Jump to content
Search In
  • More options...
Find results that contain...
Find results in...


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited


This user doesn't have any awards

About Tech22

  • Title

Profile Information

  • Gender


  • CPU
    i7 6700k at 4.8Ghz 1.33V
  • Motherboard
  • RAM
    16 GB Corsair Vengeance LPX DDR4 3000 CL-16-16-18 Blue
  • GPU
    EVGA GTX 1080 FTW
  • Case
    NZXT H440
  • Storage
    Samsung 850 EVO 256GB + WD Black 3 TB 7200 RPM
  • PSU
    EVGA G2 650W
  • Display(s)
    ASUS PG279Q
  • Cooling
    Corsair H100i V2
  • Keyboard
    Custom 65% Build
  • Mouse
    Corsair M65 Pro RGB
  • Sound
    HD 660S
  • Operating System
    Windows 10 Pro

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Double check if you have LEDs to desolder. I also recommend you purchase a switch remover/puller. It makes it very easy to remove switches from plate mounted keyboards.
  2. You have to overclock the panel to get above its maximum refresh rate. Should be in monitor settings somewhere through the buttons built into the monitor itself.
  3. FTW has a far better cooler. I would take that over the SC2 depending on the price jump (if it is ~$20-45 more, take the FTW3).
  4. I would buy a single Quadro RTX 8000 for $10,000 (estimated price but whatever). I want 48GB of V-Ram for playing crysis at 5 FPS.
  5. Not sure either. I have heard good things about the EK ones, and haven't used Koolance in any build before. I know I would trust EK fittings over Koolance, even though I believe Koolance to be pretty good. I think JayzTwoCents uses the EK QDC fittings in his test bench, with compression fittings on each end, not sure though.
  6. What if they took a pre-existing heatsink and filled the gaps between the fins with TIM. I think that would be a great video..
  7. Definitely get another 360, the sole 280 (even the SR-2) is not enough. The SR-2 series performs better than most radiators around 700-800 RPM, so good choice with those. I would recommend the EK QDC fittings instead of the Koolance if you want them. Just so you know, Barrow IS NOT the OEM for Bitspower fittings. Barrow is made in China, and Bitspower is made in Taiwan. Barrow still makes VERY good fittings - just know they are not "the same" as Bitspower. As for Biocides, a silver kill coil is only advisable if you have NO Nickel in your loop (only copper, no nickel plating). I would recommen
  8. I have no idea about the 98Hz. It may have something to do with the G-Sync HDR module and older displayport versions or your specific GPU. Did your old pc have a different model 980ti than your current one?
  9. He is saying that your 980ti has DisplayPort 1.2 ports, the monitor needs DisplayPort 1.4 to run at 144hz, 4K, and HDR at the same time. DisplayPort 1.2 DOES NOT support HDR to begin with, so if you want to use HDR you need a newer GPU with DisplayPort 1.4 ports.
  10. I recommend you look at this chart: This testing, courtesy of GamersNexus, shows a pretty good idea of AIO with and without Liquid Metal. Don't bother with liquid temp, as it is irrelevant as the liquid doesn't exceed 60C. This was tested using a Kraken X62 with 2 Corsair ML140 Pros. I recommend a good 280mm AIO with a Gen 5 or Gen 6 Asetek pump with better fans than included, for example the EVGA CLC280. An AIO is ONLY recommended if you delid with liquid metal, otherwise you would need a custom loop to keep it below 90C.
  11. According to the GamersNexus teardown of the card, it is a founders edition PCB. You are good to go!
  12. GK64 has a lot of issues sometimes. And the shift key is 2U, so custom caps become a lot harder to get. Also, the switches tend to pop out when pulling keycaps (this hotswap board specifically is the only one that does this).
  13. The ASUS Poseidon cards cool worse than aftermarket blocks, have aluminum air cooling fins in conjunction with a copper block, and have issues on some batches of cards. It is always recommended to get your own block and install it yourself, they usually have too much thermal paste on them as well. They are a massive 2.5 slot card, opposed to a 2 or even 1 slot card if you go with an aftermarket block on certain cards. The fins are also ALUMINUM, and in some areas contact the copper, which you may be ok with, as it would take MUCH longer to corrode because oxygen is the medium of particle trans
  14. They are very good and reputable. Just don't use the really crappy stuff they make. Use the more 'high-end' stuff instead.
  15. M50x's are really bad for their price. The m50s are a bit better, but there are still much better options for its price tag.