Everyone Needs This and it’s under $10 - Handy Tech Under $100

[dbtech]

15 minutes ago, fireflies38 said:

Anyone have links for getting those sliders that are shown in the video ? Maybe Aliexpress or something ?

It's pretty bad when people have to create accounts on websites to ask for this stuff when they should just post it in the video description or here on the forum post. 

I REALLY wanted to build this, but they've dropped the ball on providing the list of parts they used.

[Freakwise]

@fireflies38 & @dbtech

Here i found it On AliExpress on the shop that i have experience with, also it seems like this thing is getting rarer compared to couples years back if memory serve 

https://a.aliexpress.com/_opXQFTA

 

 

[dbtech]

@Freakwise

Thank you for this. I don't know why they didn't post this, but I appreciate you taking the time to find and share this. Really helps the community a lot!

 

Edit to add that it appears that customers can only order 1 from this shop, so I'm going to have to find them somewhere else.

[dbtech]

@fireflies38 @Freakwise

Found these on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/-/es/hiletgo-logarítmica-potenciómetro-Arduino-Electronic/dp/B01CZVZ16O

[Freakwise]

1 minute ago, dbtech said:

@fireflies38 @Freakwise

Found these on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/-/es/hiletgo-logarítmica-potenciómetro-Arduino-Electronic/dp/B01CZVZ16O

Honestly not a bad price considering if Amazon can deliver faster and location wise more 'local' to you, definitely much better deal compared to what e commerce on my country pricing it at 

[lord_galathon]

This is going to sound like silly but I have been using Akai and Korg branded USB controllers to control volume recordings in my DAW software for years but cannot for the life of me figure out how to assign any of the sliders, knobs or thumbsticks to my computer's audio out channel via software.

 

I'd love to be able to use a simple USB device I already own, like a Korg NanoKontrol2, as a 'live' volume controller for my computer's main output, camera or headset microphone, Teams meetings audio, etc.

You'd think this feature would be built into Windows 10 or 11 by now. 

[JordB]

BoM coming, guys. Stand By!

[dbtech]

1 minute ago, JordB said:

BoM coming, guys. Stand By!

Thanks!! Really looking forward to this

[Freakwise]

1 hour ago, lord_galathon said:

This is going to sound like silly but I have been using Akai and Korg branded USB controllers to control volume recordings in my DAW software for years but cannot for the life of me figure out how to assign any of the sliders, knobs or thumbsticks to my computer's audio out channel via software.

 

I'd love to be able to use a simple USB device I already own, like a Korn NanoKontrol2, as a 'live' volume controller for my computer's main output, camera or headset microphone, Teams meetings audio, etc.

You'd think this feature would be built into Windows 10 or 11 by now. 

for what its worth i found this on the net that use midi instead of serial like deej to control windows volume and other, maybe worth checking it out

 

MIDI Mixer - Control Windows volumes (and more) with MIDI (midi-mixer.com)

[darknessblade]

3 hours ago, Drogoslaw said:

It's the same for me. It seems such an obvious device to make, but I was unable to find ANY attempts of creating a thing like this for years. And I never got to designing it myself.

 

This is the kind of LTT content I enjoy, not some yet-another-over-the-top-build.

Would love to see more like this as well. where they build and test weird and slightly unknown projects like this.

 

With Aliexpress their Anniversary sale going on, getting most parts now will give you a even better bargain.

[JordB]

Hey all, as a bunch of you have requested, here's a BoM for the the final version of the Deej controller that we show in the video. I've picked examples that are on the low end of the price scale, but I'd always encourage shopping around for the best deal!

 

More instructions can be found on the Deej project page at https://github.com/omriharel/deej with the table of contents starting here: https://github.com/omriharel/deej?tab=readme-ov-file#table-of-contents

 

Deej also has an active discord server full of very helpful folks here:  https://discord.gg/nf88NJu 

 

With that out of the way, here's what we used:

 

Enclosure - STL files are on the OP - note that the opening for the USB jack was designed pretty tight and not all cables will fit. You might want to tweak the model to give a little more room, or sand it down a little after printing. We used about 250g of Prusament PLA Prusa Galaxy Black https://lmg.gg/NlhQu 

 

Microcontroller - Generic Arduino 'pro micro' clone based on the ATMEGA32U4. There's still a ton of out there with USB micro jacks on them, so search for "TYPE-C ATMEGA32U4"

Should look like this, though colors vary:  

Examples

    eBay:  https://ebay.us/EUvhmJ

    AliExpress: https://lmg.gg/Ljtk6

 

Wiring - Any sort of hookup wire is fine, but Dupont style jumper wires are a nice option. Buy a mixed pack and you'll have plenty of wires for this and future projects!  Search for:  "Dupont Jumper"

 

Example: https://geni.us/TUDhou

 

Potentiometers - We used B10K pots that come on their own little boards for easy mounting. It can be tricky to find a good price on these, so take your time when searching!  Search for:   "B10K potentiometer slider"

 

Examples

    eBay: (10K Linear Slide Potentiometer) https://ebay.us/CFbOG2

    AliExpress: (Single Sliding 10k) https://lmg.gg/tXR1z

 

 

 

Purchases made through some store links may provide some compensation to Linus Media Group.

[dbtech]

31 minutes ago, JordB said:

Hey all, as a bunch of you have requested, here's a BoM for the the final version of the Deej controller that we show in the video. I've picked examples that are on the low end of the price scale, but I'd always encourage shopping around for the best deal!

Thank you for this!

[DaITguy]

Yoooo! LTT theme song is back!

[TheWhip]

6 hours ago, dbtech said:

@fireflies38 @Freakwise

Found these on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/-/es/hiletgo-logarítmica-potenciómetro-Arduino-Electronic/dp/B01CZVZ16O

The GetHub says "Important: make sure to get linear sliders, not logarithmic ones! Check the product description" just fyi

https://github.com/omriharel/deej?tab=readme-ov-file#bill-of-materials

[Ananords]

17 hours ago, Drogoslaw said:

 

Do you have the ETA? Or a customizable FOSS Linux driver in mind (the linked one is closed-source and Windows-only)? I'm probably going to make and configure a deej myself, but this might become an interesting alternative.

 

 

Currently, we are aiming for Q3 this year. Mac and Linux versions will come once we know that this is a product that people want, which by the response looks like it could be:) We are just doing it on the side, so funds and time is limited. We also might open-source it at a later stage, at first we just want to get it going.

We have a DIY version already out, though, which is just our take on deej. For that we have an instructables with a tutorial for the 3D printed version, together with BOM:)

[ryantiger658]

22 hours ago, JordB said:

Hey all, as a bunch of you have requested, here's a BoM for the the final version of the Deej controller that we show in the video. I've picked examples that are on the low end of the price scale, but I'd always encourage shopping around for the best deal!

 

More instructions can be found on the Deej project page at https://github.com/omriharel/deej with the table of contents starting here: https://github.com/omriharel/deej?tab=readme-ov-file#table-of-contents

 

Deej also has an active discord server full of very helpful folks here:  https://discord.gg/nf88NJu 

 

With that out of the way, here's what we used:

 

Enclosure - STL files are on the OP - note that the opening for the USB jack was designed pretty tight and not all cables will fit. You might want to tweak the model to give a little more room, or sand it down a little after printing. We used about 250g of Prusament PLA Prusa Galaxy Black https://lmg.gg/NlhQu 

 

Microcontroller - Generic Arduino 'pro micro' clone based on the ATMEGA32U4. There's still a ton of out there with USB micro jacks on them, so search for "TYPE-C ATMEGA32U4"

Should look like this, though colors vary:  

Examples

    eBay:  https://ebay.us/EUvhmJ

    AliExpress: https://lmg.gg/Ljtk6

 

Wiring - Any sort of hookup wire is fine, but Dupont style jumper wires are a nice option. Buy a mixed pack and you'll have plenty of wires for this and future projects!  Search for:  "Dupont Jumper"

 

Example: https://geni.us/TUDhou

 

Potentiometers - We used B10K pots that come on their own little boards for easy mounting. It can be tricky to find a good price on these, so take your time when searching!  Search for:   "B10K potentiometer slider"

 

Examples

    eBay: (10K Linear Slide Potentiometer) https://ebay.us/CFbOG2

    AliExpress: (Single Sliding 10k) https://lmg.gg/tXR1z

 

 

 

Purchases made through some store links may provide some compensation to Linus Media Group.

What are the screw specs used for the 3d printed case that you guys designed?

[sub68]

On 3/19/2024 at 8:46 PM, Freakwise said:

Just looked it up now, they don't sell a bare 128x64 oled anymore and the only one available rn is the one with qt connector at $17 so not that cheap compared to the standard "bare" one you find on AliExpress

 

Same goes for sparkfun though it's a bit cheaper at $10

Fair, I use adafruit because I know the stuff works with atleast arduinos and raspberry pi and programming it is easier because adafruits support.

[JordB]

10 minutes ago, ryantiger658 said:

What are the screw specs used for the 3d printed case that you guys designed?

To be honest, it was basically "whatever was laying around on the desk at the time", but if you want to get technical about it...

 

The internal screws are your typical M3 x 1/4" PC screws. The four longer ones holding the case together are also M3, but socket head cap and I believe 20mm long (maybe 25?) - take a measurement of the total thickness of the case and go a couple millimeters shorter. I also enlarged the through-holes in the top half with a 1/8" drill bit so the threads only engage in the bottom half of the case, making less annoying to assemble.

[EclipseMantis]

On 3/21/2024 at 12:57 PM, JordB said:

To be honest, it was basically "whatever was laying around on the desk at the time", but if you want to get technical about it...

 

The internal screws are your typical M3 x 1/4" PC screws. The four longer ones holding the case together are also M3, but socket head cap and I believe 20mm long (maybe 25?) - take a measurement of the total thickness of the case and go a couple millimeters shorter. I also enlarged the through-holes in the top half with a 1/8" drill bit so the threads only engage in the bottom half of the case, making less annoying to assemble.

Just registered just to say thank you for the BoM! Super appreciated

[peeteer]

Edit: I built a second one for a colleague

 

Seeing as the deej was mentioned with Linux-compatibility, I decided to build one with the LTT-Case.

 

Hardware

As Jordan mentioned above, the hole for the USB-C cable can be undersized depending on your Cable. I just sanded it until the Cable I wanted to use fit.

 

For the screws I used some m3x10 self tappers for the smaller screws and m3.5x25 self tappers for the longer ones. In hindsight the longer screws should be m3x20 self tappers, otherwise they might come out the other side.

 

With the microcontroller you really want to solder the contacts to the pcb (or pins if they are already attached). Otherwise your lid will not close.

 

Linux

 

The Linux compatibility works, but requires some additional set-up. It also only uses PulseAudio, meaning you cannot adjust the volume of Pipewire applications (you can but only with the master-volume). The only occasion where this was a problem for me has been Minecraft.

 

Additional setup:

• flashing the SparkFun Pro Micro
  • the pins you want to use are A0, A1, A2, A3 and A6
  • all required information is included in the docs
  • https://learn.sparkfun.com/tutorials/qwiic-pro-micro-usb-c-atmega32u4-hookup-guide
• using the correct serial port
  • You need to define a udev rule so that your microcontroller is always available under the same path. Otherwise the path will change as soon as you unplug/replug or reboot.
    1. get the vendorid and productid of your microcontroller with lsusb
    2.  add a udev rule as described here https://unix.stackexchange.com/questions/66901/how-to-bind-usb-device-under-a-static-name
    3. set the com_port field in the deej config to /dev/my_uart (or whatever you set)

Edited April 12 by peeteer
added another image

[ThankGodItsFriday]

At 11:31 in the video, Linus talks about an air duster. Is this the new replacement for those cans of air? I tried to get some the other day, and I decided against it because I needed an U.S. government-issued ID (driver's license, etc.) just to purchase it. Apparently, things have changed since I last bought canned air nearly a decade ago, or at least needing an ID to buy it wasn't as heavily enforced by stores as it is now.

 

I don't know what the rules are like in Canada, but that's true in most stores across the United States. Some can still let you buy it without an ID, though.

 

EDIT: I can buy cans of air from Amazon. Right now. No ID required, apparently. What the heck?!?

[ThankGodItsFriday]

Decided to let ChatGPT answer my questions for me (this makes me want Linus' blower even more now, actually):

Me: Do you need a government-issued ID to buy cans of air in the United States?

ChatGPT: As of my last update in January 2022, purchasing cans of compressed air, typically used for cleaning electronics or other delicate equipment, does not typically require a government-issued ID in the United States. However, some retailers may have their own policies regarding the sale of certain products, including age restrictions or other requirements.

It's always a good idea to check with the specific retailer or consult their website for any policies or restrictions they may have in place regarding the sale of compressed air or similar products. Additionally, local laws and regulations may vary, so it's worth being aware of any applicable laws in your area.

 

Me: Why would I [need an ID] for trying to buy cans of air?

ChatGPT: In some cases, retailers may have policies in place to verify the age of customers when purchasing certain products, including cans of compressed air. This is typically done to prevent the misuse of such products, as inhaling compressed air, also known as "huffing" or "dusting," can be dangerous and even fatal.

While it may seem unusual to be asked for identification when purchasing cans of air, especially for legitimate purposes such as cleaning electronics, retailers may implement these policies to ensure compliance with safety guidelines and regulations, as well as to discourage misuse of the product.

Additionally, some retailers may have blanket policies in place for certain categories of products to streamline their operations and ensure consistency in enforcing age verification measures.

If you encounter a situation where you're asked for identification when purchasing cans of air, it's likely because the retailer has implemented such a policy for safety and compliance reasons.

 

Me: Why do people inhale the contents of cans of air? I mean, I would never do it, as I'm afraid of what it would do to my body, but what is the point?

ChatGPT: People may inhale the contents of cans of compressed air, despite the known risks, for various reasons, including seeking a short-lived high or altered state of consciousness. This practice is commonly known as "huffing" or "dusting." The effects of inhaling compressed air can include lightheadedness, dizziness, euphoria, and disorientation.

However, inhaling compressed air is extremely dangerous and can have severe consequences, including:

1. Asphyxiation: Inhaling compressed air can displace oxygen in the lungs and bloodstream, leading to oxygen deprivation and potentially causing unconsciousness or even death.

2. Brain Damage: The chemicals used in compressed air can cause damage to brain cells and lead to long-term cognitive impairments.

3. Organ Damage: Inhaling compressed air can also damage other organs, including the heart, liver, and kidneys, leading to serious health problems.

4. Sudden Death: Huffing compressed air can lead to sudden cardiac arrest or suffocation, resulting in death.

Despite these risks, some individuals may still engage in huffing due to addiction, peer pressure, curiosity, or a lack of awareness about the dangers involved. It's essential to educate individuals about the risks of inhaling compressed air and to discourage this dangerous behavior through awareness campaigns, counseling, and intervention programs.

 

Me: What are alternatives to cans of air that you recommend?

ChatGPT: There are several alternatives to cans of compressed air that are safer and more environmentally friendly for cleaning electronics and other delicate equipment. Here are some options:

1. Microfiber Cloths: Microfiber cloths are soft and gentle on surfaces, making them ideal for wiping away dust and dirt without the need for chemicals or compressed air. They can be washed and reused multiple times, making them cost-effective and eco-friendly.

2. Soft Bristle Brushes: Soft bristle brushes, such as artist brushes or makeup brushes, are effective for sweeping away dust and debris from electronics, keyboards, and other sensitive surfaces. They are gentle enough to use without causing damage and can be cleaned for reuse.

3. Compressed Air Dusters with Eco-Friendly Propellants: Some manufacturers offer compressed air dusters that use eco-friendly propellants, such as compressed air or nitrogen, instead of harmful chemicals. These products provide a safer alternative to traditional compressed air cans while still offering effective dust removal.

4. Handheld Vacuum Cleaners: Handheld vacuum cleaners with small attachments can be used to gently suction away dust and dirt from electronics and other delicate surfaces. Look for models with adjustable suction settings to avoid applying too much force.

5. Electric Air Blowers: Electric air blowers, such as computer dusters or blowers designed specifically for electronics cleaning, use electric power to generate a stream of air for dust removal. They are reusable and more powerful than compressed air cans, making them suitable for heavier cleaning tasks.

By using these alternatives, you can effectively clean electronics and other sensitive equipment while minimizing environmental impact and reducing the risks associated with inhaling compressed air.

 

As with any responses from AI, please fact-check this information.

[JordB]

20 hours ago, peeteer said:

Seeing as the deej was mentioned with Linux-compatibility, I decided to build one with the LTT-Case.

 

Hardware

As Jordan mentioned above, the hole for the USB-C cable can be undersized depending on your Cable. I just sanded it until the Cable I wanted to use fit.

 

For the screws I used some m3x10 self tappers for the smaller screws and m3.5x25 self tappers for the longer ones. In hindsight the longer screws should be m3x20 self tappers, otherwise they might come out the other side.

 

With the microcontroller you really want to solder the contacts to the pcb (or pins if they are already attached). Otherwise your lid will not close.

 

Linux

 

The Linux compatibility works, but requires some additional set-up. It also only uses PulseAudio, meaning you cannot adjust the volume of Pipewire applications (you can but only with the master-volume). The only occasion where this was a problem for me has been Minecraft.

 

Additional setup:

• flashing the SparkFun Pro Micro
  • the pins you want to use are A0, A1, A2, A3 and A6
  • all required information is included in the docs
  • https://learn.sparkfun.com/tutorials/qwiic-pro-micro-usb-c-atmega32u4-hookup-guide
• using the correct serial port
  • You need to define a udev rule so that your microcontroller is always available under the same path. Otherwise the path will change as soon as you unplug/replug or reboot.
    1. get the vendorid and productid of your microcontroller with lsusb
    2.  add a udev rule as described here https://unix.stackexchange.com/questions/66901/how-to-bind-usb-device-under-a-static-name
    3. set the com_port field in the deej config to /dev/my_uart (or whatever you set)

Looks great! Thanks for the insights on the linux side, I haven't had a chance to try that out yet.

[night_tdk]

Hi folks, 
I can't download either of the STLs would someone mind please sharing  

Never mind, works now.

 

[Drvulcanlord]

Im really interested in make a deej combined with something called the free deck https://github.com/FreeYourStream/freedeck-hardware.  It's a open source stream deck. I plan to make it in one big enclosure.