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Other than power effeciancy, what else is there?

cr8tor

Im looking to upgrade my system soon and will be replacing my 7 year old PSU.

Other than efficiency, what else is there for features to watch for?

Im familiar with the tier list, and am looking at the top of the list.

But i dont see much to differentiate them.

 

Is it mostly a matter of efficiency and then you can find in stock and thats it or do any of them have some nifty features not found everywhere?

RGB is not what im talking about either. 🙂

Daily driver (looking to upgrade mobo and cpu spring of 2021)   --- The only time I sort by price from high to low is when I am shopping for CPU's and GPU's (looking for a cheap i7-7700k though)
Mobo: ASRock Z170 Extreme7+  CPU: i7-6700K @ 4.6MHz OC  Cooling: Corsair H115i Hydro  Memory: TridentZ 32GB @ 3600MHz  GPU: EVGA 2070 FTW3 ULTRA+ (OC'd 50/300)  
PSU: Corsair HX850i   Storage: 980 Pro 1TB, 950 PRO 512Mb, (2)ADATA SU800 1TB  Keyboard: Logitech G910  Mouse: Logitech G502   Headset: Logitech G930 UPS: APC Pro 1500 S

Unraid box providing network routing, home automation services, and media services ( I love unraid!)

USB Key: SanDisk 16GB Ultra Fit  Mobo: Intel DX79SR Extreme+  CPU: i7-3820  Memory: 16Gb Kingston HyperX Predator  Storage: (cache)480gb Micron SSD (1)8TB HDD (1) 4TB HDD  
GPU: MSI GTX 1650 4GT LP OC (passed through to Emby)  NIC: Intel I350-T4 4-port Gb (passed through to PFSense)  UPS: APC PRO 1000
Docker Containers: Emby and Home-Assistant-Core  Virtual machines: PFsense ( I love PFSense!)

Family machines
Mobo: Asus Prime H310M-E  CPU: Intel Core i3-9100F  Cooling: Deepcool Gammaxx 400  Memory: Teamgroup Elite Plus DDR4 16GB  Storage: Silicon Power 1TB NVMe M.2  
GPU: Asus GTX 1660 Super 6GB or EVGA 1070 FTW 8GB  PSU: Thermaltake Smart 500W 80+  UPS: APC XS 1300


As well as a number of other machines, a ton of parts, miles of cables, and who knows what else!
Private message me for quicker assistance. I also build and ship custom machines at a really fair price.

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the feature most people look for in psu's is whether or not they are modular

 

then there are some psu's that have a fanless like feature thats very similar to the 0db feature on most modern gpu's.
and then there are psu's that are straight up fan less (for example, the Prime Titanium Fanless)
 

psu's can either be single rail or multi rail, biggest difference between the two is that your less likely to fry your pc with a multi rail one (especially at higher wattages)

 

 

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Well there is silent operation, quality of capacitors and modular is nice so you don't have all the cables you don't need inside the case. Even semi-modular is just as fine since you must have 24-pin and EPS connector anyway.

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DC-DC, more protection, less chance to fry your PC, better capacitors, more reliable, longer warranty, better customer support and much more.

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1 minute ago, Rooked said:

better capacitors

8 minutes ago, aDoomGuy said:

quality of capacitors

The "quality" of the capacitors really isn't an problem that you should be concerned with, nor are there many cases that a consumer can actually differentiate between "quality and non-quality" caps accurately and precisely.I guess sure, you can claim muh Japcaps, if you want to be disingenuous.

 

 

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1 minute ago, Elisis said:

The "quality" of the capacitors really isn't an problem that you should be concerned with, nor are there many cases that a consumer can actually differentiate between "quality and non-quality" caps accurately and precisely.I guess sure, you can claim muh Japcaps, if you want to be disingenuous.

 

 

Quality capacitors does make it more reliable somewhat, also does guarantee that the PSU can work on higher temps.

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2 minutes ago, Rooked said:

also does guarantee that the PSU can work on higher temps.

Not really...? That's more down to how the platform is designed, what kind of fan is used, and a few other things than really much else. You're not going to be running ambient temps near the temp rating of the caps...

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^-^

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Just now, Elisis said:

Not really...? That's more down to how the platform is designed, which fan, and a few other things than really much else. You're not going to be running ambient temps near the temp rating of the caps...

Yes, but most PSU's with the access to better capacitors generally make better design anyway, it is a gimmick but does tend to work as a filter.

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2 minutes ago, Elisis said:

The "quality" of the capacitors really isn't an problem that you should be concerned with, nor are there many cases that a consumer can actually differentiate between "quality and non-quality" caps accurately and precisely.I guess sure, you can claim muh Japcaps, if you want to be disingenuous.

 

 

Well I trust "japcaps" to last longer than "chincaps...?"

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2 minutes ago, Rooked said:

Yes, but most PSU's with the access to better capacitors generally make better design anyway, it is a gimmick but does tend to work as a filter.

Not when an OEM / rebrander uses better caps as branding to try to seem to make up for a horrid design...

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^-^

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Just now, Elisis said:

Not when an OEM / rebrander uses better caps as branding to seem to make up for a horrid design...

Such as who?

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1 minute ago, aDoomGuy said:

Such as who?

Here's one example. Gigabyte P-GM

p-gm bullshit.PNG

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^-^

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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6 minutes ago, Elisis said:

Here's one example. Gigabyte P-GM

p-gm bullshit.PNG

I did say it was a gimmick, and MOST of them do have better design than others.

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3 minutes ago, Elisis said:

Here's one example. Gigabyte P-GM

 

Ah but it's only a Gigabyte. I didn't even know they "make" power supplies.. Anyway what do they mean "main caps"? Corsair claims 100% caps on the RMx. Also have a longer warranty 

 

Well China has indeed come a long way in recent years but I still don't think cheap chinese equals expensive stuff from elsewhere. Maybe it makes no difference.. maybe Japan doesn't even make capacitors. My "cheaptek" (Chieftek) PSU worked for years flawlessly and my Cooler Master did too (and still do in another PC) but it had coil whine and when I put it in this PC it sounded like it was dying when I launched a game. Same wattage as this RMx...

 

Any true quality PSU out there without Japanese made capacitors then?

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9 minutes ago, aDoomGuy said:

Ah but it's only a Gigabyte. I didn't even know they "make" power supplies.. Anyway what do they mean "main caps"? Corsair claims 100% caps on the RMx. Also have a longer warranty 

 

Well China has indeed come a long way in recent years but I still don't think cheap chinese equals expensive stuff from elsewhere. Maybe it makes no difference.. maybe Japan doesn't even make capacitors. My "cheaptek" (Chieftek) PSU worked for years flawlessly and my Cooler Master did too (and still do in another PC) but it had coil whine and when I put it in this PC it sounded like it was dying when I launched a game. Same wattage as this RMx...

 

Any true quality PSU out there without Japanese made capacitors then?

 

 

What if I told you that all caps are made in China? ;)

 

 

i9 9900K @ 5.0 GHz, NH D15, 32 GB DDR4 3200 GSKILL Trident Z RGB, AORUS Z390 MASTER, EVGA RTX 3080 FTW3 Ultra, Samsung 970 EVO Plus 500GB, Samsung 860 EVO 1TB, Samsung 860 EVO 500GB, ASUS ROG Swift PG279Q 27", Steel Series APEX PRO, Logitech Gaming Pro Mouse, CM Master Case 5, Corsair AXI 1600W Titanium. 

 

i7 8086K, AORUS Z370 Gaming 5, 16GB GSKILL RJV DDR4 3200, EVGA 2080TI FTW3 Ultra, Samsung 970 EVO 250GB, (2)SAMSUNG 860 EVO 500 GB, Acer Predator XB1 XB271HU, Corsair HXI 850W.

 

i7 8700K, AORUS Z370 Ultra Gaming, 16GB DDR4 3000, EVGA 1080Ti FTW3 Ultra, Samsung 960 EVO 250GB, Corsair HX 850W.

 

 

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1 minute ago, Ankerson said:

 

 

What if I told you that all caps are made in China? ;)

 

 

Then I would be less surprised than amused. :D 

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4 hours ago, aDoomGuy said:

Then I would be less surprised than amused. :D 

Yep, the capacitors are most likely engineered in Japan and manufactured in China. They always do this stuff, annoys me when they say they designed it in *put country here* but it is manufactured in China.

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10 hours ago, cr8tor said:

Im looking to upgrade my system soon and will be replacing my 7 year old PSU.

Other than efficiency, what else is there for features to watch for?

Im familiar with the tier list, and am looking at the top of the list.

But i dont see much to differentiate them.

 

Is it mostly a matter of efficiency and then you can find in stock and thats it or do any of them have some nifty features not found everywhere?

RGB is not what im talking about either. 🙂

When upgrading e.g. your GPU, you would look at the performance, noise, various features, components used, pricing, and maybe things like the size. Why would it be any different for a PSU?

Look at a proper review, and you'll find how the PSU performs (e.g. regulation, ripple, transient response, hold up time), how loud it is at various loads, features (modularity, software monitoring, toggling multi/single rail OCP etc), protections, what components are used, pricing compared to other PSUs, and the physical dimensions. And whatever else matters for your specific build.

9 hours ago, aDoomGuy said:

Ah but it's only a Gigabyte.

 

9 hours ago, aDoomGuy said:

Such as who?

You asked for an example, and then you reply with that when you are presented with one

rooBlank - AdmiralBahroo Subscriber Emote

9 hours ago, aDoomGuy said:

Anyway what do they mean "main caps"?

Afaik, this would be the primary hold up cap(s), i.e. among the least important caps on the PSU.

 

10 hours ago, Rooked said:

Quality capacitors does make it more reliable somewhat, also does guarantee that the PSU can work on higher temps.

That depends on how the PSU is designed, not on what brand has their name on the caps. The standard rated full load temperature for normal PSUs that are not absolute garbage or very high end is 40C, which is indicated.

Edited by seon123
Mipsellings

:)

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3 minutes ago, seon123 said:

That depends on how the PSU is designed, not on what brand has their name on the caps. The standard rated full load temperature for normal PSUs that are not absolute garbage or very high end is 40C, which is indicated.

I do know the design is important. The only thing worth mentioning is the reliability of the capacitors, and as I said right below my comment, most PSU's that come with quality capacitors have decent design with it. Note how I said most, not all of them.

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2 minutes ago, Rooked said:

Note how I said most, not all of them.

Just like "most" 80+ Gold rated PSUs are decent... While it can be kind of true, it is also completely meaningless, and not even worth mentioning.

:)

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10 minutes ago, seon123 said:

it is also completely meaningless, and not even worth mentioning.

This, and

22 minutes ago, seon123 said:

That depends on how the PSU is designed

does not seem right to me.

It is not completely meaningless in my opinion, due to the same points you said about design making less fan sound, improved reliability and much more.

80+ Gold is for efficiency and less heat. Quality of capacitors is for reliability (ripple). Have you seen a good PSU that doesn't have quality capacitors? To be completely honest, you can literally use a high-end PC with a 80+ white 650W PSU. Just that it might need a higher wattage and might break in 5 seconds (overexaggeration) if the design is bad (which almost all cheap 80+ white have) and has worse working temperatures. 

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27 minutes ago, seon123 said:

You asked for an example, and then you reply with that  when you are presented with one

Please take no offence, I make a not funny joke alright.

 

26 minutes ago, seon123 said:

Afaik, this would be the primary hold up cap(s), i.e. among the last important caps on the PSU.

 

That depends on how the PSU is designed, not on what brand has their name on the caps. The standard rated full load temperature for normal PSUs that are not absolute garbage or very high end is 40C, which is indicated.

Thanks for that, informative.

 

 

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Wow, i didnt expect quite so much of a response.

Many thanks to all who commented back and forth.

The debating viewpoints its most useful to me.

 

On the plus side, i dont think anyone added anything i wasnt already aware of.

This is a good thing as it reinforced my thoughts on power supplies.

Mostly, look for good components from a trusted manufacturer that backs up their hardware with a good warranty.

Ive been looking at a corsair RM850i and will probably stick with that unless i find a great deal on something equivalent. 

 

I was feeling like i might be missing something  as i havent done a ton of research into power supplies lately.

You guys confirmed for me there are not really any new features out there, which i didnt expect there to be.

 

Thanks to everyone for sharing.

 

Daily driver (looking to upgrade mobo and cpu spring of 2021)   --- The only time I sort by price from high to low is when I am shopping for CPU's and GPU's (looking for a cheap i7-7700k though)
Mobo: ASRock Z170 Extreme7+  CPU: i7-6700K @ 4.6MHz OC  Cooling: Corsair H115i Hydro  Memory: TridentZ 32GB @ 3600MHz  GPU: EVGA 2070 FTW3 ULTRA+ (OC'd 50/300)  
PSU: Corsair HX850i   Storage: 980 Pro 1TB, 950 PRO 512Mb, (2)ADATA SU800 1TB  Keyboard: Logitech G910  Mouse: Logitech G502   Headset: Logitech G930 UPS: APC Pro 1500 S

Unraid box providing network routing, home automation services, and media services ( I love unraid!)

USB Key: SanDisk 16GB Ultra Fit  Mobo: Intel DX79SR Extreme+  CPU: i7-3820  Memory: 16Gb Kingston HyperX Predator  Storage: (cache)480gb Micron SSD (1)8TB HDD (1) 4TB HDD  
GPU: MSI GTX 1650 4GT LP OC (passed through to Emby)  NIC: Intel I350-T4 4-port Gb (passed through to PFSense)  UPS: APC PRO 1000
Docker Containers: Emby and Home-Assistant-Core  Virtual machines: PFsense ( I love PFSense!)

Family machines
Mobo: Asus Prime H310M-E  CPU: Intel Core i3-9100F  Cooling: Deepcool Gammaxx 400  Memory: Teamgroup Elite Plus DDR4 16GB  Storage: Silicon Power 1TB NVMe M.2  
GPU: Asus GTX 1660 Super 6GB or EVGA 1070 FTW 8GB  PSU: Thermaltake Smart 500W 80+  UPS: APC XS 1300


As well as a number of other machines, a ton of parts, miles of cables, and who knows what else!
Private message me for quicker assistance. I also build and ship custom machines at a really fair price.

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LLC and DC-DC with good voltage regulations and good enough ripple.

Effiency and brand doesn ot mean anything. 

 

So are you looking at 750-850w psus?

 

Straight power 11

RMX

TXM

RM

Revolution DF'

Phanteks AMP, just to name some good psus.

QUOTE ME  FOR ANSWER.

 

Main PC:

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|Ryzen 7 3700x, OC to 4.2ghz @1.3V, 67C, or 4.4ghz @1.456V, 87C || Asus strix 5700 XT, +50 core, +50 memory, +50 power (not a great overclocker) || Asus Strix b550-A || G.skill trident Z Neo rgb 32gb 3600mhz cl16-19-19-19-39, oc to 3733mhz with the same timings || Cooler Master ml360 RGB AIO || Phanteks P500A Digital || Thermaltake ToughPower grand RGB750w 80+gold || Samsung 850 250gb and Adata SX 6000 Lite 500gb || Toshiba 5400rpm 1tb || Asus Rog Theta 7.1 || Asus Rog claymore || Asus Gladius 2 origin gaming mouse || Monitor 1 Asus 1080p 144hz || Monitor 2 AOC 1080p 75hz || 

Test Rig.

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Ryzen 5 3400G || Gigabyte b450 S2H || Hyper X fury 2x4gb 2666mhz cl 16 ||Stock cooler || Antec NX100 || Silverstone essential 400w || Transgend SSD 220s 480gb ||

Just Sold

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| i3 9100F || Msi Gaming X gtx 1050 TI || MSI Z390 A-Pro || Kingston 1x16gb 2400mhz cl17 || Stock cooler || Kolink Horizon RGB || Corsair CV 550w || Pny CS900 120gb ||

 

Tier lists for building a PC.

 

Motherboard tier list. Tier A for overclocking 5950x. Tier B for overclocking 5900x, Tier C for overclocking 5800X. Tier D for overclocking 5600X. Tier F for 4/6 core Cpus at stock. Tier E avoid.

(Also case airflow matter or if you are using Downcraft air cooler)

Spoiler

 

Gpu tier list. Rtx 3000 and RX 6000 not included since not so many reviews. Tier S for Water cooling. Tier A and B for overcloking. Tier C stock and Tier D avoid.

( You can overclock Tier C just fine, but it can get very loud, that is why it is not recommended for overclocking, same with tier D)

Spoiler

 

Psu tier List. Tier A for Rtx 3000, Vega and RX 6000. Tier B For anything else. Tier C cheap/IGPU. Tier D and E avoid.

(RTX 3000/ RX 6000 Might run just fine with higher wattage tier B unit, Rtx 3070 runs fine with tier B units)

Spoiler

 

Cpu cooler tier list. Tier 1&2 for power hungry Cpus with Overclock. Tier 3&4 for overclocking Ryzen 3,5,7 or lower power Intel Cpus. Tier 5 for overclocking low end Cpus or 4/6 core Ryzen. Tier 6&7 for stock. Tier 8&9 Ryzen stock cooler performance. Do not waste your money!

Spoiler

 

Storage tier List. Tier A for Moving files/  OS. Tier B for OS/Games. Tier C for games. Tier D budget Pcs. Tier E if on sale not the worst but not good.

(With a grain of salt, I use tier C for OS myself)

Spoiler

 

Case Tier List. Work In Progress. Most Phanteks airflow series cases already done!

Ask me anything :)

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12 minutes ago, cr8tor said:

On the plus side, i dont think anyone added anything i wasnt already aware of.

Are you sure you were aware of the most important PSU characteristics, that @seon123 enumerated?

Quote

how the PSU performs (e.g. regulation, ripple, transient response, hold up time), how loud it is at various loads, features (modularity, software monitoring, toggling multi/single rail OCP etc), protections, what components are used, pricing compared to other PSUs, and the physical dimensions.

I'm asking because to me, you were making an impression that you weren't aware of such details.

 

14 minutes ago, cr8tor said:

it reinforced my thoughts on power supplies.

Mostly, look for good components from a trusted manufacturer that backs up their hardware with a good warranty.

But... that's is not what everyone's been telling you here. That line of advice is as general as it gets, and wouldn't help somebody who looks for a PSU in narrowing their choices at all. Good components are important, but it's only one tiny part of what's important in power supplies, like the things seon listed. Trusting a manufacturer is not a smart consumer behaviour either (you're buying a product, not a brand - so look at the product, not how "trusted" the brand is), and warranty length is a decision of the marketing department, not an indication of quality.

 

Imagine a car specialist explains to somebody all the numerous details that make a good car - displacement, transmission, power, torque, drivetrain, suspension, capacity, weight, safety systems, comfort features, and hundreds more... And that somebody summarizes that lecture with a "...So, mostly look for a car with good parts from a trusted manufacturer with good warranty. Got it, nothing I wasn't already aware of!"

 

If you want to make sure that you really grasp every factor that goes into evaluating whether a PSU is good or bad, read one of the detailed reviews on TechPowerUP or Tom's Hardware: https://www.techpowerup.com/review/super-flower-leadex-iii-argb-gold-650-w/

You can also read this detailed article: https://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/power-supplies-101,4193.html

If it turns out that there are some details there that you weren't aware of after all, then it's all the better!

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