Maxinfamily

Before posting a new troubleshooting topic:
Check there aren't any similar threads already - if there are, it's much easier for everyone to use the same thread so that everybody gets all of the same advice Try turning it off and on again. It sounds stupid, but it's amazing how often that fixes it Make sure all of your drivers are up to date WHEN MAKING YOUR POST, ALWAYS:
Describe the problem you are having in detail but without rambling. If your post is as long as this one, it's too long. Include your operating system including version and 32/64 bit. Include your entire system specs, including the wattage of your PSU. Tell us which BIOS version you have. Some problems can be fixed by updating to the latest BIOS, so check that there are no updates available Include any software running when it crashes (if applicable) Give full details of any error messages and screenshots if possible Use an informative title briefly describing the error. It's not helpful to see a thread titled "please help" or "Urgent" because most people are better at some problems than others, so may not prioritize your issue, and some people will ignore you completely. Without these details, we may not be able to help you. To speed up the process, please ensure you have all the details on your post.

Please be respectful to people giving advice. They are just trying to help you, and it's highly unlikely that they will be trying to damage you, your PC, or anything else. If you doubt what they have said, just quote it and ask whether it's really a good idea/what it will achieve/surely it will do this. You would be amazed at the variety of solutions that actually work.
 
When your problem appears to have been solved, mark the solution as the answer (using the check button at the bottom of the post). The troubleshooters would also appreciate it if you liked posts which were helpful and allowed you to solve your problem. Remember, people have given up time to help you.
 
If you have overclocked any components, it is important that you reset them to stock before asking for help, even if it has been working fine. Overclocking can cause a wide range of obscure issues, and it's one of the easiest things to get out of the way.
 
An example thread with the necessary information is:
 
 
General Advice for common issues
Blue Screen of Death
 
If your PC doesn't POST or power on (is stuck on a black screen and no beeps), run through the troubleshooting steps in README: How to respond to a no POST or no power up situation.
 
Checking SSD/hard disk integrity for Windows users
 
Useful tools
 
Other Resources
 
 
 
If anyone else has any suggestions for stuff to add, comment below and I'll edit this post.

It's fine. Static can't get through. The bigger issue would be the psu not being able to breath. If you plan to keep it like that long term flip the psu up.

1060
 

Doesnt exist, its impossible to do it.

yep power gotta be measure from plug when idle and at load
 
you can estimate it by adding what power usages given by vendors of pc parts
 
eg 10w for hdd plus 5w for ssd plus 30w mainboard etc
 
but figures given by parts suppliers under load and idle are generally fickal

I think peak watts * 0.7071 gives RMS watt value(ones peak others flat value)

add up tdp's(all parts have this data available, just gotta search) should be close enuff but gives a total peak 2 peak wattage ,which should give you a rough idea of psu size (total*1.2)
 
as for effiency of psu ....that is just how effient the psu is in converting mains power to pc power....in other words how good it does its job and save you electric bill money

Yes It would. But since your display will outlast your PC by 2 or 3 times (and then It could be your secondary display) If you can afford a 144Hz display, I suggest you to do It and youll upgrade the rest of your HW later.

He said that because AAA games are more demanding that "regular ones" on which he could be able to achieve those 144fps, I assume.

To take a full advantage of a 144Hz refresh rate, it would be ideal for the PC to deliver 144FPS. But really, if your PC can render about 100FPS, then that's good enough.

1- What is this for?
 
2- Do you really think that you need a 500$ 16Gbs of RAM? Theres plenty good rgb ram under 200.
2.1- Whats the CL of the memory?
Edit: Just checked CL19, not worth, theres not a noticeable difference for the price. But 3000MHz CL17, It will do just great.
 
3- There are plenty of other options of 1TB SATA SSD (like the 850 evo)

Well, the cpu to be locked doesnt mean you cant OC, It only means that Its ready to be OCed in terms of construction materials quality (they endure better the temperatures and the higher voltajes). Ive bought my i5 4690 almost 4 years ago and Ive OCed it to 3.9GHz (from 3.5) thanks to my mobo utilities (I have the Asus Z-97 P). The H and B tiers are also goob mobos, but since you are buying a i7 6700 I would go for the Z series, so you can OC it in 3-4 years so Its keeps delivering the performance youll need. 

Regarding the brands; for "equal" mobos I always have this order preference Asus>Gigabyte>Others since from my experience they are the ones who has been more reliable. I always check the other options, because Its stupid to always buy from the same brand no matter what. 
 
Ive taken a glance at the mobos and the main differences are the sound quality, which is told to be better on the Gigabyte and the rgb fringe on the msi one. Personally, I would go for the Gigabyte because I really care about sound quality, and If you are not going to buy a sound card and you care about it, I would say that the Gigabyte is your mobo.
 
Edit: if you are not an "advanced user" and you dont want to OC and stuff, go for the ones @ZM Fong suggested, truth be told, It is stupid to buy a Z series if you are not into OC or you dont want to learn/plan to do It.

Contact microsoft via the live chat, they'll help you out

It will be shut down within a minute. With a simple passive cooler it could last longer and maybe not shutdown due to overheating at all, but goodluck without any kind of dissipation

Well, the cpu to be locked doesnt mean you cant OC, It only means that Its ready to be OCed in terms of construction materials quality (they endure better the temperatures and the higher voltajes). Ive bought my i5 4690 almost 4 years ago and Ive OCed it to 3.9GHz (from 3.5) thanks to my mobo utilities (I have the Asus Z-97 P). The H and B tiers are also goob mobos, but since you are buying a i7 6700 I would go for the Z series, so you can OC it in 3-4 years so Its keeps delivering the performance youll need. 

Regarding the brands; for "equal" mobos I always have this order preference Asus>Gigabyte>Others since from my experience they are the ones who has been more reliable. I always check the other options, because Its stupid to always buy from the same brand no matter what. 
 
Ive taken a glance at the mobos and the main differences are the sound quality, which is told to be better on the Gigabyte and the rgb fringe on the msi one. Personally, I would go for the Gigabyte because I really care about sound quality, and If you are not going to buy a sound card and you care about it, I would say that the Gigabyte is your mobo.
 
Edit: if you are not an "advanced user" and you dont want to OC and stuff, go for the ones @ZM Fong suggested, truth be told, It is stupid to buy a Z series if you are not into OC or you dont want to learn/plan to do It.

I did that, I cheap up on mobo and used stock cooler with the 7700, if your GPU is high end enough you'll be more than fine, both processors, locked and unlocked, are a beast.

the CPU_OPT fan header is just a 2nd mirrored CPU fan header, it can still be 100% controlled independent of the CPU one but is by default a mirror. It's usually used for pumps or dual rads on AIOs.

I have an old Core2Duo pc that the motherboard CPU-FAN broke and I use a Chassi-FAN instead, the stock cooler runs max all the freaking time but it works and this is just a storage computer so who cares

rx 480 4gb, 8gb if you can spare the change.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B06XCCRJWS?
 
This seems like the perfect cheap monitor for an rx480 build, considering 60-75fps 1080p is what the rx480 pushes in demanding modern games.
 
The only problem is I cannot find the input lag for it listed. I tried to research it and cannot find this monitor anywhere else not even on the Dell website when searching with the model number..
 
I am doing a build for my brother and want him to have ips and free sync, trying to keep the build under 800 with pc, monitor, mouse, keyboard. Also does anyone know how I can get windows 10 cheaper? I just bought a copy for my own pc does it come with multiple codes?
 
Thank you!!

1- What is this for?
 
2- Do you really think that you need a 500$ 16Gbs of RAM? Theres plenty good rgb ram under 200.
2.1- Whats the CL of the memory?
Edit: Just checked CL19, not worth, theres not a noticeable difference for the price. But 3000MHz CL17, It will do just great.
 
3- There are plenty of other options of 1TB SATA SSD (like the 850 evo)

CL19, just checked. Those figures are just to sell you the memory. Check the difference between 3000MHz CL17 and 4133MHz CL19. Its almost non existence, he should invest those 300$ in a 1080ti (as @Light-Yagami suggested) and a better monitor, and stuff. Dont waste the money in that ram. 
 
Edit: he can easily save arround 500$ in the system just by buying another SATA SSD (like the 850 evo) , and another pair of rgb RAM (about 200$).  Then he can also not buy the "RGB Smart Controller" since the ASUS mobo he selected supports Aura, as far as I know, so he doesnt need that (I think that every rgb component has to support It in order to controll your lightning with Aura, check the compatibility)
 
Then he can invest It in a good high refresh rate 1440p monitor (well, he will need some more if he wants It to be IPS and have G-Sync).
 
Edit2: I want to emphasize on what I mentioned about Aura before, because I AM NOT SURE about how It really works. I havent used yet, neither read much about It, so if anyone knows how It works and what It needs to work, please, share that knowledge
 
Edit3: Ive done some digging and heres what I found:
 
A LTT topic from last year which has a video linked explaining the RBG sync with aura:
 
 
 
And heres another article about aura and the sync with explicative videos:
 
http://edgeup.asus.com/2016/10/11/aura-rgb-lighting/
 
Edit 4: You can also get just the windows key and do the bootable device yourself with this tool (its official and Its provided and supported by MS) https://www.microsoft.com/en-gb/software-download/windows10#34de222e-6944-44aa-8f45-8e96988880a4 so you will save some bucks more.

CL19, just checked. Those figures are just to sell you the memory. Check the difference between 3000MHz CL17 and 4133MHz CL19. Its almost non existence, he should invest those 300$ in a 1080ti (as @Light-Yagami suggested) and a better monitor, and stuff. Dont waste the money in that ram. 
 
Edit: he can easily save arround 500$ in the system just by buying another SATA SSD (like the 850 evo) , and another pair of rgb RAM (about 200$).  Then he can also not buy the "RGB Smart Controller" since the ASUS mobo he selected supports Aura, as far as I know, so he doesnt need that (I think that every rgb component has to support It in order to controll your lightning with Aura, check the compatibility)
 
Then he can invest It in a good high refresh rate 1440p monitor (well, he will need some more if he wants It to be IPS and have G-Sync).
 
Edit2: I want to emphasize on what I mentioned about Aura before, because I AM NOT SURE about how It really works. I havent used yet, neither read much about It, so if anyone knows how It works and what It needs to work, please, share that knowledge
 
Edit3: Ive done some digging and heres what I found:
 
A LTT topic from last year which has a video linked explaining the RBG sync with aura:
 
 
 
And heres another article about aura and the sync with explicative videos:
 
http://edgeup.asus.com/2016/10/11/aura-rgb-lighting/
 
Edit 4: You can also get just the windows key and do the bootable device yourself with this tool (its official and Its provided and supported by MS) https://www.microsoft.com/en-gb/software-download/windows10#34de222e-6944-44aa-8f45-8e96988880a4 so you will save some bucks more.

I will say that you are partially wrong. It depends on the MHz of the HyperX and the CL which he didnt mentioned and the price difference. The timings on the right of the table is what It takes to the RAM to fetch a certain amount of info to the CPU. So the faster, the better. A 1-2 ns difference wont matter but if theres a 3-4ns difference, It could be interesting to invest the money if It isnt a great difference.
 
Btw, the pick is from "CAS Latency" or CL on wikipedia.
 

https://gyazo.com/35d0677e86d954d0baab39c99f8a6cd3

Unlocked CPUs after Haswell no longer include a stock cooler at ALL.