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Hello, I am very new to overclocking and hope to get some advice.

 

I watched the LTT video on which video card to buy in 2016, and I decided to get the EVGA GeForce GTX 1070. Then later I watch another LTT video where the overclocked editions may not be the best purchase.
I plan to water cool and overclock the GPU myself, so would the Founders edition or reference card be better for me??

 

Thanks

 

 

https://www.amazon.ca/EVGA-GeForce-Support-Graphics-08G-P4-6173-KR/dp/B01GX5YWAO/ref=sr_1_1?tag=linustechti06-20&ie=UTF8&qid=1477162437&sr=8-1&keywords=08G-P4-6173-KR

 

 

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If you intend to water cool the GPU I would get the cheapest GTX 1070 you can get you hands on at the time of purchasing (excluding the mini 1070's available). All perform very similar but models like EVGA's 1070 FTW2 Gaming definitely outperform the reference versions of the card, however, if you have the card water cooled you can then overclock the GPU to go for an even greater performance gain.

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I have always preferred the Founders Edition, people usually gets on me for it xD

The blower type is better for small cases and sli configurations as its heat is drag outside the case, open cooling systems are good if you have a single card in a big case with good air flow so that extra heat does not interfere with the other components... the FE usually comes with good silicons for overclocking while open style after market cards, sometimes, are less noisy.

 

But at the end of the day the performance will be similar enough to simply get what looks the best for your aesthetic wishes. 

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27 minutes ago, CatMan2000 said:

water cool

Also, if you want go through the hassle of water cooling, I advise the 1080FE as it has good water blocks for it and it'll somewhat justify in grains on both overclocking and noise.

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CPU: AMD R9 7950XT  |~| Cooling: bq! Dark Rock 4 Pro |~| MOBO: Gigabyte Aorus Master |~| RAM: 32G Kingston HyperX |~| GPU: AMD Radeon RX 7900XTX (Reference) |~| PSU: Corsair HX1000 80+ Platinum |~| Windows Boot Drive: 2x 512GB (1TB total) Plextor SATA SSD (RAID0 volume) |~| Linux Boot Drive: 500GB Kingston A2000 |~| Storage: 4TB WD Black HDD |~| Case: Cooler Master Silencio S600 |~| Display 1 (leftmost): Eizo (unknown model) 1920x1080 IPS @ 60Hz|~| Display 2 (center): BenQ ZOWIE XL2540 1920x1080 TN @ 240Hz |~| Display 3 (rightmost): Wacom Cintiq Pro 24 3840x2160 IPS @ 60Hz 10-bit |~| OS: Windows 10 Pro (games / art) + Linux (distro: NixOS; programming and daily driver)
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the only reason to watercool a GTX 1070 is for the look...i had the MSI GTX 1070 gaming X in house not long ago and the card with both sliders maxed out wouldn't even reach 65c under full load...so temps were really not the limiting factor to overclocking.

 

i would suggest you buy a higher end card instead, like a GTX 1080 or GTX 1080ti with the money you saved.

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1 minute ago, i_build_nanosuits said:

the only reason to watercool a GTX 1070 is for the look...i had the MSI GTX 1070 gaming X in house not long ago and the card with both sliders maxed out wouldn't even reach 65c under full load...so temps were really not the limiting factor to overclocking.

Pretty much this  ^

watercooling a 1070 is as pointless as overclocking an i3, no real gain aside aesthetic... since even on full load the fans are within acceptable noise range.

Personal Desktop":

CPU: Intel Core i7 10700K @5ghz |~| Cooling: bq! Dark Rock Pro 4 |~| MOBO: Gigabyte Z490UD ATX|~| RAM: 16gb DDR4 3333mhzCL16 G.Skill Trident Z |~| GPU: RX 6900XT Sapphire Nitro+ |~| PSU: Corsair TX650M 80Plus Gold |~| Boot:  SSD WD Green M.2 2280 240GB |~| Storage: 1x3TB HDD 7200rpm Seagate Barracuda + SanDisk Ultra 3D 1TB |~| Case: Fractal Design Meshify C Mini |~| Display: Toshiba UL7A 4K/60hz |~| OS: Windows 10 Pro.

Luna, the temporary Desktop:

CPU: AMD R9 7950XT  |~| Cooling: bq! Dark Rock 4 Pro |~| MOBO: Gigabyte Aorus Master |~| RAM: 32G Kingston HyperX |~| GPU: AMD Radeon RX 7900XTX (Reference) |~| PSU: Corsair HX1000 80+ Platinum |~| Windows Boot Drive: 2x 512GB (1TB total) Plextor SATA SSD (RAID0 volume) |~| Linux Boot Drive: 500GB Kingston A2000 |~| Storage: 4TB WD Black HDD |~| Case: Cooler Master Silencio S600 |~| Display 1 (leftmost): Eizo (unknown model) 1920x1080 IPS @ 60Hz|~| Display 2 (center): BenQ ZOWIE XL2540 1920x1080 TN @ 240Hz |~| Display 3 (rightmost): Wacom Cintiq Pro 24 3840x2160 IPS @ 60Hz 10-bit |~| OS: Windows 10 Pro (games / art) + Linux (distro: NixOS; programming and daily driver)
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1 minute ago, Princess Cadence said:

Pretty much this  ^

watercooling a 1070 is as pointless as overclocking an i3, no real gain aside aesthetic... since even on full load the fans are within acceptable noise range.

and by the time you have the radiator, coolant, waterblock, piping, fans, reservoir, fittings etc. you can EASILY buy a MSI 1080ti instead and be happy to have a GPU that is twice as powerful as a GTX 1070...

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Just now, CatMan2000 said:

Excellent Thank You. I'll update the part list to a 1080

if you want to share your part list, i have some time i can recommend some awesome parts for your budget...are you in the US?

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| GPU: MSI RTX 3080Ti Ventus 3X OC  RAM: 32GB T-Force Delta RGB 3066mhz |
| Displays: Acer Predator XB270HU 1440p Gsync 144hz IPS Gaming monitor | Oculus Quest 3 VR

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If you're water cooling you could look at a card that comes with a water block attached like the msi seahawk ek, costs about the same as other cards that I've seen but you save because it comes with the water block on it rather than throwing more money into it for the same end result

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Thanks, I am in Canada.

Its a new list. I started with the Lian Li case and a $3000 budget for computer parts taxes in (not including cooling system)

Note: I only plan on one M.2 SSD, I kept two there to ballpark the price.

 

https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/list/CTTpJV

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Jesus that is an ugly build xD

 

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i7-7700 3.6GHz Quad-Core Processor  ($389.75 @ Vuugo)
Motherboard: Asus PRIME B250M-K Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard  ($102.60 @ shopRBC)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2666 Memory  ($152.99 @ Amazon Canada)
Storage: Sandisk SSD PLUS 240GB 2.5" Solid State Drive  ($104.99 @ Newegg Canada)
Storage: Seagate Barracuda 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive  ($56.49 @ DirectCanada)
Video Card: Zotac GeForce GTX 1080 Ti 11GB Founders Edition Video Card  ($943.68 @ shopRBC)
Case: NZXT S340 (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case  ($83.75 @ Vuugo)
Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA G2 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply  ($104.99 @ NCIX)
Total: $1939.24
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-03-29 19:52 EDT-0400

 

 

Much cheaper and much higher performance

Personal Desktop":

CPU: Intel Core i7 10700K @5ghz |~| Cooling: bq! Dark Rock Pro 4 |~| MOBO: Gigabyte Z490UD ATX|~| RAM: 16gb DDR4 3333mhzCL16 G.Skill Trident Z |~| GPU: RX 6900XT Sapphire Nitro+ |~| PSU: Corsair TX650M 80Plus Gold |~| Boot:  SSD WD Green M.2 2280 240GB |~| Storage: 1x3TB HDD 7200rpm Seagate Barracuda + SanDisk Ultra 3D 1TB |~| Case: Fractal Design Meshify C Mini |~| Display: Toshiba UL7A 4K/60hz |~| OS: Windows 10 Pro.

Luna, the temporary Desktop:

CPU: AMD R9 7950XT  |~| Cooling: bq! Dark Rock 4 Pro |~| MOBO: Gigabyte Aorus Master |~| RAM: 32G Kingston HyperX |~| GPU: AMD Radeon RX 7900XTX (Reference) |~| PSU: Corsair HX1000 80+ Platinum |~| Windows Boot Drive: 2x 512GB (1TB total) Plextor SATA SSD (RAID0 volume) |~| Linux Boot Drive: 500GB Kingston A2000 |~| Storage: 4TB WD Black HDD |~| Case: Cooler Master Silencio S600 |~| Display 1 (leftmost): Eizo (unknown model) 1920x1080 IPS @ 60Hz|~| Display 2 (center): BenQ ZOWIE XL2540 1920x1080 TN @ 240Hz |~| Display 3 (rightmost): Wacom Cintiq Pro 24 3840x2160 IPS @ 60Hz 10-bit |~| OS: Windows 10 Pro (games / art) + Linux (distro: NixOS; programming and daily driver)
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I have some concerns with your build. Sure it is cheaper, but missing a lot of functionality. The i5-6600k has a better cost to performance value (insert LTT video here, Linus would be so proud :P). The MB doesn't have WIfi, possible SLI support, or future overclocking. I went with a M.2 SDD because of faster boot times. Plus it doesn't have the case I'm build the system around. ;)

Thanks for the Advice.

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29 minutes ago, Cyracus said:

If you're water cooling you could look at a card that comes with a water block attached like the msi seahawk ek, costs about the same as other cards that I've seen but you save because it comes with the water block on it rather than throwing more money into it for the same end result

Excellent, thank you. I didn't know that was an option

 

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24 minutes ago, CatMan2000 said:

snip

You have a lot of miss conceptions here, the i5 6600k/7600k is by all means actually the worse cost to performance available right now, a lot of experienced users in here will agree, @PCGuy_5960 @done12many2 @Morgan MLGman @nerdslayer @stealth80

 

Also M.2 is just a different form meant to take much less space for mini builds, it's real world performance equals sata 3 2,5 ones.

 

You don't need sli with a 1080ti, you can get a pci-e 1x wifi adapter for 20 dollars and call it a day

 

A locked i7 will always outperform an overclocked i5 regardless how high you go in overclocking:

 

Personal Desktop":

CPU: Intel Core i7 10700K @5ghz |~| Cooling: bq! Dark Rock Pro 4 |~| MOBO: Gigabyte Z490UD ATX|~| RAM: 16gb DDR4 3333mhzCL16 G.Skill Trident Z |~| GPU: RX 6900XT Sapphire Nitro+ |~| PSU: Corsair TX650M 80Plus Gold |~| Boot:  SSD WD Green M.2 2280 240GB |~| Storage: 1x3TB HDD 7200rpm Seagate Barracuda + SanDisk Ultra 3D 1TB |~| Case: Fractal Design Meshify C Mini |~| Display: Toshiba UL7A 4K/60hz |~| OS: Windows 10 Pro.

Luna, the temporary Desktop:

CPU: AMD R9 7950XT  |~| Cooling: bq! Dark Rock 4 Pro |~| MOBO: Gigabyte Aorus Master |~| RAM: 32G Kingston HyperX |~| GPU: AMD Radeon RX 7900XTX (Reference) |~| PSU: Corsair HX1000 80+ Platinum |~| Windows Boot Drive: 2x 512GB (1TB total) Plextor SATA SSD (RAID0 volume) |~| Linux Boot Drive: 500GB Kingston A2000 |~| Storage: 4TB WD Black HDD |~| Case: Cooler Master Silencio S600 |~| Display 1 (leftmost): Eizo (unknown model) 1920x1080 IPS @ 60Hz|~| Display 2 (center): BenQ ZOWIE XL2540 1920x1080 TN @ 240Hz |~| Display 3 (rightmost): Wacom Cintiq Pro 24 3840x2160 IPS @ 60Hz 10-bit |~| OS: Windows 10 Pro (games / art) + Linux (distro: NixOS; programming and daily driver)
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6 minutes ago, Princess Cadence said:

snip

 

 

Looks like I need to do more homework on the CPU, though I am still confused with your stance. Please tell me if I'm missing something, since I'm basing this decision on benchmarks showing similar performance between the i5 and the i7 for half the cost.

 

I durped on getting a pci wifi adapter :S

 

Thanks for the advice.

 

  

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15 minutes ago, CatMan2000 said:

snip

The thing is, these youtube benchmarks are almost always biased while also gets outdated considerably fast, nowadays games have finally started to take advantage from more threads, the main purpose of the new APIs such as Vulkan and DirectX12 is to increase even further how well games can multi-thread making the i7 hyper-threading more desirable than higher core clocks, if you want to overclock the i7 7700k then you'll obviously have the best performance possible however overclocking an i5 will lag you behind locked i7s.

 

Not to mention that multi-tasking, multi-threaded applications, over all performance, everything will see higher performance on i7's thanks to those 4 more threads.

 

Like back in 2015 the i5 was yes a good pick but not any more, you'd be better off with the Ryzen 5 1600x since it's 6c/12t with decent IPC.

 

Take Battlefield 1 for instance it is a game made already thinking hard on DX12 and extremely CPU demanding such as the newer games tend to be, on those the i5's are hitting 100% usage and potentially bottlenecking higher end video cards, you could say that 2017 is the year where i5's got outdated for the high end gaming.

 

42HiPN0.png

 

Looking on the example above If you go with a high end video card like the 1080ti which is on pair with the Titan XP, look how much the 6600k even overclocked bottlenecks the video card even when compared to the stock 6700k, not only that the frames per second and frame times fluctuate a lot more on it as it often gets fully stressed out due to lower thread count, while the 6700k manages to keep up a much more steady average in frames per second/ frame times.

 

I am not saying you shouldn't OC, but if you do want to you should go for a good priced 270 motherboard with an i7 7700k instead otherwise you will not be giving a good value for your money otherwise the b250+i7 7700 is what will give you better cost to performance, and towards the case you can build it with any you want xD

Personal Desktop":

CPU: Intel Core i7 10700K @5ghz |~| Cooling: bq! Dark Rock Pro 4 |~| MOBO: Gigabyte Z490UD ATX|~| RAM: 16gb DDR4 3333mhzCL16 G.Skill Trident Z |~| GPU: RX 6900XT Sapphire Nitro+ |~| PSU: Corsair TX650M 80Plus Gold |~| Boot:  SSD WD Green M.2 2280 240GB |~| Storage: 1x3TB HDD 7200rpm Seagate Barracuda + SanDisk Ultra 3D 1TB |~| Case: Fractal Design Meshify C Mini |~| Display: Toshiba UL7A 4K/60hz |~| OS: Windows 10 Pro.

Luna, the temporary Desktop:

CPU: AMD R9 7950XT  |~| Cooling: bq! Dark Rock 4 Pro |~| MOBO: Gigabyte Aorus Master |~| RAM: 32G Kingston HyperX |~| GPU: AMD Radeon RX 7900XTX (Reference) |~| PSU: Corsair HX1000 80+ Platinum |~| Windows Boot Drive: 2x 512GB (1TB total) Plextor SATA SSD (RAID0 volume) |~| Linux Boot Drive: 500GB Kingston A2000 |~| Storage: 4TB WD Black HDD |~| Case: Cooler Master Silencio S600 |~| Display 1 (leftmost): Eizo (unknown model) 1920x1080 IPS @ 60Hz|~| Display 2 (center): BenQ ZOWIE XL2540 1920x1080 TN @ 240Hz |~| Display 3 (rightmost): Wacom Cintiq Pro 24 3840x2160 IPS @ 60Hz 10-bit |~| OS: Windows 10 Pro (games / art) + Linux (distro: NixOS; programming and daily driver)
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11 hours ago, Princess Cadence said:

Also M.2 is just a different form meant to take much less space for mini builds, it's real world performance equals sata 3 2,5 ones.

I agree with everything, but this :P

 

The bolded part is only partially true, if the SSD is a SATA III one in an M.2 form factor then yeah it's true, however there are NVMe M.2 SSDs that don't use the SATA III interface but PCI-E 3.0 x4 and those are MUCH faster (cause SATA 3 caps at around 600MB/s in the real world):

Quote

Samsung SM951-NVMe M.2 SSD Specifications

 

  • Capacities: 128GB (MZVP128HDGM), 256GB (MZVPV256HDGL), 512GB (MZVP512HDGL)
  • Form Factor: M.2
  • Interface: PCIe Gen3 8Gb/s x4
  • Bytes per Sector: 512 Bytes
  • Seq. Read:
    • 256/512GB - Up to 2,150MB/s
    • 128GB - Up to 2,000MB/s
  • Seq Write:
    • 512GB - Up to 1,550MB/s
    • 256GB - Up to 1,260MB/s
    • 128GB - Up to 650MB/s

CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 5800X3D GPU: AMD Radeon RX 6900 XT 16GB GDDR6 Motherboard: MSI PRESTIGE X570 CREATION
AIO: Corsair H150i Pro RAM: Corsair Dominator Platinum RGB 32GB 3600MHz DDR4 Case: Lian Li PC-O11 Dynamic PSU: Corsair RM850x White

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As long as you can get a water block for the specific card you want, it doesn't matter if reference or aftermarket. Aftermarket cards will typically have beefier power delivery design which helps with OC potential.

 

With regards to 1070's and OCing; most of the non-reference cards only OC maybe 50-100mhz above what the founder's cards OC to. Just keep in mind; most founder's cards can easily reach just over 2000mhz on the core and 9000 on the memory from a manual OC. That's +1000 over stock on the memory and around +350mhz over the stock founder's "boost clock" (1683mhz) to begin with. So they all overclock quite well, it's just that with GPUboost 3.0, they also pretty much all OC themselves out of the box to well over 1800mhz, sustained (some over 1900). And that's just the founder's cards.  

My Systems:

Main - Work + Gaming:

Spoiler

Woodland Raven: Ryzen 2700X // AMD Wraith RGB // Asus Prime X570-P // G.Skill 2x 8GB 3600MHz DDR4 // Radeon RX Vega 56 // Crucial P1 NVMe 1TB M.2 SSD // Deepcool DQ650-M // chassis build in progress // Windows 10 // Thrustmaster TMX + G27 pedals & shifter

F@H Rig:

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FX-8350 // Deepcool Neptwin // MSI 970 Gaming // AData 2x 4GB 1600 DDR3 // 2x Gigabyte RX-570 4G's // Samsung 840 120GB SSD // Cooler Master V650 // Windows 10

 

HTPC:

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Laptops:

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MY DAILY: Lenovo ThinkPad T410 // 14" 1440x900 // i5-540M 2.5GHz Dual-Core HT // Intel HD iGPU + Quadro NVS 3100M 512MB dGPU // 2x4GB DDR3L 1066 // Mushkin Triactor 480GB SSD // Windows 10

 

WIFE'S: Dell Latitude E5450 // 14" 1366x768 // i5-5300U 2.3GHz Dual-Core HT // Intel HD5500 // 2x4GB RAM DDR3L 1600 // 500GB 7200 HDD // Linux Mint 19.3 Cinnamon

 

EXPERIMENTAL: Pinebook // 11.6" 1080p // Manjaro KDE (ARM)

NAS:

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Home NAS: Pentium G4400 @3.3 // Gigabyte GA-Z170-HD3 // 2x 4GB DDR4 2400 // Intel HD Graphics // Kingston A400 120GB SSD // 3x Seagate Barracuda 2TB 7200 HDDs in RAID-Z // Cooler Master Silent Pro M 1000w PSU // Antec Performance Plus 1080AMG // FreeNAS OS

 

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