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Technous285

Member
  • Content Count

    811
  • Joined

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3 Followers

About Technous285

  • Title
    Member
  • Birthday Jan 13, 1988

Profile Information

  • Location
    Riverina, Australia
  • Gender
    Not Telling

System

  • CPU
    Intel i7-5820K
  • Motherboard
    MSI X99A SLI Krait Edition
  • RAM
    (2x) 32GB (4x8GB kit) Corsair Dominator Platinum 2400MHz DDR4
  • GPU
    (2x) EGVA 6GB GTX980TI SC+ ACX 2.0+
  • Case
    Thermaltake Core X71
  • Storage
    500GB Samsung 850 EVO M.2 + 4TB Seagate Barracuda (old 4x4TB Array is in storage)
  • PSU
    850W Antec HCP Platinum
  • Display(s)
    Acer XG270HU + 2x LG Flatron E2441
  • Cooling
    Coolermaster Nepton 120XL/EVGA ACX 2.0+
  • Keyboard
    WolfClaw/Logitech Wireless (Circa 2002)
  • Mouse
    AULA Gaming Mouse
  • Sound
    Onboard audio/Sennheiser HD201 headphones
  • Operating System
    Windows 10 Pro
  • PCPartPicker URL

Recent Profile Visitors

1,830 profile views
  1. Just because Nintendo doesn't provide ISO's and other dumps of games on their system, doesn't make it illegal for someone who owns original media to say "fuck you" and make their own dump of their copy of original media. Additionally whilst Nintendo doesn't like it, they can't do jack squat legally about people modifying their consoles beyond refusing to do warranty repairs on them as First Sale Doctrine strips away any control that Nintendo might have had on the systems once they are purchased by the consumer (which is why companies like Ford can't force you to buy tyres from a Ford deal
  2. With PSU's like that, instead of having a single 24-pin bank taking up space on the face of the unit for the motherboard connector, they split the PSU side of the 24-pin ATX motherboard cable to a 14-pin & 10-pin duo to free up space for other devices on SATA/Molex & PCIe whilst keeping the hardware related to the motherboard power (involving 12V, 5V & 3V rails, everything else is just 12V or 5V) in the one general area instead of spreading it out. In other words: if the PSU has something particular printed on the face related to a set of pins, then that's what those pi
  3. Laser printers - yes. Sure the printers are expensive upfront, and toner can seem expensive, but it's not a scam that costs more than blood. Inkjet printers - hell no! The ink cartridges are tiny capacity for their size, more expensive per-litre than blood, and is often full of should-be-illegal DRM (see Lexmark) used to prevent people from using cartridges they refill or refilled by a third party instead of buying new brand-made ones which is where the margins for the printer makers are in inkjets. Additionally laser printer toner is more stable and survives longer than inkje
  4. Fair enough, and truth there. Even at 12.4.8 on my 32GB iPhone 6, I feel safer using it as a daily driver just for the pin+fingerprint reader combo, while my previous phone was a Huawei Y625 stuck on Android 4.4.2 unless I felt like bricking it with a root (I have it as a offline 2FA device now) which maybe? had a pin you could set instead of the swipe-to-unlock default. If I have a cool $1-2K AUD by the end of 2021, I might treat myself with an iPhone 12 of some flavour, move most of my stuff to that and use the 6 as a offline 2FA device and factory reset the Huawei before gi
  5. Actually, iOS 12.4.8 is the current version for iPhone 6, due to the 1GB RAM in the device and iOS 13+ wants 2GB or more of RAM to officially update (like High Sierra is the last you can put on a mid-2010 Macbook as Mojave wants a GPU with Metal API support officially). But still, if there comes out a problem with iOS 12 that hasn't been fixed already, Apple is more likely to fix it and do so for at least another year or so, rather than let it rot unlike Android. Been rocking my 36GB iPhone 6 since late-2016 and I'd happy with it, though wouldn't mind updating to a iPhone 12 i
  6. Eh, I dunno about that chief. Back in late-2016 I needed a new phone was was no more than $300 AUD (skinflint budget, I know), had 4G cellular capability (my old 3G phone's connection was getting wonky), would get OS updates and security fixes for at least 3 if not up to 5 years, and wasn't coming with an OS that was already 5 years out of date (Hello~ Android 4.4 KitKat!). I searched every reputable Australian retailer that sold phones and tablets, found that JB HiFi had exactly what I was looking for, and it just so happened to be the 32GB iPhone 6 (yeah, yeah "Bendgate" and
  7. Not really, HDD's have features to 'park' the heads and slow down the drives when not being read from/written to to save power and wear and tear. Otherwise, there's not much 'wear and tear' from solid-state parts like CPU, GPU, chipset & RAM (or SSD for that matter) once they've had the initial surge to initiate their functions, as long as the electrons freely flow and the parts aren't cooking from being worked to their limits.
  8. Historically speaking; you're MORE likely to kill a computer by turning it off and on each day, as each time that happens you're sending surges of power in to key components like the CPU, GPU, chipset, RAM, drives & monitor (especially CRT's) to wake them up and prepare them for operation. Nowadays, leaving a computer idling overnight instead of sleep or hibernation (with trickle power to components and not surges to wake them) is only gonna make a difference to your power bill more than component longevity as systems and parts are built with better quality, tolerances and powe
  9. Example; I have a Vita 1000, VitaTV & PSTV. I put CFW on my Vita 1000 to try out homebrew software (which isn't too bad) and as a "why the hell not?" type experimentation to see what is involved in installing CFW on a system, whilst my VitaTV is hooked up to my streaming capture setup so I can play my PSOne/PSP/Vita games I legally bought and own and the PSTV sits there as an emergency backup if something goes wrong with the VitaTV and I need to do work on that system that'll take a few weeks of waiting (shipping) but keep to a streaming schedule. If anything goes wrong with any
  10. I would suggest using the MultiMC launcher to handle Minecraft instances (both modded and vanilla) instead of the default Java Edition launcher, especially under any flavour of Linux or MacOS. I've been using MultiMC since around Beta 1.7/Beta 1.8 (been playing since Alpha 1.1) and find it extremely handy to manage and launch any of my instances of Minecraft that I have set up in it.
  11. I mean, I got a C2Q Q9505-powered build in an old Lian Li case from 2004, only cable management holes are for the front panel ports (2x USB 2.0, headphone/microphone jacks, Firewire 800 port with it's own sheathed cable to run to the plug on a add-in card!) power/reset switches and power/HDD LED's. With a semi-modular PSU in there, closest thing to cable management for that to hide the cables from view through the side panel is just shove the excess length in a spare 5.25" bay!
  12. When I was in my late teens to mid 20's, I swore I'd never buy an Apple product... Now I'm in my early 30's and I have a 32GB iPhone 6 (bought brand-new), mid-2010 Macbook A1342 (refurbished) & a 2009 21.5" iMac (refurbished) that I picked up over the past ~4 years, and I'm seriously giving consideration to buying a moderate 2020/2021 iMac for most of my daily driving, and only keeping a Windows system built to be overkill for games circa 2020 to last me a good 5-10 years. I'm not gone full "Apple fanboy" or "apologist", but between macOS 10 & Windows 10, I'm honestly fairl
  13. Here's me rocking; i7-5820K, MSI X99A SLI Krait, 64GB (8x8GB) Corsair Dominator Platinum DDR4-2400 (XMP at 2666), twin GTX 980Ti's as my main rig i7-6700, MSI Z170A, 32GB (4x8GB) G.Skill Ripjaws 4 F4-2800C16Q, GTX 960 & a Elgato HD60 Pro as my console capture box C2Q Q9505, Gigabyte GA-EP41-UD3L-B3 (Rev 1.2), 4GB (2x2GB) Corsair DDR2-667, GTX 760 as my WinXP Retro Rig (dual-boot with Win7 to get stuff running on Steam & GOG on it, updated with XP USP4 and a 64-bit aware patch so can access up to 64GB of RAM in 32-bit XP) Oh, and then there's; i7-5820K, M
  14. The 75W of power delivered over PCIe comes from the first batch of pins before the notch in the card edge that defines the card/slot as a 1x, 2x, 4x, 8x or 16x card/slot. Every card gets the same 75W of power from the slot, all that differs is the physical length of the data side of the card edge, the length of the slot and how much of the slot is wired up for what particular data throughput of whichever version of PCIe it is (eg: PCIe 3.0 16x card will fit and work in any 16x slot even if the slot is only wired for something like PCIe 2.0 8x, the card will throttle itself to transfer dat
  15. Good gravy, I was just cackling like a madman seeing all that damage the TV just absorbed and asked for more. I have a feeling they're using Gorilla Glass or a high-quality competitor for that front panel of the screen that just took it like a champ.
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