Cooler Master Mastercase Racing, Porsche 917 Le Mans Tribute

[DevilishBooster]

7 minutes ago, Necrodead said:

Rustoleum painters touch primer, 2 or 3 layers, rather light, then gloss topcoat, applied 'wet' to get a good glossy effect. I did not use a clearcoat on most of the smaller pieces, but I did get chipping on the parts I put clearcoat on as well. The parts I polished and waxed had a better resistance to chipping, but it seemed to happen anyways. I pre-sanded with 600grit.

Ok, are you painting on bare metal or the sanded factory paint?

Bill, feel free to jump in here anytime since my painting skills/knowledge are a little out of date.

[Necrodead]

2 minutes ago, DevilishBooster said:

Ok, are you painting on bare metal or the sanded factory paint?

Bill, feel free to jump in here anytime since my painting skills/knowledge are a little out of date.

Factory paint, which may be a powder coat.

[DevilishBooster]

2 minutes ago, Necrodead said:

Factory paint, which may be a powder coat.

That could be part of the issue. Next time I would try using Rustoleum Self-Etching Primer after sanding. It should help the primer base bite/bind into the factory coating. Otherwise I would recommend trying to remove the factory paint. I would have to consult my manuals for more advice. I think @Mnpctech would be able to give better advice tho.

[Necrodead]

21 minutes ago, DevilishBooster said:

That could be part of the issue. Next time I would try using Rustoleum Self-Etching Primer after sanding. It should help the primer base bite/bind into the factory coating. Otherwise I would recommend trying to remove the factory paint. I would have to consult my manuals for more advice. I think @Mnpctech would be able to give better advice tho.

Ah, ok thanks. I'll try that next time.

[Mnpctech]

@Necrodead, It sounds like you're not creating enough adhesion for the paint. Scuff surface with medium grit sandpaper (400-600 grit), then clean the  surface with a tack cloth, before applying 2 - 3 coast of primer coat, before applying color coat one hour later (3 - 4 light coats, in 5 minute intervals (or manufacturer directions).

 

I prefer using "Self Etching Primer" for my primer coat, which is offered by several automotive aerosol paint manufacturers and available at most auto parts stores. My preferred brand is "SEM" Self etching primer  made for professionals. It's the best in the industry. It can be applied to either Plastic, bare Steel, or aluminum and dries very quickly (estimate 30 minutes), however it's spendy at $20 per can. It's also very, very toxic to breath in. You must apply in well ventilated area and wear a filtered respirator mask. 

 

I personally don't recommend RUSTOLEUM brand aerosol paints for the following reasons.

 

*RUSTOLEUM Nozzles clog easily

*RUSTOLEUM brand has long cure times

*RUSTOLEUM paint isn't durable, ie: your chipping issue

 

I highly recommend these two brand aerosol "automotive touch-up" paints below for DIY painting your PC case and or parts. These paints are engineered for painting engine blocks, so they're oil based, which means they're very forgiving when applying thick coats. However, these enamel paints require longer curing time, but enamel is more resilient to chipping once it's cured.

 

*PLASTIKOTE "Engine Enamel (High Temp) line of paint

*DUPLICOLOR "Engine Enamel (High Temp) line of paints. 

 

My video guide to painting your PC case.

 

The fans I'm using in this Cooler Master Mastercase 5 / Pro case mod are 120mm PROLIMATECH Ultra Sleek Vortex. Here is their product page, http://www.prolimatech.com/en/products/detail.asp?id=2722

 

This is 2nd time I've used these fans in custom build and love them. They're 15mm thick, so they can help you save space. Especially when mounting a radiator in the top panel which can block space to accessing DDR slots. I've painted the fan blades on these fans "GULF orange" to match our color theme. 

 

By request last year I created this DIY video guide to painting PC cooling fans,

 

 

 

 

I understand the thought of painting the blades on PC fans will raise concern with some people. I've done it on misc commissioned and personal builds for over decade and have yet to see any of those painted fans fail. I refrain from applying heavy coats which could throw off the balance of the blades, causing the fan bearings prematurely.

 

 

You can remove the fan blade hub by using a flat head screw driver to pop off the white retaining ring.

 

 

Next step is prepping the surface of the blades for primer base coat before we can apply the color coat.

 

 

 

 

The blades were topped off with gloss enamel clear coat.

 

[wildgg]

i might have to change underwear

 

amazing work!

[Necrodead]

@Mnpctech Thanks for the tips, seems I should have done a much better job sanding based on your video. 

 

 

[Mnpctech]

Thanks for watching and youre welcome!

 

I know my choice of fans are controversial, but nothing in my builds is ever permanent, and for anyone with a Cooler Master Mastercase 5 / Pro who liquid cools and pondered about the maximum radiator thickness you can install, between the chassis and the front bezel, I've outfitted mine with EK's XTX 360 that measures 64mm thick, but not without two compromises. You'll need to create a custom front grill for the bezel, as factory one will no longer fit. You also need trim the backside of the upper horizontal brace under the 5.25 bay location. 

Dimensions (LxWxH): 400x130x64mm 
Weight: Approx. 1496g
Liquid Capacity: Approx. 510 ml (17,25 fl oz)
FPI: 11
Fan installation: 12 x M3 threads on both sides each (for 3x120mm fan each) 
Pressure tested: 1bar 

[Montoyatok]

Just love the switches and paint job

[Necrodead]

MMMM.... that radiator looks goood!

[Moonzy]

that front panel io... this thread must be flagged for tech porn

[SharkyMoto]

holy shit dude, i've seen so many car themed mods, but this is really the first one that is not an outrage on using wood to imitate shapes, its simple and beautiful, well done!

[Mnpctech]

Thank you for watching and commenting everyone!

 

The XTX radiator will utilize three Nidec-Servo Scythe Gentle Typhoons (Model# D122C). Here is my steps for dismantling them.

 

This fan has been regarded as the best static pressure optimized fan by DIY PC community since it's release in 2008. The original D122C is no longer made, but there is limited stock available at some online retailers. Last year the D122C Scythe GT fan was resurrected and manufactured as "Darkside Black Edition" by Dazmode. It's the same specs as the original, but now has Black fan blades. Many PC Modders including myself have painted these fans to fit the color schemes of our custom PC builds. I've been asked several times over the years how to remove the c-clip without losing or breaking it? Like many others, I've also lost these tiny c-clips while learning the best technique for removal. This is my DIY guide to removing and installing external retaining ring or c-clip.

Nidec-Servo's Scythe Gentle Typhoon Factory Spec PDF link, http://www.nidec-servo.com/en/digital/pdf/D1225C.pdf*
Speed: *2150RPM
Air performance : 68.8CFM
Nose: 34db (25cm from the fan, free air)
Power: 12VDC, 0.123A (0.63A peak max)
Operational voltage range: 5-12V (~900rpm-2150rpm)
Bearing: Ball
Expected life: 100000h/35c or 55000h/60c
Appearance: Full black
Dimensions: *119 x 119 x 25 mm / 4.68 x 4.68 x 0.98 in

WARNING:

Perform this task with Safety Glasses, the tiny Black metal retaining ring (c-clip) can and likely will pop off, so perform this task in a clean workspace, so you can find it. I suggest doing the work on a large white bed sheet and holding a large magnet near the fan hub as you remove and re-install the c-clip, to increase you're chances of not losing the c-clip. I haven't found a source for ordering replacement c-clips yet, but I'm still searching.

Here is my suggested Tools & Supplies

Safety Glasses (not pictured)
Heat Gun for removing the fan label. Hair Dryer on HIGH setting will work as well.
10" Wire Cable Tie
Large magnet (not pictured)
External Fixed-Tip Retaining Ring Pliers
Tweezers
Needle Nose Pliers
Super Glue (not pictured)

 

 

External Fixed-Tip Retaining Ring Pliers, http://www.saeproducts.com/retaining-ring-tool.html

 

 

The fan blade looks as if it would snap-on and off, but not the case. 

 

 

We need to remove the back label to access the external metal c-clip on the fan shaft.

 

 

Swipe heat gun or hair dryer back and forth over the label.

 

 

Use the Tweezer to peel off the fan label.

 

 

Stick the fan label on a clean metal surface while you perform your work.

 

 

You will tie down the fan hub with this Twisty tie. The fan shaft has a retention spring inside. You need to compress this spring, so you can remove the metal c-clip. If you don't, it's almost a guarantee that the c-clip will fly off the shaft faster than a bullet.

 

Using Twisty tie to compress the fan hub spring, by tying down the hub to the fan frame.

[Mnpctech]

 

 

Close ups of the Black metal c-clip inside the Scythe Gentle Typhoon.

 

 

 

Insert the two prongs of the Retaining Ring Plier inside the jaw of the c-clip.

 

 

If you have a large Magnet, Position it near the fan hub, just in case the c-clip pops off.

 

 

 

Holding the black metal c-clip in the Retaining Ring Plier.

 

 

You will widen the jaw of the c-clip and need to bend it back to it's original opening, so it maintains it's grip.

 

 

Hold the c-clip in the Tweezer while using a Needle Nose Plier to compress jaw of the c-clip.

[Mnpctech]

 

Doing this will allow you to re-use the metal c-clip.

 

 
Here is the Scythe Gentle Typhoon 120mm Cooling fan dismantled. Next stage is painting the fans GULF Blue & Orange, or just one color? I haven't decided yet

[DevilishBooster]

That is an awesome guide! Thanks Bill!

[colinreay]

I feel almost an iFixit guide vibe from this. Great guide, useful information, and gives all the tools needed, with helpful links to get the same exact tools used in the guide (that are hard to find.) Really like this stuff Bill, keep it up!

[Mnpctech]

Glad you like the updates guys! I debated yesterday about which color to paint the Scythe GTs for EK's 360 XTX Radiator. Decided to leave the fan blade hubs their factory grey and paint the frames GULF Blue, which works together and helps break up all of the orange.

 

Primer Coat application not pictured

 

 

Clear coat applied

[Mnpctech]

Re-assembled the GTs yesterday with these replacement C-clip Retainer Rings that fit Gentle Typhoon fan axels, http://mnpctech.com/case-mods-gaming-pc-liquid-modding-custom-computer-mnpctech-overclock-cooling-fan-grills/ball-bearing-pc-cooling-fan-external-retaining-ring-or-c-clip-pliers-clone.html 

I use two micro flat head screw drivers to snap the c-clip over the fan motor axle / shaft

[Mnpctech]

EK's 360mm XTX radiator has convenient port on bottom for draining your loop. I'm using a Koolance Drain Valve with two of their swiveling 90 degree "snake" extensions.(Bitspower also makes a nice drain valve)  

 

 

Koolance Drain valve (4 way Splitter won't be used in this build)

 

 

I'm using two of these Koolance swiveling 90 degree "snake" extensions. The others were used in Origin PC build, http://mnpctech.com/genesis-the-evolution-of-the-mod-munky-staff-project-with-origin-pc-genesis-full-tower.html

 

 

 

The two swiveling 90 degree "snake" extensions allow you to angle the drain valve under the Mastercase bezel and foot.

 

 

Having the drain valve outside of the chassis makes periodic maintenance of draining and refilling the liquid loop easy.

 

[DevilishBooster]

I've never seen that model rad on their website. Is that an older model or something they are just bringing to market, and are there 140mm series models? I have a project I'm working on that is going to use two 420mm rads, but I really would like them to have drain ports if possible.

[pagani123]

1 hour ago, DevilishBooster said:

I've never seen that model rad on their website. Is that an older model or something they are just bringing to market, and are there 140mm series models? I have a project I'm working on that is going to use two 420mm rads, but I really would like them to have drain ports if possible.

i believe its an older one 

[Necrodead]

too bad that will be covered, I like those rotary fittings.

[DevilishBooster]

7 hours ago, Maybach123 said:

i believe its an older one 

Dang....

[Mnpctech]

@DevilishBooster It's no longer made, which is a shame. Alphacool Nexxos 420mm radiators have drain and fill ports, 

 

http://www.aquatuning.us/water-cooling/radiators/radiators-active/?p=1&o=5&n=12&f=86%7C643