failblox

Here you go:
 
FOR %F IN ("%SystemRoot%\servicing\Packages\Microsoft-Windows-GroupPolicy-ClientTools-Package~*.mum") DO (DISM /Online /NoRestart /Add-Package:"%F")
FOR %F IN ("%SystemRoot%\servicing\Packages\Microsoft-Windows-GroupPolicy-ClientExtensions-Package~*.mum") DO (DISM /Online /NoRestart /Add-Package:"%F")

Never heard of Super Flower, but I know that Seasonic has pretty legendary quality. If it's on that list on PCMR though it should be fine. If I were you though I'd go for the Seasonic 850W one cause Titans suck up a ton of power and it's nice to have that extra headroom. 650W might be a bit tight with your specs.
 
Edit: Just searched up the Titan's TDP and it's ~250W so actually you might be fine going for the 650W. Personally, I'd like the extra headroom though.

I also had the problem, that Origin dosen't want to download the games on a Network Share. After lots of trying i found the reson why. Origin has a service called "Origin Client Service" which is required to download a Game. This service is executed under the SYSTEM user account, which doesn't know of your Network Share mappings. The easiest way to solve this is to disable the service. Now Origin cannot start the service and runs the Executable as Administrator of your User. To allow the Programs, which run as administrator, to see the Network Share you have to follow these instructions: https://technet.microsoft.com/de-de/library/ee844140(v=ws.10).aspx. You culd also map the Network Share in  the SYSTEM user but this is generally not a good idea, because then the SYSTEM user could be atacked throu that share. Also running the service under your user has the drawback that origin would not work in multi-user environments. My solution has the drawback that Origin prompts you with an UAC for the first download after Origin started. 
 
Here the detailed steps to realize my solution: 
1. type services.msc in to the Search field and open Services
2. Search for "Origin Client Host" in the list and duble click it
3. set the Startup type to disabled
4. Click OK and close the Services window
5. type regedit in to the search field and open the entry regedit
6. Locate and then right-click the registry subkey HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SOFTWARE\Microsoft\Windows\CurrentVersion\Policies\System.
7. Point to New, and then click DWORD Value.
8. Type EnableLinkedConnections, and then press ENTER.
9. Right-click EnableLinkedConnections, and then click Modify.
10. In the Value data box, type 1, and then click OK.
11. Exit Registry Editor, and then restart the computer.
12. Now Origin should be able to to download to the set installation-path even if it is a network share

I'll check the prices in CAD.

The Pentium I chose supports ECC and is cheaper than any Xeon I could find.

just updating pcs it would def be useless as every file gets equal reads by the backup software and every write needs to end up on the mechanical disks which no amount of cache can speed up.

i have some older 7200rpm WD RE drives. in bencharks they are the same speed as my new WD RED 5400rpm drives. Same amount of cache. I tested 3 WD red drives in various raid configurations, 2 drives in raid0 just floats around the gigabit limit; three drives are completely bottlenecked by gigabit. This was after the drives cache was exhausted and transfering to /dev/null and again from /dev/zero. I never tested ZFS i was using mdadm for raid.

Is it doing a hard restart (your computer just cuts to a black screen like you ripped the power out), or does it restart like when doing a windows update (your computer shows "Restarting")?

Just wanted to confirm the RAM model for you as there is some ValueRAM that is ECC and some that is not.  I pulled up the Kingston Memory Finder and confirmed compatibility with your board for KVR21E15D8/16 (16GB DDR4 2133Mhz ECC).  It's on sale at Newegg this weekend for $194.99 ($5 less than posted above)

You can download the drivers from HP's website. 
When you do the setup just skip the odd stuff. I know that HP's driver package is a bit bloated but it is designed to cover all their printer products in one package.
 
http://support.hp.com/us-en/drivers
Select the proper printer and you should find something like this;

 
The one you are probably going to want (at least for the listed printer) is the first one. It wont be bloated and has just the print drivers and no extra software.

Personally I have a low opinion, the ink jets are quite wasteful of ink. As for the laser jets I have no experience with but I have heard mixed reviews.
 
If I had to say, HP is a bit more expensive but will last a good deal number of years with low maintenance. Brother is a cheaper alternative but requires more maintenance to achieve the same performance as HP.
 
Your usage will determine mileage of course but I would definitely suggest HP over Brother any day but Brother is a decent alternative.
 
Hope that helps.

Probably next to nothing. Bitcoin mining on consumer CPUs and GPUs has been dead for a long time.

Probably next to nothing. Bitcoin mining on consumer CPUs and GPUs has been dead for a long time.

Probably next to nothing. Bitcoin mining on consumer CPUs and GPUs has been dead for a long time.

See if you can find a wall adapter which uses the same voltage as the wall adapter that came with your phone (usually 5V), but with less amps. Since you're looking to charge your phone slowly overnight, I'm guessing you'll want something around 1A.
 
If you have any wall adapters from older phones, that might be a good place to look first.

Did you make any backups?
 
If not, the only other idea I can think of (which I have no idea if it'll even work) is plugging the array into another working computer, configuring the SATA ports as RAID, and hoping for the best. I'm not responsible if this advice results in the loss of your data. To be honest, you really should have been keeping backups with RAID 0.

You do know that you're not going to be able to get Office on Linux right? If you've never used Linux before I recommend going with something like Ubuntu, Ubuntu GNOME, or Mint (these are just a few distros I know off the top of my head).

Yes yes yes yes yes.
They were so much more expensive when I first built my computer - and now that they've dropped in price so much, I'd pick one up for any build I do in the future.

It's extremely useful for video editing. If you've ever tried editing footage that's stored on a hard drive compared to storage on an SSD, the difference is immediately noticeable.
 
I agree with you that it's pointless for general media like movies and music though.

Yes yes yes yes yes.
They were so much more expensive when I first built my computer - and now that they've dropped in price so much, I'd pick one up for any build I do in the future.

That'll probably ground you as much as you can possibly be grounded. Honestly I wouldn't worry about static - just touch your case or power supply every once in a while, depending on what the climate is like where in live. A lot of people build their computers without an anti-static wrist/ankle strap, and it's perfectly fine.

Its all about money. Apple doesn't care as long as they get money.

If that's your dad's decision, then I don't want to interfere with that. I recommend that you respect his policy and get some sleep.

That's what they suggested I do after remoting into my PC. They said that the majority of Wi-fi issues with the pro 4 and book are related to drivers and general windows 10 issues, but in my case, none of the solutions they tested worked for very long. I'll probably take it  to a MS store since there one close by and see what they say.

"Don't forget health and safety..."

So I am managing to wake up some completely dead lithium cells by shocking them with two paralelled 120,000μF capacitors. Two of the 5 cells from a trash drill battery pack took a charge fine, the others wouldnt go over like 1.5v with a 100mA charge. After hitting them many times with the caps charged to 4.2v, they seem to be taking a charge now. The theory? When they were completely dead, they formed metal crystals inside that shorted them out, which is why my 100mA charge seemingly stopped. Hitting them with the capacitors vaporized the shorts. At least, thats the theory. Its a tried and true method with nicads, figured I had nothing to loose with these lithiums...
 
As you can see, its making its way past 2.36v, and as I type this, its now at 2.7v.

 
First off, before you guys go all health and safety on me, I do know what I am doing. For instance, the wooden platform I am charging it on and the lack of any fire extinguishers.
 
I do realize that they could all of the sudden become shorted inside again and explode, but oh well, I like fireworks.
 
@Hackentosher