Dw136

Get a proper mic. I can watch terrible shaky cam I can't stand hearing audio recorded on a potato. 

You mentioned a budget of 1k.
For that I would stick with the a6000 or even the a5000 since you are recording audio separately.
I would pick up some cheap Canon FD or Nikon AI/AI-S or even older m42 glass to pair with it. You probably want your standard 24, 35, 50, and 85 mm + a macro lens. But the 24 and 50 is a good start.
Lights would be your biggest priority at the moment.I'd recommend looking into Yongnuo LED lights. They're pretty good price/performance.
More importantly however it's just practice. When you first start, your videos won't look the way you want right out of the gate. You got to just continue and work at it, find tutorials online or pay a buddy who knows videography in free food and drinks to learn.

A lot of people think the "filmic" look is down to the camera and they're right in certain aspects but will often neglect to tell you what it truly takes to get that look. 
 
1. A larger sensor will give you shallower depth of field which some consider to be 'filmic'
2. Fast lenses again will give you shallower depth of field, but will also allow you to isolate your subjects or include the background depending on the focal length. 
3. LIGHTING!!! Hard lights, soft light, kickers and fills. Lighting is an art and key to the 'filmic' look. How do the shadows fall across your subject? Separation from the back ground uisng lights.
4. Camera movement. Static cameras work but movement is nice and add production value
5. Sound is another, you have to make sure your sound is perfectly synced and crystal clear. A lot of people don't realize how important sound is to the filmic look, your brain will use both audio and video signals to process the image.
6. Editing style, quick cuts vs slow transitions vs audio leads/falls it all adds up to your 'look', the scope you choose (16x9 vs 2.35:1), how you colour grade the footage, etc etc etc 
 
There are a million other tiny things which you need to do to achieve the look. People will spend years creating their 'look'. No camera will give you an amazing look right out of the camera. You have to work at it. 

If you have a little extra budget I would highly recommend the Sony RX10 ii. It'll do 4k video, and 1080p slow mo (120 continuous or 240 2 second burst). I don't know what nature shots you're doing but everything is better with slow-mo   just don't over use it. It's a fixed 24-200 2.8 equivalent lens.  Close focus at 200 is pretty good; might not be good enough for super macro work but you can add filters which will get you there. (Side note: I know it has a power zoom but I don't know if it'll be smooth enough for documentary style zoom pulls). It records XAVC-S and can be shot in SLog. (Note: Do not use SLog if you don't know what you're doing, the image will look disgusting. XAVC-S is a very efficient codec but with that efficiency comes a high overhead, it can be difficult to work due to high computational requirements).

If you don't have to buy lenses there are a few accessories that will really help. 
 
I highly recommend a good stereo mic as a next investment. Beautiful image has nothing on immersive sound, especially in nature documentary. If the person is watching your clip can clearly hear all the small sounds (like running water, bugs, birds, etc) it'll be better way better than amazing visuals. 
 
If you're doing larger nature shots (landscape/large scenes) a stabilizer would also be a cool addition. They're a bit expensive and some take time to set up correctly, but when you can make the camera "fly" through a beautiful landscape it's an amazing shot. Check out Devin Graham's Kualoa Adventure video on Youtube to see examples. Personally, I would buy a electronic 3-axis gimbal instead of learning the Glidecam. 
 
A good Circular Polarizing Filter can make landscapes way more dramatic and give you a little bit more room to get the sky properly exposed. 
 

My best suggestion is buying used if you don't mind. 
At that price point you have a lot of camera which are bought for vacations, people who think they'll like photography or people who really baby their gear. In most of these cases these camera are hardly used and have been either neglected, sitting inside a bag, or have been baby their entire lives. 

I'd look on local classifieds and see what's in your price range. Best way to tell if it's about going rate (so you don't get ripped off) is just to search ebay and find the average price. If it's a good price, look up the specs or just ask people here if it's a good camera/deal. In reality anything from Nikon, Canon, Sony is a pretty safe purchase. 

Just remember when you go to purchase it, make sure you get the box that it came in (because who steals the box?), make sure the camera fires and the lens rotates smoothly. Bribe your photog friend with coffee or beer and have them look it over. If there are a lot of scratch marks, if the lens doesn't rotate smoothly, or if there's something fishy about it, just walk away. 

I've been doing this for about a year now on a student's budget. Managed to build my kit for WAY less than retail.

Internet connections aren't really great here so I don't want to be up/downloading gigs of data at a time. I have exported Jpegs and final cut videos going to the cloud.

Thanks. I'll keep that in mind. 

Let us have our one moment where we don't get screwed for pricing.

Depends what you're using it for.
-If you still want DSLR quality then a Sony a6000 is a great choice.
-If you want something a little more stylish and compact but still has interchangeable lenses something like a Olympus M4/3 camera is cool.
-If you want a super compact pocket (jacket pocket or purse) camera something like a Sony RX100 Mk2/3 or a Panasonic LX100.
-If you want a great vacation camera I'd recommend getting a Sony RX10 or a Panasonic FZ1000 + a GoPro if you can fit it in budget. 
-If you want something idiot proof  and super portable a high end smartphones can actually take great photos. Combine with a lens kit and you can have tons of fun. 
-If you want to turn photography something more than a hobby I'd recommend going DSLR.  
 
Just remember "The best camera is the one you have on you." Find what you're willing to take and use it. At the end of the day, for people who shoot for fun/hobby it's the people in the picture, the atmosphere, and the memories that make the image.
 
From my experience I have Full Frame DSLR + 2.8 glass, but when I go out and shoot for myself or hang out with buddies I leave it all behind and pick up a small point and shoot. It's just easier to go out have fun and snap a few quick pictures. I try not to be be that dick who's carrying a full bag of lenses and always stopping the group to take a perfect photo. 

It depends on what you shoot. Do you want slow mo? High ISO capability? Rotating screen for weird angle shots? Shallow DoF? Lots of DoF? Are you grading the footage? Dose internal 4k resolution matter? Do you want to do stills with it? 
 
There is no "better camera" just cameras that are better suited for the job. 

My recommendation is buying used. A lot of the entry level cameras are hardly used, most either are shot one then forgotten about or babied their entire lives. My tip is to look in the local classifieds and see what comes up. For pricing try to find ebay listing for the same camera (Or used department of BandH or Adorama) and then offer 10-33% below internet price (Depending on how aggressive you want to be).
 
Another place is local community garage sales. Just be willing to walk away and always do your research. Pick it up, look at it, check it over, say you'll be back, google all the info/pricing, come back and haggle if you want it. Just be willing to walk away if the price is too high.  

Here's a free lesson: GLASS GLASS GLASS GLASS! It's all about the glass. Don't blow your entire budget on a body. Generally the rule is at least 50% of your budget should be in lenses. 
 
Here's what i'd do:
 
Learn what you can now. A lot of local library's have deals with online education websites like Lynda.com. If you have the time, renew that membership for a month or two and go study. Honestly the basics of photography is not that hard to learn especially from videos. + books!      If you want the free version if you get that 10day free trial that Linus has and put maybe 1-2 hours a day for those 10 days I bet you could learn not only the basics of photography but some cool tricks. + It'll make classes easier if you have a foundation and not starting from scratch. 
 
Have you considered buying used? The used camera market is great, especially for entry level DSLR's (Sub 1k gear) people tend to either A) Shoot it once then only bring it out on "special occasions" B ) baby it to the point where it's practically new C) Ditch photography after a few weeks because a smartphone is just easier. The internet is a great place, a good guideline is if you can find used gear locally, just look up on ebay or the used department at B and H and go from there. Generally if you're luck you have shave 10-30% off the internet asking price.  
 
Off Brands. There is no loyalty. Who care if all your gear is Nikon/Canon. They're great other camera manufactures that not a lot of people will talk about. They're usually great for the price because they're not as popular. Other off brands to look out for are Pentax, Tamron, Sigma, and Tokina. I've probably missed some but they're out there. 

If you want good video you need good audio. 
 
People don't give a dam if it's a beautifully shot perfectly crisp image if your audio is hissing and crackling. 
 
Don't blow all your budget on the camera and lens, for serious video you need a mic. A POWERED MIC to be precise. Don't go with something like the RODE Video-Mic Go because you're on board pre-amps on any consumer camera SUCKS. Invest in something like a RODE Video Mic Pro that can provide a clean signal to the camera. 
 
Oh and something like a RX10 or a Panasonix FZ1000 probably would be your best bet. They're really simplistic to use, have a great all in one lens that can do pretty good macro work and offer great codecs. 

Before all this camera talk...
Do you have an audio solution? If you don't already please allot budget into that. Many people who start off making videos think the camera comes with a mic. Yes it does but it's absolute shit. You have to take care to get clean audio. People will instantly kill any video with scratchy, hissy, muddy audio. 
 
 
Honestly we need to understand what you experience, willingness to learn, your subject, and your expectations. For instance if you're doing product reviews it may be okay to work with an premium bridge camera like the Panasonic FZ1000 or Sony's RX10. If you're looking for something more cinematic (story telling) you may want to go down the mirrorless route with like a Panaonic's new G7 or sony's A6000 an get some cheap old Canon FD lenses to complete the look. If it's action then it would be really cool to go GoPro 4 + 3-axis gimbal. If you plan to do photo and video then you're most likely looking at a Nikon 3xxx or 5xxx or a Canon Tx(i). (x's are potential model numbers, The higher the number the newer it is) 

I study at the University of Alberta going into 3rd year Electrical Engineering (Similar so far to CE minus a few courses) 
 
Honestly the biggest hurdle in Uni I found was just getting through the stuff you don't really care about. If your university is like mine you'll have to take a general year to qualify for a second year placement. You may be a brilliant programmer and know your circuits but the first year stuff is so broad it kills. The chem/physics are manageable (Basically first semester is repeat of HS, second semester is repeat of IB or AP). But the thing that kills most EE/CE guys is Statics and Dynamics (Think applied physics). These two courses are the killers of potential EE/CE kids, it's stuff that 90% of EE/CE kids will never take again but it's arguably the most difficult. <- If you're going to study anything before uni, check if you have to do these and get a general overview of them beforehand. 
 
The biggest thing I can advise is to get a strong work ethic before you go to university. You have to develop a good ethic of going to class, keeping on top of your homework. If you're uni is like mine you'll have 5-6 classes a semester + 2-4 labs + lab reports + seminars + weekly homework (About 1 hour per subject if you're keeping up with material 3 hours per subject if you're behind) + bi-weekly assignments (about 5-8 hours to complete one). This is not to scare you but to let you understand that the easy days of HS are over, you have to work hard at this. Honestly, the equipment is secondary to anything else. Going in I didn't know how to program "Hello World" or solder a IC, but what I did have was a good work ethic and it served me better than any knowledge of a particular subject did. 
 
Oh and this may seem harsh but learn to accept bad grades. Remember you're going into a school where the lowest grade is sometimes the highest in HS, everyone will, at one point, get hammered by an exam. (Imagine going from a 90% HS mark to a 65-75% Uni mark) You just got to get back up and knuckle down for the final. 

I use my BR on a Nikon D600 + grip + 80-200 2.8 and have never felt the screw come lose or slacked to the point i'm worried about it. (Attached to len's tripod collar not body)  

I think in the WAN show Linus wanted some feedback from the YouTube audience. I have a few comments and critics that I hope are helpful.
 
-I like the off the cuff unboxings but they should be done on a proper set (Like the old 2 bookshelf one). 
-The camera needs a more stability (The shaky cam crash zooms are dizzying) 
-The lighting needs to be more controlled. (The strong back light caused flaring and the sky is completely clipped -> Really unflattering image IMO).
-It looks like the camera was in auto exposure mode (A constant exposure would be better since it's not dimming and brightening on every closeup of anything black)
-Audio is good but still could benefit from a deadcat on the mic (Wind noise mostly + a little shirt rustling)
 
Switching to a shoulder mounted camera with a smooth power zoom on a proper set is what I would like to see. The format is good but I think the videography skills needs to step up to the quality that LMG is becoming known for.  

I think in the WAN show Linus wanted some feedback from the YouTube audience. I have a few comments and critics that I hope are helpful.
 
-I like the off the cuff unboxings but they should be done on a proper set (Like the old 2 bookshelf one). 
-The camera needs a more stability (The shaky cam crash zooms are dizzying) 
-The lighting needs to be more controlled. (The strong back light caused flaring and the sky is completely clipped -> Really unflattering image IMO).
-It looks like the camera was in auto exposure mode (A constant exposure would be better since it's not dimming and brightening on every closeup of anything black)
-Audio is good but still could benefit from a deadcat on the mic (Wind noise mostly + a little shirt rustling)
 
Switching to a shoulder mounted camera with a smooth power zoom on a proper set is what I would like to see. The format is good but I think the videography skills needs to step up to the quality that LMG is becoming known for.  

Need more information like price range, primes/zooms, what you're shooting, format (APS-C or Full Frame), ETC 
 
But the very simplest and probably worst answer would be look for the "Red Ring" lenses.
 
But there are some generally accepted "go to lenses" 
 
Normal: 
Canon 50mm 1.8 - Cheap and cheerful. Great cheap lens that's generally every bodies second lens after your kit lens
Canon 24-70 2.8 Mk2 - Great super sharp staple of the pro photographer's kit 
Tamron 24-70 2.8 VC - Great replacement for the Canon + has VC for video 
 
Portrait 
Cannon 85mm - Great portrait lens (Both 1.8 and 1.2 are great) 
 
Macro 
Canon 100mm - Great lens super sharp (Non-IS and IS versions are good) 
 
Sports / 
Canon 70-200 - The standard telephoto (Also a staple in a pro photographer's kit) 
OR
Tamron 70-200 VC - Cheaper option but still very good 
 
Landscape 
Tokina 11-20 2.8 - Only for APS-C sensors
Canon 17-40 F4 - Cheap and cheerful FF wide angle
Canon 11-24 F4 - New, Expensive, but absolutely wonderful lens  

Need more information like price range, primes/zooms, what you're shooting, format (APS-C or Full Frame), ETC 
 
But the very simplest and probably worst answer would be look for the "Red Ring" lenses.
 
But there are some generally accepted "go to lenses" 
 
Normal: 
Canon 50mm 1.8 - Cheap and cheerful. Great cheap lens that's generally every bodies second lens after your kit lens
Canon 24-70 2.8 Mk2 - Great super sharp staple of the pro photographer's kit 
Tamron 24-70 2.8 VC - Great replacement for the Canon + has VC for video 
 
Portrait 
Cannon 85mm - Great portrait lens (Both 1.8 and 1.2 are great) 
 
Macro 
Canon 100mm - Great lens super sharp (Non-IS and IS versions are good) 
 
Sports / 
Canon 70-200 - The standard telephoto (Also a staple in a pro photographer's kit) 
OR
Tamron 70-200 VC - Cheaper option but still very good 
 
Landscape 
Tokina 11-20 2.8 - Only for APS-C sensors
Canon 17-40 F4 - Cheap and cheerful FF wide angle
Canon 11-24 F4 - New, Expensive, but absolutely wonderful lens  

If you're looking for slow mo in your price range I think it's most likely looking into the FZ1000. If i recall correctly it does 4x slow mo (So 96fps) in 1080. Has a nice long tele zoom and lots of room in budget for a good set of sticks and a fluid head. 

So I finally got to a computer so I can expand on my post. 
 
You said you're going on vacation. I highly do not recommend looking into full frame gear for a vacation. It's unnecessarily bulky and heavy for traveling. I've traveled on vacation (air travel) in the past with my gear (FF body, 70-200, 24-70, 28-300, 14, 50, 85, speedlights). The first time I traveled, I brought it all and this is how it played out. By the second day the 70-200 got left behind in the hotel because it's just dam heavy. The following few days the primes stay because they're just inconvenient, and by a week in I only take my Body + 28-300. The weight, bulk, and constant need to rummage around and change lenses just kill my desire to actually use my good glass.  
 
Now when I travel I swap with my buddy for his crop + 18-200 + 35 1.8 and a GoPro. In my opinion that's the best combination. You're not lugging around pounds and pounds of gear and you don't have to think much about getting the shot, if it's daytime the superzoom is awesome because you get everything with a twist of your wrist, at night the 1.8 + pop up flash is a great combo. The GoPro is awesome because you can submerge it and basically do anything with it at the beach, it just offers a lot of freedom. (I like to shove a kitchen timer in my bag so I have instant panning time lapses).
 
For me you're going on vacation to have fun with buddies/family not mess about with camera settings and lenses. A camera on vacation is to document the amazing scenery and awesome moments on your travels. A pixelated noisey blurry selfie shot from a phone of you and your buddies going wild at a club is worth a lot more than a technically perfect picture of something that someone has already shot.  

So I finally got to a computer so I can expand on my post. 
 
You said you're going on vacation. I highly do not recommend looking into full frame gear for a vacation. It's unnecessarily bulky and heavy for traveling. I've traveled on vacation (air travel) in the past with my gear (FF body, 70-200, 24-70, 28-300, 14, 50, 85, speedlights). The first time I traveled, I brought it all and this is how it played out. By the second day the 70-200 got left behind in the hotel because it's just dam heavy. The following few days the primes stay because they're just inconvenient, and by a week in I only take my Body + 28-300. The weight, bulk, and constant need to rummage around and change lenses just kill my desire to actually use my good glass.  
 
Now when I travel I swap with my buddy for his crop + 18-200 + 35 1.8 and a GoPro. In my opinion that's the best combination. You're not lugging around pounds and pounds of gear and you don't have to think much about getting the shot, if it's daytime the superzoom is awesome because you get everything with a twist of your wrist, at night the 1.8 + pop up flash is a great combo. The GoPro is awesome because you can submerge it and basically do anything with it at the beach, it just offers a lot of freedom. (I like to shove a kitchen timer in my bag so I have instant panning time lapses).
 
For me you're going on vacation to have fun with buddies/family not mess about with camera settings and lenses. A camera on vacation is to document the amazing scenery and awesome moments on your travels. A pixelated noisey blurry selfie shot from a phone of you and your buddies going wild at a club is worth a lot more than a technically perfect picture of something that someone has already shot.  

So I finally got to a computer so I can expand on my post. 
 
You said you're going on vacation. I highly do not recommend looking into full frame gear for a vacation. It's unnecessarily bulky and heavy for traveling. I've traveled on vacation (air travel) in the past with my gear (FF body, 70-200, 24-70, 28-300, 14, 50, 85, speedlights). The first time I traveled, I brought it all and this is how it played out. By the second day the 70-200 got left behind in the hotel because it's just dam heavy. The following few days the primes stay because they're just inconvenient, and by a week in I only take my Body + 28-300. The weight, bulk, and constant need to rummage around and change lenses just kill my desire to actually use my good glass.  
 
Now when I travel I swap with my buddy for his crop + 18-200 + 35 1.8 and a GoPro. In my opinion that's the best combination. You're not lugging around pounds and pounds of gear and you don't have to think much about getting the shot, if it's daytime the superzoom is awesome because you get everything with a twist of your wrist, at night the 1.8 + pop up flash is a great combo. The GoPro is awesome because you can submerge it and basically do anything with it at the beach, it just offers a lot of freedom. (I like to shove a kitchen timer in my bag so I have instant panning time lapses).
 
For me you're going on vacation to have fun with buddies/family not mess about with camera settings and lenses. A camera on vacation is to document the amazing scenery and awesome moments on your travels. A pixelated noisey blurry selfie shot from a phone of you and your buddies going wild at a club is worth a lot more than a technically perfect picture of something that someone has already shot.  

No. Please don't do this. 
I did this myself (from d5100 -> d600) 
You NEED GLASS with your body. You will miss having a wide angle, you will miss having a zoom. Honestly without the glass it's not worth it.