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How do you stop the computer case from giving electrocution

MS-DOS

When I touch the computer case I get a small electrocution buzz thing. I put the DAC and headphone amp on top of the case, so when i touch the Magni 3 to change volume with the knob, i also become electrocuted. How to stop this? I have put a cardboard piece on top of the amp and I still get electrocuted buzz on the fingers.

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This is usually the result of a problem with your electrical outlet grounding (or lack of). Make sure the computer is plugged in to a grounded electrical socket.

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43 minutes ago, Spotty said:

This is usually the result of a problem with your electrical outlet grounding (or lack of). Make sure the computer is plugged in to a grounded electrical socket.

How can I know if its grounded? the sockets that have the 2 metal things?

 

icono-de-enchufe-pared-toma-corriente-il
 

 

My bedroom has none of these, they are flat ones.

 

 

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47 minutes ago, MS-DOS said:

How can I know if its grounded? the sockets that have the 2 metal things?

 

icono-de-enchufe-pared-toma-corriente-il
 

 

My bedroom has none of these, they are flat ones.

 

 

It depends on the country

the us has the ones that look kinda like a face

l    l

  o

the circle is a ground pin. That might not be function or not present (broken off), etc

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21 minutes ago, Helpful Tech Wiard said:

It depends on the country

the us has the ones that look kinda like a face

l    l

  o

the circle is a ground pin. That might not be function or not present (broken off), etc

In eu its the 2 metal pins on top and bottom, mine doesn't have it on my bedroom.

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4 hours ago, MS-DOS said:

In eu its the 2 metal pins on top and bottom, mine doesn't have it on my bedroom.

Yeah, that would be grounded one. Only way to get case grounded it to connect it to something grounded. From case to else, if they have metal or other conductive material, that conducts electricity. You should use rubber rather than cardboard, but I would recommend getting actual electrician to look at things. If you have older building, it might be harder to get proper grounding going on, but at least professional is better able to give you options.

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8 hours ago, MS-DOS said:

When I touch the computer case I get a small electrocution buzz thing. I put the DAC and headphone amp on top of the case, so when i touch the Magni 3 to change volume with the knob, i also become electrocuted. How to stop this? I have put a cardboard piece on top of the amp and I still get electrocuted buzz on the fingers.

You likely appear to have a ground fault in your wiring. You'll need an actual electrician to fix it if it's the outlet.

 

If you're getting zapped, only one of these are true:

1) The power supply is at fault

2) The wall socket is at fault

 

Small zaps, like static, also need a path to ground. So if you're getting large zaps, that's not normal. Small static zaps can sometimes happen if the humidity has changed in the air, but it takes quite a bit of static build up to produce a zap. Where as a ground fault will generally keep zapping you, painfully, because you're completing a circuit by touching the metal of the case, and electricity wants to find the shortest path to ground of least resistance.

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  • 2 weeks later...

I don't think OP means electric shock, but rather the tingling feeling you sometimes get when rubbing over metal cases.

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  • 2 weeks later...
On 3/26/2022 at 6:15 PM, Just that Mario said:

I don't think OP means electric shock, but rather the tingling feeling you sometimes get when rubbing over metal cases.

Yeah it's not a show, its "that buzz". I just can't touch the magni 3 amp because it's made of metal too so I can't change the volume with the knob. I place it on top of the computer.

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On 3/18/2022 at 12:27 PM, Kisai said:

You likely appear to have a ground fault in your wiring. You'll need an actual electrician to fix it if it's the outlet.

 

If you're getting zapped, only one of these are true:

1) The power supply is at fault

2) The wall socket is at fault

 

Small zaps, like static, also need a path to ground. So if you're getting large zaps, that's not normal. Small static zaps can sometimes happen if the humidity has changed in the air, but it takes quite a bit of static build up to produce a zap. Where as a ground fault will generally keep zapping you, painfully, because you're completing a circuit by touching the metal of the case, and electricity wants to find the shortest path to ground of least resistance.

The power supply is a corsair new one, and this happened with previous computer too. My room has no socket to the ground.

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On 3/18/2022 at 9:59 AM, LogicalDrm said:

Yeah, that would be grounded one. Only way to get case grounded it to connect it to something grounded. From case to else, if they have metal or other conductive material, that conducts electricity. You should use rubber rather than cardboard, but I would recommend getting actual electrician to look at things. If you have older building, it might be harder to get proper grounding going on, but at least professional is better able to give you options.

This is a 40+ year old building so im not sure how I would get this done. I will try finding some rubber surface to at least be able to move the knobs on the headphone amp.

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This the third such report in the past 2 weeks. It shows how poorly a lot of the world's house wiring is and the lack of knowledge, ignorance, of users.

 

The picture of the socket, the top and bottom (in the picture) have the earth contacts. The plug should have two pins and a piece of metal up each side or one side on the outside of the plug.

 

In Australia and New Zealand the plugs have angled pins, much like twisting the American ones and an earth pin. Britain has heavy pins and a really thick earth pin.

Here is a list and how things work -

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/AC_power_plugs_and_sockets

 

https://www.worldstandards.eu/electricity/plugs-and-sockets/

Which shows the Type F plug and socket that the OP is using.

 

Doubly insulated equipment will usually only have a two pin plug and the case will be plastic. Metal cased equipment must have an earth connection.

 

As I've said before, the interference suppression capacitors will feed enough AC current to make the case live. There will not be enough to kill you... probably.

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15 hours ago, RollyShed said:

This the third such report in the past 2 weeks. It shows how poorly a lot of the world's house wiring is and the lack of knowledge, ignorance, of users.

 

The picture of the socket, the top and bottom (in the picture) have the earth contacts. The plug should have two pins and a piece of metal up each side or one side on the outside of the plug.

 

In Australia and New Zealand the plugs have angled pins, much like twisting the American ones and an earth pin. Britain has heavy pins and a really thick earth pin.

Here is a list and how things work -

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/AC_power_plugs_and_sockets

 

https://www.worldstandards.eu/electricity/plugs-and-sockets/

Which shows the Type F plug and socket that the OP is using.

 

Doubly insulated equipment will usually only have a two pin plug and the case will be plastic. Metal cased equipment must have an earth connection.

 

As I've said before, the interference suppression capacitors will feed enough AC current to make the case live. There will not be enough to kill you... probably.

I am quite sure it is not an actual electrical issue, but rather that OP builds his own body full of static electricity or something. I have experienced similar thing gently "rubbing" finger over metal case laptops, but it's only for a moment (or it could actually just be vibrations or whatever human fingertips pick up).

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In most buildings, regardless of age, cold water pipes are a source for ground. If this is a house you live in and own you should be able to have an electrician tie ground from electrical the cold water pipe where it enters the building and make a ground path. My home has two grounds, one outside on a metal spike into the earth to ground power coming into the home for some reason and a 2nd ground on the water pipe into the house by the foundation wall in the basement. I believe that the water pipe and metal spike are redundant since one or other other could have a problem but probably not both.

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4 hours ago, Bitter said:

In most buildings, regardless of age, cold water pipes are a source for ground.

Except houses built in the past 20+ years have no metal pipes, they will all be plastic. This is why a properly wired house will have proper earth wiring going to the switchboard and then to earth/ground.

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4 hours ago, Just that Mario said:

I am quite sure it is not an actual electrical issue, but rather that OP builds his own body full of static electricity or something. I have experienced similar thing gently "rubbing" finger over metal case laptops, but it's only for a moment (or it could actually just be vibrations or whatever human fingertips pick up).

No, it is the suppressor capacitors in the power supply connected to the case which should be earthed and isn't.

 

3 hours ago, Caroline said:

 from what I understand OP has C, you can still fit schutzkontakt plugs in them but obviously the ground won't work.

The OP's picture of his socket was F.

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41 minutes ago, RollyShed said:

Except houses built in the past 20+ years have no metal pipes, they will all be plastic. This is why a properly wired house will have proper earth wiring going to the switchboard and then to earth/ground.

My house isn't that old and has metal copper pipes? Also the main line coming in is copper metal. I suspect if they lived in a house built in the last 20 years they would have proper grounding.

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18 minutes ago, Bitter said:

My house isn't that old and has metal copper pipes? Also the main line coming in is copper metal. I suspect if they lived in a house built in the last 20 years they would have proper grounding.

The incoming water piping is plastic here. In countries that take electricity seriously, there will be proper earthing.

The earth wire going away from our meter box to ground is about the size of a finger. The earth cable going from there to the switchboard is a bit thinner but not much.

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17 minutes ago, RollyShed said:

The incoming water piping is plastic here. In countries that take electricity seriously, there will be proper earthing.

The earth wire going away from our meter box to ground is about the size of a finger. The earth cable going from there to the switchboard is a bit thinner but not much.

Eww plastic. I guess my region takes their water and electric more seriously. All my wiring has to be inside conduit or armored cable. No Romex, no open wires. Infact I need to do a 20A circuit around to the other side of my basement for things, I want to wire up 220V but I'm just going to do 120V, I don't gain enough efficiency to make it worth the bother I guess. I'm right near the water pipe so I'll ground the 4 way box right to it for extra safety.

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18 minutes ago, Bitter said:

Eww plastic. I guess my region takes their water and electric more seriously. All my wiring has to be inside conduit or armored cable. No Romex, no open wires. In fact I need to do a 20A circuit around to the other side of my basement for things, I want to wire up 220V but I'm just going to do 120V, I don't gain enough efficiency to make it worth the bother I guess. I'm right near the water pipe so I'll ground the 4 way box right to it for extra safety.

No, the wiring is in a pipe out to the underground source so no individual wires lying around.

 

We don't have 120 volt supply, everything is 230 volts 50 Hz unless you go 3 phase 440 volts.

 

A wiring here has to be done by a registered electrician, no fixed wiring by anyone else.

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1 hour ago, RollyShed said:

No, the wiring is in a pipe out to the underground source so no individual wires lying around.

 

We don't have 120 volt supply, everything is 230 volts 50 Hz unless you go 3 phase 440 volts.

 

A wiring here has to be done by a registered electrician, no fixed wiring by anyone else.

Well TECHNICALLY we're all 240V 2 phase as standard into the house, but we split it into 2x120V single phase with a neutral wire. You can just run the 2 phases over to an outlet and use the correct socket and have a 220V 2 phase.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Split-phase_electric_power

It's a little weird but not that much different I guess? Saving wire and materials really adds up for us since our spans are so large, 1 state of Texas can hold almost 3 Britains inside of it!

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31 minutes ago, Bitter said:

Well TECHNICALLY we're all 240V 2 phase as standard into the house, but we split it into 2x120V single phase with a neutral wire.

In Britain, Australia and New Zealand we are 230 (240) volts per phase. This means phase to neutral (which connects to earth) is a single phase and across 2 phase is 440 volts. Running a higher voltage means lower current for the same power which means less wire thickness, a saving of copper.

Admittedly lower frequency, 50 Hz vs 60 Hz in USA.

 

All houses are wired single phase unless there is some requirement for three phase. Commercial places would be more likely to have 3 phase. Running tools, lathes, big drill presses etc. with 3 phase motors we would have 3 phase available.

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Just saying, sometimes is the socket polarization that is wrong. If the device ground is connected to neutral (which can happen and depends on the manufacturer), and you plug it reversed, you could have live on the entire device surface, which is pretty darn dangerous. Inverting the plug (if it doesn't have a ground pin or the ground isn't properly grounded) or the wires in the socket would solve that.

 

Getting shocks isn't safe and this could cause a fire. I recommend unplugging it and getting an electrician to fix it.

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11 minutes ago, Forbidden Wafer said:

Just saying, sometimes is the socket polarization that is wrong. If the device ground is connected to neutral (which can happen and depends on the manufacturer), and you plug it reversed, you could have live on the entire device surface,

 

What country are you talking about? That certainly can't happen in any place I know of because the phase and neutral into the device do not ever go to the chassis.

 

Manufacturers don't wire things internally that way. It doesn't matter which way round you plug the mains in, it does not connect to the chassis.

 

We're talking whether the earth wire is connected to the metal chassis, not the phase and neutral which go to the internal circuitry, a transformer usually. If a computer power supply they go to a rectifier feeding a high frequency oscillator none of which is connected to the metal chassis. The output of the oscillator through a transformer is connected to the chassis and the voltages are 5 volt and 12 volts and any other lower voltage needed.

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18 hours ago, RollyShed said:

The incoming water piping is plastic here. In countries that take electricity seriously, there will be proper earthing.

The earth wire going away from our meter box to ground is about the size of a finger. The earth cable going from there to the switchboard is a bit thinner but not much.

US and the UK are still in the stone age with their plumbing. Only very known high tech builders in US are aware of PEX and similar piping technologies. Even countries with strictest electricity regulations in EU (Estonia for example), old buildings do not need to adhere to them.

 

18 hours ago, Bitter said:

ww plastic. I guess my region takes their water and electric more seriously. All my wiring has to be inside conduit or armored cable. No Romex, no open wires. Infact I need to do a 20A circuit around to the other side of my basement for things, I want to wire up 220V but I'm just going to do 120V, I don't gain enough efficiency to make it worth the bother I guess. I'm right near the water pipe so I'll ground the 4 way box right to it for extra safety.

This is actually hilariously ignorant.

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