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  1. So I was looking at getting the items for my coolest and all pt nuke is sold out like every where. What other biocide is really good. Or worst case is the least problematic concentrate solution.
  2. Budget (including currency): ??? AUD Country: Australia Im looking for a CAD designer to help me design a custom waterblock for my laptop im planning on turning into a watercooled gaming frakenstein. Its a G7 17 (7790) that has an i7-9750H and RTX 2060 in it and I use it alot for gaming and other general uses. Although I dont play any super intesive games it still get very very hot due to the Aussie heat and poor cooling design from Dell. Even with the undervolt I have on it (-0.128V), any lower and it becomes unstable over long term. Its constantly bordering thermal throttlin
  3. Budget (including currency): Country: Austria Games, programs or workloads that it will be used for: Gaming, Fusion 360 and Movies Other details (existing parts lists, whether any peripherals are needed, what you're upgrading from, when you're going to buy, what resolution and refresh rate you want to play at, etc): Planned is a RTX 3080 (HAHAHAHA, non existing since Launch) with Bykski Waterblock and Gigabyte X570i with AMD 5600X and Bykski AM4 block, 2x Corsair 16Gb 3500Mhz, Samsung 970 Evo 1Tb, Corsair SF600 only thing missing is the RTX 3080, who would've t
  4. Hello there, I'm planning to buy a Dark Base 700 in order to put a NZXT x73 360mm RGB AIO in it, so i was wondering about the best position for both CPU and GPU thermals, i don't want to go further than 80°C on both (actually 90°C for the CPU and 77°C for GPU in full load). Knowing that the top position have a really limited space for air to go throught and that CPU will eat all the GPU's hot air, it's probably not the best place for CPU thermals. Then, the other option is to put the watercooling in front of the case, but now the CPU will have a better cooling (because there i
  5. Budget (including currency): 11k Malaysian ringgit, or about 2.75k usd give or take, a bit flexible. Country: Malaysia Games, programs or workloads that it will be used for: gaming, rendering and particle simulation. What im planning to do is a mini ITX build in a nr200, its the only case with its dimensions (as far as im aware) that i can actually carry on into a plane, as i do international flights atleast 4-5 times a year, (a laptop is out of the question due to specs), I'd love to know if someone actually has experience carrying the NR200 from cooler master as carr
  6. I'm trying to install a new radiator in the front of my case, with the fans on the inside in a pull configuration. I was able to install it without issue, but my new layout requires that I mount my pump/res combo to the fan. I picked up an EK Uni Pump 120mm fan mount (https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-uni-pump-bracket-120mm-fan-vertical) but the rad screw seems just slightly too short now. It comes with 30mm screws which is sufficient to go through the fan, the case mount and the rad, but the added 1mm of the pump mount, plus the 1-2mm increase because the screw is no longer countersunk means that
  7. I'm planning on making a custom case because why not and I want a smaller foot print on my desk. Its about the same size as the Phanteks evolve shift with Phanteks being 170mm x 470mm x 274mm and mine being 172mm x 415mm x 311mm (I honestly forgot about this case until I saw a video about it a week ago). The only things that Phanteks case has that mine doesn't is the two 140mm fans and the 3.5 drive space and probably better build quality. i have the whole case out of 1/8in alum which should be plenty sturdy and only make it about 16lbs. I have it mostly finalized am just wanting to know if an
  8. Upgrading Case, CPU, Motherboard, GPU and much more, while keeping some components from her old SM5 build Budget (In AUD): Total value if all parts were new: $8,000 AUD Country: Australia Games, programs or workloads that it will be used for: Photoshop, General work, watching movies/ YouTube, Minecraft, Garry's mod, StarCraft 2, Planning on playing Red Dead 2 Color theme: Grey, White and Purple The parts list so far: Case: Caselabs S5 Motherboard: Asus ROG Gene XI CPU: 9900KS GPU: RTX 2080 ti RAM: Corsair Dominator Platinum 32GB PSU: Sea
  9. Today I upgraded my CPU cooler from the stock cooler to the NZXT M22 Kraken AIO. After upgrading, I powered on my PC, headed into the BIOS to see that my AIO pump was detected, and saw amazing cooling results. As usual, I took my PC for a run in some games. I played for most of the day, but by the end of the day, after I hit a loading screen, my CPU temps started rising fast. I went from 66 degrees to 100+ degrees and thus causing extreme thermal throttling and poor performance. I powered down my PC and let it cool down a bit before powering it back on. I powered it back on and headed into the
  10. Hey, i bought a matrexx 55 case and im thinking about an ekwb kit. would this work. And what is the cheapest rgb controller with software control because i dont have an rgb header.
  11. Hello guys and gals, Motivation: The plan is to upgrade my system with a Ryzen 5800x and an RTX 3080 TUF (when they are available) and beef up my wife's PC with my Ryzen 2700 and RTX 2080super. In this post I want to log (hopefully everything) that's going on concerning planning, aquiring the parts and rebuilding the two systems. Depending on parts availability and my personal time table this whole project might take some months but we will get there at the latest by the end of this year (I hope...). Currently our systems look like this: M
  12. Hello everyone. I have a few questions about hardline liquid cooling. I have built and torn down multiple computers in the past, both high end and low end. I have been in the pc spectrum for quite a few years now, and I think I am finally going to build a hardline liquid cooled pc next year since it seems that new cpus and gpus will not be available until then. Is Corsair's custom cooling any good? I have seen videos about them and some reviews, but I was wondering on how they compare to EK's cooling solutions. I also noticed that there are quite a few different sizes of fittings and tube size
  13. Hi everyone. I'm looking to install a water block on the XFX THICC III 5700XT GPU. While I have already taken it apart and put it back together for curiosity's sake, I'm now looking to install the water block with a radiator and pump in my system. I have space for a 240mm Radiator or a 360mm Radiator in the Be quiet! Pure Base 500 tempered glass case. A quick search on YouTube doesn't show any results for my specific card to what is needed in terms of components, fittings and such. Is there a generic guideline or list needed to tick off what is needed to complete the water loop? The idea is to
  14. I'm looking to get into a full loop and have been having trouble locating a guaranteed compatible waterblock for the Windforce OC variant of the Aorus 2080 Super. This is the closest I've gotten so far in terms of compatibility, but wanna make sure I'm aware of as many options as possible. From what I can tell the card is a custom PCB so no FE blocks will work based off of THIS .pdf that goes in depth on what is reference or custom pcb for each 2000 series card. Anyone able to help?
  15. Should I get an AiO or Custom Water Loop and If Custom Water loop, is there a way to bend hard tubing without heat gun
  16. Hi there! I wanted to push this project back into later this year but thanks to some killer deals I just had to go for it. I'm hauling my rig to a local LAN party at least twice a year and since it's been quite uncomfortable with a large and heavy case, I've been looking for an alternative to size everything down and make it easy to transport. It's the second time I'm building a water cooled computer and I've mostly reused my previous parts. Starting with the current specs: Water Cooling Loop: MO-RA3 420LT 5x Corsair ML 140 PRO blue
  17. I last replaced my rig in 2015. It was a water-cooled ncase-m1 build with a 4790k and a gtx970. She was a beautiful machine, but she's getting a little long in the tooth now. Anyway, about a week ago, I found a good deal on a used 3960x and trx40 motherboard. I decided to place a bid, and if I got the parts at a decent price I'd go forward with the build. I'm here so you can probably guess what happened. Ended up getting the board and CPU for £1100! The planned specs are as follows: 3960x Gigabyte trx40 aorus master 64GB 3600mhz memory 500GB sabrent
  18. Recently, while browsing for watercooling parts I have found quite bizzare, thick, 50mm size rads. I've been trying to find a reasonable usecase for those parts but I am out of ideas. Also how a tiny 50mm size fan would push any air through such a thick rad? Has anyone ever seen a case with a spot for such a radiator? Photos and name for reference: "Alphacool NexXxoS XT45 Full Copper 50mm Single radiator" Also they go up to 3 slots, 3x50mm fan?
  19. I want to hardline cool my pc and I have a Gigabyte GeForce RTX 2070 Windforce (2X), does anyone know if there are any waterblocks that I can use to do this?
  20. Hi! I built my custom loop about half a year ago. About a month ago, I noticed my tubes looking kind of cloudy, but temps were fine. (Tube clouding can be seen in the picture, second loop was done the same day and is still clear) Yesterday, I discovered weird bubbles in my waterblock, and higher temps as usual (60C instead of 40C running a Benchmark for 45 mins). However, after running the benchmark, the bubbles fade (look at the video attached, it's a time lapse of 45 mins during the benchmark). I already ordered new liquid to rinse the loop, and will pr
  21. Sup... first post. Be gentle ? I got into watercooling quite some time ago. Got my first WCed rig (8800GT SLI) way back in uhm... 2006 and ever since i never had any air cooler on my CPUs / GPUs ? Currently sitting on an i7-2600K (quite OK unit >>5GHz @ 4C/8T ezy pzy<<, got it from an overclocker from XtremeSystems who got it to 5.5GHz on LN2) and a GTX780 both sitting on MSI P67a-GD65 with 8GB RAM and bunch of drives. All in a BitFenix Shinobi XL with Thermochill PA360.3 (any old timer still remembers it and how much cooling potential it has?) and an EK 240 thick ra
  22. I'm having problems with petg tubing. It seems that after a few months of use (or less) the heat and pressure from the fittings deforms the petg tubing enough that it no longer provides a tight seal. The first picture (please excuse the dust) is the original setup. This was fine for for ~5 months normal operation before it started to leak. Because I didn't have a bunch more tubing lying around, I made some 'barbs'. I used this for 5 days before i noticed that some air getting into the system. The petg tubing once again shrunk and created a leak path. You c
  23. Build I finished about 3-4 months ago. Photo's then the specs: Case: Louke Ghost S1 MkII + 2 Large top hats MBoard: Asus ROG STRIX Z390-I GAMING CPU: Intel i7-8700k @5ghz GPU: EVGA GTX 1080ti RAM : Corsair 32GB 3200Mhz PSU: Silverstone SFX 800 W 80+ Titanium Memory: Samsung 960 Pro 512gb Cooling: Custom loop - 2 x 240 rads (one on the top with 2 noctua fans, one on the bottom with 2 EK Varder fans), EK-DDC 3.2 PWM (12V PWM pump), EK GTX1080ti block, EK Velocity C
  24. I have all my parts picked out for my first custom loop, and just want to clarify a couple of details with more experienced people before purchasing. The first is about test running the loop. I know that it is recommended to run the loop for a while (even a day) without the system powered on in order to check for leaks, but I am unclear how that is supposed to be done exactly. I don't believe that even with the pump drawing power from molex that it will work without the motherboard being turned on. I have this from my PSU box that I feel is related: but I would like clari
  25. saak

    Broken GPU

    I figured out that I would make my first water cooled computer but it didn't go to well. I accidentally dropped my MSI geforce 2080 super around 10cm on to the desk after I had taken on a water block. the desk was completely empty were it landed but this gray thing fell lose, I cant see any other damage. I tried to contact the store were I bought it but they couldn't do anything to help me. (so I guess it's trash) but dose anyone know if it is possible to solder it on again? and if I try that what are my chances for it to actually work properly?
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