Nocturn

Get GPU-Z and check the PCI-E speed/lanes.

If you just care about CPU overclocking, basically every board better than the Z790 Aorus Elite will clock the CPU exactly the same. I'm guessing you want a white board, which if you don't really care much about memory overclocking a couple options are the Z690 Force from MSI (this will require a BIOS update, but at $300 it makes most other high end boards irrelevant), Z790 Edge, ASUS Z790-A Prime, Z790-A Strix, NZXT N7 Z790, and Gigabyte Z790 Aero G. Tastes are pretty subjective, so take a look at all of those and see if there's any of them that you think look cool. 

So at 19feet (6m), you will probably need to look into getting an active or optical cable my friend. At that distance, passive HDMI 2.1 will still work, but not at it's full capability. Here are a few options:
 
Cable Matters:                                    -                                  https://a.co/d/c9cMBLZ KabelDirekt (I would particularly recommend this one):  -  https://a.co/d/7Yf3lbz

On Ubiquiti's side I decided to run Their USW-Aggregation with some of their 1 / 2.5 / 5 / 10 GB SFP+ Modules (Early Access when I bought them)
Can work out quite expensive but works for my needs.

Mikrotik and ubiquiti will be the cheapest options for new 10/5/2.5 gb switches. You might be able to get a cheaper one used on ebay, but most older 10gb switches don't support 2.5 or 5 gb. My choice would be the Ubiquiti xg24.

it’s a 4090, no need to throw it in a fire- just run Furmark overnight

It's a spooky graphics card for halloween

I'm not positive, so take this with a grain of salt but I'm pretty sure they use just the Nvidia supplied board at least on all of them besides maybe the AMP Extreme variant. The only custom thing they do really is cooling which they do fine. I've never had problems with Zotac cards and for the most part they really haven't had too many problems in the past either. I'd say you're more than likely just fine.

With most aftermarket board partners it is hit or miss depending on what SKU and what generation. Almost all companies have had stellar cards and cards plagued with issues. 
 
I would watch https://www.youtube.com/c/ActuallyHardcoreOverclocking/videos
As they usually have a breakdown of specifics for flagship GPUs that will help determine if it's a good or bad product.
 
Personally I have owned 2 Zotac cards. A GTX980ti Amp Extreme and a GTX1080 Amp Extreme. Both overclocked into the top 5% of cards and were only on air cooling. In contrast though the Zotac Amp is a steaming pile of garbage with VRMs that hit 105C and are likely to fail. 

Huh a bad sample, or you are just running at high temps
 
Ryzen 7000 is hot because the terrible ihs design, its too thicc which means direct die can yeild ~20c drop at higher ocs (1.2v+ 5.4+), der8aur made a vid on direct die ryzen 7000 so check that out. You will need to direct die to even make use of your custom loop with ryzen 7000
 
If you wanna have a go at ryzen 7000 sure go ahead, though 32gbit ics arent in the hands of consumers atm so youll be stuck at 128gb in a terrible quad rank configuration (overly stresses the imc) which will pretty much nuke any futureproofing with ddr5 (any ic that isnt garbage micron 16gbit a die does 7000 atleast which should be enough to ride out most if not all of the ddr5 generation with a kit you buy now)

Yes, they both use the standard G1/4 threading. Same with Corsair, Bitspower, EK, Xspc, etc. 

Im using a Modmymods and a Micro Connector adapters on my rig.
But they are only a 6x2 cable. Didnt find a better one. But works all the same on my 3090.

Something else to note, it is recommended to use 16 AWG cables on the Nvidia FE cables, I believe the Strimers are 18 AWG unless something has changed on those. Worth looking at though.

If you want RGB, the EK Velocity and Supremacy blocks are solid, same with whatever the latest Corsair block is. Personally I really like Heatkiller blocks, they perform really well and are super cheap (for a waterblock), but they don't really have RGB on them. 

The AP22 requires 802.11f PoE which is between 44-57V and at maximum, 10.1W.
 
It should work OK using the 48V injectors, but you might hit a antenna output maximum if you configure it to it's highest settings or overload the AP with too many wireless clients.

You can try this (at your own risk, I haven’t tested this, make sure to have a backup): https://community.ui.com/questions/How-to-recover-access-to-a-unifi-controller-when-the-admin-password-has-been-lost-/bea32e54-c8cd-4d08-ba98-b836acebfeb4

Juniper's Mist
HP's Aruba (enterprise)
HP's Aruba Instant On (small business)
Cisco's Meraki (Enterprise)
Cisco's Meraki Go (small business)

This has a good power supply
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0745GHN53/?&dc&camp=1789&creative=9325&linkCode=ur2&tag=egpu2017-20&ref=as_li_qf_sp_sr_tl

CPU Limited game.
OC frequency to gain FPS.
I don't think it uses more than 4cores, and of those 4, only 1 might be the render thread.
4.8Ghz 4790k and the same.. 110-130fps and underutilized GPU.

It isn't a very optimized game, it isn't designed to be able to get more than 100fps. The engine can break it barely but it's definitely not optimized enough for 240fps no matter the gpu. That being said, I can see why you would be confused as that GPU utilization is very low, life of a 3090 I suppose haha.

So for LOLs I decided to launch GTA V on 3090 and for some reason the game only uses 8-15% in offline and like 5-8% in online.
 
I am stuck at 100-120fps on a 240/1440p monitor.
 
Does anybody know what is going on?
 
CPU usage is at 25%
Per Core: one core is stuck has max usage of 70% and it is not even the boosted one
10980xe OC to 4.5 + boost cores to 4.7

that video is lowkey dangerous and misleading, he didnt fully load GPU and CPU at the same time to test full load situation
gaming doesnt load the CPU much.
 
so 650W might not be enough if someone runs something like a folding software where it pins cpu and gpu both at 100%

Probably their end.

Yes I got 1 from NewEgg

#thanksCOVID-19