Stevoisboss

http://imgur.com/a/Eek6W46
I remember someone mentioning something about this being worth something in an old post of mine.They said it could be a creative sound blaster 16. Was thinking of selling it for like $30 on ebay but I'm not sure if it is worth anything. 

It's just a simple Labway A311D20 as mentioned by @Mo5. It's not worth much, but it could definitely be useful to someone. I'd sell it for $5 and be glad that someone can put it to good use. 

quick google search shows it's a Labway A311D20 and apart from an user manual I find no other info about it. I don't think you'll get 30$ for that.

My hot take: there's nothing you can do to a set of Bluetooth earbuds to make them worth more than $100. Manufacturers can make all the claims they want, but they're tiny drivers. They can only do so much. I have a pair of Creative Outlier Airs, and they're great. They may not please an audiophile, but if you're an audiophile, you shouldn't be using Bluetooth earbuds.
 
Edit: Shoot. Don't know why I read that as earbuds. Headphones are a different matter. I just picked up some Skullcandy Crusher Evos on Prime Day and they're pretty darn good. You have to like bass, though. Something like the Jabra Elite 85h would be good for a more balanced sound profile. My wife has the Sennheiser HD350BTs and likes them. I've never tried them personally, though.

Try installing Windows on 2.5" SSD, Linux on M.2.  Boot order -- Widows first.
Make sure Linux has ntfs-3g installed (to recognize Winfdows files)
As Sauron asks, which boot loader is in use?
Always install Linux last in a dual-boot.

Anaconda is a different ballgame, as far as booting goes. 
Look at etc/fstab file and double-check the UUIDs for correctness, if applicable. 
Otherwise, look into Anaconda

It's not about whether windows was up to date, it's about whether you updated it after installing Linux. Sometimes windows update breaks things.
 
Try taking out the sata SSD and see if the computer boots

The Ubiquiti ETH-SP-G2 is a good choice for value. And yes, that would be a good suitable ground connection.

Bypass the surge protection. If the link returns to full speed, then yes the surge protection save you from a surge, and is now used up. Surge protection is always a consumable item. That "Joules" rating is the total amount of energy it can absorb over its lifetime, whether used in a single large event or many small ones. There is no "fix" for it, you need to buy a new one. The product did what it was supposed to do.
 
A properly designed surge protector will stop allowing anything through when it is used up. Otherwise you aren't forced to replace it, because its "still working".
 
If you don't want to replace the whole UPS, you can get separate Ethernet Surge Protectors, the annoying part is that they need to be grounded manually, since they aren't built in to a product that has a ground connection anyway. An ungrounded ethernet surge protector actually can't do much to stop surges - I've experienced this first hand.

visit a doctor '-'

I mean, if it concerns you that much sure... go see a doctor, but you're probably fine. The shock didn't hurt but Im sure it still did some damage there if there is residual pain. I'd be more concerned about heart beat. 
 
I've zapped myself a few times in my past and I know that "uncomfortable" feeling lol. Last time was when I was working on an iMac trying to trouble shoot Power no POST. I had the screen off and reconnected it but realized I didn't attach all the sensors so I stupidly reached in behind the screen (it wasn't screwed in yet) and the back of my hand brushed the open PSU. ZAP... but lo and behold, the iMac posted.
 
Charged customer for my time and never told him what the real "fix" was lol.
 
But seriously, if you can and you are worried, better to see the doc to be sure.

Now there are 120mm quiet fans that meet those specs.  The problem is they won’t even near fit the 80mm hole.  If there is room and capacity to cut a much larger hole something might be done. What you’ve sort of got is an 80mm fan that acts a bit like a 120mm case fan through sheer rpm and attitude.  Cost is noise.  If there’s no space for a bigger fan I got no good answers for you.  I suppose it might be possible to build a box onto the end of the thing to hold the larger fan.  It’s going to need even more static pressure though. Maybe some high static pressure 120 made for extra thick radiators or something. Box would be ugly though and make the whole thing bigger.  Also still might not work right. 

Well, it's a Delta afb0812sh-r00 fan, which means you have access to the datasheet and therefore it's specs.
You can actually still buy the model here, where you also can get datasheet and specs : AFB0812SH-R00 Delta Electronics | Fans, Thermal Management | DigiKey
 
So it's a
80x80x25mm fan
46.6 CFM (1.30m³/min)  airflow ,
0.267 in H2O (66.5 Pa)  static pressure
4000rpm
4.08w
40dB noise
 
I feel the static pressure is more relevant than airflow, because the fan probably doesn't have a lot of air vents to suck air through or to push out air from the ups case, so an airflow optimized (ex. case fans) would probably not work well. You'll want to focus on pressure optimized fans, as in those fans that would be used with radiators on water cooling, to push air through the radiator fins.
 
You want to pick a fan that gets as close as possible to those parameters (airflow and pressure) , while having lower noise floor. 
You'll also want to pay attention to datasheet to the  static pressure vs voltage and/or  airflow vs voltage curves - your current fan has 46.6 CFM at 4000 rpm but your UPS most likely doesn't run it 100%, so for example you could potentially get a 6000 rpm fan with 60 CFM and have the UPS run it at 80% speed and be less noisy while getting same end result.
 
On Digikey, you could go and filter by dimensions and then sort by airflow or static pressure and then choose according to your budget and minimum performance levels
Here's a starting point, all 12v dc fans , that are 80mmx80mm (up to you to filter further and remove >25mm thick fans if those would not fit),sorted by price : https://www.digikey.com/short/zbvbr2
 
There's 340 of them.  Here's only 15, 20 and 25mm thick  fans (214): https://www.digikey.com/short/zbvbf8
 
You can sort these by static pressure or airflow and then get something close to the specs of your original fan.
 
For example, something that looks right to me would be these :
 
9GV0812P4J03 Sanyo Denki America Inc. | Fans, Thermal Management | DigiKey
Size / DimensionSquare - 80mm L x 80mm H 25.40mm
Air Flow 60.7 CFM (1.70m³/min)
Static Pressure 0.440 in H2O (109.6 Pa)
Noise46.0dB(A)
Power (Watts)5.6W
RPM 4500 RPM
Termination 4 Wire Leads
 
It's more noisy but that noise level is at 4500 rpm - if the ups adjusts speed, it will be more silent at lower rpm... it's expensive high quality fan
 
Something cheaper yet still very good
PF80251V1-1000U-F99 Sunon Fans | Fans, Thermal Management | DigiKey
 
44.7dB 4800 rpm , same story, will be more silent at lower rpm ... similar airflow and static pressure numbers, much higher than your fan  ... around 12$
 
Something much more silent yet close enough to your specs is this :
OD8025-12HBIP68 Orion Fans | Fans, Thermal Management | DigiKey
33dB , a bit less rpm, a bit less static pressure at 0.230 and 40 CFM which is close enough... more silent though.
 
There's also the lower rpm version of Sanyo Denki San Ace at 31dB ... a bit low on the static pressure but I'd be comfortable using it : 9S0812H4011 Sanyo Denki America Inc. | Fans, Thermal Management | DigiKey
 
These don't come with connector, but you can cut the connector from the old fan and solder or connect the wires to the new fan ...  the colors are standardized or they're easy to figure out ... you have your voltage (12v) , ground (-) and then rpm sensor (optional) and optional pwm input (4th wire) ... again, can just be not connected to anything.
 
 
Last but not least ... keep in mind that when in regular use, the ups will be cool , so it's normal to be 20-30 degrees.
However, the ups will get HOT when it actually does the work, converting 12v from batteries to 110v/230v ... when ac power fails ... so then the fan has to move air and cool the insides.
Also ,same circuitry will produce some heat after that power failure is over topping up the batteries... a process which can take a few hours.
So these are two reasons why you can't just go and buy a low rpm very "silent" fan from newegg and ignore those specs at the rated rpm and all that... when the circuit actually works an undersized fan may "cook" the circuit and reduce its life. In extreme cases, a fan failure may actually cause transformers inside to overheat and trip temperature fuses or other protections. 
 
Probably don't need same values or higher, probably within 10-20% of those specs will be fine. The manufacturer will often reuse a fan for multiple models to get cheaper cost by buying in volume, or maybe they went with that fan for reliability reasons (it's rated 70k hours) and not necessarily for those high specs (though they don't hurt). Just saying you can't just pick a "silent" fan from newegg or amazon and just plant it there, it don't work like that, if you care about the ups and making sure it will still work after a few power failures.
 

Delta fan.  Just because it’s 80mm doesn’t mean it’s low cfm.  There are quiet 80mm fans but they may not blow enough air.  The loudness could be a dying fan bearing or it could be that it just needs a whale of a lot of air so it’s going to be loud.  Looking up the model number https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/delta-electronics/AFB0812SH-F00/603-1054-ND/1014385?utm_adgroup=Fans %26 Thermal Management&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=Dynamic Search&utm_term=&utm_content=Fans %26 Thermal Management&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIttr84Pzo6gIVZQnnCh0WSAdMEAAYASAAEgJ_SfD_BwE
 
it’s a ball bearing fan (so possible loud bearing) that puts out 46.5 cfm which is not low for an 80mm fan.  this low noise fan for example puts out only 25 cfm https://www.newegg.com/silenx-efx-08-12-case-fan/p/N82E16835226033
 
Part of the issue is many fans list cubic meters per second which is not the same scale
 
 

A program that simplifies the usage of Intel Linpack. Linpack by Intel is an extremely stressful program that will put even the most powerful X86/X64 CPU in the world at its knees. Load temp under Linpack will be up to 22*C higher than the competing software Prime95.
Sounds like its made to get your cpu very hot i never used that Programm so i cant tell u if thats normal but 22c higher then my prime test for me would be around 100+ so ehh  

Onboard graphics + a video card that supports 4 monitors. My motherboard can do 3 displays from the Intel CPU + my GTX 1660 Ti can do 4 = 7 total for me.
 
If your motherboard doesn't have enough, then 2 GPUs. I think the cheapest that'll do 4 monitors is a GTX 1660.
 
 

I recommend a card actually made for this purpose by AMD. Nobody knows it but I use it in my lab. I need toooons of readout and scope pictures. https://www.sapphiretech.com/de-de/commercial/gpro-6200-4g-gddr5-pci-e-eyefinity-6-edition
 
The cool thing about it is, that it has 4GB of VRAM and a decent enough GPU to drive everything super smoothly also 6 videos on each screen are no problem for it. It supports DX12 so every windows effect and dsktop will run smooth and have no problems.
 
Real 3D performance: I got Rocketleauge on low lol but that's not what its made for.
 
In my mind this makes more sense than some old quadro. Here you get all the new APIs and decent performance for the use case 
 
My opinion on spilitters: works but was really flaky on my AMD and Video cards I tried it on. Therefore I got myself a 6200. Sometimes you can find used ones for cheap

I second the dual lower end cards if nothing you do actually needs 3D performance.
 
Also if your system has an integrated GPU you could get 1 or 2 displays out of that.

Nvidia geforce GPUs don't support more than 4 displays per card, splitter or no splitter.
If you want a single GPU to do 6+ displays you need an NVS810, an AMD GPU, or a Matrox card.

Quadros with a ton of mini DP can do that (or rather, meant to do that). I think I've seen some with 6-8 outputs? Maybe look around the used market for some old ones.

How about the nvs 810? Its made for this usecase.

It's probably easiest to get 2 simple GPU's that support 3-4 GPU's each. e.g. 2 GTX 1050 cards.
Most cheaper videocards support up to 3 monitor though, so 6 monitors is doable.. But 7 becomes a bit more difficult.
 
The type of device meant for this purpose is a Matrox card though. Not sure if they are still releasing new products though.
 
But splitters are also possible, just be sure to check what kind of splitter they are:
1. the kind that duplicates to multiple screens (shows the same on multiple screens)
2. the kind that will actually make it so the screen work independently from each other.

You can use the ports on a quadro and splitters for the duplicate displays.

Turn 'super fast' to 'normal'.  Your going to be experiencing overshoot ... its basically inverse ghosting caused by having overdrive set to high, the pixels are 'overshooting' their target luminance , this results in a 'bright' ghosting effect (inverse ghosting / overshoot) .
 
This model doesnt have particularly fast pixel response in comparison to more expensive TN panels, but for the price its good enough. Set the overdrive to 'normal' should remove the overshoot whilst maintaining good enough pixel response.
 
https://www.rtings.com/monitor/reviews/dell/s2419hgf
 
In regards to if ghosting can put u at a disadvantage. Yes .
ghosting results in an effective 'blur' ..a reduction to the moving image resolution (clarity).
BUT, 'real' pixel response and ghosting are not the kind of things that are very well known, its an enthusiast thing unfortunately , ull likely find many 'competitive gamers' using rather poor monitors in regards to this.
 
FYI: ignore manufacturer specs in regards to response time, they mean next to nothing.

Is Enhanced Sync turned on? If so, make sure it is turned off -- there have been a lot of issues with that lately on the 5700 [XT] cards and could be related if the 480 is affected also.