Jump to content
Search In
  • More options...
Find results that contain...
Find results in...


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited


This user doesn't have any awards

About ApolloX75

  • Title
  • Birthday Dec 05, 1986

Contact Methods

  • Xbox Live

Profile Information

  • Location
    Ontario, Canada
  • Gender
  • Interests
    I tinker with various hardware; build boats; restore a classic (to me) car and drive a Camaro a lot. I do a lot of things.
  • Biography
    I worked for an engineering firm building large industrial line production robots. It was pretty awesome, but then became boring. So I went back to building boats. I'm an Electrical Technician by trade and an amateur mechanic as well. I have abandoned my stale marine career and have been invited to join a dealership team as an apprentice, we'll see how this plays out.

    I've been a computer tech both semi-professionally and amateur for the better part of a decade, and I built my first real gaming system in 2000 out of an Athlon Thunderbird and a Diamond Stealth 3.
  • Occupation
    Mechanic Apprentice


  • CPU
    Intel Core i7 9700K
  • Motherboard
    Alienware Area 51M R1 Z370
  • RAM
    2x8GB DDR4 2400MHz
  • GPU
    Alienware RTX 2080
  • Case
    Alienware Area 51M R1 Lunar Light
  • Storage
    XPG Gammix S11 1TB, Intel 660p 1TB, Adata SU800 1TB
  • PSU
    Dual brick (180W+330W)
  • Display(s)
    17" Alienware 1920x1080 144Hz
  • Cooling
    It's an Alienware. It's lava.
  • Keyboard
  • Mouse
    Logitech G603 Wireless
  • Sound
    Logitech G933 Artemis
  • Operating System
    Windows 10 Pro X64

Recent Profile Visitors

3,616 profile views
  1. Well consider that the 2080 released September of 2018 and the mobile version followed about six months later or so (early-ish 2019) I expect we'll see a similar if not longer timeline given the heat and power requirements the 3000 series has. So I'd say based on nVidia's history give it til March or April of 2021 before we even begin seeing information creep out about the mobile versions. And don't expect the average joe manufacturers to get their hands on the first batch. I figure it'll be Dell, MSI and Clevo who see the first units and provide the first models out the door with them.
  2. 71C on hottest core? Nothing to worry about. Keep it under 100C and you're golden with Intel's little fireballs.
  3. Ha. No. Just because they are designed to operate at that temperature doesn't mean they should. Cooler the better and cooler is achievable in almost every instance. Throttlestop or Intel XTU will allow you to undervolt (assuming your system hasn't been patched out thanks to plundervolt) and reduce your system temps drastically. Even a relatively tame undervolt of say -0.100V will make remarkable changes to your day to day system operation. XTU is more user friendly than Throttlestop, but both are relatively intuitive and there's a lot of guides to follow on youtube and the
  4. You can use a card like this one (for example), like I said cheap insurance. One thing you can do to test the theory is disable the wireless card altogether in Device Manager (or hardware switch if your laptop has one) and see if your problem either disappears or at least improves. *Edit: I have had some thoughts. Now hear me out. Try Linux Mint, loaded onto a bootable flash drive it won't overtake your primary OS at all and will allow you to test the system quickly. See if your issues disappear in that, it's a nice light weight and easy to use Linux distro that feels a lot like Wi
  5. M15 R3s are excellent, however things to beware of when buying an Alienware: 1. They run HOT. Super hot. You need to undervolt them pretty heftily to keep them from throttling and you need to be comfortable with that fact. 2. Lunar light is a stain magnet even with the clear coat. 3. Soldered RAM. The R3s have soldered RAM and cannot be upgraded. I can attest to this as I have owned a 15 R3 and currently own an Area 51M, both of which required hefty tweaking and a lot of work to get running 100% all the time with no issues and I did a lot of research when sele
  6. I have an R1, can say they are a monster of a laptop and very solid performers. That being said as for the R2 model, it's even more of a beast but in order to achieve 120+ FPS at ultra settings it's gonna take a 2080 Super equipped model. You can cut the cost down a bit by configuring the 10700K instead of the 10900, that'll save a good chunk of change. You can opt for just a single boot drive and add your additional drives in for a lot less as the markup from Dell on SSDs and HDDs is stupid high. This also applies to RAM but beware as the R2 only has two RAM slots so don't plan on
  7. Most, if not all, A78 chipset boards are PCIE 3.0 from what I can find.
  8. Ah I didn't see the mention of 7 being the start of the issue. I haven't used 7 on my laptop in a long time, so I can't confirm if I had the issue back then or not. Like I said, it's cheap insurance. I think I got my new card for about $20 CDN. I mean I'm not going to say it's your issue for sure; but I've fixed a couple older laptops that had this issue (using Windows 10) in the last year or two, so if anything it could be worth a shot if you can't find anything else causing the problem.
  9. My MSI GT780DXR; which is a little older than your system (2010), used to have this issue. Turned out to be the wireless card. Apparently older Wireless N cards in laptops have limited compatibility with Windows 10 and many have strange issues with it. I swapped my card out for a newer Intel 7260HW based Wireless AC card and the system now runs flawlessly again. It took a LOT of researching and hunting to figure this issue out with my laptop as it had no overheating and has an SSD. Key symptoms to look for were any time I had a heavy download going; or Steam updating, the system lag would incr
  10. They typically stop working altogether. I think you've got a bad pump at this point as everything points to that. Do you still have your stock cooler that came with the 2600? You could try switching to that temporarily to see if your issue is solved.
  11. Delete all those partitions, then select the now empty drive space and click next.
  12. Put the Sandisk drive as number 1 and reboot.
  13. Heh, I've had this exact issue with my old MSI GT780DXR, which is a sandy bridge based ten year old unit as well. It's most likely your wireless card. There's a conflict between WIndows 10 and older wireless N cards that causes system hangs, random dips and freezes during operation and general stuttering typically when the card is under heavy load with lots of up/down streams at the same time. Steam or other hefty clients that use a lot of bandwidth are the best for indicating this issue in my experience. Anyways I solved my personal system issue by swapping the old Wir
  14. Download the Microsoft Windows 10 media creation tool, use it with an 8GB+ USB stick to create a new bootable installer. Then fresh install using your new bootable Windows 10 USB stick on a new or empty hard drive using the PC that you are installing the hard drive into. That should solve your problem. Typically taking a hard drive with an existing windows installation and jamming it into a different system with a completely different hardware makeup does not work.
  15. You can never copy someone elses overclocking settings word for word. Every CPU is capable of different things at different settings and you need to test; tune and tweak until you find the settings your CPU needs to be overclocked properly. So tweak your voltage up a bit first and go from there. Use the settings they provide as a springboard to find your own tune, not as an absolute.