Oswin

What's your hand size and grip style. Also, what are you primarily using the mouse for?

The G Pro is nothing like the G703/403. 
It's preference mostly, a lot of people use the G703/403 and have no issues with it.
 
@AirBourne The G Pro Wireless is a bit more expensive usually, but you can find it for a bit less now that the G Pro X Superlight was released. It's much closer to the Steelseries Sensei in terms of shape and size than any of the ones you listed.

I don't get what you're asking here so I'll just address your claims. For reference, I have used a G403 for the last 4 years now.
No, and all the people I see complaining about double clicking are people who abuse the fuck out of their mice so it's expected they'll develop hardware problems. I've used my G403 daily for several years now and have absolutely no problems because I don't mash my buttons like an idiot.
No, read above, same concept imo.
No, because I turn it off. At least that is fairly simple, so I'd assume changing colour and shit is also easy.
Assuming you mean disconnects, I have not had a single latency problem, much less a random disconnect, in the 4 years I've owned this mouse. Modern wireless tech is very, very good. You won't have problems.
No, my G403 works great as a wired mouse when plugged in, but as we aren't living in the stone ages anymore I use it wireless all the time (except for when I charge it overnight once a week).
Not sure what good there is to having a wired mouse. Latency is not a problem, some wireless mice even perform better than wired ones, and you have to charge it once a week at most. Really not a big deal, I'd take those disadvantages over being dragged down by a cable in a heartbeat.

Welcome to the forum!
The G102 is great, it's basically a cheaper G Pro Hero. No reason to upgrade unless you don't like the shape IMO.
 
 As said in this thread, a 144+Hz monitor will make a huge difference, so you should definitely go with that.
Quite frankly, DPI means nothing, especially if we are talking about FPS gaming. For FPSs your DPI should really be in the 400-2400 range, more than that is generally bad.
 
-Moved to peripherals-

Yes.
The GDDR version of your videocard is independent from the DDR version of your motherboard. As long as you:
- Your motherboard has a free PCIE slot
- Your case has the room for the videocard
- Your PSU is adequate for the card (has the right connectors)
you can install the videocard.

I'd recommend taking a look at the Razer Basilisk Ultimate. It costs a bit more than the Hyperspeed, but it uses optical switches, which are more durable than mechanical switches and a bit quieter too. In general though, I'd recommend any of the Logitech and Razer wireless mice, you really can't go wrong with any of them.

Tis looks great! 
Grats on ze new Keeb.   

No u.
 
Nice build, I would never be able to use that  

Introduction
Hey there! Welcome to ‘Chew’s keeb build log, please enjoy your stay! 😁
 
The goal here is perfection -- assembling the best keeb that'll satisfy my Petty and Stupidly Specific Desires™ (PASSD).
 
'Chew's Keeb Desires
Green: Nonnegotiable Preferences ("Need"). | Blue: Preferred Preferences ("Want").
Size, Layout: TKL, ANSI. Case: Metallic Construction. High-Profile, Angled. Matte Black. Plate: Black/Chrome. Standard Bottom Row (6.25U Spacebar). Tsangan Bottom Row (7U Spacebar). PCB: Hotswap. Standard Bottom Row (6.25U Spacebar). Tsangan Bottom Row (7U Spacebar). Switches: Linear. Black (Color). Stabilizers: Black (Color). Keycaps: Blank. Matte Black. Acoustics: Thock Thock Thock!  
Custom TKLs are surprisingly uncommon outside of Group Buys (er, AFAIK?). I’m aware of the Phantom PCB + Tex/Filco Aluminum Case TKL custom build, but: one, that build wouldn’t pass my PASSDs, and two, I’m very uninterested in super-generic configs built from ‘there was no other option’ reasons. Keep in mind that I already have a semi-custom -- a The GMMK TKL -- and while I do love me muh keebs (#KeebWeebClub!), having a board that has the same features or that looks the same as my existing one isn’t too exciting. 🤔
 
So!
 
For suffering #KeebWeebs in the TKL camp, we wait... and wait... and wait... until a limited run production or a Group Buy opens up.
AND THEN WE FLING MONEY AT THE PROBLEM AT MACH SPEED AND LAUGH MANIACALLY AND CRY ABOUT IT LATER.
 
Mode Designs happened to be holding a Group Buy for their Eighty (Pre-Order), and while one that did interest me at first, I later came across their First Edition Eighty. Then self-control went POOF! Aaand... Wallet also went POOF!, lol.
 
 
Current Parts List
Component Selection Price PCB Mode Designs Eighty Hotswap PCB (MODE80H PCB v1.1) $650.00 Case Mode Designs First Edition Eighty Case (Dark)   Mounting Plate Mode Designs Anodized Aluminum Mounting Plate   Switches Modded Silent L7 (TS-150g) Switches
(Durock L7 Switches - Housings)
(Gazzew/Outemu Silent Linear Stems)
(Flashquark Two Stage Long Springs (150g))
(Krytox 205 G0)
(Deskeys Switch Films)
 
Modded Ink Black (150g) Switches
(Gateron Ink Black Switches - Stems + Housings)
(24K Gold-Plated SPRiT Springs (150g))
(Krytox 205 G0)
(Deskeys Switch Films)
 
Modded BOX Heavy Black Switches
(Kailh BOX Black Switches - Stems + Top Housings)
(Hako Royal Clear Switches - Bottom Housings)
(Kailh BOX Ancient Gray Switches - Springs)
$60.45 + $23.25 + $9.30
$70.13 + $10.20 + $6.00
$30.00 + $53.00 + $34.95
Stabilizers Durock Screw-In Stabilizers (V1) $17.00 Keycaps EnjoyPBT Blank Black PBT OEM-Profile Keycaps
/dev/tty MT3-Profile Keycaps (Bleached)
$39.00
$55.00
Cable Custom Double Sleeve Cable w/GX16 Aviator Connectors
Braided USB Type-C to USB Type-A Cable
$69.00         Grand Total $1127.28   (Shipping and Taxes Excluded)    
Parts Update History
 
 
Assembly
Used the resources below, 'cos 'Chew is still a #KeebNewb:
Using Screw-In Stabilizers from Keyboard University. Mode Eighty Assembly Guide from Mode Designs.  
Stabilizer Assembly
10 × Stabilizer Housings 10 × Stabilizer Stems 4 × 2U Stabilizer Wires 1 × 6.25U Stabilizer Wire  

Durock Screw-In Stabilizers (V1)
Specifically picked these 'cos black.
Drink every time I mention black, kek. 🍻
 

Stabilizer Stem + Stabilizer Housing
Left: "Hook-Side." Right: "Screw Hole-Side."
 

Stabilizer Housing + Stabilizer Stem
Stem fits in one-way into the housing, thanks to the protrusion/notch-thingy in the top-right corner of the inner housing and the stem's bottom.
 

Stabilizer Housing + Stabilizer Wire
Wire slides into the bottom opening of the stem, and locks into the housing with a distinct click. Repeat the slide-and-click with wire's other end.
 

Durock Screw-In Stabilizers (V1) Assembled!
Yoooooo they look really pog in person?! 
 
Keyboard Assembly
1 × Eighty Top Case 1 × Eighty Bottom Case/Weight 1 × Eighty PCB (MODE80H PCB v1.1) 1 × USB Type-C Daughterboard 1 × Daughterboard Cable 1 × USB Type-C Cable 1 × Middle Gasket 1 × Bottom Gasket 4 x 2U Stabilizers 1 × 6.25U Stabilizer 87 × MX-Style Switches 87 × MX-Stem Keycaps  

First Edition Eighty (Dark) - Unboxed!
It's. All. Black!
[GIDDY NOISES!]
 

First Edition Eighty - Case Bottom
Pls notice three things:
One, the entire bottom of the case is an absolutely gorgeous tinted mirrored finish.
Two, the sheer weight of the unassembled keeb is enough to squishy the lime plushie.
Three, Danbo be cute.
 
Disassembly
Take things apart to put things together!
 

First Edition Eighty - Bottom Case Removal
Starting with the three internal hex screws -- that's right, only three well-placed fasteners hold the entire hefty keeb together! 💪
I seriously love design/architecture that's both minimalist and efficient.
 

First Edition Eighty - Bottom Case Removal
~Spinny spinny spinny~
 

First Edition Eighty - Bottom Case Removal
Once the three screws are loose, the bottom case/weight raises itself up of its own accord. 
 

First Edition Eighty - Bottom Case Removed
Top: Bottom Case/Weight (Other Side). Bottom: PCB Sandwich.
Eighty #391. There be only one First Edition Eighty keeb with that engraving, and it be mine!
 

Eighty #391 - PCB (Bottom)
Black be beauuutiful!
 

Eighty #391 - Top Case + Bottom Case/Weight + PCB Sandwich
The #391 engraving is on both parts of the case!
 

Eighty #391 - PCB Sandwich
Aluminum Mounting Plate + Middle Gasket + PCB.
Bottom gasket be off-screen, chilling on my unused GMMK, kek.
 

Eighty #391 - MODE80H PCB v1.1
👀
 
Assembly
...Reverse disassembly? 🤔
 

Eighty #391 - USB Type-C Daughterboard
Plug JST connector thingy into USB Type-C potato chip, then stick the potato chip into the bottom case’s convenient cubby hole with the toiny hex tool.
 

Eighty #391 - USB Type-C Daughterboard
~Mooore spinny spinny spinny~
 

Eighty #391 - PCB Sandwich
Silly me didn’t realize that the PCB sandwich was held together by the eight chrome screws at first. Luckily I noticed before I ripped anything, ahahaha... 
Gotta remove the PCB from the mounting plate and gasket sandwich to install the stabilizers.
 

Eighty #391 - PCB + Screw-In Stabilizers
Stabilizers aligned with the holes they go into.
Dooon’t worry about the Enter key stabilizer, I... er... definitely placed it the wrong way on purpose... definitely... hahaha... I’m a #KeebNewb can you tell.
 

Eighty #391 - Screw-In Stabilizers Installation
 The stabilizer’s plastic hook-side goes into the bicc hole, and the screw hole-side goes into the smol hole. Slide the hook-side in at an angle, then push down gently-but-firmly down on the screw hole-side. Sorta like installing M.2 SSDs?
 

Eighty #391 - Screw-In Stabilizers Installation
It’s done right when the stabilizer’s housings lie flush along the PCB.
The hook-side definitely does not fit in the smol hole. I... er... definitely didn’t spend five minutes figuring that out. 
 

Eighty #391 - Screw-In Stabilizers Installation
Finish securing the stabilizers into the PCB by screwing them in from the bottom.
Heh.
 

Eighty #391 - Screw-In Stabilizers Installed
So. Freaking. Clean.
 

Eighty #391 - Mounting Plate + Switches
Putting a couple’a switches in first to double-check alignment during the PCB sandwich assembly (reassembly?).
Also pls notice the Modded Kailh BOX Black switches’ black housing, TY TY.
 

Eighty #391 - Mounting Plate + Switches + Middle Gasket
...TBH, ’Chew didn’t know what a gasket looked like until yesterday.
I always imagined it was a more mechanical part, like a piston, lol.
 

Eighty #391 - PCB Sandwich + Alignment Switches
Pls ignore the bottom switch in the Right Ctrl key position, it’s in the incorrect position for standard bottom row layout, lololol.
 

Eighty #391 - PCB Sandwich + Modded Kailh BOX Black Switches
Yuuusss!
The convenience of hotswap is too good! But. Muh fingers. They hurt. 😂
 

Eighty #391 - Top Case + Bottom Case/Weight + USB Type-C Daughterboard + PCB Switch Sandwich
 Ooooh! It's coming together!
 

Eighty #391 - Top Case + PCB Sandwich + Bottom Gasket Reassembly
Yum. 🥪😋
 

Eighty #391 - Daughterboard-to-PCB Connection
A lil’ bit finnicky, but easy enough. But mebbe don’t do it with gloves on, kek.
 

Eighty #391 - Bottom Case/Weight Reassembly
~The final spinny spinny spinny~
Seriously. Three screws. Damn, I love it so much, hrrrnnng...!
 

Eighty #391 + Modded Kailh BOX Black Switches
Hmmm... Can’t help but think it’d look better with a certain set of switches with smokey-black housings.
 

Eighty #391 + Blank Black Keycaps - All Assembled!
The black of the case and the black of the keycaps do look a little bit off, especially under this yellow-ish lighting and from a top-down angle.
 

Eighty #391
Danbo: ...?
Nyanbo: 🎶
 

Current Desk Setup!
Hecc ye.
 
 
Sound Samples
 
 
Legacy Sound Samples
Sound samples recorded with the phone. Expect terrible audio quality. 
 
Current-ish Sound Samples
Sound samples recorded with the Antlion Mod Mic. Expect less-terrible audio quality. 
 
 
Closing Comments
 'CHEW IS ECSTATIC! 
 
The Mode Eighty is more than just a typing tool or some brag-worthy luxury item for me. I mean, I do enjoy typing very very much, and I admit I like to feed my materialism/pride sometimes. But getting hands-on building experience is also a valuable learning experience, and fresh, interesting discoveries give me a lotta life. 😁 It's one thing to read up on something from secondhand sources, it's another feeling entirely to actually do it in person. And fumbling around unexpected mishaps is also quite humbling, hehe.
 
I've gushed about the Eighty in the pics above, and while I do think it is a great keeb (in my biased opinon, kek), I did find some gripes with it:
Build Finish: Overall, the keyboard kit is a thoughtfully designed, hefty piece of work, and very sturdily built. The build quality is good. However, for $650, "good" doesn't quite meet my expectations. I expected phenomenal, and I have to admit, I am a little bit let down. Most noticeable are the small dings and machining marks on the Bottom Case/Weight. The imperfections are inconsequential to the board's performance and top-down aesthetics, but knowing that they exist eh... it's kinda disappointing. Switch Aesthetics: To me, every part of this keyboard matters. That includes parts that I don't see on a daily basis, like the Kailh BOX Black's clear top housing, which sticks out like a sore thumb from keyboard's all-black theme. Switch Weight: Ahhh... Shoot. Now that I've gotten spoiled off on the Kailh BOX Ancient Grays, the Kailh BOX Black's 60g(?) springs feel waaay too light for my fingers. 😫 Resistance! I want more resistance! Also, I want more thock. I'm thinking heavier springs might deepen the thock sound? At least, it did (or I think it did) when I replaced the BOX Blacks with the BOX Ancient Grays on my The GMMK TKL. 🤔 Braided Cable: Having a limpy length of cable wiggling around on my precious desk space kiiinda disturbs the premium-y aesthetics of the keyboard. Been eyeing some matte black cables for a while, just have to confirm some measurements. 👀  
Sooo now there's a bunch of new stuff I wanna get, right after I've already bought new stuff. 😆
 
...
I tried to write "'Chew spends in moderation" just now, but that is very not true. 
'Chew does try to be financially responsible and only spends as much as she feels she can handle, m'kaaay.
🍻 Drink responsibly! Spend responsibly! 
 
And thank you very much for reading! 
...It's 2 AM why am I still awake gonna go faint now byeee.

Depends on your grip style and hand size. If they are all the same price, I'd get either the Viper or the G Pro though. The Model O is good, but shape wise is almost identical to the Viper which has optical switches, the dock and no holes, so I'd just go with the Viper. The Superlight isn't worth paying 2x more than the G Pro Wireless tbh, I'd only consider it if you are really serious about gaming (or if you really want the lowest weight or the white color). 

If you want to completely avoid double clicking issues, look for mice with optical switches. The Razer Viper, Deathadder v2 (and their more expensive wireless versions) and Basilisk v2 have optical switches and the newly released Roccat Burst Pro. Alternatively, you can get a Glorious Model O/D and increase the debounce delay if it ever starts double clicking. 
 
I think the Deathadder v2 or the Basilisk v2 might be the 2 best options based on your hand size and grip preferences (Deathadder v2 is on the larger side though). The Viper is quite good for claw, but could be quite uncomfortable for palm grip. The Burst Pro is really good for claw, but maybe too small for palm. If you can try any of these mice in a store, I'd recommend doing so.

if really concerned about double clicking happening, razer is the only manufacturer currently with optical mouse switches.

I think you're overreacting to a problem that isn't nearly as widespread as you think.

Better is something very subjective, these 2 mice are completely different. The G502 is a non-symmetrical and relatively big mouse with more of a focus on general usage with all the buttons and the infinite scroll wheel. The Model O is a symmetrical and low profile mouse with more of a competitive/fps focus. I'd say a closer comparison is the G Pro Wireless and the Model O Wireless.
 
If you are talking about the wireless performance, then I'd have to go with the G502 purely because of how "battle tested" logitech wireless has been, with many esports pros using logitech wireless in big lans with 0 issues. The wireless performance of the Model O might be equally good, but we can't know for sure until more people have gotten their hands on it, same goes for QC. Logitech does get a lot of flak for double clicking, but in all honesty it's not as big of a deal as some people make it out to be and logitech's customer support is excellent and will usually provide you with a replacement quickly.
 
Just a quick note, 1)Powerplay is kind of a waste of money and overpriced unless you really want wireless charging. 2) If you are looking for the best mouse possible and don't mind waiting a bit, the G Pro X Superlight goes on sale in December and it's definitely worth taking a look at.

This is my first written review in this forum! Feedbacks are appreciated, will try and keep this updated in the future
 
Contents:
First Impressions Specs What You Get Inside the Box Shape & Weight  Sensor RGB & Buttons! Connectivity & Battery Life Software Conclusion  
1. First Impressions
     I have owned several mice from Logitech, safe to say, this is the most expensive mouse i have ever used. The G502 is regarded to be one of the most successful gaming mouse to be produced, but the G502 Lightspeed is my first G502. At first glance the G502 lightspeed looks like any other G502, with the obvious difference of not having a cable. Unboxing the G502 to me, feels like unboxing a flagship smartphone, premium, with a feeling of "i know i spent a lot on this thing". I bought this mouse for roughly $140 US which is rather cheap considering how hard it is to get and is currently selling for $158 right now (before shipping) in my country. The G502 Lightspeed isn't officially released in Indonesia so i got mine imported from Logitech HK, which took 17 days to be delivered. To be honest i don't know exactly where this mouse sits in the "gaming mice" family, is it an FPS mouse? is it an MMO mouse?, but i'd say it can do a little bit of everything, even for productivity. 
 
 
2. Specs
 
 
3. What You Get Inside the Box
G502 Lightspeed Lightpspeed  wireless receiver Receiver extension adapter Charging/data cable Accessory box 4x 2g Weights 2x 4g Weights  
4. Shape & Weight
    The G502 Lightspeed feels just like any other G502 but without having a cable to drag around. My hand is 18 cm (L) and 10 cm (W) i use claw/fingertip grip for when i am gaming and palm whenever i am not gaming. This mouse is better suited for people with bigger hands and of course right handed users, though if you have smaller hands you can still palm it (though there are better options than this). My thumb rest nicely at the rather small thumb rest and my pinky barely touches the mousepad whenever i decide to palm it. I would also recommend always using the 1-2-2 (1 finger on the left-2 at the top-2 at the right) grip, a 1-3-1 grip just feels odd to me since the right side of the mouse is rather big and i never felt comfortable lifting it considering how heavy it is.
     The G502 Lightspeed is a heavy mouse, but Logitech had done a good job to keep it lighter than its wired counterpart using techniques that they used in the G Pro Wireless. This mouse weighs about 114 grams (which is 7 grams lighter than the wired version). i would advise against using the weights, mainly because i play FPS and would like to keep the mouse lighter, but i understand some will add them because they like a bit more weight in the mouse.
 
 
5. Sensor
    The G502, uses the HERO sensor, the latest and greatest from Logitech. For the most part i use this mouse to play cs:go, and never had any problems with it. I mainly play as an AWPer (to those who dont play cs, its a sniper role) and it tracks every flick with great precision and is always consistent and it never spins out, safe to say it has 0 mouse acceleration (which is what i'd expect from a top sensor). I mainly play at 800 DPI and never change it. Lift of distance is also not an issue, as it is under a dvd. The surprising thing that i found out that this mouse also tracks on glass, though i'd rather not use it on a glass surface. 
 
 
6. RGB & Buttons!
     The Mouse has 2, and only 2 lighting zones, nothing spectacular but it gets the job done. I personally set it to 15% brightness and leave only the logo to be illuminated to have the nice blend of still having rgb and good battery life.
     The G502 has a total of 11 programmable buttons, the sniper button is a bit too far ahead and for the most part i don't use it, changing DPI mid game isn't something it should do, thats the job of the buttons beside the left click, so i assigned it to do something else (its the only button i assigned to do a different thing other than what it was intended to do). the infinite scroll wheel is nice (especially when you need to scroll through a long document/website) , while also having the ability to scroll from left to right. I have heard multiple stories from people having double clicking issues on newer Logitech mice, though it is currently non existent on my G502, only happened to me once on a 4 year old secondhand G602 that i bought from a friend.
 
 
7. Connectivity & Battery Life
    The G502 uses the Logitech Lightspeed technology, its basically indistinguishable from wired mice, and yes, its that good and there's not much to say about it. If for some reason you still like it wired then you can still use the included cable (though that defeats the purpose of the actual product, you might as well get the wired version for way cheaper). 
    The battery on this mouse is good, but not great. I use it for 8-10 hours a day daily and have to charge it once every 2 weeks. The mouse charges really fast using a USB 2.0 connection, haven't tested how long it exactly took to charge but it goes from 10-100% in an hour or less. You can still game while charging, though keep in mind that cable drag is now present.
 
 
8. Software
    The G502 Lightspeed uses the Ghub software, and it sucks, it's probably the worst part about this product. I have had to reinstall the software 3 times over the last couple of months due to it being stuck on the loading page, or not recognizing my mouse at all. The good thing is that this mouse does have on board memory, so you can just save it on the mouse and uninstall the software. On the bright side, the software does look promising but it needs a lot of love to be completely polished.
 
 
9. Conclusion
    In conclusion, to me the G502 Lightspeed is just another G502, nothing groundbreaking. Would i recommend it for competitive FPS? absolutely not, there are a lot of better and cheaper options out there (like say the G305, the Glorious Model D, etc.). But would i recommend it for someone who likes a heavy mouse and likes to game casually? yes, 100% it ticks all the boxes to be a great heavy mouse without actually being a brick. and it is still a gaming mouse with great specs. To close things off the mouse has a top of the line sensor, good battery life, RGB, wireless, infinite scroll wheel, buttons! lots of them, and a shape that has been liked by so many.
     Overall i would rate this mouse an 8/10.
 
 

I'm seriously considering a Logitech MX Vertical at the moment, I don't think I need a gaming version of it though.

Correct, there is very little difference between any 2 modern sensors. 

The 3389 is the best sensor pixart makes, so it is obviously better than the 3988 which is more of a midrange sensor AFAIK. That said, most sensors nowadays are really good, so I doubt you would be able to notice the difference, things like shape/weight/click latency are far more important than sensors nowadays.

If you're just looking for a prebuilt, Ducky's Shine 7 Gunmetal seems to tick all your boxes. It does feature volume control and a calculator key, but you could reprogram them to whatever you want or just ignore them.
 
I've been personally using one for a few months now, also with MX Browns. In fact, I've got a review of it up on the forum:
Overall, my opinion of it hasn't changed a whole lot, though I will mention something regarding the stabilisers.
Out of the box, the backspace key sounded horrible and the spacebar was quite loud (even more so with the stylised ABS one). Following this video though I did manage to get them to sound a tad better, albeit still not particularly great. A friend of mine also has a similar "problem" with the spacebar, but not the backspace, so there could very well just be something isolated to my particular unit.
 
Also, I think saying I don't really like the switches wouldn't really hold much value, since it's a matter of personal preference and you've mentioned that you do like them, but keep in mind that if you're looking for something more tactile, there are definitely much superior options (Zealios v2 for example are, from what I've seen, quite popular and very well regarded).
 
Going with something like a hotswap GMMK would allow you to pick any switches under the sun (and swap them out for something else whenever, since it's a hotswap board), then you throw your own preferred keycaps of choice and you're done. Just something to consider.

A mouse specifically for osu!
 
Extremely light, ambidextrous of course, and with a shape that in theory will be more comfortable considering how I grip the mouse than the "humpback" shape of my G203 Prodigy.
 
Something I didn't need, but really wanted.
 
Update:
I finally got the drivers to work and I'm a very happy camper. It's so light, it's much more comfortable because my grip was hitting against my old G203's humpback, and it feels quite precise.
 
I want to thank @Oswin for helping me choose it.

didnt see the subforum at first, are you looking for an aio or a regular air cooler?
 
also dont recall any good rgb options if you are looking for performance at a low price

the scythe fuma 2 is a pretty good option for the price
PCPartPicker Part List Type Item Price CPU Cooler Scythe FUMA 2 51.17 CFM CPU Cooler $59.99 @ Amazon   Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts     Total $59.99   Generated by PCPartPicker 2020-10-19 13:19 EDT-0400    

here is somewhat a decent option 
PCPartPicker Part List Type Item Price CPU Cooler Corsair iCUE H100i RGB PRO XT 75 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler $119.99 @ Newegg   Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts     Total $119.99   Generated by PCPartPicker 2020-10-19 13:48 EDT-0400  
 

I personally would prefer to stick with the air cooler as it is a pretty decent option, considering the price. it can cool an overclocked 10980xe if you so need (albeit a bit hot), here is how it stacks up compared to other coolers:
 

pretty sure there's a cutout at the back of the motherboard, you should be able to install it without removing the motherboard.