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e22big

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  1. Specwise, they are all the same (typically), none of them have anything close to true black (contrast and peak brightness tends to be the only differentiation betwen models - but even so the differences are very small) Manufactuerer's warranty, size, price, feature and asthetic tends to be the the criteria I used when looking for a new monitor. Adaptive Sync tends not to be made equal among the manufacturers so that'll be the first thing that I will take a look. Other than that something with decent HDR (HDR600 or close to) would be a plus, particularly if you don't have a TV to o
  2. not sure if you could do that, as it turn out, ABL adjustment on CX OLED wasn't obvious at all, even trying to leave it off wasn't that easy - guess you will have to experiment and see if any works
  3. guess I am the minority then, I actually prefer my monitor at at least 300 nit, perferably 350 although I tried to tone it down to 200 nit recently to save some electric bill
  4. When reviewing a monitor or TV, I often see people calibrate it to 200 nit for reference when testing other areas of their performance (contrast, power consumption etc.) I wonder why this is the case though? Why exactly 200 nits and why not more or less? It doesn't sond like a standard brightness that most people use (or do they?)
  5. that is indeed wierd, it definitely come with 4k 144hz right out of the box for me
  6. I think if you just use it for storage and absolutely nothing else, any HDD can last for a very long time. All of my HDD are a relic from last buildt - and my latest buildt is almost 7 years ago, they should be altogether age well over 10 years at this point. All of them are still working fine without any issue (WD Green and something else, they weren't even a premium HDD
  7. sorry can't help with that I don't have any other device I can plug-in to this monitor right now, keybaord and mouse should work, I tried plug in my G903 mouse USB on it and it works without any issue
  8. A lot of LCD monitor can get brighter than OLED, the FV43U I am using defintely can but also stuff like ROG PG43UQ, XG43UQ, Acer CG437K, BM270 I could go on. You can get a relatively decent HDR1000 monitor for 1000-1500 buck (theoratically anyway)
  9. I am currently using it - it's good, detail in the dark is probably not as good as OLED (honestly can't tell the the different though) but it can do a lot better HDR spark (it's quite a bit brighter, can get to 1000 nit easily) and produce a life-like ligthing. It has a few quirks bot overall well worth the price tag, I am personally more happy with it than the CX OLED (can be a pain to deal with sometime) even if I have to sacrificise some image quality
  10. Thanks, I've actually saw these video before but it's actually what got me wonder about the topic. But then I saw his OLED vs QLED comparison and I think I understand the differences now
  11. For creative professional, I would assume that's because they tend not to be working alone or sitting right at the center of the screen all the time. Viewing angle in some VA can be pretty bad in that it just shift the colour a little as you move your head or move around while talking to other people over your phone - not enough to be easily noticeable but definitely seen when making a side by side comparison (which can be a problem when you artwork is going to be reivewed by a many people) But from my experience so far, most creative people I've interacted (outside of the tech ind
  12. it's probably not, one hand hand halo effect is very rare if any at all (which is a characteristic of FALD or better locally lit panel) but on the other hand the dimming mechanism is very edge-like (full screen dimming or very large dimming zone) My guess is that it's a typical edge-lit with 8 zones or so local dimming, it seem to share a lot of characteristic with Asus PG43UQ (same performance, same power draw) and I would assume that they use the same local dimming system to save cost *edit after doing some test, I am still not sure how many zones it has (probably aro
  13. See for yourself, this is the edge-lit monitor I recently got, did you see any halo? My experience with FALD is the same as this, if there's any I haven't seen it.
  14. ABL - Auto-Brightness Limter, you can read more about it here. It's fine if you like its image right out of the box (and it's pretty good right out of the box) but if you want to adjust anything, it's a pain to get the right outcome. If you mainly use it as a gaming monitor then it should be fine, but just as other people pointed out - be mindful of your distance to the monitor, 48 inch is huge and sitting too close to it can make it uncomfortable to use. In general, it
  15. Input lag is next to none existence in LG CX on paper, and I personally don't experience any of those when using it either. Howeve, other than the issue that other people mentioned you should be aware that the CX OLED has terrible brightness level in SDR. It can get a decent brightness here and there but for the most part, you can barely drive it above 300 nit (you can get a bit more but it can be a lot of pain, changing OLED TV brightness isn't just a matter of sliding the bar to max, you will have to know the exact mode and ABL setting in order to get the most out of its brightn
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