GeoSquigg

should be fine, I'm 2 cores down but also smaller wraith stealth unlike the 2600 stock cooler which is slightly better. I got a 4.0 overclock as well as a 1650mhz on the apu and stick around the mid 60s when gaming and upper 70s when benching/stress-testing

if you add 2 more intakes, make the 2 top exhaust 

went over to a mates place to help him with some basic computer maintenance, cable management and rebuilding (see below)
 
my girlfriend came along to hang with my mates girl. She looked at what we were doing and asked "is that what over clocking is?" we both just looked at her for a few seconds before face palming and the showing her later what overclocking is lol
 
 
~~guy that helped my mate build it was a knob as far a i can tell. 
 
-plugged fans direct to PSU via molex
-had every cable of a semi modular psu plugged in and just stuffed in the case
-had a dual channel kit running in single channel.
-Said only the 4 corner mobo screws needed screwed in
-Told buddy that the prongs on the io shield needed to fold into the port to keep it steady
-Only 3 PSU screws were in
-had the front usb pluged into both 2.0 and 3.0 headers causing the 3.0 not to work
 
 Idk who this guy is but needs to stay away from "helping" others build thier first PC~~

You could just reapply the cooler, with the same paste, but the process of removing and putting it back on disturbs the thermal paste so when you put it back on it can create uneven application or air pockets which could affect performance a bit, or barely even noticeable. If you're in a pinch, don't worry about it as long as there is enough paste for good coverage. If its easy enough, you already have the cooler off, just clean off, then reapply the paste for a proper start to finish install.
 
I think your understanding of the paste is wrong. The paste will not "take hold" of the CPU. Its not glue. Poor quality paste over years/decades though tends to harden and cure, and once this happens, then it can have a tendency to really latch onto the CPU. It that case, heating up the heatsink, or turning the system on so the CPU does it for you, will reheat and make the paste loose again. In your case, the only possible force holding it on is suction, and thats likely not holding it to the point where itll take your CPU out with it. Slightly twisting while removing is still proper procedure for a smooth removal though (especially when the paste gets to the point where its hardened and acting like a glue). Applying thermal paste is something new PC builders really get stuck up on and get worried about. Over time you will become much more "casual" with it. Even I was very worried about something like this when I first started learning.

For OP, key words are IN the loop. Rads with Aluminum fins are fine to put inline with a copper CPU block. The water will never contact the fins. Only thing you should be concerned about Rad wise is what the core material is. You want copper cores. Core material is almost always listed in the listing, if not I would avoid or go find the MFG website.

You're going to have to define what a blind date is to the gen z folk .. they'll think you mean a date, combined with the bird box challenge and show up with a blindfold lmao

went over to a mates place to help him with some basic computer maintenance, cable management and rebuilding (see below)
 
my girlfriend came along to hang with my mates girl. She looked at what we were doing and asked "is that what over clocking is?" we both just looked at her for a few seconds before face palming and the showing her later what overclocking is lol
 
 
~~guy that helped my mate build it was a knob as far a i can tell. 
 
-plugged fans direct to PSU via molex
-had every cable of a semi modular psu plugged in and just stuffed in the case
-had a dual channel kit running in single channel.
-Said only the 4 corner mobo screws needed screwed in
-Told buddy that the prongs on the io shield needed to fold into the port to keep it steady
-Only 3 PSU screws were in
-had the front usb pluged into both 2.0 and 3.0 headers causing the 3.0 not to work
 
 Idk who this guy is but needs to stay away from "helping" others build thier first PC~~

jesus, that and gpu prices is why i waited over a year to build my first computer, got my 2x8g 3000 kit for $125, Trident z RGB

IMO users should not be able to post until their profile has their specs listed. Not all blanks filled out, but core components like CPU, Mobo, RAM .. Gpu could be left off as myself and a handful of others use APUs and wouldn't be able to post anymore lol. PSU and case could be left off to .. this would help with the "my computer wont work, help?" posts and the literal next replay is "System Specs?"

Laptop fans are rather small and don't usually move a bunch of air except for what right infront of the intake. In theory, the base with fans helps move more fresh air to the intakes which should lower temps. Some of the reviews are saying they used it as a fix for a broken laptop fan, others saying it reduced noise dramatically.
 
For paste, it could reduce temps if its old paste (more than a few years) .. but if its fresher,  it wouldn't help but for a few degrees. If you do this, make sure and clean out any dust that has been sucked in and possibly clogging the air ducting .. this would help a lot too.

Is the laptop sitting directly on the table? 
-Try propping it up to allow fans more breathing room or try this ($23 USD)
https://www.amazon.com/Havit-HV-F2056-Laptop-Cooler-Cooling/dp/B00NNMB3KS
this, you'd be better off turning your heat down, opening the window or getting a window AC unit (for the summer). Not to mention the atrocious looking set up of a tube going from window to laptop.

Is the laptop sitting directly on the table? 
-Try propping it up to allow fans more breathing room or try this ($23 USD)
https://www.amazon.com/Havit-HV-F2056-Laptop-Cooler-Cooling/dp/B00NNMB3KS
this, you'd be better off turning your heat down, opening the window or getting a window AC unit (for the summer). Not to mention the atrocious looking set up of a tube going from window to laptop.

You're going to have to define what a blind date is to the gen z folk .. they'll think you mean a date, combined with the bird box challenge and show up with a blindfold lmao

nope, see below for black and white wings

 
be aware that this is what the LL series fans look like from the back:

They don't light up. So if your rear and top are exhausting you'll get the rgb goodness but your front intakes will not look like the rest from the inside. You'll kinda see the lighting effects thru the mesh up front.
 
That being said, I will introduce you to the LL series cousins, the HD series. Similar performance, rgb all around, a little less painful on the wallet

You're going to have to define what a blind date is to the gen z folk .. they'll think you mean a date, combined with the bird box challenge and show up with a blindfold lmao

Yeap I messed up a bit and made it confusing. Apparently I am strongly opinionated on that 7740X is no HEDT part.

Combo of my real name and nickname I was given in school .. no one to this day knows where, who or why the name came about .. it came .. it stuck

shoot i was using a core 2 duo up until about 4 months ago ?

open steam on your laptop then on the top left click steam then click backup and restore 
backup the games from you laptop then go to the pc and click steam again and backup and restore but this time restore the games

Beating is probably far fetched but it matches most 240/280 and some 360 AIOs within a degree or two (which is acceptable margin of error) .. watch the jayz2cents video on it where you can literally see his heart break in disbelief while he runs benchmarks lol

Essentially what you did:
 
op:
What tread should i get for the snow?
-mud terrain
-all terrain
 
you:
Tracks are $2.5k and work really really well
........
OP was asking for AIO cooling not air so .. no, no you did not answer or help OP

replacing my phones battery. Went from heavily using it and charging overnight and small boost in the car on the way home, to charging every 2-3 hours. Don't want to pay for a new phone yet.

If your going that far why not go full custom loop it ?You can get a better rad a better more coverage water block and a lot more cooling out it.

Chill man.
 
You'll be fine with just the fans included in the case. If you are truly worried about it you could turn the PSU to draw air from inside the case and act as another exhaust.

closest i've had was hallucinating while being incredibly sleep deprived  (18hr shift on 4 hours of sleep), or sleep paralysis