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new ryzen 9 3900x arrived, unexpectedly high idle and load (over 95°C)

Hi, 

my 3900x arrived today.
I'm using it with a corsair h100i v1 from which I'm not expecting too much but not those temps. 
Idle I'm hitting 50..60°C. The second there is any load, that jumps to 80°C. Sustained loads get it over 100°C within 5 minutes. 
The weird thing is that these temps drop the instance I take away the load. I turn my luxmark / blender render off and it drops by 30+ degrees (90°C to 60°C in 2s). 

I'm getting these results while locking the clock to 3800MHz and undervolting to ~1.28V
PBO is disabled since I'm "over"clocking manually.

Is this a hardware problem, improper cooling or something else? 

Edit: Board is a msi x570 a pro, most recent non-beta bios. Windows power profile is "balanced". I checked thermal paste and it's alright. 

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Check mount and check pump for operation.

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Can you feel the pump in the H100i moving?

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Make sure the pump is working by listening to it or feeling it. 

Re seat the cooler. Re apply thermal paste.

Only use hwinfo64 or/ and ryzen master to monitor ryzen temps correctly.

PC: Motherboard: ASUS B550M TUF-Plus, CPU: Ryzen 3 3100, CPU Cooler: Arctic Freezer 34, GPU: GIGABYTE WindForce GTX1650S, RAM: HyperX Fury RGB 2x8GB 3200 CL16, Case, CoolerMaster MB311L ARGB, Boot Drive: 250GB MX500, Game Drive: WD Blue 1TB 7200RPM HDD.

 

Peripherals: GK61 (Optical Gateron Red) with Mistel White/Orange keycaps, Logitech G102 (Purple), BitWit Ensemble Grey Deskpad. 

 

Audio: Logitech G432, Moondrop Starfield, Mic: Razer Siren Mini (White).

 

Phone: Pixel 3a (Purple-ish).

 

Build Log: 

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@ShrimpBrime @Den-Fi The shitty corsair interface reports the pump correctly and changing the cooling profile results in a changed cooling performance (leaf blower mode bottoms out at 98°C, balanced at 101+, quiet makes it a barbecue). As far as I can feel there's vibration at the block but I don't know if that's the fans or the pump. The AIO was working ~10 hours ago on my old system, I only replaced the mobo/cpu/ram. 

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3 minutes ago, 111Kur said:

@ShrimpBrime @Den-Fi The shitty corsair interface reports the pump correctly and changing the cooling profile results in a changed cooling performance (leaf blower mode bottoms out at 98°C, balanced at 101+, quiet makes it a barbecue). As far as I can feel there's vibration at the block but I don't know if that's the fans or the pump. The AIO was working ~10 hours ago on my old system, I only replaced the mobo/cpu/ram. 

Are you using Corsair's software for CPU temp monitoring too? If so, use Ryzen Master or HWiNFO64 instead, as those are the most accurate for Ryzen systems.

Also, I'd really advise you do a fresh install of Windows if you haven't already.

Desktop: Intel Core i9-9900K | ASUS Strix Z390-F | G.Skill Trident Z Neo 2x16GB 3200MHz CL14 | EVGA GeForce RTX 2070 SUPER XC Ultra | Corsair RM650x | Fractal Design Define R6

Laptop: 2018 Apple MacBook Pro 13"  --  i5-8259U | 8GB LPDDR3 | 512GB NVMe

Peripherals: Leopold FC660C w/ Topre Silent 45g | Logitech MX Master 3 & Razer Basilisk X HyperSpeed | HIFIMAN HE400se & iFi ZEN DAC | Audio-Technica AT2020USB+

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My experience with my H100i is that the backplate and mounting screws (screws have extra piece on it that rotates freely) are a problem with correct mounting.  Reach behind the block between the board and the block and see if any of the 4 mounting screws have any wiggle room in the "free moving" portion of the set screw - if it moves its not properly secured, if its rock solid to board then the standoff is on correctly.

Workstation Laptop: Dell Precision 7540, Xeon E-2276M, 32gb DDR4, Quadro T2000 GPU, 4k display

Wifes Rig: ASRock B550m Riptide, Ryzen 5 5600X, Sapphire Nitro+ RX 6700 XT, 16gb (2x8) 3600mhz V-Color Skywalker RAM, ARESGAME AGS 850w PSU, 1tb WD Black SN750, 500gb Crucial m.2, DIYPC MA01-G case

My Rig: ASRock B450m Pro4, Ryzen 5 3600, ARESGAME River 5 CPU cooler, EVGA RTX 2060 KO, 16gb (2x8) 3600mhz TeamGroup T-Force RAM, ARESGAME AGV750w PSU, 1tb WD Black SN750 NVMe Win 10 boot drive, 3tb Hitachi 7200 RPM HDD, Fractal Design Focus G Mini custom painted.  

NVIDIA GeForce RTX 2060 video card benchmark result - AMD Ryzen 5 3600,ASRock B450M Pro4 (3dmark.com)

Daughter 1 Rig: ASrock B450 Pro4, Ryzen 7 1700 @ 4.2ghz all core 1.4vCore, AMD R9 Fury X w/ Swiftech KOMODO waterblock, Custom Loop 2x240mm + 1x120mm radiators in push/pull 16gb (2x8) Patriot Viper CL14 2666mhz RAM, Corsair HX850 PSU, 250gb Samsun 960 EVO NVMe Win 10 boot drive, 500gb Samsung 840 EVO SSD, 512GB TeamGroup MP30 M.2 SATA III SSD, SuperTalent 512gb SATA III SSD, CoolerMaster HAF XM Case. 

https://www.3dmark.com/3dm/37004594?

Daughter 2 Rig: ASUS B350-PRIME ATX, Ryzen 7 1700, Sapphire Nitro+ R9 Fury Tri-X, 16gb (2x8) 3200mhz V-Color Skywalker, ANTEC Earthwatts 750w PSU, MasterLiquid Lite 120 AIO cooler in Push/Pull config as rear exhaust, 250gb Samsung 850 Evo SSD, Patriot Burst 240gb SSD, Cougar MX330-X Case

 

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2 minutes ago, 111Kur said:

@ShrimpBrime @Den-Fi The shitty corsair interface reports the pump correctly and changing the cooling profile results in a changed cooling performance (leaf blower mode bottoms out at 98°C, balanced at 101+, quiet makes it a barbecue). As far as I can feel there's vibration at the block but I don't know if that's the fans or the pump. The AIO was working ~10 hours ago on my old system, I only replaced the mobo/cpu/ram. 

for the love of god stop running the system under load when you see temps of 90+ and remount the block to ensure proper seating.

Make sure as well you took the protective tape off the bottom of the pump if its new, and or that the thermal paste isnt dried out if you didnt reapply the stock paste. That very much sounds like either a bad mount, bad pump, or bad paste. Since you crossed the pump off pretty well then move on to the other two.

Updated 2021 Desktop || 3700x || Asus x570 Tuf Gaming || 32gb Predator 3200mhz || 2080s XC Ultra || MSI 1440p144hz || DT990 + HD660 || GoXLR + ifi Zen Can || Avermedia Livestreamer 513 ||

New Home Dedicated Game Server || Xeon E5 2630Lv3 || 16gb 2333mhz ddr4 ECC || 2tb Sata SSD || 8tb Nas HDD || Radeon 6450 1g display adapter ||

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Just now, Mateyyy said:

Are you using Corsair's software for CPU temp monitoring too? If so, use Ryzen Master or HWiNFO64 instead, as those are the most accurate for Ryzen systems.

Also, I'd really advise you do a fresh install of Windows if you haven't already.

@Mateyyy I got these temps from ryzen master, although I'm now checking through hwinfo, too. 
The corsair software only gives me some temperature somewhere in the block which was always off by sime degree. (it self-reports as 54°C right now but usually rises slowly under load. Coolant maybe.)

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take off your cooler, wipe your cpu and aio with a cleaning rag, then reseat your aio and make sure it is on tight enough. from my experiance with an overclocked r9 3900x these temps are like 10-20 degrees too hot. or, it might be because of summer heat. when it is hot in my home, i experience similar temps

PC specs:

Ryzen 9 3900X overclocked to 4.3-4.4 GHz

Corsair H100i platinum

32 GB Trident Z RGB 3200 MHz 14-14-14-34

RTX 2060

MSI MPG X570 Gaming Edge wifi

NZXT H510

Samsung 860 EVO 500GB

2 TB WD hard drive

Corsair RM 750 Watt

ASUS ROG PG248Q 

Razer Ornata Chroma

Razer Firefly 

Razer Deathadder 2013

Logitech G935 Wireless

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Just now, 111Kur said:

 

As I said 

Re seat the cooler and re apply thermal paste and make sure the pump is working not by checking icue but by listening to it

Is the bios up to date?  

PC: Motherboard: ASUS B550M TUF-Plus, CPU: Ryzen 3 3100, CPU Cooler: Arctic Freezer 34, GPU: GIGABYTE WindForce GTX1650S, RAM: HyperX Fury RGB 2x8GB 3200 CL16, Case, CoolerMaster MB311L ARGB, Boot Drive: 250GB MX500, Game Drive: WD Blue 1TB 7200RPM HDD.

 

Peripherals: GK61 (Optical Gateron Red) with Mistel White/Orange keycaps, Logitech G102 (Purple), BitWit Ensemble Grey Deskpad. 

 

Audio: Logitech G432, Moondrop Starfield, Mic: Razer Siren Mini (White).

 

Phone: Pixel 3a (Purple-ish).

 

Build Log: 

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@Tristerin as far as I can see, the pump is mounted correctly. I did take it off and reseat it just in case before but that didn't change anything. It's not mounted using the 4 screws like the newer versions / Intel versions, but uses the AM4 "clamp" system. I did push the block against the cpu and tighten the screws progressively though to get it as centered / evenly tightened as possible. 
@Atmos this is not a new cooler and I did apply new noctua  NT-H2 paste so I should be good there. As for mounting see above. No obvious errors I could see. 

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Odd my AM4 bracket is the 4 holes, GTX is the V1 version I thought (I have GTX) - guess I was wrong!

Workstation Laptop: Dell Precision 7540, Xeon E-2276M, 32gb DDR4, Quadro T2000 GPU, 4k display

Wifes Rig: ASRock B550m Riptide, Ryzen 5 5600X, Sapphire Nitro+ RX 6700 XT, 16gb (2x8) 3600mhz V-Color Skywalker RAM, ARESGAME AGS 850w PSU, 1tb WD Black SN750, 500gb Crucial m.2, DIYPC MA01-G case

My Rig: ASRock B450m Pro4, Ryzen 5 3600, ARESGAME River 5 CPU cooler, EVGA RTX 2060 KO, 16gb (2x8) 3600mhz TeamGroup T-Force RAM, ARESGAME AGV750w PSU, 1tb WD Black SN750 NVMe Win 10 boot drive, 3tb Hitachi 7200 RPM HDD, Fractal Design Focus G Mini custom painted.  

NVIDIA GeForce RTX 2060 video card benchmark result - AMD Ryzen 5 3600,ASRock B450M Pro4 (3dmark.com)

Daughter 1 Rig: ASrock B450 Pro4, Ryzen 7 1700 @ 4.2ghz all core 1.4vCore, AMD R9 Fury X w/ Swiftech KOMODO waterblock, Custom Loop 2x240mm + 1x120mm radiators in push/pull 16gb (2x8) Patriot Viper CL14 2666mhz RAM, Corsair HX850 PSU, 250gb Samsun 960 EVO NVMe Win 10 boot drive, 500gb Samsung 840 EVO SSD, 512GB TeamGroup MP30 M.2 SATA III SSD, SuperTalent 512gb SATA III SSD, CoolerMaster HAF XM Case. 

https://www.3dmark.com/3dm/37004594?

Daughter 2 Rig: ASUS B350-PRIME ATX, Ryzen 7 1700, Sapphire Nitro+ R9 Fury Tri-X, 16gb (2x8) 3200mhz V-Color Skywalker, ANTEC Earthwatts 750w PSU, MasterLiquid Lite 120 AIO cooler in Push/Pull config as rear exhaust, 250gb Samsung 850 Evo SSD, Patriot Burst 240gb SSD, Cougar MX330-X Case

 

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4 minutes ago, eeeee1 said:

take off your cooler, wipe your cpu and aio with a cleaning rag, then reseat your aio and make sure it is on tight enough. from my experiance with an overclocked r9 3900x these temps are like 10-20 degrees too hot. or, it might be because of summer heat. when it is hot in my home, i experience similar temps

@eeeee1 I have ambient at ~35°C right now, would this be an issue? Shouldn't it still be closer to coolant temp than that? It's not really that useful of a pc if I can't use it in the summer... 
I can't really tighten it further without it being uncomftably hard to move. 
@TofuHaroto did that and I'm fairly certain that the pump is working, although it's hard to check by ear with the fans.
The bios is on the latest non-beta build. 
@Tristerin the older ones had the clip thing. I think it's actually AM3 mount but am4 boards are backwards compatible or something.

All I have left is that there might be buildup in the loop but that would have been noticable before... 
I might try the wraith that came with the CPU for comparison or something... 
Could this in theory be a problem with the motherboard or CPU? 

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1 minute ago, 111Kur said:

I have ambient at ~35°C right now, would this be an issue? Shouldn't it still be closer to coolant temp than that? It's not really that useful of a pc if I can't use it in the summer... 

that is a fine temp. you dont need to tighten the cooler that much.

PC specs:

Ryzen 9 3900X overclocked to 4.3-4.4 GHz

Corsair H100i platinum

32 GB Trident Z RGB 3200 MHz 14-14-14-34

RTX 2060

MSI MPG X570 Gaming Edge wifi

NZXT H510

Samsung 860 EVO 500GB

2 TB WD hard drive

Corsair RM 750 Watt

ASUS ROG PG248Q 

Razer Ornata Chroma

Razer Firefly 

Razer Deathadder 2013

Logitech G935 Wireless

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2 minutes ago, 111Kur said:

Could this in theory be a problem with the motherboard or CPU? 

Nope for the most part.

PC: Motherboard: ASUS B550M TUF-Plus, CPU: Ryzen 3 3100, CPU Cooler: Arctic Freezer 34, GPU: GIGABYTE WindForce GTX1650S, RAM: HyperX Fury RGB 2x8GB 3200 CL16, Case, CoolerMaster MB311L ARGB, Boot Drive: 250GB MX500, Game Drive: WD Blue 1TB 7200RPM HDD.

 

Peripherals: GK61 (Optical Gateron Red) with Mistel White/Orange keycaps, Logitech G102 (Purple), BitWit Ensemble Grey Deskpad. 

 

Audio: Logitech G432, Moondrop Starfield, Mic: Razer Siren Mini (White).

 

Phone: Pixel 3a (Purple-ish).

 

Build Log: 

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2 minutes ago, 111Kur said:

@eeeee1 I have ambient at ~35°C right now, would this be an issue? Shouldn't it still be closer to coolant temp than that? It's not really that useful of a pc if I can't use it in the summer... 
I can't really tighten it further without it being uncomftably hard to move. 
@TofuHaroto did that and I'm fairly certain that the pump is working, although it's hard to check by ear with the fans.
The bios is on the latest non-beta build. 
@Tristerin the older ones had the clip thing. I think it's actually AM3 mount but am4 boards are backwards compatible or something.

All I have left is that there might be buildup in the loop but that would have been noticable before... 
I might try the wraith that came with the CPU for comparison or something... 
Could this in theory be a problem with the motherboard or CPU? 

Try the wraith cooler. 

 

Ryzen 5 1600 - GTX 980 Ti - Broke.

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Just now, eeeee1 said:

that is a fine temp. you dont need to tighten the cooler that much.

(ambient as in the room temperature, the cpu is still at 52°C with chrome and a bunch of diagnostic windows open). 

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Just now, 111Kur said:

(ambient as in the room temperature, the cpu is still at 52°C with chrome and a bunch of diagnostic windows open). 

that temp is fine... you might be asking too much

PC specs:

Ryzen 9 3900X overclocked to 4.3-4.4 GHz

Corsair H100i platinum

32 GB Trident Z RGB 3200 MHz 14-14-14-34

RTX 2060

MSI MPG X570 Gaming Edge wifi

NZXT H510

Samsung 860 EVO 500GB

2 TB WD hard drive

Corsair RM 750 Watt

ASUS ROG PG248Q 

Razer Ornata Chroma

Razer Firefly 

Razer Deathadder 2013

Logitech G935 Wireless

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Next step - You have an air bubble trapped in the CPU block.  Turn pump on full blast and let it run for a while, then pick up the machine and orient it in every direction possible sans the block ever being above the radiator or highest point in the loop to get that air bubble out of the block.

Workstation Laptop: Dell Precision 7540, Xeon E-2276M, 32gb DDR4, Quadro T2000 GPU, 4k display

Wifes Rig: ASRock B550m Riptide, Ryzen 5 5600X, Sapphire Nitro+ RX 6700 XT, 16gb (2x8) 3600mhz V-Color Skywalker RAM, ARESGAME AGS 850w PSU, 1tb WD Black SN750, 500gb Crucial m.2, DIYPC MA01-G case

My Rig: ASRock B450m Pro4, Ryzen 5 3600, ARESGAME River 5 CPU cooler, EVGA RTX 2060 KO, 16gb (2x8) 3600mhz TeamGroup T-Force RAM, ARESGAME AGV750w PSU, 1tb WD Black SN750 NVMe Win 10 boot drive, 3tb Hitachi 7200 RPM HDD, Fractal Design Focus G Mini custom painted.  

NVIDIA GeForce RTX 2060 video card benchmark result - AMD Ryzen 5 3600,ASRock B450M Pro4 (3dmark.com)

Daughter 1 Rig: ASrock B450 Pro4, Ryzen 7 1700 @ 4.2ghz all core 1.4vCore, AMD R9 Fury X w/ Swiftech KOMODO waterblock, Custom Loop 2x240mm + 1x120mm radiators in push/pull 16gb (2x8) Patriot Viper CL14 2666mhz RAM, Corsair HX850 PSU, 250gb Samsun 960 EVO NVMe Win 10 boot drive, 500gb Samsung 840 EVO SSD, 512GB TeamGroup MP30 M.2 SATA III SSD, SuperTalent 512gb SATA III SSD, CoolerMaster HAF XM Case. 

https://www.3dmark.com/3dm/37004594?

Daughter 2 Rig: ASUS B350-PRIME ATX, Ryzen 7 1700, Sapphire Nitro+ R9 Fury Tri-X, 16gb (2x8) 3200mhz V-Color Skywalker, ANTEC Earthwatts 750w PSU, MasterLiquid Lite 120 AIO cooler in Push/Pull config as rear exhaust, 250gb Samsung 850 Evo SSD, Patriot Burst 240gb SSD, Cougar MX330-X Case

 

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1 minute ago, Tristerin said:

Next step - You have an air bubble trapped in the CPU block.  Turn pump on full blast and let it run for a while, then pick up the machine and orient it in every direction possible sans the block ever being above the radiator or highest point in the loop to get that air bubble out of the block.

@Tristerin the pump is at the lowest point of the loop atm, would this still be reasonable? (radiator mounted at the top of the case)

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4 minutes ago, eeeee1 said:

that temp is fine... you might be asking too much

@eeeee1 The thing is that it's 52 at virtually no load. I want to be able to run a render or game in the evening without it triggering thermal runaway or the cpu giving up on me in a year. Would I need to get better/different cooling to get below 95 loaded at 30°C ambient? 

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1 minute ago, 111Kur said:

@eeeee1 The thing is that it's 52 at virtually no load. I want to be able to run a render or game in the evening without it triggering thermal runaway or the cpu giving up on me in a year. Would I need to get better/different cooling to get below 95 loaded at 30°C ambient? 

i use google chrome at like 50-60 degrees and my cpu is fine. to my knowledge i have never gone over 85 even under a cinebench load. you could try raising your fan speeds. mine are adjusted to ramp up faster.

PC specs:

Ryzen 9 3900X overclocked to 4.3-4.4 GHz

Corsair H100i platinum

32 GB Trident Z RGB 3200 MHz 14-14-14-34

RTX 2060

MSI MPG X570 Gaming Edge wifi

NZXT H510

Samsung 860 EVO 500GB

2 TB WD hard drive

Corsair RM 750 Watt

ASUS ROG PG248Q 

Razer Ornata Chroma

Razer Firefly 

Razer Deathadder 2013

Logitech G935 Wireless

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8 minutes ago, 111Kur said:

@Tristerin the pump is at the lowest point of the loop atm, would this still be reasonable? (radiator mounted at the top of the case)

Best place it can be for an AIO.  However doesn't mean its not trapped, which is common.  Since its a V1 I would expect you bought this used or have had it for a while so it may even have more space for air after some slight evaporation in the loop over years.  

 

Put pump on 100%, let it run a while.  This may push the air bubble out itself.  However I have the most, and quickest success, when I run the pump and then pick up the PC and literally go through a sphere of movements without ever putting the block at the highest point and use gravity to assist in removing the bubble

Workstation Laptop: Dell Precision 7540, Xeon E-2276M, 32gb DDR4, Quadro T2000 GPU, 4k display

Wifes Rig: ASRock B550m Riptide, Ryzen 5 5600X, Sapphire Nitro+ RX 6700 XT, 16gb (2x8) 3600mhz V-Color Skywalker RAM, ARESGAME AGS 850w PSU, 1tb WD Black SN750, 500gb Crucial m.2, DIYPC MA01-G case

My Rig: ASRock B450m Pro4, Ryzen 5 3600, ARESGAME River 5 CPU cooler, EVGA RTX 2060 KO, 16gb (2x8) 3600mhz TeamGroup T-Force RAM, ARESGAME AGV750w PSU, 1tb WD Black SN750 NVMe Win 10 boot drive, 3tb Hitachi 7200 RPM HDD, Fractal Design Focus G Mini custom painted.  

NVIDIA GeForce RTX 2060 video card benchmark result - AMD Ryzen 5 3600,ASRock B450M Pro4 (3dmark.com)

Daughter 1 Rig: ASrock B450 Pro4, Ryzen 7 1700 @ 4.2ghz all core 1.4vCore, AMD R9 Fury X w/ Swiftech KOMODO waterblock, Custom Loop 2x240mm + 1x120mm radiators in push/pull 16gb (2x8) Patriot Viper CL14 2666mhz RAM, Corsair HX850 PSU, 250gb Samsun 960 EVO NVMe Win 10 boot drive, 500gb Samsung 840 EVO SSD, 512GB TeamGroup MP30 M.2 SATA III SSD, SuperTalent 512gb SATA III SSD, CoolerMaster HAF XM Case. 

https://www.3dmark.com/3dm/37004594?

Daughter 2 Rig: ASUS B350-PRIME ATX, Ryzen 7 1700, Sapphire Nitro+ R9 Fury Tri-X, 16gb (2x8) 3200mhz V-Color Skywalker, ANTEC Earthwatts 750w PSU, MasterLiquid Lite 120 AIO cooler in Push/Pull config as rear exhaust, 250gb Samsung 850 Evo SSD, Patriot Burst 240gb SSD, Cougar MX330-X Case

 

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47 minutes ago, Tristerin said:

Best place it can be for an AIO.  However doesn't mean its not trapped, which is common.  Since its a V1 I would expect you bought this used or have had it for a while so it may even have more space for air after some slight evaporation in the loop over years.  

 

Put pump on 100%, let it run a while.  This may push the air bubble out itself.  However I have the most, and quickest success, when I run the pump and then pick up the PC and literally go through a sphere of movements without ever putting the block at the highest point and use gravity to assist in removing the bubble

@Tristerin you're right, I bought the AIO when it the hot new thing and RGB was still somewhat cool. 


You were also right with the bubble it seems. Idle temp sat at 45-48°C which is still not great but 100% load started at 70°C and now that it's running for 30min got to 84°C which is OK I guess.  Thanks for the suggestion, I would never have thought to turn my PC weird angles.


A followup question anticipating renders longer than 30min:
What would a better thermal solution be, considering that I might run 100% load for multiple hours? I know a custom loop would achieve this but I think at that price point it would be more viable to rent a commercial render farm...

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