MrBrightSyde

This is wrong. Cost of electricity is like 12 cents USD in most US states, though there are a few states with really high electric costs. Using 150w as the power used (using my 2080 as an example), it costs about 50 cents a day. I earn 5 dollars a day on average (after fees) mining ETH using the 2miners pool. My 2080 still has 2 years of warranty, and I only need to mine on it for about 4 and a half months to make back what I paid for it ($620 used).
 
Unless ETH crashs in 4 months (highly doubt it), mining it would be very profitable, and there is low/no chance of really screwing up your GPU since you usually set a power limit that keeps it lower than 70c with fans running at 50%, with only a memory overclock.  Also "lower resale value" is not applicable when you have already mined on it long enough to pay back the card price. Any resale value at that point would be pure profit.

This is wrong. Cost of electricity is like 12 cents USD in most US states, though there are a few states with really high electric costs. Using 150w as the power used (using my 2080 as an example), it costs about 50 cents a day. I earn 5 dollars a day on average (after fees) mining ETH using the 2miners pool. My 2080 still has 2 years of warranty, and I only need to mine on it for about 4 and a half months to make back what I paid for it ($620 used).
 
Unless ETH crashs in 4 months (highly doubt it), mining it would be very profitable, and there is low/no chance of really screwing up your GPU since you usually set a power limit that keeps it lower than 70c with fans running at 50%, with only a memory overclock.  Also "lower resale value" is not applicable when you have already mined on it long enough to pay back the card price. Any resale value at that point would be pure profit.

This is wrong. Cost of electricity is like 12 cents USD in most US states, though there are a few states with really high electric costs. Using 150w as the power used (using my 2080 as an example), it costs about 50 cents a day. I earn 5 dollars a day on average (after fees) mining ETH using the 2miners pool. My 2080 still has 2 years of warranty, and I only need to mine on it for about 4 and a half months to make back what I paid for it ($620 used).
 
Unless ETH crashs in 4 months (highly doubt it), mining it would be very profitable, and there is low/no chance of really screwing up your GPU since you usually set a power limit that keeps it lower than 70c with fans running at 50%, with only a memory overclock.  Also "lower resale value" is not applicable when you have already mined on it long enough to pay back the card price. Any resale value at that point would be pure profit.

If the miner used gives you proper control you can do what ever you want. I’d just make sure the psu is capable of running the two cards with one at reduced power, one card at full and the cpu being utilized. As that’s how it would be while gaming and mining simultaneously. 

When you take into account the cost of electricity and the cost of depreciation and degradation of the components, and the lower resale value or eventual failure, you lose money.

can you just answer my question? I wanna mine bitcoin, not ethereum.
 

If you're misinformed, and people take time to explain things to you, and your response is "I don't give a shit" then people will rapidly conclude it's a waste of time talking to you.
 
You can keep on being ignorant and angry. It isn't going to put a new GPU in your system or anybody else's. 
 
 

But they are rare. That's the entire issue we're discussing. And "collectible" is arbitrary, it just means people have decided to collect it. From an objective functional point of view, an old car is just a car that's probably a lot worse than a modern car. It has value because there's a limited number of them and there are people willing to pay for them. Market forces at work. 
 
 
Says who? God almighty?
 
MSRP serves two purposes: keeping anybody in the supply chain from losing money, and advertising. Beyond that it's meaningless. 

 
 
I don't mine. All the GPU's I own are in my signature. And I am telling you the same thing he is. 

i think you're mistaking what MSRP is
Manufacturer Suggested Retail Price
it is but a guide to tell retailers how much to sell this GPU for, not a price set in stone
 
the actual value, or worth, is determined by the market, or supply and demand.
 
if you're listing your collectible car for $5000, three guys came and auctioned the price to $10000, you aren't going to sell the car at $5000 now would you?
maybe you would, idk

The Thermaltake GF1, though it's very overpriced. Cheapest out of the three, and it's better than the Seasonic, though the PF1 is actually cheaper there than it is in the US.
 

Here's a more budget option: https://pcpartpicker.com/product/3F2rxr/corsair-cx-2017-650w-80-bronze-certified-atx-power-supply-cp-9020122-na
 
The Seasonic Focus Gold 750w for $104 is not a bad deal though.

When is it used for "750W or higher" here...?

Without knowing the specs, it's kind of hard to recommend a PSU, but if the nephew is using a low budget build, and going by the price point you are looking at, something like the Apevia Prestige 600w is 54.99 on Amazon. Has a noisy fan though, and personally, I would recommend spending the $15 more for a 550w Corsair CX since it's better quality, and the customer service is pretty good.
 
 

PCPartPicker Part List
Power Supply: SeaSonic FOCUS Gold 750 W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-modular ATX Power Supply  ($103.95 @ Amazon)
Total: $103.95
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2021-01-28 19:29 EST-0500

Model>Brand 
Do not reccomend a model based off your opinion for a brand please. Like would you reccomend VW Jetta because you like Lamborghini, and VW owns Lamborghini? 

@seon123  Exactly... PSU snob.

EVGA doesn't make any PSUs, and their entire lineup is a mess. They have absolute garbage units rated at 25C and 30C, and group regulated ones. Just because you have no idea how to judge if a PSU is good or not, doesn't mean that they are good. Please have the decency to not spew absolute BS about things that you know nothing about 🙂
It has the bare minimum of DC-DC, but it's rated at 30C, and has a sleeve bearing fan. You should get a lower wattage, higher end PSU instead. If you have a 980 that only has a single PCIe connector, you could get the CX450 for $55, assuming you're buying from the US.

This part means literally nothing. 50C is scalding to the human body, so using touch to determine heat is literally worthless when it comes to PC parts since most parts run at higher temps. Same with the PSU. It's rated to run at 40C (for full wattage). 40C is pretty hot to the human body.
 
You most likely aren't pushing the unit to the point it needs to actually spin up the fan. It'll start using the fan to actively cool the PSU when the PSU needs it to. As you can see in this 2600 review (with a 1080Ti in the test setup), Cinebench doesn't really push the system wattage that much (only around 150w). Even in gaming it only pushes less than 400w altogether (1080Ti and 5700xt actually have similar power draw).
 
Basically, your PSU is fine.
 
 

This part means literally nothing. 50C is scalding to the human body, so using touch to determine heat is literally worthless when it comes to PC parts since most parts run at higher temps. Same with the PSU. It's rated to run at 40C (for full wattage). 40C is pretty hot to the human body.
 
You most likely aren't pushing the unit to the point it needs to actually spin up the fan. It'll start using the fan to actively cool the PSU when the PSU needs it to. As you can see in this 2600 review (with a 1080Ti in the test setup), Cinebench doesn't really push the system wattage that much (only around 150w). Even in gaming it only pushes less than 400w altogether (1080Ti and 5700xt actually have similar power draw).
 
Basically, your PSU is fine.
 
 

I think I'll go with the ThermalTake one because it's the same price as the one I already have, thanks so much for your help btw

So no, it's Tier D

Check the spreadsheet
 
P550B is double-forward group-reg, like all the other PSUs in Tier D basically
The 650 is better since it's using DC-DC

All are Tier D, so....neither?

...isn't that the EVGA W1, as shown in the model number(100-W1-0700-K).
Here's a review on the 500w version (can't find 700w reviews)