Jump to content

Done with EVGA power supplies

For the record. It is good to have the psu fan spinning even at the lowest rpm. Not having a fan run for a long time can/will cause long term damage.

Watercooling Pro & Keyboard Enthusiast!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

13 minutes ago, Tech22 said:

For the record. It is good to have the psu fan spinning even at the lowest rpm. Not having a fan run for a long time can/will cause long term damage.

I hate zero fan mode hardware.

Personal Desktop":

CPU: Intel Core i7 10700K @5ghz |~| Cooling: bq! Dark Rock Pro 4 |~| MOBO: Gigabyte Z490UD ATX|~| RAM: 16gb DDR4 3333mhzCL16 G.Skill Trident Z |~| GPU: RX 6900XT Sapphire Nitro+ |~| PSU: Corsair TX650M 80Plus Gold |~| Boot:  SSD WD Green M.2 2280 240GB |~| Storage: 1x3TB HDD 7200rpm Seagate Barracuda + SanDisk Ultra 3D 1TB |~| Case: Fractal Design Meshify C Mini |~| Display: Toshiba UL7A 4K/60hz |~| OS: Windows 10 Pro.

Luna, the temporary Desktop:

CPU: AMD R9 7950XT  |~| Cooling: bq! Dark Rock 4 Pro |~| MOBO: Gigabyte Aorus Master |~| RAM: 32G Kingston HyperX |~| GPU: AMD Radeon RX 7900XTX (Reference) |~| PSU: Corsair HX1000 80+ Platinum |~| Windows Boot Drive: 2x 512GB (1TB total) Plextor SATA SSD (RAID0 volume) |~| Linux Boot Drive: 500GB Kingston A2000 |~| Storage: 4TB WD Black HDD |~| Case: Cooler Master Silencio S600 |~| Display 1 (leftmost): Eizo (unknown model) 1920x1080 IPS @ 60Hz|~| Display 2 (center): BenQ ZOWIE XL2540 1920x1080 TN @ 240Hz |~| Display 3 (rightmost): Wacom Cintiq Pro 24 3840x2160 IPS @ 60Hz 10-bit |~| OS: Windows 10 Pro (games / art) + Linux (distro: NixOS; programming and daily driver)
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

4 minutes ago, Princess Cadence said:

I hate zero fan mode hardware.

I like it on GPUs personally, don't have much of an opinion on PSUs I haven't done the research nor do I have the background to comment on that.

But regarding gpus, I always rip them apart and use liquid metal and higher grade thermal pads.  Pretty cool to see the GPU fans not kick on till almost 1 minute of uniengine lol.  But that's with good airflow in the case.

Sole Proprietor of Pinnacle Gaming, forging record breaking PCs at an unbeatable (literally) value feat: M2 drives, "delidded" cpus & gpus, record breaking speeds (hwbot), platinum PSU (always tier one),  premium motherboards, now with RGB LIGHTING, and all at a budget price, dare to compare even vs building yourself 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

Just now, SubLimation7 said:

.

I'd just get an AiO for the GPU with a high end silent fan on the radiator :P

 

I personally like stuff cooler even if there isn't a real difference while under 55ish degrees Celsius.

 

About your PSU issue I'm sorry you had bad experience with EVGA units, it could not be their fault though and your power source is the one to blame, who knows... what PSU are you running now and for how long?

Personal Desktop":

CPU: Intel Core i7 10700K @5ghz |~| Cooling: bq! Dark Rock Pro 4 |~| MOBO: Gigabyte Z490UD ATX|~| RAM: 16gb DDR4 3333mhzCL16 G.Skill Trident Z |~| GPU: RX 6900XT Sapphire Nitro+ |~| PSU: Corsair TX650M 80Plus Gold |~| Boot:  SSD WD Green M.2 2280 240GB |~| Storage: 1x3TB HDD 7200rpm Seagate Barracuda + SanDisk Ultra 3D 1TB |~| Case: Fractal Design Meshify C Mini |~| Display: Toshiba UL7A 4K/60hz |~| OS: Windows 10 Pro.

Luna, the temporary Desktop:

CPU: AMD R9 7950XT  |~| Cooling: bq! Dark Rock 4 Pro |~| MOBO: Gigabyte Aorus Master |~| RAM: 32G Kingston HyperX |~| GPU: AMD Radeon RX 7900XTX (Reference) |~| PSU: Corsair HX1000 80+ Platinum |~| Windows Boot Drive: 2x 512GB (1TB total) Plextor SATA SSD (RAID0 volume) |~| Linux Boot Drive: 500GB Kingston A2000 |~| Storage: 4TB WD Black HDD |~| Case: Cooler Master Silencio S600 |~| Display 1 (leftmost): Eizo (unknown model) 1920x1080 IPS @ 60Hz|~| Display 2 (center): BenQ ZOWIE XL2540 1920x1080 TN @ 240Hz |~| Display 3 (rightmost): Wacom Cintiq Pro 24 3840x2160 IPS @ 60Hz 10-bit |~| OS: Windows 10 Pro (games / art) + Linux (distro: NixOS; programming and daily driver)
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

On ‎12‎/‎11‎/‎2017 at 4:35 PM, Princess Cadence said:

I'd just get an AiO for the GPU with a high end silent fan on the radiator :P

 

I personally like stuff cooler even if there isn't a real difference while under 55ish degrees Celsius.

 

About your PSU issue I'm sorry you had bad experience with EVGA units, it could not be their fault though and your power source is the one to blame, who knows... what PSU are you running now and for how long?

PSU is actually still working fine, none of it's really EVGAs fault, I updated in my last post on second page if you wanna read through it.  On my girlfriends rig and my personal I have EVGA p2s right now, even in my old computer I'm using currently until I get a new motherboard and cpu is EVGA p2 and still going strong.  On that note, the old rig I'm currently using has an 8350, and wow is it performing WAYYY better than expected with a GTX 1080, I've been playing Fortnite, Paragon, and Dota 2 all at 1440p 60+fps max settings.  I know none of those are particularly demanding on the CPU side, but coming from 6800k back to 8350 I figured I'd get lots of stuttering.

 

I definitely like things running as cold as possible, but I'm not a fan of liquid, so far I can tame any Intel chip under 60c with air cooler under prime 95 while being more quiet than any radiator setup I have ever com across (after delidding), even 6700k I had at 5ghz still running cool, so I don't see the point in spending the extra money and dealing with liquid.

 

Increasing thermal transfer even makes your stuff use less power at the same voltage/frequency, little known truth.  After delidding with exact same settings usually notice 10-20 less watts from the wall.  Gamersnexus recently noted similar findings now that he is starting to delid.  I've had fx83xx chips that weren't stable at 4.8ghz, and replacing stock TiM with liquid metal is enough to not only make them stable at 4.8, but able to be pushed past 5.2ghz even when temps weren't an issue before delid.  Yes, I realize that AMD chips are soldered for the most part, but removing TiM (which in this case is the bottleneck) and switching to 15x higher thermal conductivity makes a HUGE difference on soldered chips, to the same effect as delidding Intel.  

 

Looks like I'll have an 8700k next week, anyone have experience with MSI Krait socket 1151 Mobos?  I don't really want to go with ASUS again lol, even though I really like their boards...

 

Sole Proprietor of Pinnacle Gaming, forging record breaking PCs at an unbeatable (literally) value feat: M2 drives, "delidded" cpus & gpus, record breaking speeds (hwbot), platinum PSU (always tier one),  premium motherboards, now with RGB LIGHTING, and all at a budget price, dare to compare even vs building yourself 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

Well it is probably bad luck on your end. I have 2 EVGA 750W 80+ Gold ( 750 GQ model). I've had both of these PCs since November of last year. Mind you I live in California where we've had temperatures up to 110 Fahrenheit!!! Yet my PCs seem to do fine. Yes I do a bit of maintenance every few months to remove dust, but so far I've had zero issues. No winding noise, nothing!

 

This is coming from a guy who used to use Thermaltake (relatively inexpensive) PSUs and those always failed within a year or more. 

Check Out My 2 PC Builds! - Fall 2015

Check Out My Twin PC Builds! - Fall 2016 (Revival)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

6 hours ago, Tech22 said:

For the record. It is good to have the psu fan spinning even at the lowest rpm. Not having a fan run for a long time can/will cause long term damage.

No.  That's incorrect.  Sorry.  You're wrong.

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

3 hours ago, jonnyGURU said:

No.  That's incorrect.  Sorry.  You're wrong.

Well, he is kinda right because a fan spinning at low RPM (something like 300rpm or so) cools it better than no airflow at all thus reducing the temperature of components dramatically.


And also lesser start/stop cycles for the fan...

"Hell is full of good meanings, but Heaven is full of good works"

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

4 hours ago, Stefan Payne said:

Well, he is kinda right because a fan spinning at low RPM (something like 300rpm or so) cools it better than no airflow at all thus reducing the temperature of components dramatically.


And also lesser start/stop cycles for the fan...

You are correcting jonnyGURU... I promise he knows what he’s talking about

 

And the fan running without a need is just going to make you have to replace the fan earlier than necessary, with no gain in longevity for the OSU

That's an F in the profile pic

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

14 hours ago, Stefan Payne said:

Well, he is kinda right because a fan spinning at low RPM (something like 300rpm or so) cools it better than no airflow at all thus reducing the temperature of components dramatically.


And also lesser start/stop cycles for the fan...

 

10 hours ago, Froody129 said:

You are correcting jonnyGURU... I promise he knows what he’s talking about

 

And the fan running without a need is just going to make you have to replace the fan earlier than necessary, with no gain in longevity for the OSU

Well, no.  Stefan is mostly right.  With the fan doing constant start/stops, it does put wear and tear on the fan.  That said:  It should still last the warranty term.

 

Also, a fan spinning slower instead of full stop means that the fan doesn't have to spin as fast when components get too hot since there's already air flow.  When there's no air flow, the fan has to spin faster/longer to create enough positive pressure to exhaust excess heat and bring temps back down to a point where the fan can stop again.

 

I was talking more about the internal components.  When the PSU is "fanless" those components inside are nowhere near their derating curve, never mind their maximum operating temperature.  Their lives are not shortened.  The whole premise to "fanless PSUs" like the Nightjar and Seasonic's fanless is that they use more robust components typically used for higher wattage units and then remove the fan and label the PSU as a lower wattage.

 

If you think about it this way...  Whatever AC is not converted to DC becomes heat.  Given that PSUs are typically 90%+ efficient these days, you can easily extrapolate that that's not a lot of heat.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×