superwolfkin

Finally took the time to remove the video card and I was able to see post and get into UEFI.
 
Long story short I'm back in business able to switch back and forth between the two boot drives now after a fashion.
 
The only setting that I changed and I do remember changing this was a setting that I'm too lazy to get the exact wording for but basically was how many seconds to hold before boot. I think it was 6seconds before and I do remember dropping that 1s.
 
That doesn't explain to me why I was seeing not output especially when pushing my Del key did seem to put me into the UEFI (blind). Anyway I changed that to 9s and tested it a few times and it's all good. I had a minor scare when I forgot to plug the power to the graphics card back in but aside from that it was relatively smooth getting back up and running.
 
Thank you for the idea @PineyCreek. I can finally get back to learning Linux on the weekends.
 

Tried removing the RX 580 to see if the motherboard outputs work after that?
 
I will say on my 1080Ti with my Asrock X370 Taichi I never see anything Asrock or BIOS-related (or anything) on my DisplayPort screen until Windows starts loading.  To see the Asrock logo on power-on or do anything in BIOS, I have to be connected to the DVI port on the card.  Just mentioning that as a datapoint; I don't have an APU nor a motherboard with display outputs.

This is something that needs to be supported by the hardware and/or its drivers, so we'd need to know which laptop model you have.
 
Apparently Windows on its own does not support this, but e.g. on Linux there is a software that can do it for Intel cards (in alsa-tools > /usr/bin/hdajackretask), but they give no guarantee that it works for everyone.

https://www.amazon.com/UGREEN-External-Headphone-Microphone-Desktops/dp/B01N905VOY 

Usually i have my Sennheiser HD 598 plugged into a random audio switch I got on Amazon. I have the other side attached to some random deskspeakers my sister had for when I don't want to have headphones on.
 
It's fine for the most part but I have issues with things like when I want to hear my switch lagfree or listen to my firestick. Both of which plug into my monitors and both of which have 3.5mm plugs sticking out the bottom to insert into my switch when I want to hear audio from them because my switch does a decent job of switching outputs but it doesn't really switch inputs so I have to unplug and replug. I also think my headphones are too quiet I might have introduced too much resistance in my setup or something.
 
Every time I start looking at solutions I keep starting at an audio interface but three different in puts I want to manage and two outputs and maybe my mic (right now it's a USB Snowball but maybe I want to get a TRS or XLR mic) and I keep ended up looking at mixers.
 
EarTrumpet is my software of choice for audio control. That and VB-Virtual Cable are kinda awesome.

oh, i missed that bit, then yes, teamviewer is nice.

I would change the case as it has poor airflow might as well get the cheap mesh one. Ssd might run into space issues real quick but as a cheap new build this is about as good as it gets. Otherwise it's trying luck in the used market.

Don't know if this helps or not, Because this is above your budget. You'll be able to lower cost if you get some used parts tho. Something like this should be good for your needs.
PCPartPicker Part List
CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 5600G 3.9 GHz 6-Core Processor  (£199.50 @ Technextday) 
Motherboard: Gigabyte B550M DS3H Micro ATX AM4 Motherboard  (£73.99 @ Currys PC World) 
Memory: Crucial Ballistix 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3200 CL16 Memory  (£54.99 @ Box Limited) 
Storage: Crucial P2 250 GB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive  (£28.99 @ Amazon UK) 
Case: KOLINK Citadel MicroATX Mini Tower Case  (£33.00 @ Currys PC World) 
Power Supply: KOLINK ENCLAVE 600 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply  (£49.99 @ Currys PC World) 
Total: £440.46
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2022-02-17 11:31 GMT+0000

Yes. Megatransfers is the actual unit for those numbers, not MHz.
 
You'll notice memory is not listed as "2133 MHz", usually it's just "DDR3 2133". That is because it doesn't actually operate at 2133 MHz, it operates at 1066.6 MHz, but because it's DDR it does two operations per cycle, so it's as if it were 2133 MHz, but it technically isn't. So the proper unit to use would be 2133 MT/s which is the actual number of transfer operations that occur rather than the frequency, since those are no longer the same number with DDR memory. So you can think of "MT/s" as basically "effective MHz".

My old drive started making weird noise I was paranoid so I bought new one same model I had installed it and it still makes the same noise what is the problem? I checked that sound isn't click of death or anything like that. That weird noise is quiet on IDLE but it's still there, when playing games or installing anything on that drive the sound increases A LOT and it just keeps like clicking until I pause or cancel download or close the game On some games it's only loud when loading map for example when standing still in GTA 5 I can hear that weird sound but not so loud the moment I start to move and game has to load stuff it gets loud I'm really mad because I just spend 50$ on drive that still makes that same noise. I'm thinking maybe it's something to do with STANDART SATA  ACHI FAMILY driver or something like that. I haven't heard that noise on my old motherboard I start hearing it after few weeks of my motherboard upgrade and I noticed that my driver used to be Series 300 chipset ACHI family now it's STANDART SATA  ACHI FAMILY and when I go to browse for automatic windows driver update it only show that one STANDART SATA  ACHI FAMILY and no other.(I hope you understand what I meant)

For the past three or so years I've been postponing getting a new phone, just because I just don't like what is out there on the market currently. That which I dislike includes lack of reparability, little to no phones with microSD expansion, but mainly notches/holepunches/etc.
 
When those screen disruptions started to appear I had hoped it would be a year or two thing, where companies would make phones with it, realize "Oh wait, no one likes this" and move back to a design with a thin headbar, rather than any form of screen disruption. But alas, they have not (yet?!) moved away from notches/holepunches, so I will continue to wait.
A lot of people have mentioned you'll quickly get used to it, but it's just not something I want to get used to. I don't want one of my devices to have an ugly screen disruption, while all my other devices don't have it. I feel like the only one this screen disruption benefits is the company making the device, as they can now boast a higher screen-to-body ratio.
 
 
I don't even use the front-facing camera, so these screen disruptions are to accommodate a - for me - unused feature. Why don't they put this much effort in adding a feature such as the headphone jack again!? Alas, I've given up all hope on that ever coming back, so have I given up most of my hope for a notch-less phone too.
It's fine if people use the front camera, it's fine if people are okay with notches; I just don't want one on my device, but I'll probably have to cave in some day
 

Is it just me, or is the new video missing the introduction with the music? Just making sure i'm not going crazy.

Nope, I  think I missed it

why is the entire post a link, and why dont you have paragraphs and full stops?
 
actual readable version:
 

An AV receiver might be a good choice, especially given you have some stuff with old outputs you need to connect. No monitor has composite connections nowadays.

already posted this on your other post. best budget gpu is the rx570. also the 3600 for 256 is much much better than the 1600 for 250
 
PCPartPicker Part List Type Item Price CPU AMD Ryzen 5 3600 3.6 GHz 6-Core Processor $256.95 @ Vuugo Motherboard ASRock B450M Pro4-F Micro ATX AM4 Motherboard $82.27 @ Vuugo Memory G.Skill Aegis 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3200 Memory $95.99 @ Newegg Canada Storage Team GX1 240 GB 2.5" Solid State Drive $47.99 @ Amazon Canada Video Card Gigabyte Radeon RX 570 4 GB GAMING Video Card $159.99 @ Canada Computers Case Deepcool MATREXX 30 MicroATX Mini Tower Case $59.99 @ Canada Computers Power Supply Corsair CX (2017) 450 W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply $84.99 @ Amazon Canada   Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts     Total (before mail-in rebates) $813.17   Mail-in rebates -$25.00   Total $788.17   Generated by PCPartPicker 2020-05-05 15:04 EDT-0400    

Thanks! The ROG is a bit to expensive, should have clarified my budget (around 100-150), but the Gigabyte is quite nice. As the case is black only with silver rods holding the tempered glass, going for a black and silver build would be a viable option. Do you happen to know any other silver/black mobo's?

Unfortunately at M-ITX, there isn't really any white boards. you can try the Gigabyte B450 I AORUS PRO WIFI, has mostly Silver VRM heatsinks. Same for the ROG STRIX X370-I GAMING. 
 
The only truly white AM4 board i know of is the MSI B450M MORTAR TITANIUM. Unfortunately it is M-ATX so it doesn't really fit your use case.

The title on youtube should be the same as here, $830 is in no way budget for just a laptop. For me, budget gaming laptop could even have a 1050, medium/low in 1080p is not so bad on a mobile device. What is unacceptable though is 6bit panel, if it's anything like the other I've seen, I wouldn't touch the 5 version with a stick. 60Hz on the other hand seems fine, so I have to disagree with the screen section of the review.

I am really frustrated that it seems nobody cares about image quality. Gamers want as many Hz as possible, so you can have 120Hz+ screen cheaply, but if you want 1440p+  with good contrast and anything close to HDR, you're out of luck. TN is still being put over VA and IPS too usually, but then you try to watch the infamous GOT battle of Winterfell and see nothing. Computer screens are TNs that look not much better than my $80 ~10 year old display, IPSes with average contrast and that damn glow/uneven backlight, and VAs which are inferior to any VA that is put into TVs. I just don't get it, Netflix and Facebook don't need low input lag, why does it look like nobody cares about that? Is there no writer(?) in LMG who would want to rant about the poor selection of monitors that don't focus on FPS?

Nearly 9 minutes in and I am still waiting for the budget laptop. Probably budget for gaming laptops, but I wouldn't have wasted my time clicked on it if "gaming" had been in the title.  When I hear budget, I think of  $500€, maybe 600 max.
 
Those laptops look neat if it weren't for those red keys. They also offer a cheaper build on amazon with a Ryzen 5 and a RX 560 for 730€ but I have no idea, nor can i estimate, how that one would compare to the versions in the video.

Aria PC have deals everyday, you can find them here!
 
https://www.aria.co.uk/Deal4Today

Hitfilm express is free.

Why you should be using 7zip /s

I understand compressing something that can't be compressed further can increase the file size, but I've never seen anything increase in size this much. Odd.

Also, every one was downloading their free copy of Morrowind

You do not need to convert the files to WAV beforehand.
 
Use a CD Authoring program to burn a Music CD.
 
Options:
Windows Media Player
iTunes (note: you'll have to convert from FLAC to ALAC first - but the process is lossless and file sizes remain similar)
Etc
 
Here's a guide with multiple recommendations, and the steps for each one:
https://www.apowersoft.com/burn-cd-windows-10.html