsie that is I bought my mobo from amazon on May 2018 and I "live" in KSA

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • 3 months later...

Welp I sent my CPU back to AyyyMD and they replaced it seems it did die

WhatsApp Image 2019-05-06 at 6.55.36 PM.jpeg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

most CPU RMAs end with a replacement regardless. That's been my experience.

[FS][US] Corsair H115i 280mm AIO-AMD $60+shipping

 

 

System specs:
Asus Prime X370 Pro - Custom EKWB CPU/GPU 2x360 1x240 soft loop - Ryzen 1700X - Corsair Vengeance RGB 2x16GB - Plextor 512 NVMe + 2TB SU800 - EVGA GTX1080ti - LianLi PC11 Dynamic
 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

2 minutes ago, knightslugger said:

most CPU RMAs end with a replacement regardless. That's been my experience.

Indeed, sometimes it's just faster and cheaper replace the CPU asap than go through validation whether or not is malfunctioning, RMA'ing CPUs aren't that common either so no big deal.

 

Would be interesting if OP mentioned whether he already tried it out or not, would be lel if the issue is the motherboard or something else for instance.

Personal Desktop":

CPU: Intel Core i7 10700K @5ghz |~| Cooling: bq! Dark Rock Pro 4 |~| MOBO: Gigabyte Z490UD ATX|~| RAM: 16gb DDR4 3333mhzCL16 G.Skill Trident Z |~| GPU: RX 6900XT Sapphire Nitro+ |~| PSU: Corsair TX650M 80Plus Gold |~| Boot:  SSD WD Green M.2 2280 240GB |~| Storage: 1x3TB HDD 7200rpm Seagate Barracuda + SanDisk Ultra 3D 1TB |~| Case: Fractal Design Meshify C Mini |~| Display: Toshiba UL7A 4K/60hz |~| OS: Windows 10 Pro.

Luna, the temporary Desktop:

CPU: AMD R9 7950XT  |~| Cooling: bq! Dark Rock 4 Pro |~| MOBO: Gigabyte Aorus Master |~| RAM: 32G Kingston HyperX |~| GPU: AMD Radeon RX 7900XTX (Reference) |~| PSU: Corsair HX1000 80+ Platinum |~| Windows Boot Drive: 2x 512GB (1TB total) Plextor SATA SSD (RAID0 volume) |~| Linux Boot Drive: 500GB Kingston A2000 |~| Storage: 4TB WD Black HDD |~| Case: Cooler Master Silencio S600 |~| Display 1 (leftmost): Eizo (unknown model) 1920x1080 IPS @ 60Hz|~| Display 2 (center): BenQ ZOWIE XL2540 1920x1080 TN @ 240Hz |~| Display 3 (rightmost): Wacom Cintiq Pro 24 3840x2160 IPS @ 60Hz 10-bit |~| OS: Windows 10 Pro (games / art) + Linux (distro: NixOS; programming and daily driver)
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, Princess Luna said:

Indeed, sometimes it's just faster and cheaper replace the CPU asap than go through validation whether or not is malfunctioning, RMA'ing CPUs aren't that common either so no big deal.

 

Would be interesting if OP mentioned whether he already tried it out or not, would be lel if the issue is the motherboard or something else for instance.

I'm selling my old mobo and getting an AsRock X470 Taichi, as the Gigabyte mobo only has 4 phases VRMs only so the 2700X is just too much for it

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×