LemonSpice

@Ashy2874
I mean, these days it's really hard to buy a really crap SSD. That was in early days with first JMicron controllers. And a bit later with DAM-less drives which seem to be hard to come by as well unless you look at really tiny drives for few bucks. As soon as you look at 1TB drives and beyond, they are all decent enough. Most are driven by SiliconMotion controllers and NAND from some big player like Micron. Even cheapest Chinese drives like Goldenfir and the likes do this.
 
Lets say Samsung is more of a no compromise choice where others may have certain asterisks. Any SSD is better than any HDD so if you just need something that's faster than HDD, but you don't care much beyond that, then it's ok I guess. And PNY, ADATA, WD and Sandisk aren't some no names so there's that too.

Not a lot of performance reviews available but I've found these two.
XG7 on Igor's LAB (German)
https://www.igorslab.de/corsair-hydro-x-xg7-gpu-wasserblock-gegen-eine-geforce-rtx-2080-ti-mit-380-watt-einstand-gelungen/2/
 
XC9 on Techpowerup
https://www.techpowerup.com/review/corsair-hydro-x-series-xc9-rgb-cpu-water-block/

Depends on the resolution of course. But at 1440p it will easily play games for 3 or even more years.

About 7 more minutes...

Just done a quick test.
 
I always played on epic settings,  averaged 150fps  no OC.
 
Saw a video about a week ago on how turning off shadows makes it easier to see enemies,  it's true, it also bumped the fps to 230-250 so since then i've been using no shadows.
Just loaded up Fortnite to check the framrate with shadows on epic again, averaging 120 now so down from 150....  20% drop.
 
Somethings going on for sure.

https://www.google.com/search?q=Fortnite+texture+issues+since+update&source=lnt&tbs=qdr:w&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwi9t5b1q7zcAhVEI8AKHSBiD_EQpwUIIQ&biw=1920&bih=947

Bad day for 780's. What were you doing before the problem did you drop you rpc take the card out or were just using it as normal.

"i promise i am wearing the boat strap its on my ankle"

yes more gpus can accelerate depending on the editing/ rendering program i would get a cuda mod for them as you can ue that on geforce cards and it speeds it up a decent bit

ISPs in america=stupid shit= raging americans=NSA=fcc=potato=obama=washington=illuminati confirmed=gaben=halflife3

nikon d5500
NIKON D7100
CANNON 7DMKII

I've seen several radiator configs in H440s, but I think the ones that look less cluttered use no more than a 360mm + 240mm.
You can fit dual 360mm radiators, but it seems to be tricky to work with; if you really want to work in there, go ahead. You can also use 280mm ones, but that does take more space and clearance is reduced.
I'd go with a front 360mm rad and a top 240mm. A good looking multi-port tube res, a D5 pump, Primochill's PETG tubbing and Primochill rigid compression fittings. Look for what blocks are more aesthetically pleasing to you, the temperature results between them don't very that much.

The M3

 
Its a beautiful camera and I love the weight and feel of it.  It is made of brass, which will show over time and use.  I have the double stroke version and the film advance is butter smooth.  I mention above that when I shoot my 35mm lens, I just use the whole viewfinder as my framelines.  The viewfinder is amazingly bright and I do find focusing to be relatively easy.  I've never had an issue loading film, but my M3 may have the loading upgraded (M4 version?). The M3 has no meter and I don't trust myself to read the light properly so I either use a handheld meter or use the voigtlander VC meter II pictured above/below.  Its very accurate and very easy to use.
 

 

 
 
The M6
 

 
The M6 is not made of brass but is still has a solid weight and feel.  My viewfinder is the 0.85× version and has these framelines: (35-135, 50-75, 90).  The film advance is nice and smooth but the M3 feels nicer (in my opinion).  Focusing is easy and the viewfinder is bright.  Loading is a breeze, but that may be due to experience with these cameras.  The light meter is fairly accurate.
 

 
 
If you asked me which one I would keep if I had to choose....  I would have a very hard time deciding.   I would probably keep the M3 as I love the feel and I have other ways of meter the light when I need to nail the exposure.  That said, the M6 is a great camera which I would be hard pressed to sell or get rid of.  Good luck on your search of an M camera and keep us updated on which one you get.  Have you considered an M5?  They tend to go a bit cheaper then the other M cameras.  Or a Voigtlander Bessa RM3 or RM2?  They are a lot more affordable than Leicas and can take M mount lens.

I have a M3 and a M6. On the M3, when I want to shoot my Voigtlander 35mm 1.4, I just use the whole viewfinder. That seems to work for me.
That said, I've always wanted a black paint M2....

for strictly gaming, i5 and 970.
for productivity, or streaming, i7 and 290

4690k 970
 
a 4790k doesn't provide much improvement gaming wise

All new 8k display the most retina display we have ever made* 
Scaled to 1440p

All new 8k display the most retina display we have ever made* 
Scaled to 1440p

I would wait for Apple to announce it before going nuts.

not for you maybe, but some mornings I stand in front of my microwave wondering why windows is taking longer than usual to boot up.  :unsure:

All new 8k display the most retina display we have ever made* 
Scaled to 1440p

All new 8k display the most retina display we have ever made* 
Scaled to 1440p

All new 8k display the most retina display we have ever made* 
Scaled to 1440p

All new 8k display the most retina display we have ever made* 
Scaled to 1440p

All new 8k display the most retina display we have ever made* 
Scaled to 1440p