artuc

[ Moved to Hobby Electronics ]
  
So it could be any generic, throwaway, "imprint this gadget with your logo and give it away as a marketing premium" grade calculator. 
 
That black epoxy blob has all the calculator brains underneath it. The row of contacts at the top is where the LCD used to connect.
 
It's really not useful as anything but a calculator, and with half the parts gone it's completely useless. You can cut the traces between the key matrix and the blob, then tap into them to reuse the keys, but honestly it's not worth the effort to use as a keyboard.
 
That thing is most useful as an exercise in learning how to reverse-engineer a circuit board.

You connect a raw lcd segment display using a zebra strip (elastomeric connector) : https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Elastomeric_connector
 
The other side is just buttons ... you put the rubber membrane on top of the pcb and when you press a button, the conductive material on the button creates a short between the two traces under the button.
 
 

In Australia the same consumer protection applies to prizes as a normal sale.
 
To go to an exteme you could have people trying to pull a dodgy running giveaways/raffles etc. trying to sub out the prize with defective, damaged or refurb things and so on.
 
On the other hand though especially in tech you could have items that are beta or early revision, samples and so on not covered by warranty from the outset. In that case it would suck for a small reviewer to be personally on the hook if they did a low key giveaway of a few items otherwise gathering dust.
 
Becomes a grey area, morally and optics wise I'd argue as to what the giveaway runner gains if anything, what expectations and T&Cs were set and so on.
 
May help to be more clear up top on the LMG side and maybe clarify with some manufacturers If they will warranty it.

Yeah had an old monitor a while ago I actually fixed with a recap at the time but it was very rarely just randomly turning off. Then sometimes wouldn't turn on from standby. Then ded.

You're right, its completed expected as functionally there is no difference between a speaker and a microphone - same way there is no difference between a motor and a dynamo/generator. 
 
The only difference is the amount of voltage you are dealing with so yes it will damage the microphone, hopefully not enough to notice from your short accidental experiment.
 
A microphone is designed to be super sensitive to generate tiny amounts of power from faint vibrations, whereas a speaker is designed to use power to create orders of magnitude more powerful vibrations.  The smaller the speaker, the less power/vibrations are needed, so headphones are closer to a microphone than a desktop speaker.

Depends how bad I'd say and how it's affecting you in game.
 
I have pretty bad upwards drift on one in it's neutral position and a bit of slop. Didn't really notice before, however it's now creating false inputs in a game and causing me to select wrong items and options in menus. 
 
You can see it in the calibrate section of the settings.
 
I am probably going to try a hall effect replacement but they are a bit exxy.
 
It will only get worse though as it wears more so at the very least maybe order it in to allow for shipping and procrastination time.

Yeah really not designed to be repaired a lot of the time or only a few times at best.
 
Even when they are things like plastic clips can just fail with age.
 
Had that when changing a globe on a work car and when trying to unclip a cover the plastic housing just crumbled in my hand.
 
It happens but I was not happy about it.
 
There can be a knack for it, often you look for hidden screws and then try to gently pry open and feel for clips and pressure, ribbon cables you gently pop out the tabs, check for tabs and clips on connectors and just very gently try to navigate your way through.

Bit hard due to the size but you can cut/saw/engrave slots into a screw and use a slotted screwdriver to turn best case or bash against using the screwdriver hit with a hammer to spin it in the right direction at worst case.
 
Can drill the head off entirely and may be able to grip the remaining shaft with pliers or grips. Can also grind flat spots on the shaft, again much harder with such small screws.
 
Screw extractors similar issues, so small so hard to do and not a lot of meat.
 
You could entirely drill it out and may be able to say tap a bigger size in the hole, use a threaded rivnut or a j-nut instead.
 
A fresh bit of the correct size with a good tip or coating could have helped from the outset. Applying downwards pressure and again hard at small sizes with more delicate gear but tapping/hitting lightly downwards as you turn can help.

I mean you don't become a billionaire by being a good dude.
 
Generally the personality trait mix that makes it possible tends heavily to the asshole spectrum.
 
Gotta be willing to screw a lot of people chasing that level of greed.
 
 
With Musk a lot of people seem to fanboy/girl him basically because EVs and SPACESHIPS! and conflate that with the actual person who isn't someone to be admired. Human garbage is putting it nicely imo.
 
 

I mean you don't become a billionaire by being a good dude.
 
Generally the personality trait mix that makes it possible tends heavily to the asshole spectrum.
 
Gotta be willing to screw a lot of people chasing that level of greed.
 
 
With Musk a lot of people seem to fanboy/girl him basically because EVs and SPACESHIPS! and conflate that with the actual person who isn't someone to be admired. Human garbage is putting it nicely imo.
 
 

Just want to add some to the conversation for those interested.
 
 
1) The ultra-long-lasting bulbs I linked earlier have a CRI of 80.
 
2) Philips and others sell high-CRI LED light bulbs if you want that, but most people don't care. You can even get LED lights with a CRI of 99 if you want. Maybe you own an art gallery or something and color rendering is super important. For everyday things however, a CRI of 80 is more than good enough. 
 
 
LED is a very broad category of lights, so someone who for some reason don't like LED lights can cherry-pick the drawbacks of specific models and go "see, LED lights are bad". I feel like that's what is happening here, and some people just want to argue for the sake of arguing.
 
It's also worth noting that the CRI is based on the incandescent light bulb. Or rather, it is based on what an object would look like under black-body radiation (which incandescent lights are). CRI is not really a measurement of color accuracy. It's more a measurement of "how much different does this look compared to incandescent light bulbs". It's not actually measuring how accurate something looks because the reference source (the incandescent light bulb) might be the light that renders things incorrectly.
The whole "CRI of 100 means it's good" is actually not true, and we can easily tell this if we use for example an incandescent light with a color temperature of 2700K. That light, an incandescent light bulb with a color temperature of 2700K, will be really weak at the blue end of the spectrum, meaning seeing the difference between various shades of blue will be difficult. The inverse is true if you had an incandescent light bulb with a color temperature of 6000K or more. You would barely be able to tell the difference between various shades of red, even though the CRI would be 100. In those scenarios, an LED lamp with a CRI of 99 would be equally bad at rendering blue or red, but since it is bad in the same way an incandescent light bulb is, it gets a good score.
 
If the argument is that "daylight is CRI 100 so that's what we should aim for!" then you also have to factor in the color temperature, since CRI is only valid when comparing lights of the same color temperature. So if the idea is that our light bulbs should look like daylight, then we should buy light bulbs with a color temperature of like 6000+ kelvin. But that generally looks awful (in my opinion). Most incandescent light bulbs are in the range of 2700K to 3000K. So not even half of the color temperature of daylight. Yet, we humans tend to prefer the much warmer light from the low Kelvin sources.

Have you got the pinout for your ESP32 ?
 
Are you on the 5V pin or VIN on your ESP. Should be on 5V.
 
Also keep in mind how much you're trying to draw here for anything other than a very small strip.
 
Anything more should be an external power supply (or say a usb c setup of some kind)
 
From some very quick googling ESP32 are 3.3V logic level and I believe your strip is 5V, so could be problems there and may need a shifter.
 
Also could be an underlying issue like something outright faulty.

Gotta start trying to narrow it down, what's shown in device manager ?
 
Is it the audio driver from the motherboard support page ?
 
Your headphones or speakers, are they working with other devices or known good ? 
 
Is it plugged into the correct port ?
 
The onboard ports are usually more reliable to test from as less prone to possible issues with front panel and hookup.

They're stealthy little Germans! xD 

You can also get combs/bus bars for DIN terminals and make up a big block of terminals for your power without having to make little loops.
 
Can also get fuse holders to suit which can be good if needing to isolate an overcurrent fault to one terminal.
 
Another option is power distribution board usually with screw terminals and polyswitch or fuse protection.
 
We use both methods.

Had a quick look, if these are pots what happens is that over time the track starts wearing out, can get crackling and dead spots.
 
Sometimes can be cleaned but often not.
 
Is there a working position towards max they can be left on and the volume adjusted on device?
 
Not sure how viable repair would be.

Typically you would have a dac in the equation as well.  You need to get from a digital information signal to an analog audio signal and that's what a DAC does, digital to analog conversion.  This doesn't mean that you have to buy more equipment it just means that you need something to do the conversion for you.  Typically the headphone jack will do this for you but it is not best practice to use an amplified source to feed an amplifier.  It would be best practice to use a line level source which a desktop would provide.  The problem though is that dac's aren't typically budget oriented with the cheapest I've seen being the $100 price tag with the likes of the Schiit Modi or other brands.  This is what I would recommend for the long term but it would be nice to have a short to medium term solution.
 
First of all you need to figure out why your headphone jack isn't producing any audio at all, even with the headphones plugged directly into your laptop.  This is likely a software configuration issue.  If you know this already or have done this then skip ahead.
 
But first right click the speaker icon next to the clock in the lower right hand corner.  I am on Win11 but Win10 should be very similar.  Click on the sound setting's to open up the next window
 

 
 
This next window you want to ensure that your onboard audio is selected, perhaps give us a screen shot of this screen so we can double check your setting's.  Also ensure that the volume bar is up (never turn this volume bar all the way up when hooked to your amplifier)  But it should say something like realtek or speakers or headphones or something similar.
 

 
If you without a doubt have the headphone jack selected and are producing no audio through the headphone jack then you may have a hardware issue.  However I would use the old audio control panel for a little more fine adjustment.
 
Press win + R  for the run command then type in control panel
 

 
and press ok to open this window
 

 
 
and click on hardware and sound
 

 
Then click on sound to get this window
 

 
Give us a screen shot of this end window and the earlier system sound window
 
 
Let me ask some follow up questions.  How exactly do you have the amplifier connected to the laptop?  Either a picture of the product or a link.
 
Does your laptop produce sound in any capacity now? Even through the built in speakers?
 
What model is your laptop?  Perhaps it has some built in software that is getting in the way.
 

Can you not just wallmount it snug underneath?

An EE should know not to use such a meter on mains.

Bit of a grave dig
 
Exchange for XLM, low minimums, low fees, fairly quick and most CEXs have it.
 
I've used RVN as well but not as common.

They kept 0.0004 BTC, which is exactly their withdrawal/transaction fee for BTC. Since you mention Electrum I figure they refunded you to an external wallet, in which case to me it doesn't sound like they've stolen anything, but that you simply missed a point in their list of fees.
 
This isn't regular banking, so a refund because your transfer "wasn't on time" will also cost money and won't get you back the original amount.

I think Linus has it too good and needs to be punished.
 
Maybe chain him up in the reviewing dungeon and see how many reviews he can do back to back of some just really solid midrange options.

There are minimum thresholds for trading, depositing and withdrawing.
 
Page with information:
https://support.kraken.com/hc/en-us/articles/360001389303-Overview-of-cryptocurrency-minimums