bololabich

Few notes, from the time I researched this about my previous PSU (sold it for €30 ages ago, didn't change fan, told new owner that it will make noise).
 
The size of fan needs to be same that what the fan there already is. Otherwise connecting will be hard or if new is bigger, it just won't fit. The fan header can be either normal size, or like with mine, mini size. It wasn't even same mini used in GPUs, but different. So only way to connect wires would have been to solder. Too much hassle when I could just keep using and look for deals. Another way would be to run fan header to mobo header or to PSU directly.
 
CFM part is actually not that big issue. As while you do want to get close, it doesn't need to be higher. So if the reason for fan change would be to get lower noise, buying iPPC kinda defeats purpose.

no problem
 
if you have any questions left, feel free to quote/mention me

to quote Corsair's Jonnyguru/Jon Gerow
 

Some PSU run the fan at full blast all the time, some have a small thermal control with a temp sense bolted to a hot part of the PSU and that varies the voltage to the fan. The issue there is that the voltage curve setup in the controller may not work with other fans very well, either run them too fast or run them too slow, or not even run them at all until things are very hot. You'd need to measure the voltage control range of the fan you're removing vs the fan you're installing.

Get new-old stock RX 570 mining, old dell with 3rd gen xeon and dirty cheap ECC RAM, some good 2nd hand PSU, 32GB of ECC RAM (why not... they are basically worthless so it will cost you as much as 2 pizzas...), 500GB SSD and there you have sub-300€ PC comparable to Xbox One X

have to disagree there.
 
disks are often much cheaper a year or so later. bo4 costing a tenner for xbox right now, pc? full price.
 
BUT - you willing to break a few terms and conditions and games cost pennies or even free.
 
moreover, you cant forget the monthly gold subscription.

Startech DAC 

The fiio k3 meets your requirements.

Keep a eye on your temps sometimes flashing another bios can make the card run  hot..
 

If you want something more professional, look into IOI Tech products and see if they have some distributor in Europe: http://www.ioi.com.tw/products/prodcat_app.aspx?AppID=1008&CatID=113
 
There's other companies that do such products .. search with terms like "industrial" or enterprise , and pci-e port switch / splitter , external pci-e ( some make cards you can plug in a pci-e slot and have a scsi type cable that goes to outside box where you may have multiple pci-e slots)
 
IF you want something cheaper that works but it looks cheap and has low bandwidth:
I/O Crest SI-PEX60016 1 to 2 Ports Dual PCI-E x1 Extension Board Switch Multiplier Hub Riser Card with USB 3.0 Cable
has a pci-e switch IC which multiplexes data from 2 x1 slots into the x1 slot.
MintCell PCI-E 1x to 4 USB 3.0 Adapter Card For USB GPU Riser Cards Mining Rigs ETH Ethereum XMR Monero ZEC Zcash
same deal but it uses a switch IC which creates 4 x1 ports ... the card uses usb 3 connectors because the usb 3 cable has the right amount of wires for the pci-e x1
So you get these  PCIE Riser 1X to 16X Graphics Extension for GPU Mining Powered Riser Adapter Card, 60cm USB 3.0 Cable, 4 Solid Capacitors, Two 6PIN and Molex 3 Power Options (VER 009S, 6-Pack)
They're cheaper on eBay - you use usb cable between the 4 port card and each of these x16 boards and power the x16 slot separately through one of the power options (pci-e 6 pin, sata , molex)
 

My current console list: 

Master System (pal 60hz mod)
Master System 2 (currently doing RGB mod)
MegaDrive "HD" PAL (region switch and currently doing RGB amp mod)
MegaDrive "HD" Japanese CIB

Famicom 
NES NTSC
Super Famicom + Super GameBoy
SNES PAL (broken)
Wii (black)

GBA
DS lite
3DS LL 

PS2 slim
PS3 slim
PS Vita fat

Xbox 
Xbox Crystal
x360 Elite
X One

I think that's all

For hooking them all up I use HDMI wherever possible (plus wii and PS2 hdmi adapters, they ain't great but these consoles output garbage signal quality anyway), component for xbox and RGB for all the other consoles. I've also plugged PS3 to my CRT as it can be connected to both RGB and HDMI at the same time (though can only output to 1). The LG TV in the photo is just amazing with RGB. 
I've remade all analog cables myself, using connectors sourced from cheap aliexpress cables and some best quality, oldstock SCART cables I could find, that way each cable costs like 1.5-2€ and is the best possible quality it can be.
Edit: I've also put an old enterprise-grade gigabit switch to connect all the network enabled system to the LAN and internet.

Then it's a disC drive not disK oh well tough luck... I think it should be possible to pair a new dvd drive, the question is how to get the key from the old one. Or you can just give up, modchip it and run games from HDD instead.

I keep a list of all my systems, so this will also include current gen stuff cause I'm just pasting it in:
 
Consoles:
NES (Front Loader, my original my parents bought new right before I was born, replaced connector so games actually work)
NES (Front Loader, slightly newer one in better shape, unmodified, games work better on this one)
SNES (Original Version)
Nintendo 64 (Black with Expansion Pak)
Nintendo GameCube (Later Model, Black)
Nintendo Wii (White, actually only gets used to rip GC and Wii images)
Nintendo Wii U Deluxe
Nintendo Switch (Splatoon 2 Green/Pink Edition)
NES Classic
SNES Classic
SNK Neo Geo Mini
Microsoft XBOX 360 S (250GB, Black)
Sony PlayStation (Original, Gray)
Sony PlayStation 2 (Slim, Black, Main)
Sony PlayStation 2 (Slim, Black, Extra)
Sony PlayStation 3 (Late 160GB Slim, Black, Upgraded to 500GB Samsung 850 EVO SSD, Main for PS3 games)
Sony PlayStation 3 (Early 160GB Slim, Black, Upgraded to 128GB Intel 545 SSD, Secondary for PS1 and PS2 Classics)
Sony PlayStation 4 (500GB, Glacier White Destiny: The Taken King Limited Edition, Upgraded to 500GB Samsung 850 EVO SSD)
Sony PlayStation 4 Pro (1TB, Jet Black, Upgraded to 1TB Crucial MX500 SSD)
Sony PlayStation TV
Sony PlayStation Classic
 
Handhelds:
Nintendo GameBoy (Original, Gray, Failing screen but still playable)
Nintendo GameBoy Advance SP (Silver, broken screen)
Nintendo New 3DS XL (Super NES Edition)
Nintendo New 3DS XL (Black, Damaged Top Screen but still playable)
Sega Game Gear (Non-playable)
Sony PSP-3000 (Black)
Sony PlayStation Vita 2000 (Black)
 
I have both an LCD TV that most the systems with HDMI are hooked up to and a CRT TV that all the pre-HDMI systems and the secondary PS3 are hooked up to (the Taken King PS4 is used for streaming video on a third TV). Of the consoles, only my older NES, Wii, original PlayStation, PlayStation Classic, extra PS2, and Neo Geo Mini are not hooked up (though the Neo Geo mini has a screen and can run stand alone). I have spent a lot of money on switches and cables.
 
I also have the Genesis Mini, TurboGrafx16 Mini, and a limited edition Crystal White Samurai Shodown Neo Geo Mini pre-ordered. I grew up in the 16 to 32/64-bit console eras so I like this stuff a lot.

My current console list: 

Master System (pal 60hz mod)
Master System 2 (currently doing RGB mod)
MegaDrive "HD" PAL (region switch and currently doing RGB amp mod)
MegaDrive "HD" Japanese CIB

Famicom 
NES NTSC
Super Famicom + Super GameBoy
SNES PAL (broken)
Wii (black)

GBA
DS lite
3DS LL 

PS2 slim
PS3 slim
PS Vita fat

Xbox 
Xbox Crystal
x360 Elite
X One

I think that's all

For hooking them all up I use HDMI wherever possible (plus wii and PS2 hdmi adapters, they ain't great but these consoles output garbage signal quality anyway), component for xbox and RGB for all the other consoles. I've also plugged PS3 to my CRT as it can be connected to both RGB and HDMI at the same time (though can only output to 1). The LG TV in the photo is just amazing with RGB. 
I've remade all analog cables myself, using connectors sourced from cheap aliexpress cables and some best quality, oldstock SCART cables I could find, that way each cable costs like 1.5-2€ and is the best possible quality it can be.
Edit: I've also put an old enterprise-grade gigabit switch to connect all the network enabled system to the LAN and internet.

Well how many people out there is going to buy a xeon? IDK how much but i know if its here they wouldn't honestly (only a number of people will know the real value).

well, people like those old 1155 xeons as easy upgrades over i5s. You may be able to get rid of it easy.

Same generation, 200Mhz speed increase, 50% bump in cores.  Short answer is yes, you will see an improvement.  However, it won't be night & day and would be dependant on if the game can take advantage of the extra cores or not.  If no cost, I would probably do it, but wouldn't want to spend a lot of money to do so.

Honestly, finding a properly functioning WiFi adapter for AP use is fairly impossible if you intend to use Windows Server.
 
The Linux side of things has far more options because of community drivers, however your options are still very limited.

You do not use the bridge feature.  You need to install routing services.
 
You would be better off using PFSense if the LTE device will work with it.
 
Another option is to use Windows server 2016 to abstract the driver layer away and use a PFSense VM to do actual routing.

Do you have dolby/dts content already (eg movies) and are just looking to get that to your receiver, or do you need to encode pcm content (eg games) to dolby digital or dts?
 
If it is the former, then probably most things will work. But if you need hardware with an encoder, then the selection is narrowed.

Well, I know the asus xonar dsx has a dts encoder. In the asus panel, you set it to 6 channel/48khz/5.1, tick the spdif output option, and there you can select dts.

The requirements of different versions of windows is about the same, so speed will be about the same.
 
Windows 10 should have the same remote desktop as server 2016 for most features.
 
But server 2016 is lighter weight than win 10 and can have 2 rdp sessions at the same time so might as well run it.

"To stream music from your phone to Windows 10, make sure that your Bluetooth adapter has "A2DP" audio streaming feature; then, set up your Android driver on your computer. To do so, just connect your phone to your computer via USB port, and wait for your Windows 10 computer to finish the driver update.
"
Also from a different fourm:
 
"I got it working. I was looking at the suggestion below and when looking through those settings I realized I never downloaded any software for my Bluetooth device so it was just using a generic drive. I went to Kensingtons website and downloaded the software, installed it, and rebooted. After doing that I was able to connect and play audio through my PC. – JakeIC Aug 16 '17 at 16:52"
 
"
Well Well Well, All the answers below are just a Arrow in the dark.. None of them will work if the Audio receiving service is not enabled in your pc..
For that you need to install Microsoft Plugin for Bluetooth to start audio service.. 
Its called as Windows Mobile Device center.. After downloading and Installing, Connect to your pc with Bluetooth from your phone, soon after connecting a Popup will appear in the Task bar and you will know that ur pc Speakers are ready to play Whatever you choose in phon"

You can just use your card via PayPal and then remove it from PP if you want to. I'd recommend you to buy the game via Swiss MS website or set Xbox'es region to Switzerland or Norway as they usually have lower prices and you can do it without any problems or restrictions. In fact can select any EU member state, Switzerland or Norway.