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I'm doing my first custom loop, do my parts make sense/do I need anything else?

 

I'm planning to put the rad in the frount of the case and use some be quiet fans I already have. I want to add another rad and CPU block later on.

 

Build:

meshify C

7700k

3080 - this one https://www.overclockers.co.uk/palit-geforce-rtx-3080-gaming-pro-oc-10gb-gddr6x-pci-express-graphics-card-gx-05e-pl.html

32GB RAM

3TB SSD

image.thumb.png.91fd9ec762384ebbcaac69fbe4958622.png

 

 

Thanks.

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You have the wrong fittings for your tube size. Your tube is 10/16 and the fittings you have selected is 12/16. Also, you should get yourself a few 90s and 45s just to be safe as custom loops can look good on paper and in your head when planning, but rarely ever go as planned without additional fittings to make the runs work properly. 

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Thanks, they sell these fittings but no tubung the right size 🤔

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If you haven't already, you should consider going with HWlabs rads, which are better than EKs, and Barrow fittings, which are way cheaper. That's what I did. You can see my build in my sig.

BabyBlu (Primary Rig): 

  • CPU: Intel Core i9 9900K @ up to 5.3Ghz, 5.0Ghz all-core
  • Motherboard: Asus Maximus XI Hero
  • RAM: G.Skill Trident Z RGB 4x8GB DDR4-3200 @ 4000Mhz 16-18-18-34
  • GPU: MSI RTX 2080 Sea Hawk EK X, 2070Mhz core, 8000Mhz mem
  • Case: Phanteks Evolv X
  • Storage: XPG SX8200 Pro 2TB NVME, 3x ADATA Ultimate SU800 1TB (RAID 0), Samsung 970 EVO Plus 500GB NVME
  • PSU: Corsair HX1000i
  • Monitor: MSI MPG341CQR 34" 3440x1440 200Hz(OC) Freesync, Dell S2417DG 24" 2560x1440 165Hz Gsync
  • Cooling: Custom water loop (CPU & GPU), Radiators: 1x140mm(Back), 1x280mm(Top), 1x420mm(Front)
  • Keyboard: Corsair Strafe RGB (Cherry MX Brown)
  • Mouse: Corsair Scimitar Elite/MasterMouse MM710
  • Headset: Corsair Void Pro RGB
  • OS: Windows 10 Pro

Roxanne (Wife Build):

  • CPU: Intel Core i7 4790K @ Per Core 5.0Ghz - 5.0Ghz - 4.9Ghz - 4.8Ghz, Cache @ 4.6Ghz, De-lidded
  • Motherboard: Asus Z97A
  • RAM: G.Skill Sniper 4x8GB DDR3-2400 @ 10-12-12-24
  • GPU: EVGA GTX 1080 FTW2 Gaming ICX
  • Case: Corsair Vengeance C70, With Custom Side-Panel Window
  • Storage: Samsung 850 EVO 250GB, Samsung 860 EVO 1TB, Silicon Power A80 1TB NVME
  • PSU: Corsair AX760
  • Monitor: Samsung C27JG56 27" 2560x1440 144Hz Freesync
  • Cooling: Corsair H115i RGB
  • Keyboard: Rosewill RK 9000V2(Cherry MX Blue)
  • Mouse: Glorious Model O-
  • Headset: SteelSeries Arctis 7
  • OS: Windows 10 Pro

BlackBox (HTPC):

  • Intel Pentium G4600 (Kaby Lake)
  • Asus H110T/CSM Thin Mini-ITX
  • G.Skill 1x8GB DDR4-2400 SO-DIMM CL16
  • iGPU
  • Akasa Euler Fanless Solid Aluminum THIN Mini ITX Case (passively cooled)
  • Samsung 850 EVO 250GB
  • External 120W Power Adaptor
  • 4K TV
  • Passively cooled by the Akasa case. No moving parts!
  • Handheld QWERTY keyboard and trackpad.
  • Windows 10 Pro, Kodi autostarts on boot

NAS:

  • Synology DS216J
  • 2x8TB WD Red NAS HDDs in RAID 1. 8TB usable space
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Just now, HairlessMonkeyBoy said:

If you haven't already, you should consider going with HWlabs rads, which are better than EKs, and Barrow fittings, which are way cheaper. That's what I did. You can see my build in my sig.

I'll take a look. thanks.

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9 minutes ago, Skiiwee29 said:

You have the wrong fittings for your tube size. Your tube is 10/16 and the fittings you have selected is 12/16. Also, you should get yourself a few 90s and 45s just to be safe as custom loops can look good on paper and in your head when planning, but rarely ever go as planned without additional fittings to make the runs work properly. 

Not a big problem with soft tubing, which is the better choice for beginners anyway. With soft tubes you can easily get away without any angled fittings whatsoever.

 

Other than that, like @Skiiwee29 said buy the right fittings for your tubing.

 

I also recommend EK's ZMT (Black matte) tubing. I tried the duraclear tubing with ek's "mystic fog" cooling, which doesn't have any color tint. But the clear tubing went brown-ish within 2 weeks. So i switched back to the ZMT, which also looks great combined with EK's torque fittings. Plus like the ZMT says it's Zero-Maintenance-Tubing. The best you can use if you want to keep your loop looking good for longer.

 

If you already have be Quiet fans than noise is likely a big concern to you. In that case stay away from EK's rads. They're optimized for high-rpm / high-pressure fans, which yours are not. I'd strongly recommend the "HW Labs Nemesis GTS 360". They're specifically designed for low noise fans and are much better at cooling with slower fans than EK's rads. I use them myself and the temps/noise levels came out great in my build. (Details in my signature)

Current Specs:

CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 5600X - Motherboard: ASUS ROG Strix B550-E - GPU: PNY RTX 3080 XLR8 Epic-X - RAM: 4x8GB (32GB) G.Skill TridentZ RGB 3600MHz CL16 - PSU: Corsair RMx (2018) 850W - Storage: 500 GB Corsair MP600 (Boot) + 2 TB Sabrent Rocket Q (Storage) - Cooling: EK, HW Labs & Alphacool custom loop - Case: Lian-Li PC O11 Dynamic - Fans: 6x Noctua NF-A12x25 - AMP/DAC: FiiO K5 Pro - OS: Windows 11 preview - Monitor: ASUS ROG Swift PG35VQ - Mouse: Logitech G Pro + Powerplay - Keyboard: Logitech G915 TKL - Headphones: Beyerdynamic Amiron Home - Microphone: Antlion ModMic

 

Temperatures @steady state: Furmark + CinebenchR23 running for 1 hour. Fans @850RPM. Pump @1600RPM.

Water: 37°C

CPU: 73°C

GPU: 54°C

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2 minutes ago, Stahlmann said:

I also recommend EK's ZMT (Black matte) tubing. I tried the duraclear tubing... But the clear tubing went brown-ish within 2 weeks.

I second this. My clear tubes have a yellowish discoloration. It's not super noticeable when the lights are on, but I know it's there.

 

I intend to replace them at some point, and I'll go with something more stable like the ZMT.

BabyBlu (Primary Rig): 

  • CPU: Intel Core i9 9900K @ up to 5.3Ghz, 5.0Ghz all-core
  • Motherboard: Asus Maximus XI Hero
  • RAM: G.Skill Trident Z RGB 4x8GB DDR4-3200 @ 4000Mhz 16-18-18-34
  • GPU: MSI RTX 2080 Sea Hawk EK X, 2070Mhz core, 8000Mhz mem
  • Case: Phanteks Evolv X
  • Storage: XPG SX8200 Pro 2TB NVME, 3x ADATA Ultimate SU800 1TB (RAID 0), Samsung 970 EVO Plus 500GB NVME
  • PSU: Corsair HX1000i
  • Monitor: MSI MPG341CQR 34" 3440x1440 200Hz(OC) Freesync, Dell S2417DG 24" 2560x1440 165Hz Gsync
  • Cooling: Custom water loop (CPU & GPU), Radiators: 1x140mm(Back), 1x280mm(Top), 1x420mm(Front)
  • Keyboard: Corsair Strafe RGB (Cherry MX Brown)
  • Mouse: Corsair Scimitar Elite/MasterMouse MM710
  • Headset: Corsair Void Pro RGB
  • OS: Windows 10 Pro

Roxanne (Wife Build):

  • CPU: Intel Core i7 4790K @ Per Core 5.0Ghz - 5.0Ghz - 4.9Ghz - 4.8Ghz, Cache @ 4.6Ghz, De-lidded
  • Motherboard: Asus Z97A
  • RAM: G.Skill Sniper 4x8GB DDR3-2400 @ 10-12-12-24
  • GPU: EVGA GTX 1080 FTW2 Gaming ICX
  • Case: Corsair Vengeance C70, With Custom Side-Panel Window
  • Storage: Samsung 850 EVO 250GB, Samsung 860 EVO 1TB, Silicon Power A80 1TB NVME
  • PSU: Corsair AX760
  • Monitor: Samsung C27JG56 27" 2560x1440 144Hz Freesync
  • Cooling: Corsair H115i RGB
  • Keyboard: Rosewill RK 9000V2(Cherry MX Blue)
  • Mouse: Glorious Model O-
  • Headset: SteelSeries Arctis 7
  • OS: Windows 10 Pro

BlackBox (HTPC):

  • Intel Pentium G4600 (Kaby Lake)
  • Asus H110T/CSM Thin Mini-ITX
  • G.Skill 1x8GB DDR4-2400 SO-DIMM CL16
  • iGPU
  • Akasa Euler Fanless Solid Aluminum THIN Mini ITX Case (passively cooled)
  • Samsung 850 EVO 250GB
  • External 120W Power Adaptor
  • 4K TV
  • Passively cooled by the Akasa case. No moving parts!
  • Handheld QWERTY keyboard and trackpad.
  • Windows 10 Pro, Kodi autostarts on boot

NAS:

  • Synology DS216J
  • 2x8TB WD Red NAS HDDs in RAID 1. 8TB usable space
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4 minutes ago, Stahlmann said:

Not a big problem with soft tubing, which is the better choice for beginners anyway. With soft tubes you can easily get away without any angled fittings whatsoever.

 

Other than that, like @Skiiwee29 said buy the right fittings for your tubing.

 

I also recommend EK's ZMT (Black matte) tubing. I tried the duraclear tubing with ek's "mystic fog" cooling, which doesn't have any color tint. But the clear tubing went brown-ish within 2 weeks. So i switched back to the ZMT, which also looks great combined with EK's torque fittings. Plus like the ZMT says it's Zero-Maintenance-Tubing. The best you can use if you want to keep your loop looking good for longer.

 

If you already have be Quiet fans than noise is likely a big concern to you. In that case stay away from EK's rads. They're optimized for high-rpm / high-pressure fans, which yours are not. I'd strongly recommend the "HW Labs Nemesis GTS 360". They're specifically designed for low noise fans and are much better at cooling with slower fans than EK's rads.

These ones? What's the difference? Just the tube placement?

https://www.watercoolinguk.co.uk/p/Black-Ice-Nemesis-Radiator-GTS-360-Black_44924.html

https://www.watercoolinguk.co.uk/p/Black-Ice-Nemesis-Radiator-GTS-360-XFlow-Black_44931.html

 

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5 minutes ago, SOBstick said:

The only difference is where your fittings/tubes go. Choose the one that fits into your planned layout. X-Flow ones can be a great addition as a top radiator imo.

Current Specs:

CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 5600X - Motherboard: ASUS ROG Strix B550-E - GPU: PNY RTX 3080 XLR8 Epic-X - RAM: 4x8GB (32GB) G.Skill TridentZ RGB 3600MHz CL16 - PSU: Corsair RMx (2018) 850W - Storage: 500 GB Corsair MP600 (Boot) + 2 TB Sabrent Rocket Q (Storage) - Cooling: EK, HW Labs & Alphacool custom loop - Case: Lian-Li PC O11 Dynamic - Fans: 6x Noctua NF-A12x25 - AMP/DAC: FiiO K5 Pro - OS: Windows 11 preview - Monitor: ASUS ROG Swift PG35VQ - Mouse: Logitech G Pro + Powerplay - Keyboard: Logitech G915 TKL - Headphones: Beyerdynamic Amiron Home - Microphone: Antlion ModMic

 

Temperatures @steady state: Furmark + CinebenchR23 running for 1 hour. Fans @850RPM. Pump @1600RPM.

Water: 37°C

CPU: 73°C

GPU: 54°C

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Are there any specials tools I'll want? Or youtube vids to check before I start the build?

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Also i just noticed you use a meshify c. The only place to fit the res is on the front rad. You'll also need the adapter bracket for that. And check if you have enough clearance in the front with your GPU installed.

Current Specs:

CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 5600X - Motherboard: ASUS ROG Strix B550-E - GPU: PNY RTX 3080 XLR8 Epic-X - RAM: 4x8GB (32GB) G.Skill TridentZ RGB 3600MHz CL16 - PSU: Corsair RMx (2018) 850W - Storage: 500 GB Corsair MP600 (Boot) + 2 TB Sabrent Rocket Q (Storage) - Cooling: EK, HW Labs & Alphacool custom loop - Case: Lian-Li PC O11 Dynamic - Fans: 6x Noctua NF-A12x25 - AMP/DAC: FiiO K5 Pro - OS: Windows 11 preview - Monitor: ASUS ROG Swift PG35VQ - Mouse: Logitech G Pro + Powerplay - Keyboard: Logitech G915 TKL - Headphones: Beyerdynamic Amiron Home - Microphone: Antlion ModMic

 

Temperatures @steady state: Furmark + CinebenchR23 running for 1 hour. Fans @850RPM. Pump @1600RPM.

Water: 37°C

CPU: 73°C

GPU: 54°C

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4 minutes ago, SOBstick said:

Are there any specials tools I'll want? Or youtube vids to check before I start the build?

JayzTwoCents is a great content creator that knows all about water cooling. I'd just watch a few of his builds (as they typically all involve custom loops). In terms of tools i found it useful to have a allen-key set on hand. Otherwise sharp scissors or a tube cutter like this.

 

Also a quick heads-up: Tightening these fittings with ZMT tubing in it sometimes took a lot of force in my build. (To the point where i almost needed a wrench 😄Idk if that's normal but afaik they should be tightened all the way to make sure the tube stays where it should and is properly sealed. Maybe the other guys can comment a bit more on that.

Current Specs:

CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 5600X - Motherboard: ASUS ROG Strix B550-E - GPU: PNY RTX 3080 XLR8 Epic-X - RAM: 4x8GB (32GB) G.Skill TridentZ RGB 3600MHz CL16 - PSU: Corsair RMx (2018) 850W - Storage: 500 GB Corsair MP600 (Boot) + 2 TB Sabrent Rocket Q (Storage) - Cooling: EK, HW Labs & Alphacool custom loop - Case: Lian-Li PC O11 Dynamic - Fans: 6x Noctua NF-A12x25 - AMP/DAC: FiiO K5 Pro - OS: Windows 11 preview - Monitor: ASUS ROG Swift PG35VQ - Mouse: Logitech G Pro + Powerplay - Keyboard: Logitech G915 TKL - Headphones: Beyerdynamic Amiron Home - Microphone: Antlion ModMic

 

Temperatures @steady state: Furmark + CinebenchR23 running for 1 hour. Fans @850RPM. Pump @1600RPM.

Water: 37°C

CPU: 73°C

GPU: 54°C

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7 minutes ago, Stahlmann said:

Also i just noticed you use a meshify c. The only place to fit the res is on the front rad. You'll also need the adapter bracket for that. And check if you have enough clearance in the front with your GPU installed.

Nah, pump/res can also be put horizontally under the GPU on the PSU shroud.

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13 minutes ago, SOBstick said:

Are there any specials tools I'll want? Or youtube vids to check before I start the build?

Jayztwocents old video, emphasis on old videos - his new stuff doesn't fit the bill imo

Der8auer is more recent and does things good imo

 

Drain port is not necessasry for soft tubing, but I would still recommend it. If you have an Asus board you may be interested in getting a 2-pin temperature probe so you can control fans based on fluid temperature.

 

1 L of coolant is probably cutting it close.

 

Either sharp scissors or garden shears are recommended for soft tubing.

 

A means to jump your PSU, if you feel squeamish maybe buy a jumper, but a paper clip works fine too.

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41 minutes ago, SOBstick said:

I still want to go clear tubing for now, I'll fix it later if needs be but how's this?

 

 

 

You think it's worth switching my be quiet fans for these?

https://www.watercoolinguk.co.uk/p/WCUK-Spec-HWL-Black-Ice-Nemesis-GTS360-Black-Radiator-and-Game-Max-Fans-With-Controller-Value-Kit_75664.html

 

Those fans look rubbish dont do it.

 

Other considerations is to get 1 liter of distilled water too, while HWLabs radiators are fairly clean out of the box, its still good practice to wash with hot tap water first, and then give a final rinse with distilled water to remove minerals (Calcium, would be the main one in UK). Waterblocks and pumps are generally clean enough to use directly into the loop. I do not recommend acid cleaning unless you have a problem (i.e. Mayhems Blitz), but with that opaque fluid, you may find you will develop an issue, so you could exercise some foresight and get some for when the opaque fluid inevitably clogs the system.

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tbh avoid duraclear, it has plasticizer that'll leech into your cpu/gpu blocks after some time

i went with 10/16mm EPDM tubing & 2 rads, 60 days now loop still clean

 

use clear coolant on your 1st loop, at least wait about 6 months before u decide to change to opaque fluids

with clear coolant u can see if there's any build up on your blocks

 

i have read too many horror stories on blocks with opaque fluids, u have to drain & dismantle to clean the gunk opaque left behind

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17 hours ago, SOBstick said:

Are there any specials tools I'll want? Or youtube vids to check before I start the build?

 

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