suchamoneypit

If it's designed for home theater applications, that would typically mean it's shielded. That would mean it should be OK. It's only when the stuff is unshielded when you run into problems. Speakers designed to be around other electronics such as PC and Home Theater speakers are shielded to prevent any adverse effects on surrounding equipment.
 
Stuff like car speakers, on the other hand, typically are NOT shielded. I learned this the hard way. I tried to hook up a pair of 6 1/2" Sony Xplod speakers to a CRT TV like 12 years ago and kinda borked the TV. Took a lot of fiddling with other magnets to restore that TV back to usable condition.
 
Of course, it's nothing on the scale of that monster, but my Polk PSW10, multiple Klipsch bookshelf speakers, and Pioneer VSX-932 receiver are all in close proximity to my TV and HTPC and nothing is affected. I had spare hard drives stacked on top of the PSW10 for while and none of them were damaged. I mean, Paul of Paul's Hardware had his HTPC with no case sitting on top of his subwoofer without issue.
 
So, again, as long as it's shielded, it should be good.

Yeah, on old CRTs, magnets, even small ones, could distort the colors and image shape. You can also use a magnet to fix magnetic damage. CRTs have a built in degausser that's supposed to fix minor deviations when you first power it on each time but sometimes the damage can be more than what the degausser can handle. You can really only do so much though. While I did get that TV fixed for the most part, it is still a little wonky. It has a spot just above and a little right of the center that has some color distortion (like white is kinda brownish) and the top and bottom, the image bends in some, and it can be more or less depending on what's actually being displayed.

Yeah. Something like a fridge magnet probably won't do anything at all to a modern LCD. It could cause some non-permanent distortion on a CRT or possibly some minor lasting distortion that the degausser would fix next time the screen is turned on. A more powerful magnet, like that of a relatively large, unshielded speaker, I don't know. I think it would still be more or less unfazed, but after my learning experience with the car speakers, I've avoided having unshielded magnets near any of my electronics.

No, but you should get a 2x8 gb kit of ram though, it just might help compatibility. Unless the 1x8GB is a really good deal.
 

Maybe try learning how to code and create games.  Also learning how to fiddle with electronics can be a lot of fun, an Arduino and a breadboard can get you started for under $100 and there are heaps of guides online to progress.
 
Another good way to meet people is to join a maker space, they normally will have a bunch of classes that you can attend for a reasonable price, then you get to learn cool things and meet cool people at the same time.

So much money, but your going with 3 slow 1TB SSDs over one larger significantly fast M.2 nvme SSD. Definety swap it for a 2TB M.2 NVME SSD. Also, why are you getting 2 16GB RAM kits when you could get a 32GB kit?

Thanks for the advice, will do this now. I'm doubting its the power supply at this point but I will try right now, just to rule that out. And yes I agree, one of the first things I did was take out the graphics card haha  makes things less complicated. Will post here in a bit with an update.

dual 2080tis for 1440p is pretty extreme overkill. Like $2000 overpriced overkill. Just on the GPUs.

Except the 8600K costs $100 more dollars than the 1700.

I5-7500 is around 60-80$, 100 pounds seems fair.

If you're sure the sound is coming from the AIO, and tilting the case around (to move the liquid around in the AIO) doesn't change the pitch of the sound, then you might have to RMA. I had a Fury X with its AIO and if the air in the system pooled on the pump it would get incredibly loud and temps would spike. By tilting the radiator around and moving the air around it completely removed the noise. I truly don't think the emblem orientation would cause the pump to fail or anything, some kits even come with a removable emblem so you can swap its orientation.

Get off windows 7, get windows 10 either by using google or by buying a key from a site like Kingpin for a fraction the price of retail.

Computers are simple.

I have developed for EFI for fun in the past and I do know what it is; it's where the bootloader is stored, and where details such as the BIOS time and other details are obtained, before they actually start launching up Windows.
 
You can do fun stuff with it too like this (burn to a USB or CD or DVD, whatever)
CD-image.iso

Yes. A dying PSU has absolutely zero correlation to GPU utilization.

>erased the EFI partition which has the bootloader and probably also a fuckton of important info for booting Windows in it
 

4 seconds without an active pump is nothing. There are plenty of people here who will do a quick (30-60 second) test on a CPU without using thermal paste or securing the cooler down, just setting it on top of the bare CPU. Beyond that, modern CPUs have controls to keep them from frying. Is it possible that that's what happened? Yeah, but not likely.
 
What's more likely, imo, is that pulling the fan and plugging it back in while the system was powered on shorted something, either directly or indirectly if you accidentally made contact with something else on/in contact with the board at the same time. I've seen a similar pull/replug of a fan fry a motherboard's BIOS chip. Look up the POST codes for your mobo. If it's stuck at 00, my guess would be that something on it shorted. You could gamble on that being a BIOS chip and try to track down and purchase a new one, or cut your losses and replace the board itself.

This review's gonna be an odd one, not because I'm gonna trash the Fury X, but rather, I wanna explore more than just simple "how does this card perform?" on this thread. I wanna tell you what possesses someone to buy this card in 2019, what this card pretty much is and the quirks that I've grown to learn or hate about it.
 

Welcome to the AMD Radeon R9 Fury X. This was AMD's answer to Nvidia's GeForce GTX 980 Ti that AMD launched in 2015. Being their first OEM all-in-one watercooled card (the R9 295X2 was a hybrid system, from what I remember) AMD intended this to be the knockout punch to the 980 Ti, it instead became an expensive and bizarre alternative to that card. But now in 2019, what makes it bewildering and what possessed me to purchase one?
 
A Little Bit of a Spec Sheet:
This was the fully-specced out version of the Fiji GPU series with 4096 stream processors rather than the 3584 of the R9 Fury, and clocked at 1050MHz, higher than the Fury Nano. Like other cards from the Fiji series, this has 4GB of HBM memory and are the first cards to use HBM. Unlike the R9 Fury and the Fury Nano (in where the former did have special variants that were watercooled), the Fury X could only be purchased as a watercooled model. Not much else I can bother to add, besides that we'll come back to the HBM in a while.
 
Getting the Fury X into a Smaller Case:
For anyone who's gonna get this card for a small case that doesn't allow for much cable management... reconsider, or at least think about what you're doing with it. Now, this is admittedly very scenario-specific, because I cannot organize anything in my case, but still. 
This is a picture of my rig with the Fury X in it. Now, some of the issues aren't related to my case but, funny enough, my capture card (namely the tilt of the card) but the clutter isn't related to the capture card. Just something I'd like to say that might be an issue for those who are more management challenged like I apparently am.
 
A Small Section about Performance on Games I Play:
Not really much I care to say here. It plays Forza Motorsport 7 and Forza Horizon 4 at 3840x2160 at 60fps... for the most part. I'm coming back to this because this WILL become relevant later on alongside the HBM part earlier.
Call of Duty: Black Ops also runs just fine at 3840x2160 on this card and ditto with CS:GO at any resolution I care to play at. For the former, I hit the 91fps cap in multiplayer about 99% of the time and the latter I can manage at least 100+fps with 4x MSAA at basically all times.
Oh, and of course Team Fortress 2 is held back by my CPU rather than my GPU, and Gran Turismo 3 and 4 on PCSX2 run just fine at way higher than native resolution at 60fps.
I'd actually like to expand this section so if you guys have any suggestions on what I could throw at the card, go ahead.
 
Using It for a Daily Rig:
Honestly, you'd think a card like this would be a bit annoying to use daily, but honestly? It's a shockingly good daily driver card, at least from what I've tested. I haven't really had any issues with the card in normal day-to-day tasks. Haven't had any issues with it in any browser, Vegas, YouTube, OBS, whatever I usually do.
 
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What Possesses Someone to Purchase a Fury X in 2019?
No, really: what made me want to go out and buy a Fury X?
Honestly, I think I could round it down to a couple of things: the desire to satisfy a dream that 15 year old me had and the desire to have a card with more 2160p grunt than an RX 580.
Ever since the card came out, I always found it WAAAAYYYYY more interesting than the 980 Ti just because of how bizarre this card is. No one in their right mind would stick an AiO on a 980 Ti-tier card in 2019, but AMD wasn't thinking straight in that time, so whadaya want?
But what about that desire to get more 2160p performance? Why did I mention FM7 and FH4 as something I'd talk about later? Why did I mention that I'd want to talk about the HBM later on? Simple:
 
4GB of VRAM Really Isn't Enough for a Good 2160p Experience
That's a bold statement to make, but honestly? The R9 Fury X has convinced me that you really should find a card with 6GB of VRAM or more for modern 2160p gaming, especially on games with less of a VRAM and hardware optimization blessing than the Forza games, because you're absolutely going to want to use higher quality textures for a game should that game have it, but the Fury X just won't have the amount of VRAM you want for those textures.
The card's got grunt, that's for damn sure (and no one ever accused the card of being slow), but even the fast-as-fuck VRAM can't keep up with the sheer amount it's gotta store at 2160p, and if the game uses MSAA? Fugedaboudit. It's gonna be tough for the card to cope with needing a lot of VRAM for textures and other data and the amount of VRAM MSAA will suck away. 
For older games, and games that have less of a demand on VRAM (and games that like fast VRAM), the Fury X is an absolute champ, so long as you aren't using HDMI, but for games that do need more VRAM (again, many modern games) then the Fury X will honestly start to falter.
On a related note, the fact that this card can't do 3840x2160 at 60Hz through HDMI actually irritates me the more I use the card on my downstairs TV that is a 4K set. I knew this going into the card, but yeah. It truly irritates me to no end the more I use it.
 
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How Do I Honestly Feel about the Card?
As much as some things irritate it... I just can't hate it all that much. It's a really nice looking GPU that has the kind of grunt I was looking for (for the most part), and for what I paid for it ($190 used, not too bad) I can't complain too much. It's what 2015-era me really wanted for their dream rig and managed to grab one finally, being able to complete my dream (granted, in a very different direction but with the same goal nonetheless) and being able to experience what the hell this card really was. 
The problem is that the card basically represents 2015-era AMD all too easily: wanting to hit the bullseye but instead of hitting the bullseye, they end up hitting the person next to the target in the head with their dart. It's a very powerful card hampered by tech AMD really wanted to use. I can't blame them, honestly: HBM is pretty damn dope, but it's just not all that useful for the task people really wanted to use them for: 2160p gaming. And with that, I honestly feel a little bit of a buyer's remorse with this card, because what this card can do, my 580 could do about 80% of it, but with more features that I just want. Namely 3840x2160 at 60Hz via HDMI and h265 hardware encoding.
 
Is there anything else you guys would like to hear about my card? Throw it down in the comments.

I agree the PSU is a overkill.  Also I agree you should drop the M.2 as it has no real world performance increase vs a SSD.

Cut the power supply down to a 550w unit, scrap the cooler, and drop the NVMe drive (It doesnt really do anything for you)- then you're golden**
 
**Unless you have a high refresh rate display then definitely go with vv

Can you get into bios? Most BIOS's give temps also at home screen of bios ^^ 
 
edit : you have an aorus motherboard, so yeah you can check temps in bios also of the cpu.
Maybe you can check it there, try to get in bios, let us know what temp it says there.

What currency? $210 is a bit high if we're talking USD. What do you plan on installing this in though? Your old HP rig won't support Ryzen... at all.

Not really worth using the base clock to overclock, just use the multiplier, if your VRM is good you can just throw 1.45V at it

Take a look at Bequiet and noctua, or noiseblocker.

Overclocking is by chance. You might have good memory and it'll clock high, or it might barely be able to go above stock. Every set is different and the better kit you buy the better chances are that it will clock higher usually. You shouldn't need dedicated cooling unless you were really pushing the limits with voltage.