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Lord Nicoll

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About Lord Nicoll

  • Title
  • Birthday Jan 02, 1996

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  • Discord
    Joshua A. Nicoll#8138
  • Steam
    Lord Nicoll
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  • Xbox Live
    A Wookie Leg
  • Reddit
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Profile Information

  • Location
  • Gender
  • Interests
    Pretty much everything STEM related
  • Biography
    Too much to write just here..
  • Occupation


  • CPU
    Intel Core I7 7700K
  • Motherboard
    ASUS ROG Maximus VIII Formula
  • RAM
    2X 4GB Corsair Vengeance LPX DDR4 2400MHz @ 2666MHz
  • GPU
    MSI GeForce GTX 980 Gaming 4G
  • Case
    Corsair SPEC-03 (modded)
  • Storage
    Seagate Pipeline 500GB, SanDisk SSD Plus 120GB
  • PSU
    Corsair RM850x
  • Display(s)
    Samsung SyncMater SA350
  • Cooling
    Custom Water loop
  • Keyboard
    Razer BlackWidow
  • Mouse
    Logiech G300s
  • Sound
    ROG onboard
  • Operating System
    Windows 10
  • PCPartPicker URL

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  1. More info would help, system specs, monitor model, what port you're using, exact FPS etc
  2. Sorry for the belated reply, I'm afraid the best course of action is to send both back and state that either or both might be faulty, that's easier if you bought from the same shop as they can then easily process the RMA internally for the defective part, if you haven't already done so
  3. If nothing works in it it's possible the board or CPU are DOA (dead on arrival), it's rare but does happen from time to time. Have you got any other memory sticks to test it with?
  4. That I think is a 16:10 monitor, it should be able to run it just fine but I'm not sure if the video out ports will support 120hz, I'd hope it can but if it has older HDMI/DisplayPort ports on it it might not support the bandwidth required for that, you'll need to check the laptop specs. What ports does the monitor have? As for light gaming I wouldn't be hopefull for gaming at the native resolution anywhere near 120hz unless it's a very very light game. edit: Ok I googled the laptop spec's and the HDMI port is listed as 1.4B which only lists 1920 x 1080p @ 120Hz, so I don't think it
  5. Buying high quality filament that's wound onto the roll properly is about the only way to stop that if it's getting caught on itself as it prints. stringing can also be caused by too high temps, however 200 should be good. If retraction settings aren't fixing the stringing then it might just be either the model, the G code or the filament itself.
  6. That's stringing probably, likely this happens when a certain part of the model changes and the Gcode changes how the plastic is deposited, for PLA on an E3V2 retraction speed of between 20-40 mm/s and 2-6mm should work. A Z hop might also be needed but without seeing it I can't say for sure
  7. Top and bottom thickness means how many layers the top and bottom of the part have, in cura you'll need to enable the ability to see those settings as they're hidden by default. Click on settings in the top left corner and at the bottom it has settings visibility, just check the ones shown below but if you want 100% controll check them all
  8. No, that's just the spring bottoming out faster because there is 1mm or so of plastic on it as well. I drilled mine out so it rides over the spring so it didn't effect the bed level and it still works fine.
  9. If it's anything like my CR10S Pro V2, it uses the bed leveling mechanism as a strain relief system, which if you're guessing sucks, you're right, but it's how they did it on a budget. You won't have damaged the heater though, it's all the way under the printer bed carriage.
  10. Ah yeah don't use that, it sucks, it's just a reskinned cura however it should still have first layer height and speed settings. I'd suggest you try Prusaslicer or Cura, they tend to give better results.
  11. Even glass beds can be not totally flat, in fact they rarely are, mine has a BL touch so it's not a huge issue but still something that requires attention. What slicer do you use, first layer height and speed are two very important parameters especially for more demanding materials like PA6 and ASA. .32mm and 10mm/s should work great and ensure the PLA is really stick down regardless of how uneven the glass bed might be.
  12. I had something similar happen but I found it was my nozzle offset set too low so the nozzle was dragging on the bed a bit, it's possible the bed isn't very flat and thusly even perfectly leveled at all 4 corners it might still have large irregularities. I suspect if you try a thicker first layer that is printed very slowly it might work out, hard to say what the actual issue is, could be a few things. The fact it's only on one side, might be a draught too, or something loose at that end.
  13. I'd say build it around the 5600X and slightly faster memory (3600) since when GPUs come down in price hopefully so will the 5600X and it's more than a bit better than the 3600 but not earth shattering however if you want to keep it as is, that's understandable.
  14. Your board is a daisy chane board and so running 4 DIMMs is going to put more of a challenge on the memory system as a whole, as well as adding double the memory to the IMC, likely it can't run this set up at 4400Mhz, try a slower speed or fiddling with timings and voltages, but do so at your own risk.