nayman898

Alphacool has one: https://www.aquatuning.us/water-cooling/gpu-water-blocks/gpu-full-cover/eisblock-gpx/30455/alphacool-eisblock-aurora-acryl-rx-7900xtx/xt-taichi/phantom-with-backplate

You're having the same issues I had with the Crosshair VI. Get rid of it before it craps out entirely like mine did.
I switched to a Gigabyte Aorus X570 and haven't looked back. 

Are you using the correct device in the settings? I don't always trust Front I/O for their audio ports. Not every case manufacturer takes them seriously and uses good quality components. If you are not seeing the device as plugged in in the sound settings, then it might not be detecting the front I/O correctly

They all basically say they don't have it, but normally do have a small amount that leeches into the water. Looking at pics I would def replace the tubing and them run something like primochill system reboot for the full 48hrs to flush the sysytem.

Ok, should just flush and get clear coolant then?
 
 

I would guess that's just the coloration in the coolant settling out. Coolants are made opaque by suspending a powder in the water, so most opaque coolants will tend to settle out and gunk up over time.

Ah, apologies I didn't think of location. Also try User Benchmark (userbenchmark.com) and see what your hardware is doing in comparison to other machines, if it underperforms by a drastic amount it could also be an indicator. 

Apevia is foreign, made for international and US standards. Most times when they're made foreign and shipped to US the companies have a 120v option and a 240v option and they just send the 120v one (115v,230v or 120v,240v)

I finished my Custom loop re-run with my new D5 pump. My old Thermaltake one failed, I plan on getting a warranty replacement on it for a backup/secondary PC.
Would have included the Battlestation, but it is dirty and rather pathetic.I plan on ordering some desk parts and making a new one off IKEA in the near future.


Current build:
AMD Ryzen 5 2600 (needs replacement)
ASUS Crosshair VI Hero X370 
Sapphire AMD Vega 64 8GB
16GB Corsair 3200 DDR4 RAM
Thermaltake View 37 RGB

Cooling:
Thermaltake 360mm Radiator with 3 120mm Riing fans mounted on side
3x 140mm Riing+ fans on the front 
EKWB Monoblock for CPU and Motherboard
EKWB Vega 64 RGB block
EKWB D5 Pump/Res combo
 
Peripherals:
Logitech Pro Keyboard
Logitech G502 Wirless
Logitech Deskpad
Logitech LightSync speakers
Scarlet Solo USB Audio Interface
Schiit Magni Headphone Amp
MXL 770 Cardioid Mic with boom stand
Sony WH1000XM3 Noise cancelling headphones
1x MSI Optix 24" curved Monitor (cheapest 144hz 1ms that I could get at the time from Best Buy with employee discount)
1x Samsung 22" Curved Monitor (I have 2 of these for 3 screens but my desk is too small to fit my tower and all monitors. With the new desk I plan to change that)
Monitors on a triple VESA mount attached to the desk (one taken off temporarily)

The tubing is a little odd as the positioning of the Radiator was changed from the front to the side and I brought in the new pump after I ran the initial tubing. 
When I do upgrade the MB and CPU (if I recall my monoblock may fit some of the newer Crosshair AM4 boards) I plan on changing from soft tubing to hard tubing.

 
 
Thermals impact with this is huge. On average I would run 80-90c in games on the graphics card (blower style) and 60-75c on the CPU with a Corsair H110i
 
Now i am running 44c max on the GPU and 64c max on the CPU (CPU second in line.

Another thing that is rough right now is the cable management. It needs to be re-done and I plan on replacing all of the Riing fans with Riing+ and using one hub instead of 2 and the new addressable RGB headers that are available on ASUS x4** and up boards

I know these don't show a lot of thermal information like I had initially hoped. I am looking for some screenshots and HWMonitor stuff I had from before.
Post-LC 3DMark results + OC (old results but same setup) https://www.3dmark.com/3dm/34247939
Pre-LC 3DMark results https://www.3dmark.com/spy/6397141
 

I just finished my first true build. I've built computers in the past, plenty of times. But never have I put as much time into one as I did into this. 

Housing a Ryzen 5 2600X, a Radeon RX Vega 64, ASUS Crosshair VI Hero X370, and a Samsung 970 Pro NVMe 512GB SSD all topped off with an EK Nickel plated Reference Vega 64 Water block, and a Motherboard specific C6H Nickel Plated Monoblock. A ThermalTake 360mm x 32mm Radiator front mounted in a ThermalTake View 37.

The only downside I have so far, is the Motherboard I have doesn't have any Adressable RGB Headers, so the Thermaltake RIING fans I have are not in sync with the motherboard. Otherwise, I am proud of the work I have done.
 
Cable management is still in progress, These were taken immediately after I finished the Liquid Cooling loop, and it was mentally straining on me.

But I am still open to suggestions, what should I do next? What can I improve on? How do I fix the RGB Syncing issues?

Thank you for reading!

That's normal, there are usually a few blanks in them. Most of the 24 pins are ground anyways, I have attached an image of the pinout

Sounds to me like a Gaming PC is an expense that is a little out of your reach.

Regardless, if it is a GTX 960m then that would be understandable, but a GTX 960 should still average a little over 60 frames. Building a gaming PC is an expense, and to get something that will perform for something better than High at 1080p on the majority of games is significantly moreso. A new gaming PC will still be close to $800-$1000 running some low-mid end specs. My personal recommendation is a Micro-ATX loadout with a Ryzen 5 2600 paired with a GTX 1060 or a 1050 TI
 
Start small, this will have power and room to expand, with a solid CPU for its price (and just pretty awesome in general), and the ability to still suit the tougher games with the powerful 1060 or still adequate 1050 Ti
 
Upgrading your Motherboard, Case and RAM would be your next big steps, as these aren't necessarily Vital to a PC's gaming potential (while they still do play a part) by taking some price cuts on some of the things that aren't as vital, you can get a gaming PC that still powers through for a decent amount of time.
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant Type Item Price CPU AMD - Ryzen 5 2600 3.4 GHz 6-Core Processor $159.89 @ OutletPC CPU Cooler Cooler Master - Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler $24.89 @ OutletPC Motherboard Gigabyte - B450M DS3H Micro ATX AM4 Motherboard $69.00 @ Amazon Memory Team - Vulcan 8 GB (2 x 4 GB) DDR4-3000 Memory $59.99 @ Newegg Business Storage Samsung - 860 Evo 500 GB 2.5" Solid State Drive $79.99 @ Amazon Video Card MSI - GeForce GTX 1050 Ti 4 GB Video Card $154.99 @ Newegg Case Rosewill - FBM-01 MicroATX Mini Tower Case $24.99 @ Amazon Power Supply EVGA - BQ 650 W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply $45.98 @ Newegg Operating System Microsoft - Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit $95.89 @ OutletPC   Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts     Total (before mail-in rebates) $770.61   Mail-in rebates -$55.00   Total $715.61   Generated by PCPartPicker 2018-11-12 16:46 EST-0500   PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant Type Item Price CPU AMD - Ryzen 5 2600 3.4 GHz 6-Core Processor $159.89 @ OutletPC CPU Cooler Cooler Master - Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler $24.89 @ OutletPC Motherboard Gigabyte - B450M DS3H Micro ATX AM4 Motherboard $69.00 @ Amazon Memory Team - Vulcan 8 GB (2 x 4 GB) DDR4-3000 Memory $59.99 @ Newegg Business Storage Samsung - 860 Evo 500 GB 2.5" Solid State Drive $79.99 @ Amazon Video Card EVGA - GeForce GTX 1060 6GB 6 GB GAMING Video Card $229.89 @ OutletPC Case Rosewill - FBM-01 MicroATX Mini Tower Case $24.99 @ Amazon Power Supply EVGA - BQ 650 W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply $45.98 @ Newegg Operating System Microsoft - Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit $95.89 @ OutletPC   Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts     Total (before mail-in rebates) $870.51   Mail-in rebates -$80.00   Total $790.51   Generated by PCPartPicker 2018-11-12 16:46 EST-0500    

You should check your bios options, as well as reinstall your Graphics Drivers. Also try reinstalling your Acer drivers. If you are currently running a custom install of windows (not the factory image) then you Have to make sure that drivers are reinstalled. Especially on gaming laptops. There is likely a controller driver that enables your GFX card when Plugged in (usually how gaming laptops form 2015 work)

Don't know if you saw my edits, those will work for the games your mentioning. They leave room for upgradability as well

I assume you have data on this cooler to back up your claims.  Let's see it, after all that's OPs question

Except it's not. They don't have stock for the parts, because it is a new product. They expect people to get their protection plan so they can replace the whole device until they are able to manufacture spare parts instead of the entire phone. It's business, they need to have enough money from the phone to be able to produce the spare parts necessary for repairs. With the iMac Pro repair they blatantly denied being able to provide the parts (despite Apple obviously having them). The same thing happens with Samsung phones when they release, I work for a computer repair store, and often times we don't have parts for samsung devices that are official from samsung until the next generation of devices has released, instead we ship them in for repair. The difference is there are a lot of freelance repair places that aren't "authorized" by the manufacturer, so they are able to use third party parts for repairs and replacements, whereas repair stores that are "authorized" are contractually obligated to use the official parts supplied by the manufacturer. This is common amongst all phones, this is not new. iPhone is the only device that ships parts to ASP's within weeks of the device's release

Hybrid cards usually came around a few months after the FE and air cooled AIB cards.

It is definitely power-throttling based on the graphs. As far as a solution I would verify good connection on the 4 or 8-pin connectors on the motherboard. (should be 8 ). You should also see if you have consistency in your Voltage rather than your wattage, as that will be a better indicator of performance issues. I am not an expert in CPU testing, but power plays a big part, so that is my basic recommendation. 
 

My usual diagnostics: 
1: Unplug Any peripherals in the device including non system vital PCI-e and USB devices (such as front panel USB), run tests (Benchmarking is a good test to keep it consistent)
2: If failure after that, Remove the Motherboard from the case and place it on either cardboard or an Anti-static surface and run the same test with only the vital system components installed.
 
A failure as such means it is not posting, so I would recommend Removing ALL RAM sticks and putting them in one at a time and try to turn it on. Usually post errors are CPU, GPU or RAM related. If you are able to, or have, a BIOS Speaker, plug it in and listen for beep codes when you turn it on. Often times they will give you a better idea of the issue if the board doesn't have a 8-bit error code display.

It is much more likely a PSU issue that a power draw issue. The way that the components are created, they would fail if they were accidentally drawing too much power to the point of not working at all. Too much power going through something would fry it faster than just shutting down unexpectedly. 
As far as power consumption, you should definitely be fine. I run an 850w 80+ titanium PSU in my primary kit right now (my gold died T-T) and I am running an AMD FX-9590 at 250w (oc'd) and an RX580 at 230W and then all my extra peripherals like fans and liquid cooling (ya need it with an fx9590) and I have had no power draw issues (then again, a titanium is 90%+) In most cases computers don't normally draw more than 600w, especially with yours having relatively efficient components.

Sounds like either 1: a bad Driver for your Graphics, or 2: A bad or corrupt windows file. The two options I would recommend to try and fix it, is to completely uninstall the NVIDIA software and driver from your machine then reinstall it. If it still occurs after that, attempt running an SFC /scannow, and if it still continues, try a re-installation of Windows

The quality should be unaffected, rather it just effects the way it portrays positional audio

Then I would agree with @WikiForce in that it could be your RAM. I am not aware of that brand either. I wouldn't recommend getting RAM from companies other than the mainstream ones. Reliability and performance is often skewed on lesser known chip makers, so sticking with the primary brand like CORSAIR, PNY, or G.SKILL would be best

The pins you should be connecting are the ones in the circle. If those pins are sparking when you connect them, then there must be some sort of power delivery issue that is sending power through the grounded connection. If that is the case, I am not sure what further assistance I would be able to provide.

Only need an amp if the interface isn't powerful enough to drive your headphones, if your on-board audio can drive them basically any audio interface with phones out can. Also higher end interfaces already have great amps, no need for additional hardware.

Lower end - Behringer UMC22 or Focusrite Scarlett Solo
Intermediate - Yamaha AG03 or Yamaha AG06
Higher end - Yamaha MG12XU
Professional - RME Babyface Pro or RME Fireface UC

If within budget I recommend the Yamaha AG03 or AG06, big step up from the lower end interfaces. Provides both mic input(s) and stereo input(s) with per input level control and multiple routing options for the USB input.