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First PC build: burned +$2k for nothing

wasteofmoney

Specs:

  • Intel Core i5 (9th Gen) (3.7 GHz, 6-core)
  • ASUS ROG STRIX Maximum Hero XI (Wi-fi) (z390)
  • ASUS ROG STRIX AMD Radeon 560 RX (4 GB RAM)
  • Corsair Vengeance LPX (16GB (2*8) RAM, DDR4, 2666Mhz)
  • Samsung 970 EVO M.2 (500GB, NVMe)
  • Barracuda SATA HDD (1 TB, 64MB  Cache 7200rpm)
  • Pioneer optical drive (Ultra HD Bluray)
  • Seasonic Prime PSU (80+ Titanium, 750 W)
  • Noctua NH-U9S cooler
  • Corsair Carbide 200r Compact chassis

I never touched any component without the electrostatic wrist band on.

  1. At my first attempts to turn it on the computer beeped once without showing anything on my monitor and the fans would only spin for a half-second. I switched the `ledp+` / `ledp-` to match the label on the motherboard (they were previously connected wrong with`+` sign matching `-` sign and vice versa).
  2. After subsequent attempts to turn it on, it was no longer beeping, but the problem with the fans remained. I saw an instructional video were someone took out then re-attached a lithium battery (“CMOS battery”) from his motherboard to solve the problem with the fans. I did the same, and additionally connected an extra 4-pin PSU cable to power the CPU next to the 8-pin cable already in. The fans began to spin normally after that.
  3. Nonetheless, the remaining problems are still numerous:
  • front panel LEDs (`Power` and `Reset`) don’t even light up while computer is on,
  • GPU fans don’t spin,
  • PC monitor (4k) won’t show anything with the computer on (not through 4 different configurations, over HDMI or DP connected to GPU or motherboard back panel),
  • Q Code is `00` with no other colored LED troubleshoot indicator on the motherboard,
  • PSU bottom fan will only spin for a half second after pressing the `Hybrid Mode` button. [Correction: The PSU bottom fan was probably spinning, but this is only hearable immediately after pressing `Hybrid Mode`, from there on it spins too quietly to hear. Hence the impression of the fan going off.]

Everything else is up and moving (e.g. optical drive flashes and ejects, SATA HDD spins normally, connections are in place)...

 

Right now I feel like I wasted over 2 grand of electronics to end up with rubbish on top of my desktop towards Christmas. Who do I complain to now? Whose warranty should I claim when i have disparate manufacturers making up my build? Never building a PC again.

 

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make sure all the psu cables to the mother board have been pushed all the way in re check cpu for bent pins. trust me man just need to do some trouble shooting it will be well worth in the end

 

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Code 00 is usually, but not always, a bent pin in the CPU socket

"And I'll be damned if I let myself trip from a lesser man's ledge"

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Gee talk about a weirdly unbalanced awful price to performance build.

 

Should have looked for advises in here before purchasing parts.

Personal Desktop":

CPU: Intel Core i7 10700K @5ghz |~| Cooling: bq! Dark Rock Pro 4 |~| MOBO: Gigabyte Z490UD ATX|~| RAM: 16gb DDR4 3333mhzCL16 G.Skill Trident Z |~| GPU: RX 6900XT Sapphire Nitro+ |~| PSU: Corsair TX650M 80Plus Gold |~| Boot:  SSD WD Green M.2 2280 240GB |~| Storage: 1x3TB HDD 7200rpm Seagate Barracuda + SanDisk Ultra 3D 1TB |~| Case: Fractal Design Meshify C Mini |~| Display: Toshiba UL7A 4K/60hz |~| OS: Windows 10 Pro.

Luna, the temporary Desktop:

CPU: AMD R9 7950XT  |~| Cooling: bq! Dark Rock 4 Pro |~| MOBO: Gigabyte Aorus Master |~| RAM: 32G Kingston HyperX |~| GPU: AMD Radeon RX 7900XTX (Reference) |~| PSU: Corsair HX1000 80+ Platinum |~| Windows Boot Drive: 2x 512GB (1TB total) Plextor SATA SSD (RAID0 volume) |~| Linux Boot Drive: 500GB Kingston A2000 |~| Storage: 4TB WD Black HDD |~| Case: Cooler Master Silencio S600 |~| Display 1 (leftmost): Eizo (unknown model) 1920x1080 IPS @ 60Hz|~| Display 2 (center): BenQ ZOWIE XL2540 1920x1080 TN @ 240Hz |~| Display 3 (rightmost): Wacom Cintiq Pro 24 3840x2160 IPS @ 60Hz 10-bit |~| OS: Windows 10 Pro (games / art) + Linux (distro: NixOS; programming and daily driver)
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2 minutes ago, Velcade said:

Code 00 is usually, but not always, a bent pin in the CPU socket

Code 00 could also be a dead CPU.

 

The system is posting so it's not a dead board, but all the other symptoms are pointing towards a CPU problem.

Quote or tag me( @Crunchy Dragon) if you want me to see your reply

If a post solved your problem/answered your question, please consider marking it as "solved"

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7 minutes ago, wasteofmoney said:

GPU fans don’t spin,

This is normal. Asus calls it 0dB mode, which means the fans won't turn on until the GPU reaches a certain temperature.

Crystal: CPU: i7 7700K | Motherboard: Asus ROG Strix Z270F | RAM: GSkill 16 GB@3200MHz | GPU: Nvidia GTX 1080 Ti FE | Case: Corsair Crystal 570X (black) | PSU: EVGA Supernova G2 1000W | Monitor: Asus VG248QE 24"

Laptop: Dell XPS 13 9370 | CPU: i5 10510U | RAM: 16 GB

Server: CPU: i5 4690k | RAM: 16 GB | Case: Corsair Graphite 760T White | Storage: 19 TB

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The PSU and GPU fans not spinning is normal. They only spin up when they get to a certain temperature or load level.

Did you check/flip the LED front panel cables to make sure they are on right? The triangle on the plastic is negative iirc.

Current Network Layout:

Current Build Log/PC:

Prior Build Log/PC:

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1 minute ago, Princess Cadence said:

Gee talk about a weirdly unbalanced awful price to performance build.

 

Should have looked for advises in here before purchasing parts.

The monitor alone makes up over 500 dollars of the price.

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"Put as much effort into your question as you'd expect someone to give in an answer"- @Princess Luna

Make sure to Quote posts or tag the person with @[username] so they know you responded to them!

 RGB Build Post 2019 --- Rainbow 🦆 2020 --- Velka 5 V2.0 Build 2021

Purple Build Post ---  Blue Build Post --- Blue Build Post 2018 --- Project ITNOS

CPU i7-4790k    Motherboard Gigabyte Z97N-WIFI    RAM G.Skill Sniper DDR3 1866mhz    GPU EVGA GTX1080Ti FTW3    Case Corsair 380T   

Storage Samsung EVO 250GB, Samsung EVO 1TB, WD Black 3TB, WD Black 5TB    PSU Corsair CX750M    Cooling Cryorig H7 with NF-A12x25

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Is the 6-pin power plugged into the GPU?

If you pull the GPU out do you get display from the motherboard output?

Current Network Layout:

Current Build Log/PC:

Prior Build Log/PC:

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1 minute ago, Lurick said:

Is the 6-pin power plugged into the GPU?

If you pull the GPU out do you get display from the motherboard output?

Yes, the 6-pin cable is connected to the GPU. I already tried turning it on with the GPU uninstalled. Every problem remained just as described.

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Double-check the EPS 12V connector, again. Since it's a modular PSU, check it it secure on both sides (PSU connector and motherboard connector).  Leave hybrid mode off until you fix your issue.

"And I'll be damned if I let myself trip from a lesser man's ledge"

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code 00 is the sign of motherboard not initializing or error to from the cpu

okay dismantle everything, including the cpu.

examine the cpu slot, watch for misaligned pins.

if you are sure the the pins are well aligned, put only the CPU and 1 stick of memory only, don't forget to attach the speakers as you'll be listening to the beep codes.

ok now start the pc, listen to beep codes or Q code other than 00.

 

Ryzen 5700g @ 4.4ghz all cores | Asrock B550M Steel Legend | 3060 | 2x 16gb Micron E 2666 @ 4200mhz cl16 | 500gb WD SN750 | 12 TB HDD | Deepcool Gammax 400 w/ 2 delta 4000rpm push pull | Antec Neo Eco Zen 500w

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I dismantled the CPU then placed it back in. Did the same with the CPU power. Everything remains literally the same.

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I also noticed the Caps Lock and Num Lock indicators on my keyboard are not flashing neither.

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From ROG Site:

 

1. Intel ME locked up, which can be healed with the following process:
(i) Remove AC, and remove CMOS battery.
(ii) Hold the power button to drain all currents from the system, till all LEDs are off completely.
(iii) Hold the CLRTC (CMOS Clear) button for 10 seconds, then release.
(iv) Put the CMOS battery back and reconnect AC, then try to boot the system again.

2. The BIOS content or the BIOS chip is no longer functional. (Not likely to be the case, as you have tried updating it again with USB BIOS Flashback)

3. The CPU is mul-function.
 

With Great Power, Comes a Great Electricity Bill

 

 

Main

Setup: Intel core i5-8400 (OC'd), MSI Z-370-A Pro, Crucial Ballistix 8GB, Be Quiet! Pure Slim, Cooler Master Masterbox Lite 5 RGB, TP-Link Wifi Adapter, ASRock RX580, Artic Silver 3.5g Thermal Paste, Logitech G105, Logitech M310, Razer Sphex V2 (Mat), EVGA 500W 80+ Silver, 1TB WD Blue, 240gb Kingston Digital

 

 

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That sucks, but a RX 560??? I hope that's a placeholder because that is going to make your fps complete shit

Ryzen 7 3700X / 16GB RAM / Optane SSD / GTX 1650 / Solus Linux

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I followed @6thOntheLeft 1st outline, copy-pasted from the ROG site.  This is the second time I follow the set of instructions; only now I went the extra mile and disassembled my entire built to put it together once again. Everything is just as good as it was with more organized wiring.

 

Now the LED power button on my front panel finally lights on after pressing it and even the GPU fans are spinning smoothly... However, the computer shuts down immediately (as if it were fainting) for a split-second then turns itself on again and thereafter this is shown on the motherboard...

 

Q-Code:  FE

LED troubleshoot indicator: Yellow

 

As before, a blank screen after which the monitor goes into energy save mode. My keyboard Num Lock and Caps Lock wont light up as if it wasn’t connected.

 

 

 

 

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Hm.

With Great Power, Comes a Great Electricity Bill

 

 

Main

Setup: Intel core i5-8400 (OC'd), MSI Z-370-A Pro, Crucial Ballistix 8GB, Be Quiet! Pure Slim, Cooler Master Masterbox Lite 5 RGB, TP-Link Wifi Adapter, ASRock RX580, Artic Silver 3.5g Thermal Paste, Logitech G105, Logitech M310, Razer Sphex V2 (Mat), EVGA 500W 80+ Silver, 1TB WD Blue, 240gb Kingston Digital

 

 

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