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Corsair CX600 for $20?

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Before people come in here hating on the Corsair CX, this will not be for PC useIt will be powering a car amplifier for a subwoofer. No worries if PSU blows up, I got the amp for free anyways and it does have it's own built in over-current and overvoltage protection. Just wondering if this is a decent deal for what it is. Cause the only PSU I have laying around is a generic one only rated for 14A on 12V (168W) when the amp is rated for 250W RMS.

 

Is it a decent deal for a one month old CX600? Knowing me I don't really keep up with CX prices. Or CX in general. @STRMfrmXMN

"Rawr XD"

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I'd say it's pretty good, better than anything else for $20

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This should sufficiently tell you my opinion on the topic

 

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Go for it.

 

Corsair CX power supplies are not horrible, they are much better than some other options for the price, I myself am using a cx600m in my rig, no issues at all so far. (Constant use for nearly a year now)

Specs: CPU - Intel i7 8700K @ 5GHz | GPU - Gigabyte GTX 970 G1 Gaming | Motherboard - ASUS Strix Z370-G WIFI AC | RAM - XPG Gammix DDR4-3000MHz 32GB (2x16GB) | Main Drive - Samsung 850 Evo 500GB M.2 | Other Drives - 7TB/3 Drives | CPU Cooler - Corsair H100i Pro | Case - Fractal Design Define C Mini TG | Power Supply - EVGA G3 850W

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Wait wait wait wait, why the fuck are you using a pc psu for a car amp? You do know you have a battery and an alternator to keep the battery charged right?

Sky Pollution | i5 3570k @4.8Ghz | MSi z77a g45 | MSi GTX 770 Gaming 2gb | Samsung 840 Evo 250gb, Samsung OEM 500gb HDD | Corsair CX750m | Corsair 760t White Edition |
Corsair M95 | SuperLux 668b's | Logitech C615 | ViewSonic VX2250wm | Random OEM keyboard until I rage break it and grab another random OEM keyboard from my pile.
Build Log: http://linustechtips.com/main/topic/186413-sky-pollution-my-white-760t-build-rebuildupgrade/

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Wait wait wait wait, why the fuck are you using a pc psu for a car amp? You do know you have a battery and an alternator to keep the battery charged right?

Because he can, he was asking if it was a good deal, not a stupid comment.

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Wait wait wait wait, why the fuck are you using a pc psu for a car amp? You do know you have a battery and an alternator to keep the battery charged right?

It was in my old Jetta, I took it out before I sold it and now I have an Equinox with factory subwoofer. 

 

A battery and battery charger would cost me more then $20, and I've run car amps and CD decks off PC PSUs before with no issues. It's just that I don't have a PSU laying around at the moment that is powerful enough for this amp, since I'd like to hook it up to the home theater system and have it cranked up a decent amount.

 

A helpful comment to actually answer the question stated in the OP would be nice.

"Rawr XD"

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Even if it was for pc it would be a good deal so why even post this?

Forgive me El Guapo. I know that I, Jefe, do not have your superior intellect and education...

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Even if it was for pc it would be a good deal so why even post this?

Eh, I'm sure if I looked hard enough I could get a deal on a better unit if I wanted it for PC use. Like the one I have now, I paid $15 for my Antec NeoHE 550 (made by Seasonic), which I'd take over a CX600 any day.

"Rawr XD"

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Corsair CX power supplies are not horrible, they are much better than some other options for the price, I myself am using a cx600m in my rig, no issues at all so far. (Constant use for nearly a year now)

How thick is the wiring on the CPU power connector? (Seeing as it's the only fixed cable on the modular version aside from the 24pin)

"Rawr XD"

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-SNIP-

 

I assume you'll be running a car inverter then plugging the in the PSU to power the Sub, there are some good DC-DC converters if you need to power speakers in a vehicle but for a CX600 at $20 you can't really go wrong there.

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I assume you'll be running a car inverter then plugging the in the PSU to power the Sub, there are some good DC-DC converters if you need to power speakers in a vehicle but for a CX600 at $20 you can't really go wrong there.

I'm just planning to use the car amp+sub in my house lol, which is why I need a PSU to supply 12V power. If I wanted to use it in my car, I could just hook it up directly the battery (as it was intended to be).

"Rawr XD"

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How thick is the wiring on the CPU power connector? (Seeing as it's the only fixed cable on the modular version aside from the 24pin)

 

Ehh.. same thickness as the 24-pin. (Idk the gauge of it, nor do I want to stick parts of it in my wire strippers to see lol, but I'd guess around 14 gauge? maybe slightly smaller.)

Specs: CPU - Intel i7 8700K @ 5GHz | GPU - Gigabyte GTX 970 G1 Gaming | Motherboard - ASUS Strix Z370-G WIFI AC | RAM - XPG Gammix DDR4-3000MHz 32GB (2x16GB) | Main Drive - Samsung 850 Evo 500GB M.2 | Other Drives - 7TB/3 Drives | CPU Cooler - Corsair H100i Pro | Case - Fractal Design Define C Mini TG | Power Supply - EVGA G3 850W

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Ehh.. same thickness as the 24-pin. (Idk the gauge of it, nor do I want to stick parts of it in my wire strippers to see lol, but I'd guess around 14 gauge? maybe slightly smaller.)

Jonnyguru forums seem to say that it's 18AWG, so rated for 7A each wire. The four 12V on the CPU connector should theoretically be able to handle 336W then, which should be more then enough for my usage.

"Rawr XD"

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Eh, I'm sure if I looked hard enough I could get a deal on a better unit if I wanted it for PC use. Like the one I have now, I paid $15 for my Antec NeoHE 550 (made by Seasonic), which I'd take over a CX600 any day.

Should not "Eh" come at the end of your canadian sentence? Anyways the price you paid for a 1 month old psu is well below msrp, we are not to be expected to be some bargain basement psu purchasers that corner the market on used psu's.

Forgive me El Guapo. I know that I, Jefe, do not have your superior intellect and education...

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Jonnyguru forums seem to say that it's 18AWG, so rated for 7A each wire. The four 12V on the CPU connector should theoretically be able to handle 336W then, which should be more then enough for my usage.

 

It's got a 4+4pin cpu power connector, so there should be more than enough to go around :P

Specs: CPU - Intel i7 8700K @ 5GHz | GPU - Gigabyte GTX 970 G1 Gaming | Motherboard - ASUS Strix Z370-G WIFI AC | RAM - XPG Gammix DDR4-3000MHz 32GB (2x16GB) | Main Drive - Samsung 850 Evo 500GB M.2 | Other Drives - 7TB/3 Drives | CPU Cooler - Corsair H100i Pro | Case - Fractal Design Define C Mini TG | Power Supply - EVGA G3 850W

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Because he can, he was asking if it was a good deal, not a stupid comment.

Oh look, a 13 year old being a smart ass about some one making a "stupid comment" by making a fucking stupid comment. Good one kid.

 

It was in my old Jetta, I took it out before I sold it and now I have an Equinox with factory subwoofer. 

 

A battery and battery charger would cost me more then $20, and I've run car amps and CD decks off PC PSUs before with no issues. It's just that I don't have a PSU laying around at the moment that is powerful enough for this amp, since I'd like to hook it up to the home theater system and have it cranked up a decent amount.

 

A helpful comment to actually answer the question stated in the OP would be nice.

Well you should specify that the amp and sub are no longer going to be used in the car. Just saying it is going to be used for a car amp and sub will make most people assume it is still being used inside the car. Which is why I asked why the hell you were going to use a psu when you could just run power from the battery in the car.

 

Back on topic though yes that is a good deal for that psu but as far as using a pc psu to power a car audio amp and sub then I can't say. I've always done my audio setups in my car with proper high gauge wire and a proper 14v being supplied from alternator.

Sky Pollution | i5 3570k @4.8Ghz | MSi z77a g45 | MSi GTX 770 Gaming 2gb | Samsung 840 Evo 250gb, Samsung OEM 500gb HDD | Corsair CX750m | Corsair 760t White Edition |
Corsair M95 | SuperLux 668b's | Logitech C615 | ViewSonic VX2250wm | Random OEM keyboard until I rage break it and grab another random OEM keyboard from my pile.
Build Log: http://linustechtips.com/main/topic/186413-sky-pollution-my-white-760t-build-rebuildupgrade/

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Before people come in here hating on the Corsair CX, this will not be for PC useIt will be powering a car amplifier for a subwoofer. No worries if PSU blows up, I got the amp for free anyways and it does have it's own built in over-current and overvoltage protection. Just wondering if this is a decent deal for what it is. Cause the only PSU I have laying around is a generic one only rated for 14A on 12V (168W) when the amp is rated for 250W RMS.

 

Is it a decent deal for a one month old CX600? Knowing me I don't really keep up with CX prices. Or CX in general. @STRMfrmXMN

As long as you have enough amperage on the major rails I don't see why not. The CX600 is usually closer to 50 or 60 bucks.

 

EDIT: Also, it's a 20 dollar PSU so if it can't power the thing that you need it to there isn't a ton of risk to it. If you lose the PSU then welp, it's dead. Corsair may even refund it if you power it on and it goes up in flames.

|PSU Tier List /80 Plus Efficiency| PSU stuff if you need it. 

My system: PCPartPicker || For Corsair support tag @Corsair Josephor @Corsair Nick || My 5MT Legacy GT Wagon ||

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As long as you have enough amperage on the major rails I don't see why not. The CX600 is usually closer to 50 or 60 bucks.

 

EDIT: Also, it's a 20 dollar PSU so if it can't power the thing that you need it to there isn't a ton of risk to it. If you lose the PSU then welp, it's dead. Corsair may even refund it if you power it on and it goes up in flames.

I only need the 12V rail and around 21A on it, while the CX600 can supply 46, so I should be fine :)

"Rawr XD"

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I only need the 12V rail and around 21A on it, while the CX600 can supply 46, so I should be fine :)

It's 20 bucks, I don't see why not.

|PSU Tier List /80 Plus Efficiency| PSU stuff if you need it. 

My system: PCPartPicker || For Corsair support tag @Corsair Josephor @Corsair Nick || My 5MT Legacy GT Wagon ||

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