Jump to content

Looking for a better cooler [Solved]

Laeven

Hi there!

 

I'm currently running a Ryzen 5950x on a Asus ROG Crosshair VIII Hero 570x, using a Corsair H100i elite capellix, inside a Corsair 4000X Mid-Tower case.

The radiator is mounted on the top of the case.

I have 4 additional 120mm fans, 3 in the front and 1 in the back.

 

I built my rig in early 2021 and back then while doing some testing, I was able to get a 4.6Ghz overclock on all cores without it overheating and crashing.

These days, If I were to push all cores to 100% OR attempt to shutdown my computer it would crash with computer complaining the CPU is overheating.

 

Is the Corsair H100i elite capellix just a terrible AIO?

Are there any better options for passive/AIO cooling?

I'm not too interested in air coolers because I'm not comfortable with a big hunk of metal hanging off the motherboard.

 

Any help would be greatly appreciated! Thanks!

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

Any idea what a motherboard is made of?  Do some research.

 

That AIO is only a 240mm, so opt for a 360.  Fractal, Thermaltake, etc. many of them out there, they're all very similar as they use the same pump design for the most part.

 

 

"Do what makes the experience better" - in regards to PCs and Life itself.

 

Onyx AMD Ryzen 7 7800x3d / MSI 6900xt Gaming X Trio / Gigabyte B650 AORUS Pro AX / G. Skill Flare X5 6000CL36 32GB / Samsung 980 1TB x3 / Super Flower Leadex V Platinum Pro 850 / EK-AIO 360 Basic / Fractal Design North XL (black mesh) / AOC AGON 35" 3440x1440 100Hz / Mackie CR5BT / Corsair Virtuoso SE / Cherry MX Board 3.0 / Logitech G502

 

7800X3D - PBO -30 all cores, 4.90GHz all core, 5.05GHz single core, 18286 C23 multi, 1779 C23 single

 

Emma : i9 9900K @5.1Ghz - Gigabyte AORUS 1080Ti - Gigabyte AORUS Z370 Gaming 5 - G. Skill Ripjaws V 32GB 3200CL16 - 750 EVO 512GB + 2x 860 EVO 1TB (RAID0) - EVGA SuperNova 650 P2 - Thermaltake Water 3.0 Ultimate 360mm - Fractal Design Define R6 - TP-Link AC1900 PCIe Wifi

 

Raven: AMD Ryzen 5 5600x3d - ASRock B550M Pro4 - G. Skill Ripjaws V 16GB 3200Mhz - XFX Radeon RX6650XT - Samsung 980 1TB + Crucial MX500 1TB - TP-Link AC600 USB Wifi - Gigabyte GP-P450B PSU -  Cooler Master MasterBox Q300L -  Samsung 27" 1080p

 

Plex : AMD Ryzen 5 5600 - Gigabyte B550M AORUS Elite AX - G. Skill Ripjaws V 16GB 2400Mhz - MSI 1050Ti 4GB - Crucial P3 Plus 500GB + WD Red NAS 4TBx2 - TP-Link AC1200 PCIe Wifi - EVGA SuperNova 650 P2 - ASUS Prime AP201 - Spectre 24" 1080p

 

Steam Deck 512GB OLED

 

OnePlus: 

OnePlus 11 5G - 16GB RAM, 256GB NAND, Eternal Green

OnePlus Buds Pro 2 - Eternal Green

 

Other Tech:

- 2021 Volvo S60 Recharge T8 Polestar Engineered - 415hp/495tq 2.0L 4cyl. turbocharged, supercharged and electrified.

Lenovo 720S Touch 15.6" - i7 7700HQ, 16GB RAM 2400MHz, 512GB NVMe SSD, 1050Ti, 4K touchscreen

MSI GF62 15.6" - i7 7700HQ, 16GB RAM 2400 MHz, 256GB NVMe SSD + 1TB 7200rpm HDD, 1050Ti

- Ubiquiti Amplifi HD mesh wifi

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

19 minutes ago, Dedayog said:

Any idea what a motherboard is made of?  Do some research.

 

That AIO is only a 240mm, so opt for a 360.  Fractal, Thermaltake, etc. many of them out there, they're all very similar as they use the same pump design for the most part.

 

 

If you wanna oc abit higher maybe a 420 or 480mm aio if those exist or just go full custom water cooling

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

Don't overclock; undervolt instead. Zen 3, especially, can do better boosting on its own than you can achieve with an all core OC. You just need to give it the power and thermal headroom to do so.

CPU: AMD Ryzen 9 5900X · Cooler: Artic Liquid Freezer II 280 · Motherboard: MSI MEG X570 Unify · RAM: G.skill Ripjaws V 2x16GB 3600MHz CL16 (2Rx8) · Graphics Card: ASUS GeForce RTX 3060 Ti TUF Gaming · Boot Drive: 500GB WD Black SN750 M.2 NVMe SSD · Game Drive: 2TB Crucial MX500 SATA SSD · PSU: Corsair White RM850x 850W 80+ Gold · Case: Corsair 4000D Airflow · Monitor: MSI Optix MAG342CQR 34” UWQHD 3440x1440 144Hz · Keyboard: Corsair K100 RGB Optical-Mechanical Gaming Keyboard (OPX Switch) · Mouse: Corsair Ironclaw RGB Wireless Gaming Mouse

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

17 minutes ago, Somerandomtechyboi said:

If you wanna oc abit higher maybe a 420 or 480mm aio if those exist or just go full custom water cooling

The only 420mm AIO that exists is the Artic Liquid Freezer II. I dont believe any 480mm exists. 

 

However, suggestions like this fail to take into account the case being used: the 4000D can only hold up to a 360mm RAD, so suggesting anything larger is ineffective for their situation. 

"Put as much effort into your question as you'd expect someone to give in an answer"- @Princess Luna

Make sure to Quote posts or tag the person with @[username] so they know you responded to them!

 RGB Build Post 2019 --- Rainbow 🦆 2020 --- Velka 5 V2.0 Build 2021

Purple Build Post ---  Blue Build Post --- Blue Build Post 2018 --- Project ITNOS

CPU i7-4790k    Motherboard Gigabyte Z97N-WIFI    RAM G.Skill Sniper DDR3 1866mhz    GPU EVGA GTX1080Ti FTW3    Case Corsair 380T   

Storage Samsung EVO 250GB, Samsung EVO 1TB, WD Black 3TB, WD Black 5TB    PSU Corsair CX750M    Cooling Cryorig H7 with NF-A12x25

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

On 6/24/2021 at 2:50 PM, Dedayog said:

Any idea what a motherboard is made of?  Do some research.

 

That AIO is only a 240mm, so opt for a 360.  Fractal, Thermaltake, etc. many of them out there, they're all very similar as they use the same pump design for the most part.

 

 

Yes, a motherboard is made of mostly fibreglass and copper. I also cannot install a 360mm radiator on the roof of the case which is where my current one is. While there is space for it on the front, I would not be able to mount it correctly with the tubes going down because my 3090 is too long.

 

On 6/24/2021 at 3:11 PM, Somerandomtechyboi said:

If you wanna oc abit higher maybe a 420 or 480mm aio if those exist or just go full custom water cooling

This case does not have room for a triple 140mm or a quadruple 120mm rad. I mentioned the case in the original post for this reason. Ideally, I would not want to go full custom water cooling as I'd like to keep the build simple so its easier to perform maintenance.

 

On 6/24/2021 at 3:19 PM, Chris Pratt said:

Don't overclock; undervolt instead. Zen 3, especially, can do better boosting on its own than you can achieve with an all core OC. You just need to give it the power and thermal headroom to do so.

Yes I will try going around 1.2 volts instead of the default 1.4 and see how that goes. Thankyou!

 

On 6/24/2021 at 3:30 PM, TVwazhere said:

The only 420mm AIO that exists is the Artic Liquid Freezer II. I dont believe any 480mm exists. 

 

However, suggestions like this fail to take into account the case being used: the 4000D can only hold up to a 360mm RAD, so suggesting anything larger is ineffective for their situation. 

Yes, although If need be, I might opt to go for a 280mm Arctic Freezer II AIO in the roof.

 

It has occurred to me however that the heat the GPU is spitting out might also play a factor in the CPU not being able to be cooled well enough given that some of its heat will pass through the radiator as well.

 

I'm wondering if I should go for something like the Corsair 5000D which allows for a triple radiator in the top and at the side, except the top has fans in a push and pull configuration. 

image.thumb.png.2681cddb874072c2a84ca6527008285a.png

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

When you mount AIO's in the top and maybe you have it as exhaust.

 

It can be alot of "C's" to gain by doing frontmount as intake, and fans in push (push/pull can give you 1-2c )

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

My 5950x pbo-auto is topping out at 79c with my 5000D case decked out with A12x25 fans & a Noctua DH-15 air cooler

Im seeing 4800-5001mhz max on all cores with hwmonitor/142.11w usage max/1.525v

System Specs: AMD 5950x PBO-AutoNoctua DH-15 Black | Gigabyte x570 MasterEVGA 3080FTW3 Ultra | (2x16gb) G.Skill Royal 3600mhz CL18 | Corsair 5000D Airflow (Black) Samsung 980 Pro 2TB & Firecuda 520 1TB & Crucial MX500 2tb850W Corsair RMX | 2 Noctua A14 CPU, 6 Noctua A12x25 Intake, 3x Noctua F12 Top Exhaust, 1x Noctua A12x25 Back Exhaust

Monitors: (Main) LG Ultragear 34" 2k Ultrawide 144hz IPS '34GP83A-B' (Side) Acer Predator 27" 2k 144hz TN 'Abmiprz'

Peripherals: Corsair K100 OPX | Logitech G502 Lightspeed | Corsair Virtuoso SE | Audioengine A2+

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

Don't overlook good fans, I don't have scientific numbers but i swear these noctuas are pushing 2-4x as much air as the stock 5000D case fan did.

System Specs: AMD 5950x PBO-AutoNoctua DH-15 Black | Gigabyte x570 MasterEVGA 3080FTW3 Ultra | (2x16gb) G.Skill Royal 3600mhz CL18 | Corsair 5000D Airflow (Black) Samsung 980 Pro 2TB & Firecuda 520 1TB & Crucial MX500 2tb850W Corsair RMX | 2 Noctua A14 CPU, 6 Noctua A12x25 Intake, 3x Noctua F12 Top Exhaust, 1x Noctua A12x25 Back Exhaust

Monitors: (Main) LG Ultragear 34" 2k Ultrawide 144hz IPS '34GP83A-B' (Side) Acer Predator 27" 2k 144hz TN 'Abmiprz'

Peripherals: Corsair K100 OPX | Logitech G502 Lightspeed | Corsair Virtuoso SE | Audioengine A2+

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

5 minutes ago, Daethz said:

My 5950x pbo-auto is topping out at 79c with my 5000D case decked out with A12x25 fans & a Noctua DH-15 air cooler

Im seeing 4800-5001mhz max on all cores with hwmonitor/142.11w usage max/1.525v

1.525V is way too high.

CPU: AMD Ryzen 9 5900X · Cooler: Artic Liquid Freezer II 280 · Motherboard: MSI MEG X570 Unify · RAM: G.skill Ripjaws V 2x16GB 3600MHz CL16 (2Rx8) · Graphics Card: ASUS GeForce RTX 3060 Ti TUF Gaming · Boot Drive: 500GB WD Black SN750 M.2 NVMe SSD · Game Drive: 2TB Crucial MX500 SATA SSD · PSU: Corsair White RM850x 850W 80+ Gold · Case: Corsair 4000D Airflow · Monitor: MSI Optix MAG342CQR 34” UWQHD 3440x1440 144Hz · Keyboard: Corsair K100 RGB Optical-Mechanical Gaming Keyboard (OPX Switch) · Mouse: Corsair Ironclaw RGB Wireless Gaming Mouse

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

2 minutes ago, Chris Pratt said:

1.525V is way too high.

Seems like it, but thats pbo auto doing that, I'm literally using stock mobo settings for the cpu

System Specs: AMD 5950x PBO-AutoNoctua DH-15 Black | Gigabyte x570 MasterEVGA 3080FTW3 Ultra | (2x16gb) G.Skill Royal 3600mhz CL18 | Corsair 5000D Airflow (Black) Samsung 980 Pro 2TB & Firecuda 520 1TB & Crucial MX500 2tb850W Corsair RMX | 2 Noctua A14 CPU, 6 Noctua A12x25 Intake, 3x Noctua F12 Top Exhaust, 1x Noctua A12x25 Back Exhaust

Monitors: (Main) LG Ultragear 34" 2k Ultrawide 144hz IPS '34GP83A-B' (Side) Acer Predator 27" 2k 144hz TN 'Abmiprz'

Peripherals: Corsair K100 OPX | Logitech G502 Lightspeed | Corsair Virtuoso SE | Audioengine A2+

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

Just now, Daethz said:

Seems like it, but thats pbo auto doing that, I'm literally using stock mobo settings for the cpu

Something is not right. What's your PPT, TDC and EDC limits? There's no way it should be able to hit anywhere near 1.525V with stock values for those.

CPU: AMD Ryzen 9 5900X · Cooler: Artic Liquid Freezer II 280 · Motherboard: MSI MEG X570 Unify · RAM: G.skill Ripjaws V 2x16GB 3600MHz CL16 (2Rx8) · Graphics Card: ASUS GeForce RTX 3060 Ti TUF Gaming · Boot Drive: 500GB WD Black SN750 M.2 NVMe SSD · Game Drive: 2TB Crucial MX500 SATA SSD · PSU: Corsair White RM850x 850W 80+ Gold · Case: Corsair 4000D Airflow · Monitor: MSI Optix MAG342CQR 34” UWQHD 3440x1440 144Hz · Keyboard: Corsair K100 RGB Optical-Mechanical Gaming Keyboard (OPX Switch) · Mouse: Corsair Ironclaw RGB Wireless Gaming Mouse

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

21 minutes ago, Chris Pratt said:

Something is not right. What's your PPT, TDC and EDC limits? There's no way it should be able to hit anywhere near 1.525V with stock values for those.

according to ryzen master ppt hangs out around 85% "of 142w" tdc 60% edc ~45%

cpu hangs out around 1.42v during a entire cod tdm

re-Edit: says PPT 142w / TDC 95A / EDC 140 A maximums in ryzen master

I wonder if Hwmonitor is off on voltages, ryzen master shows different numbers always

Edited by Daethz

System Specs: AMD 5950x PBO-AutoNoctua DH-15 Black | Gigabyte x570 MasterEVGA 3080FTW3 Ultra | (2x16gb) G.Skill Royal 3600mhz CL18 | Corsair 5000D Airflow (Black) Samsung 980 Pro 2TB & Firecuda 520 1TB & Crucial MX500 2tb850W Corsair RMX | 2 Noctua A14 CPU, 6 Noctua A12x25 Intake, 3x Noctua F12 Top Exhaust, 1x Noctua A12x25 Back Exhaust

Monitors: (Main) LG Ultragear 34" 2k Ultrawide 144hz IPS '34GP83A-B' (Side) Acer Predator 27" 2k 144hz TN 'Abmiprz'

Peripherals: Corsair K100 OPX | Logitech G502 Lightspeed | Corsair Virtuoso SE | Audioengine A2+

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

35 minutes ago, Chris Pratt said:

Something is not right. What's your PPT, TDC and EDC limits? There's no way it should be able to hit anywhere near 1.525V with stock values for those.

I posted my own thread here 

cuz im concerned now lol

System Specs: AMD 5950x PBO-AutoNoctua DH-15 Black | Gigabyte x570 MasterEVGA 3080FTW3 Ultra | (2x16gb) G.Skill Royal 3600mhz CL18 | Corsair 5000D Airflow (Black) Samsung 980 Pro 2TB & Firecuda 520 1TB & Crucial MX500 2tb850W Corsair RMX | 2 Noctua A14 CPU, 6 Noctua A12x25 Intake, 3x Noctua F12 Top Exhaust, 1x Noctua A12x25 Back Exhaust

Monitors: (Main) LG Ultragear 34" 2k Ultrawide 144hz IPS '34GP83A-B' (Side) Acer Predator 27" 2k 144hz TN 'Abmiprz'

Peripherals: Corsair K100 OPX | Logitech G502 Lightspeed | Corsair Virtuoso SE | Audioengine A2+

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

14 hours ago, Laeven said:

I'm wondering if I should go for something like the Corsair 5000D which allows for a triple radiator in the top and at the side, except the top has fans in a push and pull configuration. 

image.thumb.png.2681cddb874072c2a84ca6527008285a.png

It's a decent option. The only issue is spending more money, and essentially rebuilding your entire PC (which is why it's best to consider all options other than ordering a new case first; saves time and money)

 

Not everyone (including myself) minds rebuilding entore PC's in new cases, but it's my general rule of thumb. 

"Put as much effort into your question as you'd expect someone to give in an answer"- @Princess Luna

Make sure to Quote posts or tag the person with @[username] so they know you responded to them!

 RGB Build Post 2019 --- Rainbow 🦆 2020 --- Velka 5 V2.0 Build 2021

Purple Build Post ---  Blue Build Post --- Blue Build Post 2018 --- Project ITNOS

CPU i7-4790k    Motherboard Gigabyte Z97N-WIFI    RAM G.Skill Sniper DDR3 1866mhz    GPU EVGA GTX1080Ti FTW3    Case Corsair 380T   

Storage Samsung EVO 250GB, Samsung EVO 1TB, WD Black 3TB, WD Black 5TB    PSU Corsair CX750M    Cooling Cryorig H7 with NF-A12x25

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

46 minutes ago, TVwazhere said:

It's a decent option. The only issue is spending more money, and essentially rebuilding your entire PC (which is why it's best to consider all options other than ordering a new case first; saves time and money)

 

Not everyone (including myself) minds rebuilding entore PC's in new cases, but it's my general rule of thumb. 

I was actually thinking of just moving everything over from my current case into the 5000D. I would salvage the motherboard and everything on it, along with the case fans (if they're deemed good for airflow) and putting them in the new case along with a new Arctic Freezer II 360mm radiator in a push-pull config.

 

I also don't mind spending a bit of money if it really helps thermals. Given that my tempered glass side panel can get hot enough to burn you when you touch it during 90-100% gpu utilisation for long periods. In my opinion, I don't think the 1 rear 120mm QL fan is good enough to remove all the hot hair, although I may be wrong. Feel free to correct me. If the inside of the computer is getting hot enough to burn me, I'd say the air is not getting moved out of the case quick enough.

28-06-21-856.thumb.png.7b3544b6ba9bf00ebb44ae2f016c9ba9.png

This is my current configuration, I've drawn arrows as to how its configured.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

4 minutes ago, Laeven said:

If the inside of the computer is getting hot enough to burn me, I'd say the air is not getting moved out of the case quick enough.

Ehm that's not always the case. Keep in mind many oof these components are routinely over 40ºC which is enough to start burning most soft tissue. 

 

Do keep in mind your rear QL fan is not the only exhaust, as your CPU cooler acts as exhaust fans as well given how they're arranged. They technically are slightly less effective since they're "fighting" a radiator but not by much. 

"Put as much effort into your question as you'd expect someone to give in an answer"- @Princess Luna

Make sure to Quote posts or tag the person with @[username] so they know you responded to them!

 RGB Build Post 2019 --- Rainbow 🦆 2020 --- Velka 5 V2.0 Build 2021

Purple Build Post ---  Blue Build Post --- Blue Build Post 2018 --- Project ITNOS

CPU i7-4790k    Motherboard Gigabyte Z97N-WIFI    RAM G.Skill Sniper DDR3 1866mhz    GPU EVGA GTX1080Ti FTW3    Case Corsair 380T   

Storage Samsung EVO 250GB, Samsung EVO 1TB, WD Black 3TB, WD Black 5TB    PSU Corsair CX750M    Cooling Cryorig H7 with NF-A12x25

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

4 minutes ago, TVwazhere said:

Do keep in mind your rear QL fan is not the only exhaust, as your CPU cooler acts as exhaust fans as well given how they're arranged. They technically are slightly less effective since they're "fighting" a radiator but not by much. 

Yeah. My concern is that the AIO is being overwhelmed by the fact that it's a 16 core cpu and the heat spat out by my 3090 is making its way to the radiator, making cpu cooling less effective. So I thought a bigger rad with more static pressure could mitigate this. In an ideal world I'd want the gpu to have its own compartment or have some way to funnel its own heat out of the system aside from exiting through the radiator.

 

Would I just mount the rad vertically in the 5000D on the side like it shows in the promotional material?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

14 minutes ago, Laeven said:

Yeah. My concern is that the AIO is being overwhelmed by the fact that it's a 16 core cpu and the heat spat out by my 3090 is making its way to the radiator, making cpu cooling less effective. So I thought a bigger rad with more static pressure could mitigate this. In an ideal world I'd want the gpu to have its own compartment or have some way to funnel its own heat out of the system aside from exiting through the radiator.

 

Would I just mount the rad vertically in the 5000D on the side like it shows in the promotional material?

Side mounting the RAD as exhaust will simply cut into the front intake's sir, meaning the air comes into the front and most of it is ejected out the side before it even reaches the GPU. A Side intake would supplement air coming in from the front, but that doesn't make too much sense since the reason you probably don't want to Front-mount the RAD is because you'd partially warm some of the intake air. 

 

3090's dump heat out like a steel mill, so there's not much that can be done. Out of curiosity, what are your current temps under load that you're trying to reduce?

"Put as much effort into your question as you'd expect someone to give in an answer"- @Princess Luna

Make sure to Quote posts or tag the person with @[username] so they know you responded to them!

 RGB Build Post 2019 --- Rainbow 🦆 2020 --- Velka 5 V2.0 Build 2021

Purple Build Post ---  Blue Build Post --- Blue Build Post 2018 --- Project ITNOS

CPU i7-4790k    Motherboard Gigabyte Z97N-WIFI    RAM G.Skill Sniper DDR3 1866mhz    GPU EVGA GTX1080Ti FTW3    Case Corsair 380T   

Storage Samsung EVO 250GB, Samsung EVO 1TB, WD Black 3TB, WD Black 5TB    PSU Corsair CX750M    Cooling Cryorig H7 with NF-A12x25

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

If it helps, my 5900 can be at full load for days running F@H along with my GPU and my side panel never gets warm. Just using a heatsink and good fans. No need for an AIO unless you are after a certain look.

AMD R7 5800X3D | Thermalright Phantom Spirit 120 EVO, 1x T30

Asus Crosshair VIII Dark Hero | 32GB G.Skill Trident Z @ 3733C14

Zotac 4070 Ti Trinity OC @ 3060/1495 | WD SN850, SN850X, SN770

Seasonic Vertex GX-1000 | Fractal Torrent Compact RGB, Many CFM's

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

16 minutes ago, TVwazhere said:

Side mounting the RAD as exhaust will simply cut into the front intake's sir, meaning the air comes into the front and most of it is ejected out the side before it even reaches the GPU. A Side intake would supplement air coming in from the front, but that doesn't make too much sense since the reason you probably don't want to Front-mount the RAD is because you'd partially warm some of the intake air. 

 

3090's dump heat out like a steel mill, so there's not much that can be done. Out of curiosity, what are your current temps under load that you're trying to reduce?

My bad, I should of explained it better, I meant having an intake radiator mounted on the side. Sure it will heat the air up a tad bit but I also have the additional 3 120mm fans in the front that blow in ambient air. So I'd imagine I get warmish air. The GPU is a ROG Strix RTX3090 OC Edition. while it does as you say dump heat out like steel mill, stress testing it with furmark doesn't cause it to go above 75 degrees under a sustained load. I'd say that's pretty good. Unfortunately this increases my cpu temperature by a good 10 degrees at idle. So the cpu is now sitting at 73 at idle if the GPU is being used at full throttle. If I try to stress my CPU it climbs to 100+ degrees and crashes. It will even do this without the GPU running at full throttle.

 

TLDR: Current temps I want to reduce is CPU as it goes beyond 100 if I stress test it or open a demanding game/application. GPU is fine sitting at 75 degrees under sustained load.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

4 minutes ago, Laeven said:

If I try to stress my CPU it climbs to 100+ degrees and crashes. It will even do this without the GPU running at full throttle.

This is more likely due to the weak cooling in comparison to trying to cool 16 cores. a 240mm Radiator just doesn't have the dissipation capacity for all of that heat. A 360 should at least prevent it from pushing past 100C, but it will likely still hit above 90 depending on your settings.

 

75ºC for the GPU is solid. Adding warmish front radiator air shouldn't heat it up too much more than a few degrees, but with a bigger AIO and a larger case, this would give you options to figure out which configuration is truly best. 

"Put as much effort into your question as you'd expect someone to give in an answer"- @Princess Luna

Make sure to Quote posts or tag the person with @[username] so they know you responded to them!

 RGB Build Post 2019 --- Rainbow 🦆 2020 --- Velka 5 V2.0 Build 2021

Purple Build Post ---  Blue Build Post --- Blue Build Post 2018 --- Project ITNOS

CPU i7-4790k    Motherboard Gigabyte Z97N-WIFI    RAM G.Skill Sniper DDR3 1866mhz    GPU EVGA GTX1080Ti FTW3    Case Corsair 380T   

Storage Samsung EVO 250GB, Samsung EVO 1TB, WD Black 3TB, WD Black 5TB    PSU Corsair CX750M    Cooling Cryorig H7 with NF-A12x25

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

15 minutes ago, freeagent said:

If it helps, my 5900 can be at full load for days running F@H along with my GPU and my side panel never gets warm. Just using a heatsink and good fans. No need for an AIO unless you are after a certain look.

The reason I prefer an AIO, is the last time I used an air cooler it caused my motherboard to bend and warp. I'm not too fond of a massive hunk of metal handing off the motherboard and cpu socket for fear this will happen again.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

Just now, Laeven said:

The reason I prefer an AIO, is the last time I used an air cooler it caused my motherboard to bend and warp.

Understandable. What board were you using?

 

I only use big heatsinks and have not had that problem. My current one is 1000g with no fans.

AMD R7 5800X3D | Thermalright Phantom Spirit 120 EVO, 1x T30

Asus Crosshair VIII Dark Hero | 32GB G.Skill Trident Z @ 3733C14

Zotac 4070 Ti Trinity OC @ 3060/1495 | WD SN850, SN850X, SN770

Seasonic Vertex GX-1000 | Fractal Torrent Compact RGB, Many CFM's

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

10 minutes ago, freeagent said:

Understandable. What board were you using?

 

I only use big heatsinks and have not had that problem. My current one is 1000g with no fans.

Back then it was a Asus Strix Z270-E Mobo with a Be Quiet BK018 Dark Rock 3

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×