An Idiot Builds Custom Loop: Noob Questions

[Hurin]

Rather than create thread after thread per question, I decided to convert this last one into my "idiot's build log."  I'll preserve the original question below though. . .
 

GOALS:  Near-silence, then performance.

 

COMPONENTS

• Corsair 7000D Airflow (moving over an air-cooled system from a Corsair 5000D Airflow that I now regret purchasing)
• Cosair XD5 RGB pump/reservoir w/ plastic bottom removed and mounted to EK rubber decoupler and 120mm bracket
• Three Corsair XR5 360mm radiators
• Corsair flexible tubing and fittings
• Nine Noctua NF-F12 fans for radiators (yikes)
• EK-Quantum Velocity2 D-RGB - 1700 Water Block - Nickel + Plexi
• GPU Block - TBD (looking for a coil whine-free nvidia 40-series may have found one!)
• EK Cryofuel clear concetrate (yet to use)

 

RESULTS SO FAR:  Pump is even quieter than I had hoped (much quieter than AIO whose noise began this odyssey).

 

 

LESSONS LEARNED

 

Corsair 7000D radiator fitment

Even in the large 7000D, things are still a tight fit.  Now that I've fit three 360mm radiators, I'd never try using even a single 480.  Seems like there would just be a terrible struggle at top between fittings going against the front panel cable bundles (etc.).  With the three 360s, it's already extremely tight.  I could not use the noctua spacers for the fans or the side and front radiators would collide.  You'll have room for the 25mm thick fans, the standard thickness radiators (30mm?), and nothing else (though I was able to still use the included rubber vibration dampers that come with the fans).  When things do fit, the radiators+fans "fold in" on top of each other, overlapping.  I hope the fans don't create a strange vortex (hopefully they'll never need to run fast enough for this to be a problem).

 

Corsair 7000D quirk
I wanted my front 360 radiator to be in that "nest" on the ouside of the front bracket (still inside the dust filter).  However, with the fittings pointed inwards, only one side's fitting was conflicting with the bracket, right where the o-ring sit (no bueno!).  I used and angle grinder to take out just one small portion of the struts that form the bracket to make this work.

 

 

REMAINING NOOB QUESTIONS

 

New Radiator Flush Procedure Correct/Enough?

I flushed all three radiator with 10% distilled vinegar and hot (130f) distilled water.  I performed the fill+shake+wait10minutes+shake+empty procedure 3-4 times on each radiator and was still seeing small bits of sediment come out.  So I decided to start the distilled water rinsing.  After rinsing 4-5 times each, there were still occasional bits (not large) coming out.  Is this pretty standard?  I've got the loop built now with just the pump and the radiators in the case (no computer components) and I'm thinking I could buy a filter and run it a couple days to catch what's left.  Is that going too far?  I tend to get perfectionist about this stuff so someone "waving me off" would be appreciated! 

 

How long can I run with just distilled water?

As mentioned previously, I have just the radiators and pump hooked up and it's running pure distilled water as of this morning.  I've got some EK clear cryofuel concentrate but I don't want to waste it on just a test.  How long can I "test" like this before I should start expecting trouble for not having anti-corrosion/microbials treatment in the loop?

 

Seal Reservoir While Testing?

Should I remove my fill tube+fitting and "seal" the top of the pump/reservoir while it runs these tests?  Or does it being open to the air help with allowing air to work its way out?  Obviously, I won't tilt the case while it's open!

 

Thanks!

 

--H

 

 

---------------------------ORIGINAL POST----------------------------------------------------

 

Hi All,

 

I've got all my parts for my first custom loop.  But, it occurred to me, I like to put my case on its "back" whenever I swap a video card or work on anything.  Just seems more natural.

 

Once I have everything for my custom loop installed, sealed, and all three radiators plumbed up. . . do I need to be careful about putting the case on its side.  I guess not, but I thought I'd ask.  Worst case, some air from the reservoir might get circulated through loop a bit and eventually have to work its way out and back into the top of the res again?

 

Sorry for noobishness!  We all start somewhere!

 

--H

[Skiiwee29]

as long as its not on and running when you do it its fine. You may have some air push through the loop like when you first installed and bleed it, but like normal, should bleed the air out in about a weeks time.

[Mick Naughty]

Sometimes I build mine to be bled or filled while on their back. 
Even then I till mine pretty far while running to bleed them. Sit them on their side or face all the time. Smaller cases I lift up and spin around. 

[For Science!]

if you built the loop ok, then it is fine.

[Hurin]

Thanks for the replies!  Please note that I've converted this into a more general thread where I can indulge more noobishness and ask more questions (in the OP).  Thanks again!  --H

[Hurin]

Some photos of the overall testing/rough setup and the "overlapping" happening with the radiators/fans in the front.

 

I'm sorely tempted to even up the front and side radiators and go rigid tubing so it'll just be nice 90-degree bends there.

 

Please pardon the fill tube still being present and blocking the view.  And that's my drain tube (with ball valve) dangling off the bottom.

 

[Hurin]

REMAINING NOOB QUESTIONS

 

New Radiator Flush Procedure Correct/Enough?

I flushed all three radiator with 10% distilled vinegar and hot (130f) distilled water.  I performed the fill+shake+wait10minutes+shake+empty procedure 3-4 times on each radiator and was still seeing small bits of sediment come out.  So I decided to start the distilled water rinsing.  After rinsing 4-5 times each, there were still occasional bits (not large) coming out.  Is this pretty standard?  I've got the loop built now with just the pump and the radiators in the case (no computer components) and I'm thinking I could buy a filter and run it a couple days to catch what's left.  Is that going too far?  I tend to get perfectionist about this stuff so someone "waving me off" would be appreciated!

 

How long can I run with just distilled water?

As mentioned previously, I have just the radiators and pump hooked up and it's running pure distilled water as of this morning.  I've got some EK clear cryofuel concentrate but I don't want to waste it on just a test.  How long can I "test" like this before I should start expecting trouble for not having anti-corrosion/microbials treatment in the loop?

 

Seal Reservoir While Testing?

Should I remove my fill tube+fitting and "seal" the top of the pump/reservoir while it runs these tests?  Or does it being open to the air help with allowing air to work its way out?  Obviously, I won't tilt the case while it's open!

[For Science!]

On 2/12/2023 at 8:44 PM, Hurin said:

REMAINING NOOB QUESTIONS

 

New Radiator Flush Procedure Correct/Enough?

Depends on brand and state of radiator, but generally I do not recommend using vinegar. Either just water-only, or go all the way and get a proper cleaning and neutralization kit (e.g. Mayhems Blitz Part 1 and 2).

 

How long can I run with just distilled water?

Since you don't have any waterblocks at the moment in the loop, basically indefinitely. Apart from mixed metals, the first thing to start getting damaged is nickel plating. So until you put those in in my opinin distilled water is ok

 

Seal Reservoir While Testing?

Doesn't matter, opening it will just prevent air pressure buildup in the loop but that's never major. Leaving it open will have more evaporation and thus waterloss;

 

[Hurin]

Had a bit of a mishap.  Decided to add an in-line filter to remove any loose, left-over debris from the radiators while I wait for my gpu water block to become available.  While I was draining and replacing the fluid, I decided to use one of the EK Clear Cryofuel Concentrate bottles I bought.  I mixed it with 900ML of distilled water and added it into the loop via the fill port at top of reservoir per usual. . .

 

. . . and it immediately coated the entire reservoir with a opaque, milky film.  As well as most of the Corsair flexible tubing.

 

I let it run for a few hours in hopes that it would clear up.  But I eventually decided to purge the system, remove the radiators, flush them with 10% vinegar (then three distilled rinses), take apart the corsair pump/res and clean it, and replace the tubing.  With all that accomplished, things are apparently back to normal and the loop is running crystal-clear again with no additives.  Google seems to indicate I'm not the first one this has happened to. . . but I honestly don't know why it happened.  Bad batch of EK clear concentrate?  Incompatible tubing and reservoir material?  Oh, I should mention that the filter (put in at the same time as the EK cryofuel concentrate) came out with quite a bit of grey mushy gunk in it, blocking flow quite a bit.  Don't know what to make of it, but I do know I'm switching brands of additive now!

 

--H

[Mick Naughty]

Sounds like all of the clear tubing I've ever tired. Had the weird, grey/white film clog my bits power rads. Swapped to corsairs stuff. Havent had the clogging issues but I only use ek zmt hose now.

[Hurin]

Well, it's finally time.  Got a gpu that has minimum (though still present) coil whine, and so I finally was able to get its block.  The final loop build is imminent.  Who knew this would take months!?!

 

Anyways, one minor concern. . . no matter how many times I flush out my radiators (corsair 360s), I still get occasional flecks.  I even hooked each of them up to a screen/mesh filter and ran them individually for hours on my pump with the filter as the last fitting before the pump return. . . and I still get some small flakes/bit when I shake out the radiator(s).

 

I'd like to avoid harsh chemicals and wearing PPE just to flush brand new rads.  So, is this normal (the rads, not my wanting to avoid chemicals!)?

 

If it does end up being an issue, I'm just looking at block disassembly on the gpu and cpu to clear out any clutter, right?

 

--H

[Mick Naughty]

Well you could add filters. It’s normal to get stuff but I only do a few flushes. Normally forget to do it on all builds. 
but given the hoses I use used to clog my blocks, I’d just take it all apart in a year and clean the blocks. 
I only do hot water but most people say to use vinegar. I only use a chemical like CLR when rads are stained from coolants. 

[ApolloX75]

19 minutes ago, Hurin said:

Well, it's finally time.  Got a gpu that has minimum (though still present) coil whine, and so I finally was able to get its block.  The final loop build is imminent.  Who knew this would take months!?!

 

Anyways, one minor concern. . . no matter how many times I flush out my radiators (corsair 360s), I still get occasional flecks.  I even hooked each of them up to a screen/mesh filter and ran them individually for hours on my pump with the filter as the last fitting before the pump return. . . and I still get some small flakes/bit when I shake out the radiator(s).

 

I'd like to avoid harsh chemicals and wearing PPE just to flush brand new rads.  So, is this normal (the rads, not my wanting to avoid chemicals!)?

 

If it does end up being an issue, I'm just looking at block disassembly on the gpu and cpu to clear out any clutter, right?

 

--H

I've got more than a few different styles of Corsair rads and I've never gotten flakes out of them. Odd.

 

Also Corsair soft tubing is absolute garbage. It will kink if you look at it funny. Hell I had a whole loop kink after sitting for a week with no usage. It also clouds over if you put anything other than water in the loop. EK Cryofuel is typically very good but it does not play well with the Corsair crap tubing. Nothing really does.

 

Corsair rads and fittings are pretty darn good I have found, I do believe most; if not all, of the rads are versions of Hardware Labs models. Their XC series of blocks are... ok, so good on you for going with the EK one. The Corsair pump/reservoir combos are passable, if overpriced. Wish I'd caught your post ages ago, I've been testing and working with Corsair stuff for the last year or so, I would have warned about the tubing earlier.

 

Best soft tubing I've ever worked with (available in Canada anyway) is available from Dazmode, the v.3 Clear tubing. I do believe a version of it is available from Performance PCs. Also if you want a coolant additive that won't stain or cloud, Dazmode Protector is incredibly good and I know for a fact Performance PCs carries it. It is compatible with dyes if you want colour, but it works flawlessly on it's own as well.

 

1 minute ago, Mick Naughty said:

Normally forget to do it on all builds. 

Myself as well! Never had an issue though. 

[Hurin]

It is (finally!) done.  What started as a holiday project is finally finished three months later!

 

GPU temps are down from low 80s to a max of 58c in any benchmark I throw at it.  My 13700K (at 5.5GHz all-cores, 5.7GHz two-core load) no longer thermal throttles during 30 minute Cinebench runs (though I still come within a degree or two of doing so).  If I run the system loud (fans and pump at 100%) I gain even more headroom.

 

Here's a quick video that goes over the quirks I encountered with fitting three 360mm radiators in the 7000D.  Just in case it helps anyone.

 

Thanks again to everyone who helped this custom loop noob out!

 

--H

[Hurin]

Something that I failed to mention that I thought was neato. . .

 

When I set up my fan curves in the Asus BIOS via q-fan. . . when I chose T_sensor (the temperature sensor header, which is connected to the Corsair fluid temperature sensor inserted into the reservoir), it had the happy side-effect of causing the Q-Code LED readout on the motherboard show the fluid temperature after POST (while in Windows, etc.).

 

That was pretty cool. . . just being able to look over and see the fluid temperature at a glance.

 

Unfortunately, the latest BIOS update undid this and now only the CPU temp will appear.  I've reset CMOS and done everything I used to do.  And now when I google it, I don't see this as an actual feature anywhere.  So maybe it was a mistake in the prior BIOS for it to show the temp probe value at all!

 

I might get the energy to post this on the ROG forums some day. . . *shrug*