Bugses

For HDR content, you should run at maximum 100% brightness. 
 
This is not the case for SDR content. 
 
Absolutely not, In maximum 100% brightness for HDR (OLED or local dimming display) not means the screen stay always 100%, it adjust to what the content intend to show. If you put below 100% brightness will impact the suppose output. 

It's as apples to apples as possible. The people that don't like the test results are mostly the ones that bought one of the products that do badly and are coping now or trying to justify their purchase.
 
And why sould one not extrapolate from their current results? And TV that has burn-in now will still have burn-in in the future. And the ones that don't have burn-in could still have none.

It was absolutely controlled and test under the exact same condition, they even have the exact methodology clearly explained here
 
How Long Should A TV Last? Our 100 TV Accelerated Longevity And Burn-In Test - RTINGS.com
 
You could argue that it doesn't exactly replicate real life usage, and you would be right. But this is absolutely as apple to apple as you can get when it comes to a display. 
 
It might not burn-in just as fast as in the accelerated longevity test but it will most likely burn-in before WRGB OLED from LG under the same condition. The gap between it and S95B when it comes to burn-in isn't small

Umn.. I am pretty sure everyone who buy OLED, especially premium OLED, run their TV at max. At least in HDR. 
 
The distinction factor between standard OLED and high end OLED, including QD-OLED is the extra brightness. If that isn't your concern why bother going QD-OLED in the first place when there's plethora of midrange OLED available for cheaper.
 
With LCD, you may not run it at max in SDR but HDR will probably also get max out as well. You've paid for that brightness in a HDR LCD TV and monitor, and it's actually needed to maintain HDR image quality. And they would consume even more power than OLED in that configuration (LCD HDR TV can go more than 200w when displaying 1000+ nits, OLED tend to be around 70-120w) 

There's no special issue with white keyboard ... the case and plate won't get that dirty ... the keycaps will depend of what you are doing while using it ... I would not eat chocolate while gaming ... but then again you can just remove the keycaps and wash them.  I used retro look white and grey keycaps set for a while and they are still exactly the same as when I bought them.  I'm also using a white g305 mouse and after one year it's still in pristine condition, no spots or stain at all.  Also the white is still as white as when I bought them, no yellow at all. 

I'm building it to last 3-4 years, so my budget would be around $2500. It' gonna be a 3080 and probably a 10600/10700K.

I don't know what cases costs today to be honest. Can a $200 max do it?

IIRC in GamerNexus' case reviews the more open, airflow optimized cases tend to perform favorably against more closed, silence optimized cases when looking at cooling performance at a normalized noise level.
 
This is because the less restrictive case allows you to spin your fans slower to achieve the same level of cooling.

Yes it's an "open case" with the traditional "top, front, bottom and rear" being completely open, so if using a case such as that, appropriate fans should be chosen for the best acoustic performance. 
 
Fans are the most important element to silence as they are the leading contributor to it. Unless you plan on having lots of spinning hard drives or water pumps, your best bet for a quieter system is better quieter fans with a custom fan curve.

P500A could be a good choice with that buget.

You might want to wait until October 8th when new Ryzen CPUs are announced.

My personal choice would be the fractal design meshify C

Yes, you're better off with nvidia gpu if you have gsync

That tends to be hit and miss, depending on the router.  I'd certainly try it on automatic first and see if it performs okay.

Hi LTT,
I don't know much about networks, so I thought I would ask here. I just bought a TP-Link C5400 and when I set it up, I noticed that it got two 5Ghz bands. Why is that? Should I disable one of them?

Like I said if you like the fit of the PC 37x.  But just fair warning they will be clampy for the first couple of days but will get better with more use

Yes they are nice upgrade over those 2 if you like the way the pc37x fit you will like the HD 58x and 6xx. If you are gaming I would recommend to grab the 58x. It's better than the 6xx for gaming

Rev. B (5100 in model number) comes with AM4 compatible mounting kit.

If it has, I haven't been able to find it.

Super, thanks for the help

the 702 are more neutral, kinda just the k612 and the 712 has a bit more bass.

I'm just gonna go ahead and tag @Dackzy since he's also in Denmark. He'll be able to give you some better recommendations for what's available in your area...

You don't think I'll benefit from more ram or a better cpu? 

I've seen a stock GTX 1060 go down into the 50s in BF1 so no, it's probably not adequate enough. A i7 6700K paired with a GTX 1070 should be pushing it past that 100FPS threshold.
 
You want a Z170 motherboard... the ASUS Z170-A is a decent option.

a 1060 will struggle with a game as intense as Battlefield 1. a 1070 is definitely the way to go for 144fps ultra settings. however, neither a 6700K nor a 1070 is budgetlol. for a full build with those two, expect to spend over $1000