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8086k strangely hot

RollTime
Go to solution Solved by SenKa,

yeah, thats a bad pump.

 

It can work but work not enough to actually cool properly. Had this issue with an old Corsair AIO I got scammed on off a local seller.

 

Buy a new cooler and enjoy your CPU :)

I have a delidded 8086k, set up with a corsair h110i and two ll140 fans. I'm using IC Diamond 7. I'm not experienced with overclocking, so I'm using the Intel XTU. I've overclocked it to 4.9 GHz. My temps always jump to 99 C very fast in any stress test and it thermal throttles instantly.

The delidding was done by Silicon Lottery, so I'm inclined to trust them to have done it correctly. I did, however, buy the H110i off of ebay, and it doesnt seem to work perfectly with iCue, so I think that could be part of it if the temps aren't normal. I tightened all the mounting screws as tightly as I could with just my fingers.

 

Is this a normal temp when overclocking like this, or is it an issue?

it's time

 

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Whats the voltage?

8086k

aorus pro z390

noctua nh-d15s chromax w black cover

evga 3070 ultra

samsung 128gb, adata swordfish 1tb, wd blue 1tb

seasonic 620w dogballs psu

 

 

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2 minutes ago, mxk. said:

Whats the voltage?

CPU-Z says 1.26v.

it's time

 

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2 minutes ago, RollTime said:

CPU-Z says 1.26v.

Wow, ok. Something seems up with the cooler. Check if the pump is running.

8086k

aorus pro z390

noctua nh-d15s chromax w black cover

evga 3070 ultra

samsung 128gb, adata swordfish 1tb, wd blue 1tb

seasonic 620w dogballs psu

 

 

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Just now, mxk. said:

Wow, ok. Something seems up with the cooler. Check if the pump is running.

I think it is- the block is vibrating slightly.

Honestly, it's used and clearly starting to deteriorate. I just wanted to make sure it wasn't anything else before I shelled out for a new one.

it's time

 

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Just now, schwellmo92 said:

Is the cooler pump running and the fan spinning? Is the radiator setup as intake or exhaust?

Yes, yes, and it's set up as intake.

See my other post, however- I think it's just old, it sometimes makes a strange rattling sound that might be air in the tubes. I think it's time for a new one.

it's time

 

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Just now, RollTime said:

I think it is- the block is vibrating slightly.

Honestly, it's used and clearly starting to deteriorate. I just wanted to make sure it wasn't anything else before I shelled out for a new one.

Try reseating the cooler just in case. It might not be proper contact with the CPU. It happens a lot

8086k

aorus pro z390

noctua nh-d15s chromax w black cover

evga 3070 ultra

samsung 128gb, adata swordfish 1tb, wd blue 1tb

seasonic 620w dogballs psu

 

 

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3 minutes ago, mxk. said:

Try reseating the cooler just in case. It might not be proper contact with the CPU. It happens a lot

I'll do that. One thing, though- it sits at about 40 C idle, so improper mounting seems unlikely. But no harm in trying.

it's time

 

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I bet the pump is blocked, feel the fins on radiator, see if it is hot(just for testing , remove a fan if needed)

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1 minute ago, dgsddfgdfhgs said:

I bet the pump is blocked, feel the fins on radiator, see if it is hot(just for testing , remove a fan if needed)

Good point- I checked and it stays pretty cool. Thanks for the tip.

it's time

 

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2 minutes ago, dgsddfgdfhgs said:

I bet the pump is blocked, feel the fins on radiator, see if it is hot(just for testing , remove a fan if needed)

Like the gurus up top above me said, it is probably your pump.  There is a reason why it was sold to you used.  The guy knew this problem and sold it to you.  sighs

 

You need to get a brand new cooler asap and stop running stress tests because eventually your going to kill the CPU at 100c like that.

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yeah, thats a bad pump.

 

It can work but work not enough to actually cool properly. Had this issue with an old Corsair AIO I got scammed on off a local seller.

 

Buy a new cooler and enjoy your CPU :)

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Just now, SenpaiKaplan said:

yeah, thats a bad pump.

 

It can work but work not enough to actually cool properly. Had this issue with an old Corsair AIO I got scammed on off a local seller.

 

Buy a new cooler and enjoy your CPU :)

Thanks for the help!

it's time

 

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3 minutes ago, Turtle Rig said:

Like the gurus up top above me said, it is probably your pump.  There is a reason why it was sold to you used.  The guy knew this problem and sold it to you.  sighs

 

You need to get a brand new cooler asap and stop running stress tests because eventually your going to kill the CPU at 100c like that.

Curious about urgency- I usually run it at 4.6 and it seems to hover around 70 C in normal workloads. I'm pretty strapped for cash ATM and I don't want to buy another one unless necessary. Do I need to?

it's time

 

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Air cooling it big!

 

Go big or go risk!

 

Buy 1, install it, and forget it until the fan is dying. No pump fail, no leak, no big price tag, no worries..

 

I think my NH-D15 will last for a decade, or maybe even more, depends on the future development of CPU technology with their sockets and TDPs along the way..

I have the cooler's running with the black Chromax fans on, and when they are finally dying, I still have the stock tan-brown fans as backups inside the box untouched and still virgin. So I think I made a fair amount of investment on good CPU cooler, and I've made it to look better with the black covers. Once for a decade! (hopefully) ?

My system specs:

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CPU: Intel Core i7-8700K, 5GHz Delidded LM || CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-C14S w/ NF-A15 & NF-A14 Chromax fans in push-pull cofiguration || Motherboard: MSI Z370i Gaming Pro Carbon AC || RAM: Corsair Vengeance LPX DDR4 2x8Gb 2666 || GPU: EVGA GTX 1060 6Gb FTW2+ DT || Storage: Samsung 860 Evo M.2 SATA SSD 250Gb, 2x 2.5" HDDs 1Tb & 500Gb || ODD: 9mm Slim DVD RW || PSU: Corsair SF600 80+ Platinum || Case: Cougar QBX + 1x Noctua NF-R8 front intake + 2x Noctua NF-F12 iPPC top exhaust + Cougar stock 92mm DC fan rear exhaust || Monitor: ASUS VG248QE || Keyboard: Ducky One 2 Mini Cherry MX Red || Mouse: Logitech G703 || Audio: Corsair HS70 Wireless || Other: XBox One S Controler

My build logs:

 

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1 hour ago, RollTime said:

Honestly, it's used and clearly starting to deteriorate.

And honestly, a used big air cooler still better than a new liquid cooler. I don't hate liquid coolers because they looks great inside PC case, I admire any good custom loop builds, only for the looks. It's just because it's not worth the risk and reliability in the long run.

 

Always prioritize performance over aesthetics, because you'll never go wrong by doing so, and it'll be less complains, less regrets.. Unless, "My cooler looks sooo good, but I have concern about the temps but I see no leaks, please help! But hey! it looks great! So I will keep risking my $$$$ GPU under the flowing liquid with undetected issue with it."

 

I'm not trying to exaggerating this, but I'm inviting to sit on the safe zone for maximizing the money you just spent, like pay for stuff and get the most of good things along with it.

My system specs:

Spoiler

CPU: Intel Core i7-8700K, 5GHz Delidded LM || CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-C14S w/ NF-A15 & NF-A14 Chromax fans in push-pull cofiguration || Motherboard: MSI Z370i Gaming Pro Carbon AC || RAM: Corsair Vengeance LPX DDR4 2x8Gb 2666 || GPU: EVGA GTX 1060 6Gb FTW2+ DT || Storage: Samsung 860 Evo M.2 SATA SSD 250Gb, 2x 2.5" HDDs 1Tb & 500Gb || ODD: 9mm Slim DVD RW || PSU: Corsair SF600 80+ Platinum || Case: Cougar QBX + 1x Noctua NF-R8 front intake + 2x Noctua NF-F12 iPPC top exhaust + Cougar stock 92mm DC fan rear exhaust || Monitor: ASUS VG248QE || Keyboard: Ducky One 2 Mini Cherry MX Red || Mouse: Logitech G703 || Audio: Corsair HS70 Wireless || Other: XBox One S Controler

My build logs:

 

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52 minutes ago, RollTime said:

Curious about urgency- I usually run it at 4.6 and it seems to hover around 70 C in normal workloads. I'm pretty strapped for cash ATM and I don't want to buy another one unless necessary. Do I need to?

If the pump is failing it’ll get worse, if the pump has completely failed I guess you could just lower the voltage and run it like it is if it’s only hitting 70c.

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you said you delided it, install hwinfo 64 and hit it with a load for a few seconds.

See if 2-3 cores are hitting 99c if the others are not then its likely your LM delid either didn't cover all the cores.

Optionally one side is a bit higher if you didnt scrap of all the black sealing or didnt use enough when you covered both sides or it slid a bit.

 

This can happen i get a 3-4c difference on one core with mine, its pretty common but 3-4c on one core isn't a deal breaker.

99c on a core is certainly an issue to take it apart and redo the process.

 

I am running mine pretty hard and its 79c on all cores except one at 81c.

CPU | AMD Ryzen 7 7700X | GPU | ASUS TUF RTX3080 | PSU | Corsair RM850i | RAM 2x16GB X5 6000Mhz CL32 MOTHERBOARD | Asus TUF Gaming X670E-PLUS WIFI | 
STORAGE 
| 2x Samsung Evo 970 256GB NVME  | COOLING 
| Hard Line Custom Loop O11XL Dynamic + EK Distro + EK Velocity  | MONITOR | Samsung G9 Neo

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7 hours ago, Maticks said:

you said you delided it, install hwinfo 64 and hit it with a load for a few seconds.

See if 2-3 cores are hitting 99c if the others are not then its likely your LM delid either didn't cover all the cores.

Optionally one side is a bit higher if you didnt scrap of all the black sealing or didnt use enough when you covered both sides or it slid a bit.

 

This can happen i get a 3-4c difference on one core with mine, its pretty common but 3-4c on one core isn't a deal breaker.

99c on a core is certainly an issue to take it apart and redo the process.

 

I am running mine pretty hard and its 79c on all cores except one at 81c.

I had the delid done by silicon lottery, so I'm inclined to trust it. In any case, I don't have the tools to open it up again. I'll run that test when I get home, however.

it's time

 

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The AIO you bought just checking that you didn't plug in the fan header only which has one wire for pump speed info and pump speed control on that fan header. You have that header set to 100% fan speed

 

Also the sata or molex connector off of the AIO is plugged into a power connector so the pump runs.

It is common for that to be missed.

CPU | AMD Ryzen 7 7700X | GPU | ASUS TUF RTX3080 | PSU | Corsair RM850i | RAM 2x16GB X5 6000Mhz CL32 MOTHERBOARD | Asus TUF Gaming X670E-PLUS WIFI | 
STORAGE 
| 2x Samsung Evo 970 256GB NVME  | COOLING 
| Hard Line Custom Loop O11XL Dynamic + EK Distro + EK Velocity  | MONITOR | Samsung G9 Neo

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6 hours ago, Maticks said:

The AIO you bought just checking that you didn't plug in the fan header only which has one wire for pump speed info and pump speed control on that fan header. You have that header set to 100% fan speed

 

Also the sata or molex connector off of the AIO is plugged into a power connector so the pump runs.

It is common for that to be missed.

The SATA is definitely plugged in.

 

At the moment it's plugged into a fan header since that's what the manual recommended.

it's time

 

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The only other things i can think of is set the Voltage Manual for the CPU don't leave it Auto it can push it higher out of the box when your load spikes on some motherboards.

Load Line Calibration as well if its Default should be fine but if it was a used motherboard it might have been changed.

 

If the Radiator is below the CPU Waterblock you could have a bubble stuck in the pump.

Raise the Radiator above the Waterblock you can try tipping the case so the Radiator is facing up in the air while turning the system on to get the bubble out.

 

If the Radiator is warm then liquid is flowing if one of the pipes are warm and the other is cold then the Pump is not running and DOA.

CPU | AMD Ryzen 7 7700X | GPU | ASUS TUF RTX3080 | PSU | Corsair RM850i | RAM 2x16GB X5 6000Mhz CL32 MOTHERBOARD | Asus TUF Gaming X670E-PLUS WIFI | 
STORAGE 
| 2x Samsung Evo 970 256GB NVME  | COOLING 
| Hard Line Custom Loop O11XL Dynamic + EK Distro + EK Velocity  | MONITOR | Samsung G9 Neo

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