GuiltySpark_

Likely clogged up. I'd replace this. 
 
 
Obviously do the basics. Verify mounting pressure, fresh paste, etc.. Personally I'd just ditch that thing, those MSI branded Alpatek models have been proven to be crap. The pump is also in the radiator making top mounting the rad a bad idea.

I can guarantee you pretty much any router is capable of handling more than 20 devices and works for gaming.

This. 
 
VSync is "required" with GSync as in some cases there may still be some minor tearing near the bottom of the screen. 
 
If you don't have VRR display then you can use FastSync (NVIDIA) or EnhancedSync (AMD). 
 
This eliminates tearing ONLY if your FPS is higher than your monitors refresh rate. It still ads input lag but way less than VSync and the higher the FPS the less input lag you'll get. 

I've been gaming on GSync panels since 2016 and I haven't experienced tearing in any capacity since then. This topic is covered a ton and in great detail but I keep things simple. GSync on, global framerate cap in NVCP (now Nvidia app) to 2fps below my displays max refresh rate. Done, tearing gone. 
 
Its commonly accepted to use VSync in conjunction with GSync, however, but I've never seen a need to. https://blurbusters.com/gsync/gsync101-input-lag-tests-and-settings/14/ 

I've been gaming on GSync panels since 2016 and I haven't experienced tearing in any capacity since then. This topic is covered a ton and in great detail but I keep things simple. GSync on, global framerate cap in NVCP (now Nvidia app) to 2fps below my displays max refresh rate. Done, tearing gone. 
 
Its commonly accepted to use VSync in conjunction with GSync, however, but I've never seen a need to. https://blurbusters.com/gsync/gsync101-input-lag-tests-and-settings/14/ 

I'd see what you can do about trying to funnel budget away from other things and into a faster GPU. That's a lot of money to spend on a 1080p system with parts that make more sense in a high end 1440p/4k system, except for the GPU. First thing I'd do is drop to a 7600/x, or maybe a 7700/x. You don't need to go all out on a 7800x3D for only a 4060, you really want to prioritize the GPU if you have aspirations above 1080p. 
 
If 1080p is and forever will be the goal, I'd still spend less on the CPU. 
 
Just seems a little off balance for 1080p, is all. 

RX 6800, RX 7700 XT, Arc A770 16GB. Nvidia doesn't have strong options at the $300 price point right now since the RTX 4060 really isn't a good gaming desktop GPU outside of specifically 1080p.
 
The 8GB buffer isn't enough for AAA games and there's better options at that price point for standard rasterization and AAA. RTX 4060 is dramatically upsold for its tier of silicon with the expectation that it bats higher than its weight with DLSS.

I'd see what you can do about trying to funnel budget away from other things and into a faster GPU. That's a lot of money to spend on a 1080p system with parts that make more sense in a high end 1440p/4k system, except for the GPU. First thing I'd do is drop to a 7600/x, or maybe a 7700/x. You don't need to go all out on a 7800x3D for only a 4060, you really want to prioritize the GPU if you have aspirations above 1080p. 
 
If 1080p is and forever will be the goal, I'd still spend less on the CPU. 
 
Just seems a little off balance for 1080p, is all. 

For stress testing OCCT is quite good in many aspects.
Not really for diagnosing motherboard problems specifically though.

HWiNFO is one of not the most trusted general system statistics software, but get it from the source. https://www.hwinfo.com/download/
 
There isn't really a strictly motherboard specific diagnostic application, you'll more be testing the components plugged into it, so CPU, GPU, drives, memory, ports, etc...
 

why are you downloading hwinfo from shitty leech websites like that?
https://www.hwinfo.com/download/
 
hwinfo is a monitoring tool. It wont tell you if your board has any issues, it will display sensor data. Finding issues is the technicians (in this instance, you) job.

@CJDriver if you don't quote people using the button under their post, most often they won't know that you've replied to them.
Either you reply them by clicking that button, or tag them by name like how I did
 
Also btw, I noticed you picked B650 Aorus Elite Ax, there is a v2 (version 2) of it.
I don't own the motherboard so I don't know for sure, but a member here (@ImWilly) mentioned in other thread that the v2 uses a better wifi module.
So you might want to take that into consideration, or atleast research about the two motherboards.
 
 

The MSI, its just impossible to get your hands on. 16:9 doesn't need a curve.

I'm confused...why do you need to ADD a separate WiFi card, then the ASUS Prime-B760M-A AX COMES with a WiFi + BT combo??
It has the antennas included with the motherboard...
 
The WiFi card won't work because it is a different M.2 key type.
The motherboard supports M.2 Key M only.
The WiFi card is M.2 Key E.
 

The HyperX Cloud II/Alpha/III's fit most of that, but i'm not sure if they come with an alternative cloth ear cup. The Logitech G Pro X 2nd Gen's tick all the boxes. 

The HyperX Cloud II/Alpha/III's fit most of that, but i'm not sure if they come with an alternative cloth ear cup. The Logitech G Pro X 2nd Gen's tick all the boxes. 

Something isn't adding up, but glad its working.

You're going to have to define "good". Compared to something like a Vive Pro 2 or Index? No, not at all, but its considerably cheaper. I think I paid like $200for a refurbished model over two years ago and it feels about worth that. You're getting a $200 experience, not a $900 experience. Its an acceptable entry into VR but if you enjoy it, you'll want something better rather quickly.

I have to ask only because I've taken this for granted before and been burned, how are you verifying the idle state? You aren't doing anything or have you actually verified absolutely nothing is running and (at the very least) Task Manager is reporting 1-3% usage?

I wish I didn't go X670E simply because I could and thought it would be cool. The lighter weight B650 boards seem to boot faster. My completely unverified assumption is the lack of the second chipset saves a few seconds during POST. 
 
X670E Taichi would like a word. 😄
 
 

You're going to have to define "good". Compared to something like a Vive Pro 2 or Index? No, not at all, but its considerably cheaper. I think I paid like $200for a refurbished model over two years ago and it feels about worth that. You're getting a $200 experience, not a $900 experience. Its an acceptable entry into VR but if you enjoy it, you'll want something better rather quickly.

You're going to have to define "good". Compared to something like a Vive Pro 2 or Index? No, not at all, but its considerably cheaper. I think I paid like $200for a refurbished model over two years ago and it feels about worth that. You're getting a $200 experience, not a $900 experience. Its an acceptable entry into VR but if you enjoy it, you'll want something better rather quickly.

I personally run all MSI boards but that's just because I've never had an error with one and I know the BIOS layout pretty well. 
But I will point to what Linus says about top tier boards: They are never worth it. Their low production volume means you pay an even larger premium *and* they are last in line for firmware bug fixes.

I wish I didn't go X670E simply because I could and thought it would be cool. The lighter weight B650 boards seem to boot faster. My completely unverified assumption is the lack of the second chipset saves a few seconds during POST. 
 
X670E Taichi would like a word. 😄