Meganter

Y'all weird.

Y'all weird.

Y'all weird.

Y'all weird.

Y'all weird.

My cat Penelope (Penny). I got her around thanksgiving while I was in a rough patch. She has been amazing and I love her very much. She is very cuddly when I get home from work. She enjoys being swaddled, dont know why but she does. (Don't worry its loose she gets out when she is done or wants to do something else) Here she is in all her glory

any pictures?

As soon as the pandemic chills out a bit, I'm gonna get a cat. Or two. Or twelve.
 
I love cats. 😄

Are you just trying to define a term by the roots of the word? Because that doesn't work a lot of the time. Photovoltaic is a term that refers to the creation of an electric potential via a technically chemical process, as it's a result of the behavior of an electron. It's very very far from a chemical reaction.

Sell it now, mining is not profitable with just one card.

??? What chemical reactions?

Why are you randomly tagging me in a random post? Do not interact with me. User ignored.

The complete setup.
- Dell S2721DGFA ( completely worth the 380 euros)
- Zowie FK2 + Leopold keyboard with cheap but nice wooden wrist rest
- Sound: Adam A5X (bought factory refurbished) with a Resonessence Labs Concero HD dac (bought used).
- Amazon monitor stand: KB + mouse fit under it easily (as dust-'shelter' when I'm not home).
 
 
The cooling backplate of the Asus Crosshair 8 Impact

The 2 'organ donors'

 
The 3 cases side by side

 
How the NR200P turned out with the Noctua U12A. The side panel fits on without a millimeter to spare. 

Specs:
- Sliger Cerberus
- CPU: AMD 5900x
- GPU: 6900xt reference
- PSU: Corsair SF750 (stock cables)
- MOBO: Asus Crosshair 8 Impact
- RAM: 32gb G.Skill Trident Z Neo 3600 C16 (straight timings / B-Die)
- CPU cooler: Noctua C14S
- Fans: 3x Arctic P12 (intake) + 1x Noctua A9 Chromax (outtake)
- 4x 120mm mesh dust filters. 3 on the Noctua rubber mounting plus (on the outside) and 1 magnetic before the PSU
- Samsung 970 Evo Plus 2tb
 
How this build came to be:
Build a system in summer 2020 in a Lian-Li TU150 with placeholders for CPU and GPU: 2700x + 1660Ti. Gallery on PcPartPicker
I came from an old Xeon x58 system, so it already was a serious upgrade.
 
The 5900x: I got it 2 weeks after launch, after ordering at the exact minute of launch.
The 6900XT: In December I got very lucky to be able to order it from AMD directly. I wanted a 6800XT, but those really are impossible to find a decent prices. It was way more than I wanted to spend but I just got lucky and I knew it so I clicked the order button.
Already did a thermal pad mod: 
 
 
In the meantime, I swapped the SF600 for a SF750. For the SF600 and the 1660 Ti I built an extra complete PC. 1) Because I might need it when I'll live at 2 different places in the near future 2) because I'm into distributed computing (BOINC / Folding at Home) and 3) just becaused I wanted to.
At launch of the 3060 Ti, I just tried and was able to order a MSI Gaming X trio (499 euros) and got it 2 days later. Had trouble fitting it into the TU-150, so kept it for the new build.
 
So in november / december I built the following
- CM Nr200p 
- a used 3950x (450 euros)
- Asus B550i-Strix (30 euro cash back)
- G skill Trident Z 3200 C14 (Samsung B die) 2x16gb, used at a great price
- Corsair SF600 Platinum (from other pc)
- Noctua C14s
- Arctic P12 value pack (5 for 26 euros)
 
When the 6900XT arrived, it became very clear that a Lian-Li TU-150 couldn’t handle the heat output of a high-powered GPU. High load on GPU would also raise the CPU temps by a lot. The heat was really stuck below the top panel (above the cpu cooler). You could really feel the difference on the outside of the case The case just needs to be more vented or needs more outtake fans. 
I looked at the Sliger s610 and s620 as well, but went for the Cerberus so I could use full size fans on the bottom (quieter) with some space between the fans and the GPU (no turbulence).
Also, the width of the Cerberus is perfect for a Noctua c14s (S610 is too small: fan needs to be behind heat sink so warm air from gpu gets sucked into the heatsink. S620 is too wide, the fan would be too far from the panel. Plus, I prefer the aesthetic proportions of the Cerberus).
So I also swapped the C14s and U12a between builds.
 
- The case was very light when I took it out of the box. Somehow, I expected more heft to it.
- While building I discovered that I could NOT fit a 15mm fan on top (under the handle). So I bought a P12 Slim for nothing (luckily it was cheap) and now I only got 1x 92mm for exhaust. But I think the current 3 P12’s take in enough air to purge out the warm air through the vents. Also, there is plenty of space behind the C14S for a ‘chimney effect’.
- The arctic p12’s can deliver a lot more fresh air to the GPU than 2x Noctua a12x15’s can, while being quieter. Probably also got to do with the fact that the bottom grill on the TU-150 was way more restrictive.
- The case could (imo) be more vented on the motherboard side (like the S610 / s620).
- The panel behind the motherboard is hotter than the other side under full load. Glad I went vented instead of solid. Also helps the cooling backplate of the mobo.
- The handle feels so much better than the handle on the TU-150. No wiggle, no flex.
- GPU temps are way better than in the TU-150 without sidepanel.
 
For those who don't know the case: a high end, 18L small USA made case with solid powder coated aluminum panels.

@FakeNSA so Den DM-ed me after i posted that previous photo, and suggested i change some lightings, so here's the new photo

 
Den helped cropped out some of the mess on the sides, much appreciated.

Specs:
CPU - AMD 5950X 
GPU - EVGA 3090 FTW3 Ultra
RAM - 2x Corsair vengeance Pro RGB 16GB (@ 3800MHZ C18)
Mobo - ASUS Crosshair VIII Impact 
Case - Lian Li O11D Mini
Fans - Corsair QL120
PSU - Corsair SF750
Cooling -  All EK Blocks and Components (Except Fittings): 
    -CPU Block - EK Velocity D-RGB Nickel + Acetal
    -GPU Block - EK Quantum Vector FTW3 RTX 3080/3090 D-RGB - Nickel + Acetal
    -Radiators - 2x EK PE360
    -Reservoir  -  EK FLT240
    -Fittings - Primochill Revolver 
    -Coolant - EK Mystic Fog
 
All EK Block / Res RGB modified with MX2.54 Dupont connector for use with Corsairs ecosystem meaning everything controlled via iCue
 
Cable combs are my own 3D Prints, unfortunately 32 pin combs don't exist and the way the 8 pin EPS is positioned on this board it seemed too perfect.

So, 18 months from idea to reality, I really wanted to try and use 45deg bends as I'd not seen many tubing runs use anything other than a 90deg bend and after trying it I completely understand why. I originally started planning this as I finally took the plunge on an ultrawide and settled on the 38GN950 but my old 980Ti just wasn't cutting it and my 6700k was beginning to show it's age also so what better time to upgrade. Unfortunately that's when the "human malware" came into play seemed to make securing the parts almost a second job. As soon as I'd seen the case at CES 2020 I knew it was perfect for what I sketched up in Fusion 360 however it was only 2 weeks ago I received it. The delays on components have been crazy as I'm sure you're all aware.
 
Anyway, fast forward to today and here I am, One finished build.
 
In any case (pun intended) if you are looking for a small (ish) form factor case I'd highly recommend the O11D Mini, It's incredible.
 
Questions welcome.

A PSU does NOT push power, power is drawn by the components. You would need a PSU that has a dedicated system inside to detect and communicate with each component in the entire system to do anything close to what you're asking for.
 
Maybe the fact that it's 2021 and people still think PSUs can make magic and expect them to wipe their butts is the problem?

Well, something is, and it's not technology. Also, language. You make yourself look like you are a 14 year old throwing a tantrum.
That's not how it works at all. The PSU supplies a constant voltage of 12V, 5V, 3.3V and -12V, and the components regulate the current.
What would happen with any halfway decent PSU (and many garbage ones) is that they will safely shut down without damaging anything.
Well, that is completely wrong. So....
It is a default thing, and it does not fry the PSU, unless the protections are set up improperly.
Yes
If you find this difficult, I recommend finding an adult (or anyone knowledgeable over the age of like 12) to help guide you. While you're at it, look up anger management courses 🙂

HI LTT All the bends are done, all the lights are installed and tested and I had a lot of trouble putting it in to the Terminal but now i am excited to show you the final results ...       This are the final pics of my Projekt: +1 Hacking-Skill required                                             Specs:   Board: ASUS ROG STRIX B-360 I-GAMING   CPU: Intel Core I5-8400   GPU: Gainward GeForce GTX 1650 Pegasus OC 4GB GDDR6   SSD: Samsung Evo 970 NVMe SSD   Ram: G.Skill Trident Z RGB DDR4-3000 16 GB   PSU: Cooler Master V750 Gold V2 , 80 Plus Gold       Cooling:   Block/Pump/: Alphacool Eisbaer Aurora   Reservoir: Custom made glass bottle.   Radiator: 2x EK-Coolstream PE 240   GPU-Block: EK-VGA Supremacy   Fan: 4x Noctua Chromax Low profile     Keyboard:   DZ60 custom made with Cherry Mx blue switches.     Mouse:   USB-Touchpad     Screen:   SUNFOUNDER 10.1’’ IPS Monitor       Everything is inside and works like a real PC. You can play games like Fallout with it or hack it like a real terminal, but only with Windows as the operating system... xD       The specs are not the same as other mods or the best gaming rigs, I understand, but this is all about the terminal itself and manufacturing, the hardware is secondary here.       Thank you for for taking the time to read my work log, i wish you a nice weekend. 

Hello and welcome to my new PC build, successor to the "White Heaven" S340 build I did 6 years ago!
 
Introduction
 
The goal for this computer was a proper full custom loop with emphasis on silence and reliability.
 
I previously tried a Fractal Design Kelvin S24, but the pump made the whole case vibrate since it was directly mounted to the CPU.
I sold that cooler and went back to the H100i I bought almost 10 years ago (still going strong!) because it was quieter.
After saving up for a while and buying loop parts here and there, now was finally the time to get all the parts together and do a complete redesign.
I had spent so many years planning the loop and everything else that PC parts kept updating and evolving quickly so instead of an upgrade/rebuild I ended up doing a completely new build.
 
 
The Cooling Decision
 
I am aware that the quietest PC is a passive one, but after the mediocre and expensive launch of the Calyos passive cooling case, I decided to avoid going that route.
The next best option is a large heatsink like an NH-D15 or Bequiet Dark Rock cooler, since they have only fans and no pump.
I wanted a liquid cooling loop for aesthetics and combined CPU+GPU cooling, because while a CPU heatsink can keep a CPU cool while being quiet, it is hard to find similar aftermarket GPU heatsinks that are big and quiet.
Either way, I wanted something that would not cover up the motherboard and other components.
AIOs were out of the question, so a custom loop is all that was left (no phase change today, sorry guys 😞 )
 
 
Silence Modifications
 
My goal was to build a very quiet computer, so there were three factors to take into account:
1. Fans
2. Pump
3. Noise dampening
 
For the fans I chose Noiseblocker e-loop B12-PS and B14-PS, for their beautiful aesthetics but also for their high static pressure at low RPMs.
These fans have excellent PWM control and can be driven down to only a few hundred rpm for near-silence.
Their large blades also make them great for radiators because of the high static pressure.
 
For the pump I went with dual EK D5s.
The D5 pump is the best and most reliable PC watercooling pump that exists, and by using two of them I get redundancy in case one ever fails.
The PWM control on the EK version of the D5 also allows them to be driven at even lower speeds, down to ~1500rpm which is much quieter than the default 4000+rpm they usually run at.
 
For noise dampening I chose Acousti Acoustipack multi-layer dampened foam.
Unlike regular cheap foam you've probably seen before, this stuff has suspended layers of high density material within the foam for more noise dampening rather than just reflection absorption.
I used 3 layer foam wherever it fit, since it is half an inch thick, and 1 or 2 layer foam elsewhere.
Almost the entire interior of the case is covered in it, the top, front, back, entire PSU compartment, etc.
 
 
Watercooling Loop Reliability
 
Hearing about fittings leaking, reservoirs cracking, waterblocks being clogged, and so many other problems I was a little concerned about custom loops.
I wanted something simple and reliable, that could last 10+ years without issues just like my H100i did (although I got lucky because I have seen many of those fail too)
Here are the decisions I made to increase loop reliability as much as possible:
 
Used a D5 pump, the most reliable and well known PC watercooling pump Used two pumps (using the EK X-TOP Revo Dual D5) for redundancy in case one pump fails Used soft tubing instead of hardline Used clear fluid instead of dyes/colours Used high quality Bitspower fittings only Used barb fittings instead of compression fittings Used tubing clamps on all fittings Used minimal rotary fittings (I had to use two, one because the case blocked a radiator port and one in the cramped basement where the pumps are) Used a T-line instead of a reservoir  
Watercooling Loop Components
 
Hardwarelabs Black Ice Nemesis 280GTS radiator (painted white by performance-pcs)
Hardwarelabs Black Ice Nemesis 120GTS radiator (painted white by performance-pcs)
Noiseblocker e-loop B12-PS and 2x B14-PS fans
EK Radeon Vega GPU waterblock
EK Supremacy EVO full nickel CPU waterblock
EK Monarch ram heatsinks (custom painted white, not watercooled)
EK X-TOP Revo Dual D5 pump top
EK D5 PWM controlled pumps (x2)
Bitspower 1/2" white barb fittings with 3/4" clamps, and some rotary fittings and a T-fitting
Mayhems UV white tubing 1/2" ID 3/4" OD (Used clear tubing for the T-line to see water level)
EK Cryofuel clear premixed coolant
 
 
PC components
 
Case: NZXT H500
CPU: AMD Ryzen 3950X
GPU: AMD Radeon Vega Frontier Edition
Motherboard: ASUS Ace X570 Pro WS
RAM: 64GB Corsair Vengenance LPX (modded with EK Monarch heatsinks painted white)
Storage: Samsung 512GB 970 Pro (OS) + 1TB 980 Pro (storage)
PSU: Seasonic Prime Fanless Titanium TX-700
Cables: @CableModcustom sleeved Modmesh Pro white cables (all cables, 24 pin, 8 pin CPU, dual 8 pin GPU)
Sound dampening foam: Acousti Acoustipack Ultimate Plus (used 1, 2 and 3 layer types used)
LED lighting: Darkside CONNECT G2 rigid LED strip white (dimmable, connected to motherboard fan header so I can adjust brightness from the UEFI)
 
Peripherals:
Mouse: Logitech MX Master 2s light gray
Keyboard: Coolermaster SK630 white (Cherry MX RGB low profile mechanical switch)
Webcam: Logitech Brio 4k
Audio interface: Scarlett 2i4 Gen 2
Microphones: 2x Audio Technica AT2020 white
Monitor: Samsung NU7100 58" 4k TV
Speakers: (not purchased yet, planning to buy Adam Audio T8V)
 
Pictures
 

 
 
 
 
 

 
 
 
 
 

 
 
 
 
 

 
 
 
 
 

 
 
 
 
 

 
 
 
 
 

 
 
 
 
 

 
 
Final Thoughts
 
The loop was harder to build than I expected.
It took a lot of planning, and at one point I even modeled my tubing runs with a mockup case and PC components in Solidworks.
Filling the loop without a reservoir was difficult but not impossible, I ran the loop using a flower vase as my reservoir until all the bubbles were out.
Then I flipped the case and connected the tubing at the highest point so that the final air bubble was at the top, then topped it off using the T-line.
This essentially meant I had close to 0 bubbles in the loop, and it definitely sounds extremely quiet, if there were bubbles going through the pumps it would be noisy,
I hope I never have to do maintenance or take it apart though haha
 
I also wanted to wait for the 5950X but it was going to take a while for the stores to stock it, and when they did I was sure it was going to immediately sell out, so I ended up buying a 3950X from craigslist instead, for two thirds of what the 5950X would cost new.
The Vega FE was also bought on craigslist for a very good price.
I wanted that card because of the high raw performance and 16GB of HBM2 vram which would benefit me in Solidworks or machine learning/machine vision applications.
It was also much cheaper than a quadro.
 
Overall I think the build turned out excellent.
Great performance, super low noise, and amazing looking loop.
I think if I could change one thing I would have gone with the regular black HWlabs radiators, I find the white ones add too much white to the theme.
I wanted a black interior with white accents on the tubing and wires, but then thought maybe I should do all the watercooling components white.
I chose to not make the PGU white because I figured it would be too much white at that point, and I see now that even the radiators were too much.
It still looks very cool though IMO.
 
 
 
Let me know your thoughts and what you would have done differently!
Thanks for reading 🙂 
 

Hey all,

Just wanna put it out there because TECHNICALLY my config shouldn't work due to height clearance (170mm vs 176mm). Once assembled I have probably around a paper's width of clearance left between the glass and top of the cooler.
 
(!)Case: Corsair 4000D Airflow (!)Ram: Trident-Z Neo 3600Mhz 16GB x 2 (!)CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-D15  
Other stuff:
CPU: Ryzen 3700x Motherboard:Aorus X570 Pro Wifi GPU: 3080 Amp Holo PSU: Seasonic TX-1000 Gold Storage: Adata XPG SX8200 Pro 1TB + 2 x 250 Samsung 840 evo + 1 TB WD Black. Fans: Back: 120mm NH-F12 LTT Top: 140mm NH-A14 Chromax Front 2 x 140mm NH-A14  
Hopefully it will help others when researching parts. I was prepared to swap the front CPU fan with a 120mm fan if it hits the case window.
 
P/S: Pardon the crappy pictures. Crappy lighting due to rona.

Keep in mind what you are trying to do is fraud, which is illegal.
No one in their right mind would help you pull of this fraud.
 

https://www.merriam-webster.com/dictionary/fraud

yyyeeeeaaaaaaaaaaaa... not gonna get assistance from us in pulling a scam against a company.