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(proactively) prevent auto/forced upgrade to Windows 11? Recently upgraded platform, don't want 11, leave TPM disabled?

PianoPlayer88Key

Hey so I recently did a minor incremental platform upgrade on my desktop PC, resulting in it now being compatible with Windows 11, at least if I were to enable TPM in UEFI.


But, I'm in no hurry to upgrade to Windows 11, I'm happy enough (not quite "perfectly happy" but it "works") with Windows 10.  (I might want to skip 11 entirely and wait for 12 or 13, or eventually switch to Linux.  Previously I upgraded almost directly from XP to 10 - "almost directly" because I briefly had 7 for several months in the first half of 2015.)

 

If I leave TPM disabled in BIOS, should that prevent M$ from trying to force me to upgrade to 11?
Or, is there a good reason to enable it, and do I not need to worry about it?


(The minor upgrade was i7-4790K -> Ryzen 9 5950X, 32GB DDR3-1600 -> 128GB DDR4-3600 but currently running at 3200 cause 3600 XMP won't POST, ASRock Z97 Extreme6 -> B550 Taichi, Cooler Master Hyper 212 Evo -> Arctic Liquid Freezer II 360.  The other parts were reused for the most part.)




Also my laptop, with an i7-6700K, won't update past Windows 10 1909, the upgrader thinks there's not enough disk space, yet there's upwards of 600-630 GB free on the 1TB SSD it's booting from.  (I did previously clone it from a 250GB SSD that was running out of space, although idk why that would cause an issue if my SSD now has plenty of space.)  My older desktop with a 4790K, as well as my dad's old laptop with a Core 2 Duo T7250, have both updated to 21H1, or maybe 21H2 I forget now.  Any ideas why my 6700K laptop won't update?  (In case it helps diagnosing, a timelapse video is at <link removed by mod> , although I probably need to learn to better focus / expose the camera, it's challenging when I'm starting with a PC that's turned off and afaik can't change the exposure once the time lapse has started shooting...or maybe there's a way to do that on the Panasonic FZ1000...)

Edited by GoodBytes
Removed YouTube video link
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8 minutes ago, PianoPlayer88Key said:

If I leave TPM disabled in BIOS, should that prevent M$ from trying to force me to upgrade to 11?

It should. 

 

8 minutes ago, PianoPlayer88Key said:

Or, is there a good reason to enable it, and do I not need to worry about it?

TPM doesn't really make that much sense to consumers since it's designed to prevent physical attacks on the machine. It's very rare for a consumer to get in a situation where an attacker has physical access to the computer, so unless you're in an environment where that can happen frequently, it's not really that big a deal. It does nothing to prevent software/network attacks, where consumers are actually vulnerable.

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Install windows 10 enterprise LTSC, use the group policy editor to permanently disable windows update, windows defender, etc, and then experience what windows 10 can actually do

 

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15 minutes ago, 8tg said:

Install windows 10 enterprise LTSC, use the group policy editor to permanently disable windows update, windows defender, etc, and then experience what windows 10 can actually do

 

I have 10 Pro, and have losesleep update set to notify before downloading ... I wasn't aware that I could even get enterprise LTSC, I would have liked to do that.  (I'm not one that likes doing major upgrades frequently that require shutting down the system, I'd really like to have uptime measured in multiple years or even decades, or "six or seven nines" of uptime.....)

 

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On 11/24/2021 at 11:02 PM, PianoPlayer88Key said:

Hey so I recently did a minor incremental platform upgrade on my desktop PC, resulting in it now being compatible with Windows 11, at least if I were to enable TPM in UEFI.


But, I'm in no hurry to upgrade to Windows 11, I'm happy enough (not quite "perfectly happy" but it "works") with Windows 10.  (I might want to skip 11 entirely and wait for 12 or 13, or eventually switch to Linux.  Previously I upgraded almost directly from XP to 10 - "almost directly" because I briefly had 7 for several months in the first half of 2015.)

 

If I leave TPM disabled in BIOS, should that prevent M$ from trying to force me to upgrade to 11?

Or, is there a good reason to enable it, and do I not need to worry about it?

Microsoft said that Windows 11 will not be pushed to Windows 10 users. That is at least until end of support of Windows 10 (Oct 2025).

Assuming Microsoft doesn't ignore the TPM requirement by then, yes disabling TPM should prevent Windows 11 from being installed.

 

As for "M$" I can't help you there. If you use pirated software, than you get what you get.

Considering the price of Windows and how many years you use it, and that is ignoring its mass complexity compared to any standard software that the OS can run that costs significantly more. Windows is a truly inexpensive.

 

 

On 11/24/2021 at 11:02 PM, PianoPlayer88Key said:

(The minor upgrade was i7-4790K -> Ryzen 9 5950X, 32GB DDR3-1600 -> 128GB DDR4-3600 but currently running at 3200 cause 3600 XMP won't POST, ASRock Z97 Extreme6 -> B550 Taichi, Cooler Master Hyper 212 Evo -> Arctic Liquid Freezer II 360.  The other parts were reused for the most part.)

"minor"

 

On 11/24/2021 at 11:02 PM, PianoPlayer88Key said:

Also my laptop, with an i7-6700K, won't update past Windows 10 1909, the upgrader thinks there's not enough disk space, yet there's upwards of 600-630 GB free on the 1TB SSD it's booting from.  (I did previously clone it from a 250GB SSD that was running out of space, although idk why that would cause an issue if my SSD now has plenty of space.)

The free space needs to be on the C:\ partition. 

Cloning data from one disk drive to another doesn't feature error correction. And is highly not recommended to do if the drives are not identical, down to the firmware. For different drives, the best approach is to image the old drive and deploy that image to new drive with a smart software that will reconfigure the partition appropriately.

 

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On 11/26/2021 at 8:32 PM, GoodBytes said:

Microsoft said that Windows 11 will not be pushed to Windows 10 users. That is at least until end of support of Windows 10 (Oct 2025).

Assuming Microsoft doesn't ignore the TPM requirement by then, yes disabling TPM should prevent Windows 11 from being installed.

Ah okay, so I guess I don't need to worry about it.

 

On 11/26/2021 at 8:32 PM, GoodBytes said:

 

As for "M$" I can't help you there. If you use pirated software, than you get what you get.

Considering the price of Windows and how many years you use it, and that is ignoring its mass complexity compared to any standard software that the OS can run that costs significantly more. Windows is a truly inexpensive.

Heh ... I did buy a key for my newest PC (5950X, etc).   (I wish I could buy one maybe $150-200 key or something then use it on as many computers as I own for life 😛 )  Also I prefer to spend the vast majority of my computer / tech budget on physical hardware, although I do buy software and games now and then.  (I used to pirate a few things a couple / few decades ago but I haven't done that since the mid-late 2000s or so.)
 

On 11/26/2021 at 8:32 PM, GoodBytes said:

 

"minor"

compared to some of the upgrades I or my family have done in the past 😛  For example…

 

  • Feb 2008 (or Apr 2012 - complicated) to Jan 2015:
    • Athlon 64 X2 4000+ (or Core 2 Duo T7250 - AM2 board died) to i7-4790K
    • 2 GB RAM (3GB after Apr 2009, then 2GB from Apr 2012) to 32GB RAM
  • Jan 1989 to ~Oct 1995:
    • 286-10 (Intel) to AMD (486) DX4-120
    • 640 KB RAM to (probably) 8 MB RAM (but may have been 4 MB)
    • 40 MB MFM/ST-506 HDD to 540 MB or 1.6 GB IDE/PATA HDD
    • Also this upgrade, at least on the CPU/mobo side, was about 1/3 cheaper for the new hardware vs the old.

 

 

I'm not sure what the direct comparison between the 286-10 vs 486DX4-120 CPU performance was (I did look up their MIPS on wikipedia, extrapolating from CPUs actually listed but I"m not sure if there's maybe a better way) but I'm guessing there was an average of 2-2.5x uplift per year in performance/price.

 

Also several years ago, a friend from church retired a PC he had been using in his machining shop, and transferred to a newer PC.  Basically he went from a 386 ... straight to either a Core 2 Duo/Quad, or maybe a Sandy Bridge office PC.  (It was around 2009 to 2011, maybe 2012 or so, when I, bro & dad helped him with that.)

 

 

 

On 11/26/2021 at 8:32 PM, GoodBytes said:

 

The free space needs to be on the C:\ partition. 

Ahh ... it was, though.  (I think I showed This PC open in the timelapse video, but yeah, the quality wasn't very good, mostly cause I exposed the camera for the screen when it was powered off, and then when I powered it on it blew things out.  Also is there a better way I should have posted the video?  I'd prefer not to have to upload to somewhere else - I don't have a vimeo account for example, and I'm pretty sure it's more than 20 MB... also sometime later I might want to post a short video clip doing a rapid scroll through my google photos feed, and ask if anyone has suggestions on how to go about better organizing things on there, as well as some media files on my own PC ... I'm not ready to compose & post that yet though.)  The C:\ right now has .... 610 GB free.

I noticed that system restore wasn't working properly or something, and investigated (this was probably a couple months ago now) and noticed that there was some phantom 😄 (missing) entry, which I think somehow got there during the cloning process when I cloned from the 250GB to the 1TB SSD.

 

On 11/26/2021 at 8:32 PM, GoodBytes said:

Cloning data from one disk drive to another doesn't feature error correction. And is highly not recommended to do if the drives are not identical, down to the firmware. For different drives, the best approach is to image the old drive and deploy that image to new drive with a smart software that will reconfigure the partition appropriately.

 

Ahh ... I hadn't really looked into imaging much, although someone else and I are in a brief discussion on imaging on another thread.  (Basically my question there was how to back up a bunch of smaller SSDs onto a single large HDD, without having a bunch of partitions cluttering up the HDD, being able to boot from the images to test them, and being able to mount the images to read their files in both Windows and Linux.)

I used the Linux "dd" command to do the clone / image ... maybe I should have done something else?  I've had trouble with other methods though (Clonezilla being one, I think, although I thought I had gotten it to work once several years ago...), as in not being able to boot from the copy.  Also right after I copy the drive, if I plug in both at the same time, the OS will complain about a signature collision, so I have to resolve that.  (usually in Windows it's right clicking on the drive in disk management and changing the signature, or UUID or something, I forget now.)

 

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