Car Enthusiast Club [Now Motorcycle friendly!] - First thread to 150k! ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

[techswede]

35 minutes ago, vinyldash303 said:

Grandad is thinking about buying this. 1969 DeVille hard top two door. It had the added option of the padded vinyl roof thats split all to hell. Been in storage for 17 years. 

 

/should/ be the 7.7 L v8 and turbo 400 tranny. Drift car? Hope so. 

 

If he's up for opening a can of worms of that scale then sure. A car that's been sitting for 17 years is going to need quite a bit of work.

[vetali]

6 hours ago, warmmilk said:

If you maintain them and don't go too crazy with power, they're fine. Well as far as Evo's go, I don't know or care about other Mitsubishi's.  MZR is bullet proof be it makes nothing and a half for power... of course it's gonna be bullet proof.  And actually NC1 (06-08) engines have been known to fail even in stock form, that's why they got a pretty significant internals upgrade in '09.

 

Balance shafts seize and grenade the lower end. MZRs are incredibly simple motors as far as modern cars. I thrash the shit outta mine and it doesn't burn a drop of oil. 

 

Speaking of which, what fuel do you use in your Miata? I dumped some premium in my car because yolo and holy shit it rips now. Gotta death grip the wheel in first gear otherwise it will yank outta my hands.

 

6 hours ago, warmmilk said:

well in my case, I'm not sure what's causing the pad knockback, and that's part of the problem. I'd be able to fix it if I knew what it was

but generally it can be a few things.

The leading cause is a weak knuckle or hub that allows for flexing as you corner, so the flexing will move the rotor which pushes the pistons back into the calipers.  I guess that's not really limited to knuckle and hub, anything that will allow too much flex in that area.  I thought this was my issue for a while cause I might have messed up the knuckle a but when changing my wheel hub, but I got a new knuckle and wheel hub since then and it didn't fix my problem. After removing the old parts it was pretty obvious there was nothing wrong with them either... but I put the new stuff in just in case.

Next is if the rotor runout is too much. I'm kinda in denial about this being the problem in my case since I had knockback since new and I don't think the runout would be that much out of spec on brand new rotors. But I'm measuring this today just to make sure. 

Last thing is that it could be a bad master cylinder. But I don't think this is it cause I've been driving the car for 2 years now including track days with hard braking.  I'm pretty sure if I had a bad MC it would have reared its head at a track day... but if the rotor thing doesn't play out, a new MC is next on the list.

 

these are the only things I know of that can cause it... if anyone knows more, I'd love to hear

Rotor runout will cause a pulsating brake pedal... warped rotors. Hub runout will cause a constant vibration. Is it an aluminum knuckle or a cast knuckle?

[vetali]

2 hours ago, warmmilk said:

I checked the runout on the rotors and the rotor hats just for fun.  The left side rotor was 0.007"and the hat was 0.005".  Right side rotor was 0.005"and the hat was 0.001-0.002".  

I've been emailing Wilwood about this for a while now, they said 0.005-0.008" was acceptable, so I guess its not the rotors...  I emailed them with the results anyway, I'll see what they say

Rotors have incredibly low tolerances for runout. 

 

 

Thats stock... so for wilwood to say .005-.008 is acceptable is ridiculous. 

[8uhbbhu8]

Car meet going on literally 2 houses from me  all sorts of beautiful 30s 40s and 50s cars!!!!

[bcredeur97]

@warmmilk did you install the in-line check valve wilwood described in this article? 

 

https://nasaspeed.news/tech/brakes/pad-knock-back-what-it-is-how-it-happens-and-what-to-do-about-it/

 

Quote

Another component Wilwood has developed to minimize knock-back is an inline check valve, a residual pressure valve, which helps stop individual line pressures from bleeding back. You can install it anywhere in the brake lines, but it’s usually best at the end of the chassis hardline where the flexible brake hose attaches.

 

[8uhbbhu8]

Pic of the cars courtesy of potato phone with no OIS

[8uhbbhu8]

Moar Pics!  

[8uhbbhu8]

Even Moar!!!

[8uhbbhu8]

All Dem Pics!!

[warmmilk]

1 hour ago, vetali said:

Balance shafts seize and grenade the lower end. MZRs are incredibly simple motors as far as modern cars. I thrash the shit outta mine and it doesn't burn a drop of oil. 

 

Speaking of which, what fuel do you use in your Miata? I dumped some premium in my car because yolo and holy shit it rips now. Gotta death grip the wheel in first gear otherwise it will yank outta my hands.

 

Rotor runout will cause a pulsating brake pedal... warped rotors. Hub runout will cause a constant vibration. Is it an aluminum knuckle or a cast knuckle?

Balance shafts seize cause people try to rev them over 8k.  In my opinion they should be removed if the engine is gonna be revved any higher than stock. Not that I'm a fan of balance shafts in the first place

 

MZR is ok, my issue with it is that it costs a fortune to make any decent kinda power with it...  I mean the BAC Mono uses an MZR and makes 305hp, but it costs $30k...  

 

I don't get any vibration, on the brakes or off. The control arms are aluminum, the knuckle is cast. 

[warmmilk]

1 hour ago, bcredeur97 said:

@warmmilk did you install the in-line check valve wilwood described in this article? 

 

https://nasaspeed.news/tech/brakes/pad-knock-back-what-it-is-how-it-happens-and-what-to-do-about-it/

 

 

No, I didn't do a check valve, wilwood told me they prefer anti knockback springs to the check valve. 

 

But in my mind that's only a valid solution if a specific platform is known for knockback. I'm literally the only one with these brakes on his chassis that has knockback. That means something else is wrong, and I wanna fix that something else to cure the problem at the root. 

[vetali]

14 minutes ago, warmmilk said:

MZR is ok, my issue with it is that it costs a fortune to make any decent kinda power with it...  I mean the BAC Mono uses an MZR and makes 305hp, but it costs $30k...  

 

Yeah those are NA though. Most likely a custom head. Even if you take a K24, its gonna be very spendy to bring it near that HP NA. 

 

17 minutes ago, warmmilk said:

I don't get any vibration, on the brakes or off. The control arms are aluminum, the knuckle is cast. 

Do you have rotor screws on your car?

[Zodiark1593]

2 hours ago, vetali said:

Balance shafts seize and grenade the lower end. MZRs are incredibly simple motors as far as modern cars. I thrash the shit outta mine and it doesn't burn a drop of oil. 

 

Speaking of which, what fuel do you use in your Miata? I dumped some premium in my car because yolo and holy shit it rips now. Gotta death grip the wheel in first gear otherwise it will yank outta my hands.

 

Rotor runout will cause a pulsating brake pedal... warped rotors. Hub runout will cause a constant vibration. Is it an aluminum knuckle or a cast knuckle?

Premium makes more power for to Mazda 3? Common sense typically says no unless a tune had been done. I do thrash mine regularly because mountains and curves.

[vetali]

1 minute ago, Zodiark1593 said:

Premium makes more power for to Mazda 3? Common sense typically says no unless a tune had been done. I do thrash mine regularly because mountains and curves.

It has a 10:1 compression ratio iirc. Its border line, but I feel its high enough for at least mid grade. I need to hook up my scan tool and monitor some things, but it feels like its advancing a bit more than on regular. Has a bit more pull. No signs of the typical hesitation with using improper gas. It feels a lot more responsive. 

[terrytek]

4 hours ago, vinyldash303 said:

Grandad is thinking about buying this. 1969 DeVille hard top two door. It had the added option of the padded vinyl roof thats split all to hell. Been in storage for 17 years. 

 

/should/ be the 7.7 L v8 and turbo 400 tranny. Drift car? Hope so. 

 

jeez more like drift boat. with a 7.7 motor. i wonder how much power you can make when you stick a blower on it.

[bcredeur97]

29 minutes ago, vetali said:

It has a 10:1 compression ratio iirc. Its border line, but I feel its high enough for at least mid grade. I need to hook up my scan tool and monitor some things, but it feels like its advancing a bit more than on regular. Has a bit more pull. No signs of the typical hesitation with using improper gas. It feels a lot more responsive. 

in pretty much every car that calls for regular fuel that i've ever driven, it's always seemed to be a bit better with higher octane fuels. 

 

some more than others. most not enough for it to be worth it especially when it runs just fine for daily use on regular

 

they always say it makes no difference but in my experience it does (especially on responsiveness which you seem to notice too). I just normally keep quiet about it because ill get shut down by all the people who scream "NO" lol

 

but like I said I'm not used to it being much, and most people would definitely not notice.

[vetali]

6 minutes ago, bcredeur97 said:

in pretty much every car that calls for regular fuel that i've ever driven, it's always seemed to be a bit better with higher octane fuels. 

 

some more than others. most not enough for it to be worth it especially when it runs just fine for daily use on regular

 

they always say it makes no difference but in my experience it does (especially on responsiveness which you seem to notice too). I just normally keep quiet about it because ill get shut down by all the people who scream "NO" lol

 

but like I said I'm not used to it being much, and most people would definitely not notice.

I wouldn't of tried it if the compression ratio was in the 9s and a non VVT engine. You'd lose power + gas mileage. 

[paps511]

You guys see the challenger who thought he was a mustang?

/s

but really, that was fucked up

[Zodiark1593]

4 minutes ago, vetali said:

I wouldn't of tried it if the compression ratio was in the 9s and a non VVT engine. You'd lose power + gas mileage. 

Tbh, the car feels a bit more snappy in cold weather, particularly in the higher rpm while on a warmer day, it feels more dead up above 6k. Cold air probably is less susceptible to knock. I would wager that on a dyno (not sure of anyone obsessive enough to dyno these things, aside from maybe myself) the difference would probably fall within margin of error.

[RevoltTrain]

TIL Walmart sells 2 ton Jackstands for $8 a piece 

[vetali]

2 minutes ago, Zodiark1593 said:

Tbh, the car feels a bit more snappy in cold weather, particularly in the higher rpm while on a warmer day, it feels more dead up above 6k. Cold air probably is less susceptible to knock. I would wager that on a dyno (not sure of anyone obsessive enough to dyno these things, aside from maybe myself) the difference would probably fall within margin of error.

Oh yeah, the temperature is a big factor. In warmer weather my throttle response is terrible and inconsistent. 

 

Higher octane = harder to burn. Higher octane allows the VVT to advance the timing more without knocking. 

[Zodiark1593]

1 minute ago, vetali said:

Oh yeah, the temperature is a big factor. In warmer weather my throttle response is terrible and inconsistent. 

 

Higher octane = harder to burn. Higher octane allows the VVT to advance the timing more without knocking. 

Try getting those rpms up there in the cold. Even up a hill from a stop (damn the moron engineer for putting a stop sigh at the bottom of a hill BTW), the engine doesn't quite feel like its done at a mere 6500 rpm. I do feel like this engine could benefit from more rpm.

[vetali]

2 minutes ago, Zodiark1593 said:

Try getting those rpms up there in the cold. Even up a hill from a stop (damn the moron engineer for putting a stop sigh at the bottom of a hill BTW), the engine doesn't quite feel like its done at a mere 6500 rpm. I do feel like this engine could benefit from more rpm.

Maybe if you are going for 0-60 times. With its gearing, torque is more beneficial. 

[bcredeur97]

9 minutes ago, RevoltTrain said:

TIL Walmart sells 2 ton Jackstands for $8 a piece 

trust your life with them?

 

lol

[bcredeur97]

9 minutes ago, vinyldash303 said:

-snip-

I don't know the whole story yet. I've been doing fuck all today so I haven't been paying attention to the news. Just something about protests and nobody willing to hear other peoples opinions, and somehow nazis are a thing apparently? Oh well. I'm going to wait to form an opinion until Philly D talks about it on Monday. He's pretty good about being objective.

i just know bitcoin is $4100