too much power for my breaker box to handle?

[Jstagzsr]

i just finished building my new pc this morning..

i9 9900k @ 5ghz.
32GB ddr4 @3200mhz.
MSI MEG Z390 godlike
MSI gaming X Trio 2080 TI
1000 watt 80+ gold psu. evga supernova
360mm AIO
all rgb set to solid blue for 8 fans (7x120mm + 1x 140mm)
500gb nvme 970 evo boot drive
1tb 860 evo ssd #1
1tb 860 evo ssd#2
1tb hdd #1
1tb hdd #2
500gb hdd
46" 120hz hdr samsung tv as monitor 1 on DP
vertical 23" hp 1080p monitor #2
27" samsung 1080p monitor #3
4x studio monitors
yamaha mg10xu mixer

all that (besides the 2 smaller monitors, mixer, and speakers) plugged into a battery backup psu plugged into wall (duh)

about 10 feet from the plug my psu is plugged into is my son's computer

6 core AMD

16gb ddr3

gtx 970

650 watt 80+ bronze EVGA supernova psu

on a 50" samsung smart tv (1080p) as the monitor
(this was my old computer several computers ago. the thing refuses to die)

So just now i was going into all my games and cranking the settings to see what they looked like, then capping the framerates at 120 fps and turning on vsync and hdr.. i was on "Steam - Doom" and the second i pushed "apply" on the settings crankage, my psu kicked on and my circuit breaker popped and the line went dead (besides my pc which is on a psu)... and this is how i found out both my son's and my computers are on the same line. He is also playing mk11 on max 1080p settings.

So i say all that to set the stage, now my question: Was this a coincidence? or does my pc pull too many amps to play while my son is also playing? this is a brand new apartment building. ive lived here barely a year and i was the first person in this apartment.. aka the power lines are newer. its not shotty wiring.. Ive never experienced this before and dont want to experience it again.. The other thing i was wondering what may have happened.. when i pull max amps, my psu canbt handle it so it kicks on the buzzing that happens when its topping off the batteries from wall power.. could that have tripped the breaker?

Also, is there a way to calculate (or a device i can buy) that can calculate amp draw from the wall?
 

[GDRRiley]

your going to want a bigger UPS if it can't take the load.

that total load is under a 20A and like under a 15A you can buy a killowatt

I'm a little confused is it all plugged in the same UPS?

[Kisai]

2 minutes ago, Jstagzsr said:

i just finished building my new pc this morning..

i9 9900k @ 5ghz.
32GB ddr4 @3200mhz.
MSI MEG Z390 godlike
MSI gaming X Trio 2080 TI
1000 watt 80+ gold psu. evga supernova
360mm AIO
all rgb set to solid blue for 8 fans (7x120mm + 1x 140mm)
500gb nvme 970 evo boot drive
1tb 860 evo ssd #1
1tb 860 evo ssd#2
1tb hdd #1
1tb hdd #2
500gb hdd
46" 120hz hdr samsung tv as monitor 1 on DP
vertical 23" hp 1080p monitor #2
27" samsung 1080p monitor #3
4x studio monitors
yamaha mg10xu mixer

all that (besides the 2 smaller monitors, mixer, and speakers) plugged into a battery backup psu plugged into wall (duh)

about 10 feet from the plug my psu is plugged into is my son's computer

6 core AMD

16gb ddr3

gtx 970

650 watt 80+ bronze EVGA supernova psu

on a 50" samsung smart tv (1080p) as the monitor
(this was my old computer several computers ago. the thing refuses to die)

So just now i was going into all my games and cranking the settings to see what they looked like, then capping the framerates at 120 fps and turning on vsync and hdr.. i was on "Steam - Doom" and the second i pushed "apply" on the settings crankage, my psu kicked on and my circuit breaker popped and the line went dead (besides my pc which is on a psu)... and this is how i found out both my son's and my computers are on the same line. He is also playing mk11 on max 1080p settings.

So i say all that to set the stage, now my question: Was this a coincidence? or does my pc pull too many amps to play while my son is also playing? this is a brand new apartment building. ive lived here barely a year and i was the first person in this apartment.. aka the power lines are newer. its not shotty wiring.. Ive never experienced this before and dont want to experience it again.. The other thing i was wondering what may have happened.. when i pull max amps, my psu canbt handle it so it kicks on the buzzing that happens when its topping off the batteries from wall power.. could that have tripped the breaker?

Also, is there a way to calculate (or a device i can buy) that can calculate amp draw from the wall?
 

DO NOT PLUG TWO DESKTOP PC'S INTO THE SAME UPS. There are enterprise level UPS systems that are designed for powering 2-4 servers using three phase 240V power. That is not what desktop UPS's are designed for. Desktop UPS systems, you are lucky if you can power one mid-tier PC for 2 minutes, if it doesn't kill the UPS the first time it happens.

 

Your UPS should have a kill-a-watt mode on it to tell you the load, and you can max out the load while it's not running on battery to see what it will get pegged at, but if it switches to battery, you'll kill the inverter if it has to switch to it. Even one gaming PC is too much for nearly all UPS systems available.

 

Now with that said, I would recommend simply buying separate UPS systems, and putting one on another circuit entirely, even if that means snaking a 20A extension cord into another room as a temporary work-around (this also isn't recommended since someone might unplug it by accident.) I would recommend just having another circuit wired instead (it may be as simple as running another power conduit to where you want the PC and capping off the other circuit.

 

Desktop UPS systems that work "with" gaming systems typically only offer about 3 minutes of uptime, and that's assuming you don't have anything but the desktop plugged in (no monitors, printers, speakers, accessories, etc) to the battery-backed outlets. That's relying on the serial/usb cable to tell the desktop that the power has been disconnected and to shutdown safely, immediately.

 

Look for the sinewave model of this UPS, this is pretty much the only UPS that "may" work with a gaming system: 

https://www.cyberpowersystems.com/product/ups/pfc-sinewave/cp1500pfclcd/

 

But desktop UPS systems might not work if you have the system going full tilt, as the energy draw might just kill it instead.

[Jstagzsr]

2 minutes ago, Kisai said:

DO NOT PLUG TWO DESKTOP PC'S INTO THE SAME UPS. There are enterprise level UPS systems that are designed for powering 2-4 servers using three phase 240V power. That is not what desktop UPS's are designed for. Desktop UPS systems, you are lucky if you can power one mid-tier PC for 2 minutes, if it doesn't kill the UPS the first time it happens.

 

Your UPS should have a kill-a-watt mode on it to tell you the load, and you can max out the load while it's not running on battery to see what it will get pegged at, but if it switches to battery, you'll kill the inverter if it has to switch to it. Even one gaming PC is too much for nearly all UPS systems available.

 

Now with that said, I would recommend simply buying separate UPS systems, and putting one on another circuit entirely, even if that means snaking a 20A extension cord into another room as a temporary work-around (this also isn't recommended since someone might unplug it by accident.) I would recommend just having another circuit wired instead (it may be as simple as running another power conduit to where you want the PC and capping off the other circuit.

 

Desktop UPS systems that work "with" gaming systems typically only offer about 3 minutes of uptime, and that's assuming you don't have anything but the desktop plugged in (no monitors, printers, speakers, accessories, etc) to the battery-backed outlets. That's relying on the serial/usb cable to tell the desktop that the power has been disconnected and to shutdown safely, immediately.

 

Look for the sinewave model of this UPS, this is pretty much the only UPS that "may" work with a gaming system: 

https://www.cyberpowersystems.com/product/ups/pfc-sinewave/cp1500pfclcd/

 

But desktop UPS systems might not work if you have the system going full tilt, as the energy draw might just kill it instead.

no theres only my pc in this ups. my son's pc is on the same line of power in the breaker box of the house, but not on the same ups. And yeas i am aware i wont get long life if the power goes down. i use my ups as a way to safely shut down my pc in the event of a power outage or power spike. PSU's are also great "circuit breakers". All i need is enough time to end my game and shut it down normally once the power goes out. i dont plan on running gaming marathons on battery power.

And the psu i have came from my buddy who bought a bank and there was like 30 of these things there. So i assume they ARE enterprise level. just nothing too special from the looks of them. its a small little box. as long as my E-atx pc case, but about half the height. and probably about 50 pounds. the thing is shockingly heavy.  "APC Back-UPS Pro 1000".. i couldnt find much info on it onine but it does work as intended.. with this new pc though, im not sure.. It worked just now.. probably 2-3 minutes of battery only-mode while i shut down the game and once on the desktop i had to move a huge shoe rack thats in front of my breaker panel.. (yes i know thats not ideal.. thats where my front entrance is though and its the only place this shelving thing fits over there)..

Ill look into the recommended psu though right now because the last thing i want to do is destroy a $4K computer i wont be able to replace if it dies.

Thank you for the info.

[Jstagzsr]

12 minutes ago, GDRRiley said:

your going to want a bigger UPS if it can't take the load.

that total load is under a 20A and like under a 15A you can buy a killowatt

yeah of coarse ill absolutely get a bigger one if i need to, but thats what im trying to figure out now. partially the reason for this post.. the ups worked fine and functioned 100% perfectly when the power just kicked off.. But i dont want the trip the breaker again if the pc draws too much power.

[GDRRiley]

Just now, Jstagzsr said:

yeah of coarse ill absolutely get a bigger one if i need to, but thats what im trying to figure out now. partially the reason for this post.. the ups worked fine and functioned 100% perfectly when the power just kicked off.. But i dont want the trip the breaker again if the pc draws too much power.

UPS not PSU

it can only support a 600W draw that is way more than your entire system draw especially when you monitors and others.

[Kisai]

2 minutes ago, Jstagzsr said:

no theres only my pc in this ups. my son's pc is on the same line of power in the breaker box of the house, but not on the same ups. And yeas i am aware i wont get long life if the power goes down. i use my ups as a way to safely shut down my pc in the event of a power outage or power spike. PSU's are also great "circuit breakers". All i need is enough time to end my game and shut it down normally once the power goes out. i dont plan on running gaming marathons on battery power.

And the psu i have came from my buddy who bought a bank and there was like 30 of these things there. So i assume they ARE enterprise level. just nothing too special from the looks of them. its a small little box. as long as my E-atx pc case, but about half the height. and probably about 50 pounds. the thing is shockingly heavy.  "APC Back-UPS Pro 1000".. i couldnt find much info on it onine but it does work as intended.. with this new pc though, im not sure.. It worked just now.. probably 2-3 minutes of battery only-mode while i shut down the game and once on the desktop i had to move a huge shoe rack thats in front of my breaker panel.. (yes i know thats not ideal.. thats where my front entrance is though and its the only place this shelving thing fits over there)..

Ill look into the recommended psu though right now because the last thing i want to do is destroy a $4K computer i wont be able to replace if it dies.

Thank you for the info.

I have a Back UPS XS 1300, I killed the inverter on it, and I only have a PC with a 750w PSU in it. It that tells you anything. So your UPS is even smaller and your desktop PC has a larger PSU, and wouldn't be able to handle a switch over since the number on the front of the UPS is the VA, not the wattage. 

 

If you use APC's power calculator you'll actually get recommended all the enterprise kit if you select more than 500 watts.

https://www.apc.com/shop/us/en/tools/ups_selector?

 

 

[Jstagzsr]

4 minutes ago, GDRRiley said:

UPS not PSU

it can only support a 600W draw that is way more than your entire system draw especially when you monitors and others.

i said ups.. uninterruptible power supply.

And the unit has "1000" in the model number so i assume its a 1000 watt ups. where are you seeing 600? id like to go over the page if you found some info on it because i couldnt find anything online about it as far as specs go.

[Jstagzsr]

3 minutes ago, Kisai said:

I have a Back UPS XS 1300, I killed the inverter on it, and I only have a PC with a 750w PSU in it. It that tells you anything. So your UPS is even smaller and your desktop PC has a larger PSU, and wouldn't be able to handle a switch over since the number on the front of the UPS is the VA, not the wattage. 

 

If you use APC's power calculator you'll actually get recommended all the enterprise kit if you select more than 500 watts.

https://www.apc.com/shop/us/en/tools/ups_selector?

 

 

oh ok. that makes sense. yeah im definitely upgrading right now then. that link looks like a nice one. i love the screen on it where you can see the exact time it has left. thats awesome.

[Mr.Meerkat]

What is the current rating on the breaker for the circuit supplying sockets? Chances are, it's completely fine. Here in the UK, the usual breaker used for the circuit feeding mains power is 32 amps, which at 240V mains equates to 7200watts. Plenty of capacity  

[Jstagzsr]

2 minutes ago, Mr.Meerkat said:

What is the current rating on the breaker for the circuit supplying sockets? Chances are, it's completely fine. Here in the UK, the usual breaker used for the circuit feeding mains power is 32 amps, which at 240V mains equates to 7680watts. Plenty of capacity  

im not even sure to be perfectly honest.

[GDRRiley]

2 minutes ago, Mr.Meerkat said:

What is the current rating on the breaker for socket line/circuit? Chances are, it's completely fine. Here in the UK, the usual breaker used for the circuit feeding mains power is 32 amps, which at 240V mains equates to 7680watts. Plenty of capacity  

in the US it is going to be 15 or 20a 120v. some times for special stuff you'll have a 30A or 40A (clothes dryers, hot tubs)

[Jstagzsr]

Just now, GDRRiley said:

in the US it is going to be 15 or 20a 120v. some times for special stuff you'll have a 30A or 40A (clothes dryers, hot tubs)

110v for the normal plugs, 220 for the stoves and dryers and stuff im pretty sure. the amps though i have no idea.

[GDRRiley]

1 minute ago, Jstagzsr said:

110v for the normal plugs, 220 for the stoves and dryers and stuff im pretty sure. the amps though i have no idea.

120V or 240V not 110V and 220V

US standard is 15 but most newer places put in 20A.

[Mr.Meerkat]

6 minutes ago, GDRRiley said:

in the US it is going to be 15 or 20a 120v. some times for special stuff you'll have a 30A or 40A (clothes dryers, hot tubs)

Then assuming 15A@120V, that gives you a capacity of 1800 watts or 2400 watts at 20A (assuming a PF of 1). That sounds extremely low...even the fuses in our plugs (13A, effectively works out to 13A per socket max) gives you 3120watts before it blows itself. Is that 15/20A per socket? If not, it takes almost nothing to trip the breaker...

 

2 minutes ago, GDRRiley said:

120V or 240V not 110V and 220V

US standard is 15 but most newer places put in 20A.

Fun fact, mainland Europe is 220V and the UK is 240V. This means 230VAC only exists so people knows it works for both within the UK and mainland Europe  

[Jstagzsr]

16 minutes ago, Mr.Meerkat said:

Then assuming 15A@120V, that gives you a capacity of 1800 watts or 2400 watts at 20A (assuming a PF of 1). That sounds extremely low...even the fuses in our plugs (13A, effectively works out to 13A per socket max) gives you 3120watts before it blows itself. Is that 15/20A per socket? If not, it takes almost nothing to trip the breaker...

 

Fun fact, mainland Europe is 220V and the UK is 240V. This means 230VAC only exists so people knows it works for both within the UK and mainland Europe  

i dont know about your questions. But i can confirm that its not too hard to pop a breaker.. some places if you run a vaccum and microwave at the same time itll pop.. Here in this building ive only popped it like twice i think and i have a house full of electronics that are all on just about 24/7. lol. so i assume the power is better than some house built in the 20's. But yeah ive seen a bunch of videos about the power in other countries being a lot better. Its weird America has not as powerful power.

 

[GDRRiley]

16 minutes ago, Mr.Meerkat said:

Then assuming 15A@120V, that gives you a capacity of 1800 watts or 2400 watts at 20A (assuming a PF of 1). That sounds extremely low...even the fuses in our plugs (13A, effectively works out to 13A per socket max) gives you 3120watts before it blows itself. Is that 15/20A per socket? If not, it takes almost nothing to trip the breaker...

 

Fun fact, mainland Europe is 220V and the UK is 240V. This means 230VAC only exists so people knows it works for both within the UK and mainland Europe  

no per breaker which can often feed 3-4+ sets outlets(6-12 plugs). There are parts of my older house that has 3 rooms sharing 2 15A circuits. 2 maybe 3 decent rigs is the max you can put on 1 circuit.

 

makes sense

[GDRRiley]

1 minute ago, Jstagzsr said:

But yeah ive seen a bunch of videos about the power in other countries being a lot better. Its weird America has not as powerful power.

 

the US grid was built around basically every room having 1-2 circuits at 15A or 20A with things like kitchens have 4-6 20A. We were originally only really worried about lights and a few small electronics like sowing machines, ect. Most houses in the US date back to 1920-1960.

 

the funny thing is here in the US for a home 100A is normal for an older while 200A is more typical of a newer or larger home but you can get even more or move to 240V

[Kisai]

8 minutes ago, GDRRiley said:

the US grid was built around basically every room having 1-2 circuits at 15A or 20A with things like kitchens have 4-6 20A. We were originally only really worried about lights and a few small electronics like sowing machines, ect. Most houses in the US date back to 1920-1960.

 

the funny thing is here in the US for a home 100A is normal for an older while 200A is more typical of a newer or larger home but you can get even more or move to 240V

In most housing in North America, there is a  240V 100A circuit mains, which is broken into two 120V buses at the breaker panel, which each room is individually wired, depending on what the room is.

 

Bedrooms: 1 circuit, all outlets and lights

Bathrooms: 1 circuit dedicated to the single GFCI, lights may be on the hallway circuit

Kitchens: 1 circuit PER OUTLET

Living room, dining room: Usually share one circuit, inclusive of lights.

 

If a room has been converted from a den into a bedroom or from a den in to a dining room/nook, then it may actually be sharing it's power with the neighboring room, depending on what it was originally. A properly designed house or apartment, will have the 1-room-per-circuit design if it was built after 1980. If something i is popping breakers (typically microwaves, as North American kitchens suck for power configurations, UK/EU systems can support a fast-boiling kettle, NA can not) that's a sign that there is too much on that circuit and you should test what's on that circuit (plug in a regular lamp into every outlet in the room and then flip the breaker and see what goes off.)

 

The maximum load in a NA house independent of the kitchen is 12A. They are usually setup with 15A breakers to allow for things like Vacuum cleaners and power tools to not trip the breaker every time. This is why people get the third degree about "too many things plugged in" when you see various crappy 3-to-1 power splitters and even crappier power strips plugged into yet more power strips. Don't do that. In a temporary use environment you might get away with this, but really, power strips, power splitters, and extension cords are supposed to be temporary. That's all you need is someone or some pet to rip one of these out of the wall and kill the electronics plugged into it when they lose their ground.

 

[GDRRiley]

3 minutes ago, Kisai said:

The maximum load in a NA house independent of the kitchen is 12A. They are usually setup with 15A breakers to allow for things like Vacuum cleaners and power tools to not trip the breaker every time.

that is code but most people now insist on stuff being based around 20A given how tired they are of breakers popping.

 

[Bombastinator]

1 hour ago, Jstagzsr said:

i just finished building my new pc this morning..

i9 9900k @ 5ghz.
32GB ddr4 @3200mhz.
MSI MEG Z390 godlike
MSI gaming X Trio 2080 TI
1000 watt 80+ gold psu. evga supernova
360mm AIO
all rgb set to solid blue for 8 fans (7x120mm + 1x 140mm)
500gb nvme 970 evo boot drive
1tb 860 evo ssd #1
1tb 860 evo ssd#2
1tb hdd #1
1tb hdd #2
500gb hdd
46" 120hz hdr samsung tv as monitor 1 on DP
vertical 23" hp 1080p monitor #2
27" samsung 1080p monitor #3
4x studio monitors
yamaha mg10xu mixer

all that (besides the 2 smaller monitors, mixer, and speakers) plugged into a battery backup psu plugged into wall (duh)

about 10 feet from the plug my psu is plugged into is my son's computer

6 core AMD

16gb ddr3

gtx 970

650 watt 80+ bronze EVGA supernova psu

on a 50" samsung smart tv (1080p) as the monitor
(this was my old computer several computers ago. the thing refuses to die)

So just now i was going into all my games and cranking the settings to see what they looked like, then capping the framerates at 120 fps and turning on vsync and hdr.. i was on "Steam - Doom" and the second i pushed "apply" on the settings crankage, my psu kicked on and my circuit breaker popped and the line went dead (besides my pc which is on a psu)... and this is how i found out both my son's and my computers are on the same line. He is also playing mk11 on max 1080p settings.

So i say all that to set the stage, now my question: Was this a coincidence? or does my pc pull too many amps to play while my son is also playing? this is a brand new apartment building. ive lived here barely a year and i was the first person in this apartment.. aka the power lines are newer. its not shotty wiring.. Ive never experienced this before and dont want to experience it again.. The other thing i was wondering what may have happened.. when i pull max amps, my psu canbt handle it so it kicks on the buzzing that happens when its topping off the batteries from wall power.. could that have tripped the breaker?

Also, is there a way to calculate (or a device i can buy) that can calculate amp draw from the wall?
 

The draw level thing yes.  There are a bunch of them.  It’s kind of like a wall wart.   They’re good for only one wall outlet generally. There’s even an LTT video where they used one.  In the US you can frequently check one out from the local library or your power company will rent them.  Alternately you can just buy one as they’re not that expensive.

[Jstagzsr]

10 minutes ago, Bombastinator said:

The draw level thing yes.  There are a bunch of them.  It’s kind of like a wall wart.   They’re good for only one wall outlet generally. There’s even an LTT video where they used one.  In the US you can frequently check one out from the local library or your power company will rent them.  Alternately you can just buy one as they’re not that expensive.

cool. ty

 

[SuperCloneRanger]

1 hour ago, Jstagzsr said:

It worked just now.. probably 2-3 minutes of battery only-mode

1 hour ago, Jstagzsr said:

the ups worked fine and functioned 100% perfectly when the power just kicked off

I think the UPS is a red herring. OP said when the breaker tripped the UPS did what it was supposed to. I can't see why overloading a UPS would trip the breaker. I have no doubt he's right at the limit of maybe a little over the limit of the UPS. But you have to remember current is pulled, having a 1000w PSU does not mean he's pulling 1000w. also power systems don't instantly break when you reach their limit, overloads and current spikes are common and i'm sure the UPS designers made accommodations for them in their design.

 

@Jstagzsr While i do believe you are at the limits of what your UPS can handle(and if you are able you should replace it with something more suitable), i don't think it's a danger to your PC or is what caused you issue. I have to agree with @Mr.Meerkat i think it was a simple overload, it's nothing to worry about, that's what the protection devices are for. all that equipment(as well as anything else on it) was just too much for the 15-20A circuit to handle.

 

The most immediate solution is to run one of the computer setups(not just the tower, we're trying to split the load) from a separate circuit with an extension. but having a new circuit installed or extending a less crowded circuit to one of the computer setups is advisable.

 

This is only my opinion, I'm also not an electrician(i'm an electrical engineering student). Having rewired my house i am very familiar with the uk electrical code.

 

35 minutes ago, Caroline said:

Despite the walls of text the options to try are very simple

 

1) Try without the UPS

2) Unplug the second computer

 

The english had a ring topology for their wires and that's why they added fuses to each plug, but the americans have different wiring that involves a breaker box.

adds new wall of text. lol. We still have breaker boxes(consumer units) that do the same things, overload, short circuit, earth leakage. and We can run sockets in a line, its called a radial circuit. We also have the best plug design.

[Jstagzsr]

12 minutes ago, SuperCloneRanger said:

I think the UPS is a red herring. OP said when the breaker tripped the UPS did what it was supposed to. I can't see why overloading a UPS would trip the breaker. I have no doubt he's right at the limit of maybe a little over the limit of the UPS. But you have to remember current is pulled, having a 1000w PSU does not mean he's pulling 1000w. also power systems don't instantly break when you reach their limit, overloads and current spikes are common and i'm sure the UPS designers made accommodations for them in their design.

 

@Jstagzsr While i do believe you are at the limits of what your UPS can handle(and if you are able you should replace it with something more suitable), i don't think it's a danger to your PC or is what caused you issue. I have to agree with @Mr.Meerkat i think it was a simple overload, it's nothing to worry about, that's what the protection devices are for. all that equipment(as well as anything else on it) was just too much for the 15-20A circuit to handle.

 

The most immediate solution is to run one of the computer setups(not just the tower, we're trying to split the load) from a separate circuit with an extension. but having a new circuit installed or extending a less crowded circuit to one of the computer setups is advisable.

 

This is only my opinion, I'm also not an electrician(i'm an electrical engineering student). Having rewired my house i am very familiar with the uk electrical code.

 

adds new wall of text. lol. We still have breaker boxes(consumer units) that do the same things, overload, short circuit, earth leakage. and We can run sockets in a line, its called a radial circuit. We also have the best plug design.

cool. thank you for that. I'm less paranoid now that im gonna get a random pop somewhere in the case and everything goes dim permanently. lol.

I did however order a new ups.  CyberPower CP1500PFCLCD
according to everything i saw and read, i agreed with the recommendation and grabbed one. 220$ seems like a decent price to ensure the new pc stays safe.

In the meantime though im glad im not in any serious risk of ruining anything

[SuperCloneRanger]

2 minutes ago, Jstagzsr said:

cool. thank you for that. I'm less paranoid now that im gonna get a random pop somewhere in the case and everything goes dim permanently. lol.

I did however order a new ups.  CyberPower CP1500PFCLCD
according to everything i saw and read, i agreed with the recommendation and grabbed one. 220$ seems like a decent price to ensure the new pc stays safe.

In the meantime though im glad im not in any serious risk of ruining anything

It's definitely the advisable thing to do, You can use the old one on your kids system. Just remember to keep them on separate circuits till you get an electrician to upgrade your wiring.