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Overheating while exporting in Adobe Premiere Pro on My new computer

So, 3 months ago, I purchased a Acer Predator Orion 3000, Previously I used a 2017 iMac with a i5-7600K Processor, Radeon Pro 580 8GB Graphics card with 8 GB RAM with a 2TB fusion drive, also I used to edit my videos on BOOTCAMP Windows 10. My new Computer specs are: i7-9700, RTX 2060 with 6GB, 16 GB RAM, with a pretty cool case with a lot of holes for cooling, the PC is kinda small though. The exporting times on my Old iMac with 20 or 40 Minutes 1440P 60FPS, it took 40 mins to 1 hour 20 Mins, the fans were pretty quiet, and the computer was kinda cool, the clock speed were averaging 3.80GHZ, when the computer was idling, it was siting at 1.1GHZ to 2.8GHZ, while my new computer sits at 4.45GHZ idle Constantly, and the fans aren't as quiet as my old iMac, it takes 16 to 28 mins for my new computer, the clock speed was 3.84GHZ for 20 to 50 mins 1440p 60fps, also the fans didn't auto increase , so I used the Software Predator Sense which came with my PC to manually increase the fan speed (The fans do auto increase when Rendering or anything else), but still the Predator Sense app reported that my CPU temps were going above 85C while my fans are maxed out! So I opened my patio door (-11 Outside), the temps decreased to 76C. I don't really want to do that, plus Spring & Summer is coming up.

 

Here's a screenshot of Predator Sense in idle (Web Browsing) Temps:

Predstor Sense.PNG

Task Manager.PNG

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clock speed is pretty normal and around 40 to 50 idle is normal too , but theres a problem with your cooler

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Just now, Electronics Wizardy said:

Check if speedstep is on in the bios, it should downlock.

 

What cooler does it have? 

 

85c is fine, and won't hurt anything, so I wouldn't worry about it.

 

 

 

85c fine ? never get to this temp and room temp is 30 degrees

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Just now, Electronics Wizardy said:

Check if speedstep is on in the bios, it should downlock.

 

What cooler does it have? 

 

85c is fine, and won't hurt anything, so I wouldn't worry about it.

 

 

 

It down clocks to 3.80GHZ max, and this is a image I found on google which is the exact cooler I have.

Image on Google.PNG

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2 minutes ago, Rxkvn07 said:

85c fine ? never get to this temp and room temp is 30 degrees

depends on the chip, but most intel cpus are 105c for tj max.

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Just now, FLOWER BOI said:

It down clocks to 3.80GHZ max, and this is a image I found on google which is the exact cooler I have.

Image on Google.PNG

That is not a great cooler, id try to replace it. those are way to wimpy for the 9700k.

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Just now, Electronics Wizardy said:

depends on the chip, but most intel cpus are 105c for tj max.

yeah thats the max junction temp but in real life situation there's a problem if u go to 85 degrees if its not a laptop

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2 minutes ago, FLOWER BOI said:

It down clocks to 3.80GHZ max, and this is a image I found on google which is the exact cooler I have.

Image on Google.PNG

stock cooler is absolutly trash , get a better cooler you will be fine

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Just now, Rxkvn07 said:

yeah thats the max junction temp but in real life situation there's a problem if u go to 85 degrees if its not a laptop

Plus, it's with the patio door open (it's literally -11C outside), also I don't know the name of that cooler

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1 minute ago, Rxkvn07 said:

stock cooler is absolutly trash , get a better cooler you will be fine

The Acer Chat reps said it was a Cooler master something mm fan

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Just now, FLOWER BOI said:

The Acer Chat reps said it was a Cooler master something mm fan

its nothing better than a stock cooler , get something better u will be absolutly fine

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Just now, Rxkvn07 said:

its nothing better than a stock cooler , get something better u will be absolutly fine

The Specs they said matches this cooler, and looks the same but there's no sticker

Cooler.PNG

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Just now, FLOWER BOI said:

The Specs they said matches this cooler, and looks the same but there's no sticker

Cooler.PNG

Id get a tower cooler.

 

Does something like a hyper 212 fit? If not, id get a 92mm tower cooler

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1 minute ago, Electronics Wizardy said:

Id get a tower cooler.

 

Does something like a hyper 212 fit? If not, id get a 92mm tower cooler

Do I have to take out the Motherboard? I haven't checked if there is a CPU cutout, but they said there isn't. I also never took out the Motherboard of a PC, the biggest thing I've done to a computer was upgrading the RAM.

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4 minutes ago, FLOWER BOI said:

Do I have to take out the Motherboard? I haven't checked if there is a CPU cutout, but they said there isn't. I also never took out the Motherboard of a PC, the biggest thing I've done to a computer was upgrading the RAM.

Depends on the cooler, but probably.

 

Its really not that hard to remove the board.

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11 minutes ago, Electronics Wizardy said:

Depends on the cooler, but probably.

 

Its really not that hard to remove the board.

Can I slow down the computer a bit to reduce the heat?

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While its not a stock intel cooler, sure as hell looks like they tried hard to make it so.  There is no way that rinky dink aluminum thing is going to tame a 9700.

 

Also set your Windows 10 power plan to Balanced or lower to help with idle stuff.

 

TBH I cant believe that PC was sold with that heat sink.

Workstation Laptop: Dell Precision 7540, Xeon E-2276M, 32gb DDR4, Quadro T2000 GPU, 4k display

Wifes Rig: ASRock B550m Riptide, Ryzen 5 5600X, Sapphire Nitro+ RX 6700 XT, 16gb (2x8) 3600mhz V-Color Skywalker RAM, ARESGAME AGS 850w PSU, 1tb WD Black SN750, 500gb Crucial m.2, DIYPC MA01-G case

My Rig: ASRock B450m Pro4, Ryzen 5 3600, ARESGAME River 5 CPU cooler, EVGA RTX 2060 KO, 16gb (2x8) 3600mhz TeamGroup T-Force RAM, ARESGAME AGV750w PSU, 1tb WD Black SN750 NVMe Win 10 boot drive, 3tb Hitachi 7200 RPM HDD, Fractal Design Focus G Mini custom painted.  

NVIDIA GeForce RTX 2060 video card benchmark result - AMD Ryzen 5 3600,ASRock B450M Pro4 (3dmark.com)

Daughter 1 Rig: ASrock B450 Pro4, Ryzen 7 1700 @ 4.2ghz all core 1.4vCore, AMD R9 Fury X w/ Swiftech KOMODO waterblock, Custom Loop 2x240mm + 1x120mm radiators in push/pull 16gb (2x8) Patriot Viper CL14 2666mhz RAM, Corsair HX850 PSU, 250gb Samsun 960 EVO NVMe Win 10 boot drive, 500gb Samsung 840 EVO SSD, 512GB TeamGroup MP30 M.2 SATA III SSD, SuperTalent 512gb SATA III SSD, CoolerMaster HAF XM Case. 

https://www.3dmark.com/3dm/37004594?

Daughter 2 Rig: ASUS B350-PRIME ATX, Ryzen 7 1700, Sapphire Nitro+ R9 Fury Tri-X, 16gb (2x8) 3200mhz V-Color Skywalker, ANTEC Earthwatts 750w PSU, MasterLiquid Lite 120 AIO cooler in Push/Pull config as rear exhaust, 250gb Samsung 850 Evo SSD, Patriot Burst 240gb SSD, Cougar MX330-X Case

 

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So based on what I see on this PC in that supplied pic - its likely that the standoffs are actually built into the PC case itself (with a lot of these prebuilts) since the cooler doesn't look to have push pins.  It may be problematic as it may not actually have a backplate.  So whatever cooler you get has to be threaded for the motherboard tray (Id disassemble and look before buying a new cooler) or you have to use a Dremel to remove those and add a backplate (have done so before) to the motherboard to put on a aftermarket cooler.

Workstation Laptop: Dell Precision 7540, Xeon E-2276M, 32gb DDR4, Quadro T2000 GPU, 4k display

Wifes Rig: ASRock B550m Riptide, Ryzen 5 5600X, Sapphire Nitro+ RX 6700 XT, 16gb (2x8) 3600mhz V-Color Skywalker RAM, ARESGAME AGS 850w PSU, 1tb WD Black SN750, 500gb Crucial m.2, DIYPC MA01-G case

My Rig: ASRock B450m Pro4, Ryzen 5 3600, ARESGAME River 5 CPU cooler, EVGA RTX 2060 KO, 16gb (2x8) 3600mhz TeamGroup T-Force RAM, ARESGAME AGV750w PSU, 1tb WD Black SN750 NVMe Win 10 boot drive, 3tb Hitachi 7200 RPM HDD, Fractal Design Focus G Mini custom painted.  

NVIDIA GeForce RTX 2060 video card benchmark result - AMD Ryzen 5 3600,ASRock B450M Pro4 (3dmark.com)

Daughter 1 Rig: ASrock B450 Pro4, Ryzen 7 1700 @ 4.2ghz all core 1.4vCore, AMD R9 Fury X w/ Swiftech KOMODO waterblock, Custom Loop 2x240mm + 1x120mm radiators in push/pull 16gb (2x8) Patriot Viper CL14 2666mhz RAM, Corsair HX850 PSU, 250gb Samsun 960 EVO NVMe Win 10 boot drive, 500gb Samsung 840 EVO SSD, 512GB TeamGroup MP30 M.2 SATA III SSD, SuperTalent 512gb SATA III SSD, CoolerMaster HAF XM Case. 

https://www.3dmark.com/3dm/37004594?

Daughter 2 Rig: ASUS B350-PRIME ATX, Ryzen 7 1700, Sapphire Nitro+ R9 Fury Tri-X, 16gb (2x8) 3200mhz V-Color Skywalker, ANTEC Earthwatts 750w PSU, MasterLiquid Lite 120 AIO cooler in Push/Pull config as rear exhaust, 250gb Samsung 850 Evo SSD, Patriot Burst 240gb SSD, Cougar MX330-X Case

 

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4 minutes ago, Tristerin said:

So based on what I see on this PC in that supplied pic - its likely that the standoffs are actually built into the PC case itself (with a lot of these prebuilts) since the cooler doesn't look to have push pins.  It may be problematic as it may not actually have a backplate.  So whatever cooler you get has to be threaded for the motherboard tray (Id disassemble and look before buying a new cooler) or you have to use a Dremel to remove those and add a backplate (have done so before) to the motherboard to put on a aftermarket cooler.

Also, it looks like when they first unveiled this exact PC, they used a different cooler. Which looks like a Cooler Master MASTERAIR G100M, which is probably better.

B.PNG

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acer has so many issues with their desktops I wouldn't buy one.

new cooler is going to need to happen but for now a more aggressive fan should help some

Good luck, Have fun, Build PC, and have a last gen console for use once a year. I should answer most of the time between 9 to 3 PST

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7 minutes ago, FLOWER BOI said:

Also, it looks like when they first unveiled this exact PC, they used a different cooler. Which looks like a Cooler Master MASTERAIR G100M, which is probably better.

 

If that is a vented side panel, that cone is also ensuring ambient air is being used (axial cooler) whereas the cooler on your machine is basically breathing in its own hot air to try to keep that furnace fire of a CPU under it cool.  If you can add more intake and exhaust this will help that cooler.  Even adding a fan using zip ties to that vented side panel intaking air towards the CPU cooler will help.  But not much is going to help the fact that the thermal equilibrium of that cooler is going to be HOT.  Just not enough material to dissipate the heat when under max load.

Workstation Laptop: Dell Precision 7540, Xeon E-2276M, 32gb DDR4, Quadro T2000 GPU, 4k display

Wifes Rig: ASRock B550m Riptide, Ryzen 5 5600X, Sapphire Nitro+ RX 6700 XT, 16gb (2x8) 3600mhz V-Color Skywalker RAM, ARESGAME AGS 850w PSU, 1tb WD Black SN750, 500gb Crucial m.2, DIYPC MA01-G case

My Rig: ASRock B450m Pro4, Ryzen 5 3600, ARESGAME River 5 CPU cooler, EVGA RTX 2060 KO, 16gb (2x8) 3600mhz TeamGroup T-Force RAM, ARESGAME AGV750w PSU, 1tb WD Black SN750 NVMe Win 10 boot drive, 3tb Hitachi 7200 RPM HDD, Fractal Design Focus G Mini custom painted.  

NVIDIA GeForce RTX 2060 video card benchmark result - AMD Ryzen 5 3600,ASRock B450M Pro4 (3dmark.com)

Daughter 1 Rig: ASrock B450 Pro4, Ryzen 7 1700 @ 4.2ghz all core 1.4vCore, AMD R9 Fury X w/ Swiftech KOMODO waterblock, Custom Loop 2x240mm + 1x120mm radiators in push/pull 16gb (2x8) Patriot Viper CL14 2666mhz RAM, Corsair HX850 PSU, 250gb Samsun 960 EVO NVMe Win 10 boot drive, 500gb Samsung 840 EVO SSD, 512GB TeamGroup MP30 M.2 SATA III SSD, SuperTalent 512gb SATA III SSD, CoolerMaster HAF XM Case. 

https://www.3dmark.com/3dm/37004594?

Daughter 2 Rig: ASUS B350-PRIME ATX, Ryzen 7 1700, Sapphire Nitro+ R9 Fury Tri-X, 16gb (2x8) 3200mhz V-Color Skywalker, ANTEC Earthwatts 750w PSU, MasterLiquid Lite 120 AIO cooler in Push/Pull config as rear exhaust, 250gb Samsung 850 Evo SSD, Patriot Burst 240gb SSD, Cougar MX330-X Case

 

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5 minutes ago, Tristerin said:

If that is a vented side panel, that cone is also ensuring ambient air is being used (axial cooler) whereas the cooler on your machine is basically breathing in its own hot air to try to keep that furnace fire of a CPU under it cool.  If you can add more intake and exhaust this will help that cooler.  Even adding a fan using zip ties to that vented side panel intaking air towards the CPU cooler will help.  But not much is going to help the fact that the thermal equilibrium of that cooler is going to be HOT.  Just not enough material to dissipate the heat when under max load.

I have 2 fans, one at the back, and one at the front, they seem to be the Cooler Master Blue LED silent fan 140mm except, the RGB is light blue

Ok PC.PNG

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11 minutes ago, FLOWER BOI said:

I have 2 fans, one at the back, and one at the front, they seem to be the Cooler Master Blue LED silent fan 140mm except, the RGB is light blue

 

Typically prebuilt cases like that have bad airflow, and the proof of this is when you take the side panel off and the temps drop.  Id recommend either RMAing the unit due to not functioning as intended and getting something better at that pricepoint (or build your own better one for less) - or watching some teardown videos of your exact PC and then when you are ready we can recommend some coolers if you give us a budget.

 

Anyhow I read up, missed a post where you asked about downclocking - first look up guides on how to undervolt your CPU through your BIOS.  That may solve some of the problem.

 

 

Workstation Laptop: Dell Precision 7540, Xeon E-2276M, 32gb DDR4, Quadro T2000 GPU, 4k display

Wifes Rig: ASRock B550m Riptide, Ryzen 5 5600X, Sapphire Nitro+ RX 6700 XT, 16gb (2x8) 3600mhz V-Color Skywalker RAM, ARESGAME AGS 850w PSU, 1tb WD Black SN750, 500gb Crucial m.2, DIYPC MA01-G case

My Rig: ASRock B450m Pro4, Ryzen 5 3600, ARESGAME River 5 CPU cooler, EVGA RTX 2060 KO, 16gb (2x8) 3600mhz TeamGroup T-Force RAM, ARESGAME AGV750w PSU, 1tb WD Black SN750 NVMe Win 10 boot drive, 3tb Hitachi 7200 RPM HDD, Fractal Design Focus G Mini custom painted.  

NVIDIA GeForce RTX 2060 video card benchmark result - AMD Ryzen 5 3600,ASRock B450M Pro4 (3dmark.com)

Daughter 1 Rig: ASrock B450 Pro4, Ryzen 7 1700 @ 4.2ghz all core 1.4vCore, AMD R9 Fury X w/ Swiftech KOMODO waterblock, Custom Loop 2x240mm + 1x120mm radiators in push/pull 16gb (2x8) Patriot Viper CL14 2666mhz RAM, Corsair HX850 PSU, 250gb Samsun 960 EVO NVMe Win 10 boot drive, 500gb Samsung 840 EVO SSD, 512GB TeamGroup MP30 M.2 SATA III SSD, SuperTalent 512gb SATA III SSD, CoolerMaster HAF XM Case. 

https://www.3dmark.com/3dm/37004594?

Daughter 2 Rig: ASUS B350-PRIME ATX, Ryzen 7 1700, Sapphire Nitro+ R9 Fury Tri-X, 16gb (2x8) 3200mhz V-Color Skywalker, ANTEC Earthwatts 750w PSU, MasterLiquid Lite 120 AIO cooler in Push/Pull config as rear exhaust, 250gb Samsung 850 Evo SSD, Patriot Burst 240gb SSD, Cougar MX330-X Case

 

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1 hour ago, Tristerin said:

Typically prebuilt cases like that have bad airflow, and the proof of this is when you take the side panel off and the temps drop.  Id recommend either RMAing the unit due to not functioning as intended and getting something better at that pricepoint (or build your own better one for less) - or watching some teardown videos of your exact PC and then when you are ready we can recommend some coolers if you give us a budget.

 

Anyhow I read up, missed a post where you asked about downclocking - first look up guides on how to undervolt your CPU through your BIOS.  That may solve some of the problem.

 

 

I got this PC cheaper than a Custom Built one the same specs because I got it on a very great black Friday Deal. Also, I couldn't really find any tear-down videos on my exact PC except this reviewer who took off the side panel (His PC is older and has a worse Exhaust fan), but I would like to avoid taking apart the Mother Board, also my Budget can go up to 100$ CAD but I prefer under 80$ CAD

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