Universes

MOBO is way overpriced, unless you know you need it. You can easily save a 100, or more.
 
Everything else - depends...
CPU: good value, however google your workload test for this CPU, and see if it is good for you (go up/down as needed)
You can save on RAM a little bit. Also 3200 vs 3600 might not matter to you.
 
CPU cooler and PSU have good headroom for future upgrades/OC (especially PSU, your sys is below 500w).

Nothing to worry about. The whole point of that is just to protect the pins of the socket. You can take it off and put it back on at any time. 

Generally yes, that means the heat is being pulled off of the CPU and being dissipated into the air. 
Generally no, because it will have hardened and not be able to fill in the space between your CPU heat spreader and cooler. 

Unless I don't see it, it doesn't look like the switches are swappable, so that would mean you're using a soldering iron to removing and attach new switches. Even then, why 'waste' high end switches and keycaps on a regular case? 

The most objective answer I have is what I originally replied with. 
This is a matter of personal choice. If you really want to base your choice on someone else's opinion, then I would just get a replacement keyboard. 

I don't understand how they are wired (as shown in the diagram) but you also have switches connected to them? From what I see, the Deco M5 units have 2 ethernet ports, one for in and one for daisy chaining. So there's no way for everything to be hard wired the way you have it in the diagram. 
 
If everything is hard wired, the speeds should be fine. 
If the connection at some point is requiring WiFi, that's probably your limiting factor. 

Generally yes, that means the heat is being pulled off of the CPU and being dissipated into the air. 
Generally no, because it will have hardened and not be able to fill in the space between your CPU heat spreader and cooler. 

If cost and time are the biggest factor, do you think attempting to fix the K552 is worth it especially when it still may not work after 'fixing' it?
 
If there's something special about the specific K552 that you have, then decide how much it is worth to you. 

i think i solved the problem by increasing the vram in the bios from 512mb to 2gb

The Thinkpad is probably the best idea then. You won't need a ton of CPU horsepower for that (often at least), and when you do you can use your desktop.  You shouldn't spend more than you have to on a laptop, use the rest of your money on a book (only slight sarcasm). 

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thanks for the help man 

Ok. Right now, it doesn't seem like they did anything wrong. Again, those temperatures are normal for those parts. Unless you want to have lower temperatures, the computer is fine as it is. 

Those temperatures for those components is absolutely fine. Of course lower temperatures is preferable, but nothing wrong with your current temperatures.
 
Is this a prebuild computer? What is the make and model of the computer?

obvious /s

So, let me get this straight. You've had multiple PSUs fail on you, one even catastrophically, and you now want to buy another low quality POS PSU?
 
Just get a good quality PSU for the love of all things good and holy in the world. At the wattage you need, they're not even expensive. You can get a good new one for easily under $100. Make the investment. The PSU is probably the single most important part of your system, as literally everything else depends on clean, stable and reliable power to operate at its best.

It should be fine to run the fan off the USB port, electrically speaking. As always, just be careful about the possibility of electrical fire depending on how you connected it. 
 
Given the ambient temperatures, dusting and reapplying thermal paste isn't going to do you much. You're also using the NUC in a decently demanding workload. I'd just take off the top or bottom panel covers for better airflow, along with the extra fan. 
With those ambient temperatures, eventually you'll have to resort to using a larger thermal mass. Whether that be a heatsink or water. Alternatively, you can lower the ambient temperature. 

I think that it will work better, but you will still have some sound problems. The thing is that your DAC will still be on your Motherboard, so it should probably produce the same sound as the normal headphone connector. You should get a dedicated DAC, that will completely convert the sound outside of your PC. So something thats just plugged in vie USB. I cant give you any recommendations, but youre more looking into an interface, since you need a mic input.

You are correct. Fulla 2 does not have a microphone input. 
 
Here's a video that includes the EPOS GSX 300, as well as a bunch of other common products. 
 

If you only have a 4 pin CPU connector, then use that one.  It should go in one half of the 8 pin connector - the plug and the connector should be keyed (they're not square holes, some have a custom shape, so you should only be able to plug the 4 pin connector in the proper half of the 8 pin connector, but don't be surprised if it goes in either half, it will be fine).
 
The reason I recommend the 8 pin connector is because some motherboards will refuse to turn on if there's nothing installed in that connector.
 
The 4 pin cable is good for around 190 watts of power. The 8 pin is rated for around 320 watts. 
Core i5 11400 will consume around 80-100 watts, maybe, so even the 4 pin cable would be enough.
More cables means each wire will carry less current, so the wires and connectors will heat less, and there's some reserves for overclocking... that's why the 8 pin is standard, and an extra 4 pin is on the motherboard for extreme overclocking. 
 
If you're paranoid, you can buy adapter cables which convert a pci-e 6 pin / 8 pin  or 2 molex (old style hdd) to eps 8 pin (cpu power)
 
Make sure your power supply can provide enough power on the 12v output - multiply the current value listed on the label by 12 (the voltage). Some of that 450 watts is often reserved for the 3.3v and 5v outputs and the actual 12v output is less than 450w, on a good model you should have at least 320-350 watts on 12v  (around 350w/12v = 29A)

What is your budget? Generally, you either pick fast refresh rate or high fidelity. If you want both, it's still a compromise and you would have to pay a premium for it. 
 
A simple search would have answered your question: https://www.amd.com/en/technologies/free-sync & https://www.techspot.com/article/1630-freesync-2-explained/

@Ki_Tso @DesFTW Well, I was really hoping that it wasn't a defective CPU. It's a little surprising to me, because that's the part that has the lowest failure rate in my experience (assuming the CPU hasn't been handled incorrectly). That's a real shame; I feel bad for the both of you. 
 
Since it's not the easiest to get a CPU right now either, I suggested solutions that would not require a different CPU. 

FYI
https://www.oled-info.com/gigabyte-aorus-fo48u
 
Be advised however that when ever anything is given the 'gamer' treatment, price inevitably increases. So despite this display having the 'TV' stuff removed ..i expect ti to be more expensive..which is kinda pointless. Unless it comes out with the ability to run VRR and BFI at the same time, and maybe even full bandwidth HDMI 2.1 or Display port ..perhaps pushing to 144hzz (which i highly doubt, pritty sure 120hz is hardware limited).. it wont be worth the price ..ofc they could surprise us all and release it below the cost of the LG C1 48".
 
Between the CX and C1 ...they pritty much identical. Within panel variance. Some reviews indicate the C1 has slightly lower peak brightness and worse out of the box calibration, but you get some minor improvements in the processing options for films, and black level weeknight in game mode.
 
I'd get which ever u can find cheapest tbh.
 
Me myself, am very tempted to nab a CX for ~£900 .. BUT i'd also need a 30 series GPu to utilize 120hz 4k ..thats where my problem is. While the OLED TV's have gone down in price, the GPUs have gone nuts, and is unlikely to change for at least another year. Im a scrooge with my money, i dont let myself get ripped off.
 
Now all that being said. For static UI content creation, dont get an OLED. The cumulative wear of the same pixels due to the static UI will eventually burn in.
OLED 'burn-in' is a non issue for 'normal' TV use, and average gaming and PC use. It only becomes a problem with specific repeated content use with static high contrast images. Since ur going to be using video editing software and the like, ull be dealing with alot of static UI's ..an OLED is a poor choice for that.
 
What ever u end up choosing however, u will NEED to get it calibrated, either by urself or someone else, otherwise ur content you make wont be color correct.

This is written in motherboard specs
When installing devices in M.2_2, PCI_E2 & PCI_E3 slots at the same time, PCI_E3 slot will be unavailable, and M2_2 slot only supports PCIe x2. 
 
AMD B550 Chipset
6x SATA 6Gb/s ports
2x M.2 slots (Key M)M2_1 slot (from AMD Processor)
Supports PCIe 4.0/ 3.0 x4 1
Supports SATA 6Gb/s
Supports 2242/ 2260/ 2280/ 22110 storage devices
M2_2 slot (from AMD B550 chipset)
Supports PCIe 3.0x4
Supports 2242/ 2260/ 2280 storage devices
The supported specification depends on installed processor.

You choices for RAM are the following:
buy 1 8Gb 2666MHz stick and add it in buy a set of 2 sticks and replace the original one stick buy 1 8Gb stick and a 2 stick set to fill all four slots buy a set of 4 sticks and replace the original one stick (I don't recommend due to price and upgradability) buy a set of 2 sticks and use three sticks total (not as good performance, but it will work) For your fans, it's fine. Pretty sure there aren't more options for mounting fans in that Dell case anyways.