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Are US Computer Components Compatible with UK Computer Components ?

B-Slam

Europe is that kid who puts their dongle covered in tin foil into a wall socket for Youtube.

 

I'm joking, I <3 you Euro members..!

 

 

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Europe likes to live on the edge.

 

Europe is that kid who puts their dongle covered in tin foil into a wall socket for Youtube.

 

I'm joking, I <3 you Euro members..!

 

It has a higher efficiency thanks to the higher voltage 

 

and we do not that!often

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Why would you use 240 volt in a house for anything other than your washer/dryer/refrigerator? That's....ridiculous. I've gotten hit by 240 volt and everyone, including the welding class teacher was surprised that it didn't kill me outright.

230V is waaaaaaaaay more efficient because higher PD (volts) = lower current (amps), and the greater the current, the greater the inefficiency (this also means that less wiring is required, and lower value fuses can be used (so higher power draw devices can use a standard fuse (there are some computers that need special treatment in the US but not Europe))). There is a greater risk from 230V (although it still isn't enough to kill you, despite what you appear to have been told), but it is also much cheaper and easier.

There are also more strict and effective safety measures in the UK specifically to make it herder to get electrocuted (our plugs are really difficult to electrocute yourself with, even if badly mistreated).

Conversion from 230V AC to 12V DC (in a power supply) is much more efficient than from 110V, so power supplies have separate efficiency graphs for each.

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230V is waaaaaaaaay more efficient because higher PD (volts) = lower current (amps), and the greater the current, the greater the inefficiency (this also means that less wiring is required, and lower value fuses can be used (so higher power draw devices can use a standard fuse (there are some computers that need special treatment in the US but not Europe))). There is a greater risk from 230V (although it still isn't enough to kill you, despite what you appear to have been told), but it is also much cheaper and easier.

There are also more strict and effective safety measures in the UK specifically to make it herder to get electrocuted (our plugs are really difficult to electrocute yourself with, even if badly mistreated).

Conversion from 230V AC to 12V DC (in a power supply) is much more efficient than from 110V, so power supplies have separate efficiency graphs for each.

You are probably right about all of that, except that 230v can't kill you, it can, a 120v can kill you if it hits you right. All it takes is .7 milli-amps (might be wrong measurement, not so good with electrical measurements, but they figured it out on mythbusters, it's not nearly as much as you'd think it would take) across the heart. Basically it takes less than an amp across the heart to cause cardiac arrest. It was one of their early episodes.

 

Also I don't doubt you have better standards, I'm living in a 60+ year old house, and 90% of the sockets don't have the third prong (which for those of you not using american style plugs, is the ground prong)

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Why would you use 240 volt in a house for anything other than your washer/dryer/refrigerator? That's....ridiculous. I've gotten hit by 240 volt and everyone, including the welding class teacher was surprised that it didn't kill me outright.

It's not just the voltage, but the cycling frequencies along with Amperage that'll cause a difference.

 

Last I checked North America does 110-120V @ 60Hz, whilst Europe, Australia (and nearby countries like NZ) uses 230-240V @ 50Hz. So the voltage is higher, the cycle rate is lower, and the amperage is probably gonna be different too (we do 230V 10A @ 50Hz as the nominal here in Aus, for 3-pinned devices. 2-pin devices (no Earthing) are capped at 7.5A).

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It's not just the voltage, but the cycling frequencies along with Amperage that'll cause a difference.

 

Last I checked North America does 110-120V @ 60Hz, whilst Europe, Australia (and nearby countries like NZ) uses 230-240V @ 50Hz. So the voltage is higher, the cycle rate is lower, and the amperage is probably gonna be different too (we do 230V 10A @ 50Hz as the nominal here in Aus, for 3-pinned devices. 2-pin devices (no Earthing) are capped at 7.5A).

Interesting, yall call it earthing? wonder where that difference came from, we say grounding. Also we have annoying people that refer to "the power" as "the current" as in "the current's out" as opposed to "the power is out" lol

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Interesting, yall call it earthing? wonder where that difference came from, we say grounding. Also we have annoying people that refer to "the power" as "the current" as in "the current's out" as opposed to "the power is out" lol

Well, you Ground out to a pin in the Earth, so really Ground & Earth are just as valid as the other (though which one someone uses is more controlled by how they were taught, both are recognised, but Earth is the slightly more preferred term in technical speak).

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Well, you Ground out to a pin in the Earth, so really Ground & Earth are just as valid as the other (though which one someone uses is more controlled by how they were taught, both are recognised, but Earth is the slightly more preferred term in technical speak).

Oh I wasn't saying it wasn't valid, just thought it was an interesting term that I've never heard before. And it does sound more technically correct when I think about it.

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Europe is that kid who puts their dongle covered in tin foil into a wall socket for Youtube.

 

I'm joking, I <3 you Euro members..!

Is there a video of that?

 

Also, I remember when I plugged a hairdryer to a wall socket right after shower (I was still wet) when I was 6 years old. Needless to say my right hand got electrocuted and got a small burn to the palm of the right hand. It hurt, but surprisingly I didn't cry (pain tolerance of 6 year-olds is low, even small cuts make small children cry). And that's pretty much the biggest "injury" I've ever gotten (well... It wasn't even a temporary injury, hence the quotation marks)

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Though, I think the guy was either American or Canadian judging by the socket.

What... The... Actual... F***!?

 

I though people were smarter than that...

Never trust my advice. Only take any and all advice from me with a grain of salt. Just a heads up.

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Well the British parts may invade the American parts but if you add some French parts then they will back up the American parts and everyone will play nice for the next 300 years.

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Dont a lot of power supplies have 120/240 switches on them. At least all of mine have them.

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That just seems dangerous and wasteful. I've been hit by both 120 and 240, 120 was more of a tingling sensations, whereas 240 felt like getting kicked in the chest 20 times per second

 

Not sure it's so wasteful considering you don't get 1500W and above PSUs for computers in the US exactly because of these limitations with the US power network.

 

At least the EVGA 1500W is not available in the US

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Not sure it's so wasteful considering you don't get 1500W and above PSUs for computers in the US exactly because of these limitations with the US power network.

 

At least the EVGA 1500W is not available in the US

WTF do you need a 1500W psu for? I can't imagine.

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Yes but watch out for warranty issues.

 

Some power supply units will only do either 120v or 240v however they are fairly uncommon. The bigger issue is switchable power supply units that have a warranty sticker over them. The prime example was a Fractal 800w I was working with today: it had a 'warranty void if removed' sticker over the 240/120V selector switch. 

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Yes but watch out for warranty issues.

 

Some power supply units will only do either 120v or 240v however they are fairly uncommon. The bigger issue is switchable power supply units that have a warranty sticker over them. The prime example was a Fractal 800w I was working with today: it had a 'warranty void if removed' sticker over the 240/120V selector switch. 

 

That my friend is nonsense... I can't see why a company would add the feature, then 'remove' it. 

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That my friend is nonsense... I can't see why a company would add the feature, then 'remove' it. 

Ask @FractalJosh in regards to the Tesla 800w PSU? Giant 'Warranty Void If Removed' over the switch. 

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Why would you use 240 volt in a house for anything other than your washer/dryer/refrigerator? That's....ridiculous. I've gotten hit by 240 volt and everyone, including the welding class teacher was surprised that it didn't kill me outright.

My classmates and I touched an exposed 220v line from a wall outlet for fun when we were kids. Yeah we were dumb.

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My classmates and I touched an exposed 220v line from a wall outlet for fun when we were kids. Yeah we were dumb.

I accidentally touched a welding rod on a stick welder (the kind with an actual power coupling, the big kind that takes about 6 people or a forklift to move) while my elbow on my other arm was resting on the metal table that was ground.

 

Yeah it fucking hurt like hell. Not sure what the voltage is, but it was the kind of power coupling that you plug in, and then screw down a ring that locks it in place.

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There are non-PFC power supplies and PFC power supplies. If it's non-PFC it has a physical switch you have to flip when switching from 120 to 240 volts. If it's PFC, it switches automatically.

 

Needless to say, 240V master race.

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