Arphis

FIXED !!!
i pluged it in the blue port and form realtek app(software) provided with the driver set it to front speakers and now i am using the blue port set as green port so the failure must be inside the green port somehow ^^ 

Different listening environments, different sources, different audience and to re-release for extra money/legal reasons.
 
If you plan to play the song on the radio you can expect it to be running in a car or maybe at work, alongside some machines or higher ambient noise, while the radio frequency limits the bandwidth and the radio usually isnt the best quality output device. So you can degrade quality or enhance certain features to compensate for that.
 
If you you plan to release your song for streaming you look at the target audience and what they are listening with. If you see the majority will be using mobile phones with "cheap" headphones, you tune the sound to be pleasant on these devices. You may also want to compensate for the streaming services restrictions, equalizing or sound profile, etc.
 
If you go for the hi-fi audio guy to be your listener, you want to offer highest quality for perfect listening environments, like a seperate, acousticly treated room, proper sources and a good signal path with quality speakers at its end.
 
Sometimes a re-master is done to accomodate new technology, Dolby Atmos, 360° audio or just better quality devices. It didnt matter what it sounded like in the 70's because vinyl was everything, but they were a lot of improvements over time.
 
Also legal reasons can be important. Usually a song has mulitple owners over different elements, like lyrics or music and that is true in production and mastering/mixing. Sometimes tracks have to be re-recorded for artists to gain control over "their" music. They will re-master them at the same time.
 
Taylor Swift was not allowed to play her own tracks on stage, since her old label has the copyright ownership of the recordings for her first six albums. It is complex, so you may look it up yourself.

Easy solution: One season of "Aircraft Carrier Crash-Derby"

Easy solution: One season of "Aircraft Carrier Crash-Derby"

Easy solution: One season of "Aircraft Carrier Crash-Derby"

Easy solution: One season of "Aircraft Carrier Crash-Derby"

Easy solution: One season of "Aircraft Carrier Crash-Derby"

Lets not forget that we are talking about their stock price.
 
While I agree on Apple knowing how to please their costumers, their stock value is about pleasing investors.
 
Right now they will probably benefit from stay-at-home people, like other tech companies do, but their value might benefit from investors not knowing where else to invest. Covid is putting companies into difficulties and that uncertainty drives money into safe investments, like an already big tech company which should be "to big to fail".
 
Apple might become a parking lot for excess money aswell as a security/backup for investors who still want to invest risky (start-ups or even struggling companies, in a hope they survive and go big) and split the investment to protect against a complete loss.
 
Apple's stock might have gotten so big that it is gaining more value because of its already high value.

From what I can see @fred82 is right. Audio-In PC and Audio-In CD are for different sources, you only have to connect one source (so 1x red 1x white) to your laptop to get stereo sound. Just take the 3.5 to RCA splitter, connect it to "Audio-In PC" and to your laptop and that should work.
 
If it doesnt work something is broken or something else is setup wrong. Maybe the speaker wires arent properly connected, your laptop audio output isnt properly configured or the splitter cables are junk. But you shouldnt need to, and actually be able to use 2 sources at the same time.
 
Have you tried to run it from your smartphone instead of your laptop?

No
Red = right
White = Left
 
left side is : one red one white together .. so one cable to connect to laptop
right side is for CD player 
 
as far as i can understand (hopefully not wrong)

The Thrustmaster T16000M Hotas kit with the stick and throttle is pretty highly recommended in the flight sim community for having a good amount of buttons and very accurate positional sensors for a decent price (although thanks to COVID the supply is low so prices are up)
 
It is arguably the best bang for the buck stick/throttle.
 
If you're going to be playing in VR your going to want all the controls at your fingertips.
If you're playing on a monitor you could probably get away with a Logitech 3d stick ($50 USD) and use keyboard buttons to supply any extra buttons you need.
 
To get a meaningful upgrade over a T16000M ($150ish USD) your looking at gear costing $500-1500 USD which unless you're getting to study level combat flight simulators is going to be massive overkill for Squadrons with little noticeable difference.
 
If you do want to go a bit overkill the VKB Gladiator K (stick only $150-175 USD) has recently come out and looks very promising.
Last I saw it was back-ordered and for some reason the store page is missing off their site now.

@goose1025
 
A while ago Win 10 got a feature that allows you to set different output/input devices for different applications in the Win 10 settings.
 
Go Settings>System>Sound, scroll down, there should be 'App volume and device prefrences'. In there you can assign a different output device to each program and adjust the volume. Just assign 'your game' and your discord (I guess) to your headphones and your source of music to your Hdmi output.
 
Important note: Since Win 10 can be a bit reluctant at recognizing apps, I recommend to have the app launched before you go to the settings. And if you want to assign your browser, you may want to have it playing a video/audio and the window shouldnt be minimized.
 
Just give it a try as its already build into Win 10, should be fine unless you want to switch on the fly than a different hardware/software solution might be needed.

The T16000m and likely the TCA variant ( haven't tried it personally) are probably the best bang for the buck hotas kits you're going to find.
If you're planning to fly any combat flight sims then having the extra buttons on the T16000M is a must otherwise the TCA is probably better suited to civil aviation.
 
The Logitech sticks seem to have better quality control now than when they were Saitek but i'd avoid the x56 as although it's got a good amount of buttons and hats the ergonomics of the layout isn't great and can be uncomfortable to reach some buttons or accidentally hit the wrong button when reaching for another.
 
The one thing that I see skipped over the most that makes a huge difference is head tracking.
Get a Trackir5 or a cheaper alternative Delan Clip at minimum. VR is great too but that's another large investment in hardware and PC components to get the most out of it.
 
A T16000m stick with TWCS throttle and a Delan Clip kit should give you 90+% of the capability of the super expensive gear while staying below your total budget.

I can recommend the T.16000m FCS Hotas from Thrustmaster.
 
It has a good build quality, nothing special, just properly made plastic. The buttons on the stick base dont feel great, but they get the job done.
 
Thrustmaster has excellent sensors that provide more detail than you will need.
 
They now have a civilian version called TCA which might provide a better button layout but should be mostly identical.
 
There are better sticks out there but a Warthog, or even Virpil or VKB stick is really expensive and since you are a beginner i would not recommend such in investment.
 
They T.16000m together with the TCWS, is the most reasonable product.
 
Saitek would be another brand in your price range but they used to have massive QC issue when were still owned by MadCatz. I dont know how that changed after Logitech bought em, but they havent released anything new since. So maybe read up on that first, if you consider buying one.

https://youtu.be/zuWLM1se8KA?t=214
 
should be it, didnt look for the joke, but has the "France ban's cellphones in schools"-part

https://youtu.be/zuWLM1se8KA?t=214
 
should be it, didnt look for the joke, but has the "France ban's cellphones in schools"-part

The ifi Nano is a DAC aswell as a headphone amplifier, so essentially it is the "soundcard".
 
@ManosMax13 Those lights indicate the quality of audio youre playing over the nano. So in order to be "cyan" for example you would have to make sure the nano is set to 192kHz and you have to play audio that is recorded in 192kHz, over a player capable of playing 192kHz.
 
For it to be magenta, it seems you have to play DSD files which can be done with Foobar2000, but requires some more advanced set up and of course, actual DSD files. And probably it wont sound any better, so unless you really like the color, dont bother.

TLDR: Tidal has an awful implementation of exclusive mode and you should avoid using it.
TIDAL DOES stream proper lossless FLAC identical to anywhere you could buy it, but their player is awful.
You can avoid it by streaming Tidal through "Roon" instead   Why am I doing this? I've for a while felt that Tidal whilst great in terms of resolution etc, sounded somewhat harsh in comparison to either local FLAC files, or interestingly, Tidal streamed through Roon. Also, a lot of people have often accused tidal of "bass boosting" or adding DSP to their music to create a false illusion of increased clarity.
I can't say that I feel its bass boosted but it certainly seemed different. And after hearing the staggering difference between streaming tidal natively vs through Roon, I knew this was NOT placebo and wanted to find out what was happening.
Testing Tidal vs Roon measuring in Windows First, I played "Weak" by AJR on both Tidal, and Tidal via Roon, streaming the same track directly into audacity. Both in bit perfect 16 bit 44.1khz. I then used "Audio DiffMaker" To perform a null test (subtract one audio file from another. If there is a result, it means they are different. If not, it means there is no difference between the two files.) The result was a 0 null, meaning as far as audacity was concerned, both players were outputting 100% bit by bit identical audio. Which surprised me as there is definitely an audible difference, much more than placebo.   Perhaps a FLAC file would show a different result? I purchased a FLAC from HDtracks of the song I was testing, and played it through both Foobar and Roon, which showed a 0 null again on both instances when compared either to eachother or to the original Tidal stream, suggesting these players are identical. Which was odd. Within the OS it seems, there is 0 difference at all and in theory the players should sound 100% identical.   Testing Tidal vs Roon measuring real DAC output
I was not happy yet though. I was convinced something more was going on. And if it couldn't be detected within the OS then it must be to do with how the player and the DAC itself or its drivers are interacting when playing in WASAPI exclusive mode.

So: I hooked up the output of my RME ADI-2 DAC to my audio interface input, in order to record what the dac was ACTUALLY outputting.
I performed a null test once again between streaming the track through tidal vs streaming tidal through roon and boom, we have a difference result:   RoonTidalStreamNullTest.wav   That file is the result of the null test between Tidal and Tidal through roon. Ie: Anything present in both files is removed and only the difference remains. And as you can hear, there is a LOT of difference, meaning not only is the audio altered a little, its changed a LOT. If we look at a peak FR measurement for that file, done with RME Digicheck, we can see that there is a significant amount of increase in the higher frequency areas. Suggesting that the Tidal player is playing audio "Brighter" than Roon. This would explain why to my ears it sounded harsher than other players. To be clear, Roon was operating in WASAPI exclusive mode, not ASIO mode, so as to make it a fair test.     Next, I wanted to find out, given as the digital-only measurements showed 0 difference, and yet we clearly see a difference here. What happens if we put both players on equal ground by having them operate in WASAPI non-exclusive mode. Ie: through the windows audio mixer?

So, I did just that, again measuring the output from the DAC in each case and.......nothing.....100% identical, 0 null. 
Therefore this shows that the problem lies within Tidal's implementation of Exclusive mode. And SOMETHING about it is bad and causing audio to be altered in an undesirable way. And also shows that when not using ASIO/WASAPI exclusive mode for lossless files, the player you use does not matter, as the windows audio mixer is handling all outputs and the result will be the same.   Yeah its different, but is it wrong? Whats to say that Tidal is wrong? Surely It could be that Tidal is "correct" and Roon is wrong?
To test this, I got the FLAC for the track purchased from HDtracks, and played it through Roon. I then null-tested this against Roon-Tidal streaming, Tidal native streaming, and Foobar playback of the same track.

Null test results:
Foobar/Roon: Small differences, but so incredibly low that it would be completely inaudible. Roon was technically more accurate   Roon Flac/Roon Tidal stream: 0 null, completely Identical.   This means that since the roon tidal stream was identical to the FLAC played either through Roon or almost identical to the track played through Foobar, it is indeed Tidal's native player that is "wrong".
  Conclusion:   Something about TIDAL's "Exclusive Mode" implementation causes audio to be altered. This would explain why a lot of people accuse TIDAL of adding DSP to their music. They aren't, their player is just awful and alters the music because its bad.
If you play TIDAL through Roon, it is 100% identical to an actual local FLAC file from a site such as HDtracks or 7digital. Meaning the actual "Streaming" part of Tidal is indeed just streaming lossless FLAC and is actually excellent.

So what's the "Best" way to listen to music on my PC?
I did a couple tests between ASIO and WASAPI exclusive mode, and for my DAC anyway, there was 0 null, meaning no difference at all. 
So ideally, the "Best" way to listen to music is either local FLAC files, or tidal streaming, played through Roon, and outputting to your DAC via WASAPI exclusive or ASIO.
Preferably ASIO to avoid any driver or software issues with switching sample rate or bit depth.   (Foobar is also excellent. Technically not as good as roon, but the differences are 100% inaudible and its free so...)     ________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________   In the next couple days I will be doing some similar experimentation in order to determine the optimal way of playing lossless music on an android DAP. As that can be a bit of a hassle given its 48khz native sample rate. (My initial suspicions are that USB Audio Player Pro will be king)  

Funnily enough, there is an actual product very similar to this, little material wraps for RCA cables. Literally tie them around the connectors of RCA cables lol, I think they were 200 for 4.
 
And this crap:
 

 
And yes, this is a power cable, it's full of Silica, AKA literal fucking sand. Some people are so gullible they'll buy power cables full of sand for 10's of thousands of of dollars.
 

 
 
 
 

I recently managed to solder my own balanced headphone cable for around 20€, not counting the connectors I destroyed in the first try.
 
But I felt that something was missing in the sound, so I added these cellulose-based, printed acoustic enhancers provided by Draghi-Lagarde to the connectors...
 
...now it sounds like a 170€ cable. The sound is just hard to describe, but I guess richer is the proper term.
 
If anyone is interested, I will sell some: 1 for 100€. A set of 3 for 250€ ?

I recently managed to solder my own balanced headphone cable for around 20€, not counting the connectors I destroyed in the first try.
 
But I felt that something was missing in the sound, so I added these cellulose-based, printed acoustic enhancers provided by Draghi-Lagarde to the connectors...
 
...now it sounds like a 170€ cable. The sound is just hard to describe, but I guess richer is the proper term.
 
If anyone is interested, I will sell some: 1 for 100€. A set of 3 for 250€ ?

I remember that guy. I can just say: moron. His room is acoustically sh*t and not even one million dollars worth of speakers and cables would not do anything to improve the sound in his dump. 
 
If you don’t see any acoustic treatment in so called “high end audiophile’s” listening room, you can tell that they are listening music with their eyes, not ears. 

Agreed, one of the biggest upgrades I've done is suspending my floor and treating the entire room.

@JamesHenry Eventhough I like MQA on Tidal Masters, I wouldnt recommend to get the Dragonfly since it isnt much of a DAC. It should distort earlier than the other DACs' you have listed, so you may end up having a better signal from the MQA render which than gets distorted because the Dragonfly struggles to output the needed volume. You may end up with the same issue you have with your current motherboard DAC.
 
I see the D10 to be far more reasonable for your needs and maybe change to a MQA DAC later, when they reach an affordable range.

Now is MQA worth it? To me, yes, kinda. Sometimes difference is minuscule, but aside from being louder the sound stage appears to be more detailed. Just for the record I only listen to it over headpones so far. I havent heard a track for which I would prefer non-MQA over MQA.
 
Now there is a problem with comparing MQA to non MQA tracks, it seems that Tidal sometimes has only one high quality file for some tracks, so I cant really turn off MQA since my SMSL M500 appears to be a full decoder (didnt know the diffrence before I bought it, tbh) and it automatically starts to play MQA if the files contains a MQA signal. So for some files Tidal is basically forcing me to use MQA, hence I have no idea how HiFi sounds.
 
That being said, while some reviewers seem to be praising it to heaven and others dislike it for being a lossy, proprietary compression, I personaly enjoy it and the reconstruction seems to work good enough to compensate for it being, technically, lossy. The fact that it reconstructs at the master is a nice feature too. In the end the quality of the master is more important though.
 

With MQA, Most programs that run it allow you to set them to do the first part of MQA decoding (Which Tidal does), then spit out "normal" information to the DAC, If your DAC has MQA, then you can let the DAC do the decoding and digital-analogue conversion. But the best way to listen to MQA is by letting the DAC do everything, from decoding the MQA, to doing the final digital -> analogue conversion.
 
Well, MQA is lossy. But it's designed to "sit" inside other file formats, such as WAV or FLAC.
 
MQA is mostly meant for making sure that the audio is authentic to what the mastering engineer was hearing. Hence its name (Master Quality Authenticated)
 
And MQA and FLAC sound VERY similar, if not exactly the same.